Distance from the edge

[SShepherd]

Is there a guide or rule of thumb to use when deciding  from from the edge to lay out your stitching ? Is there a relation between the thickness of the leather and distance or the number of stitches per/inch, or both ?

[JLSleather]

One popular publication says a general rule is to gauge the distance from the edge equal to the thickness of the pieces being sewn.  That's a good starting point.. and you can fine tune your preference from there.  On my holsters, the outside stitch is "a strong 1/8 inch" from edges, though the holster edge is frequently 1/4" of material.  But I'm talking about that distance from a FINISHED EDGE, not as some who might sew that close, and THEN finish the edge, removing material so the stitch is closer than that.  

Distance between stitches would be governed mostly by awl and/or needle size.  Holes too close together is called a cut.  Again, general "starting point" might be distance between stitches equal to thickness of material.  Just to see -- I have sewn 2 layers of 2 oz (total thickness approx 1/16") at 22 spi.  Using #42 thread and #16 machine needle.  I did not use the resulting assembly - clearly a bad idea, but at least i knew.  It didn't tear upon sewing, but it does with any stress at all.

 

[SShepherd]

41 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

One popular publication says a general rule is to gauge the distance from the edge equal to the thickness of the pieces being sewn.  That's a good starting point.. and you can fine tune your preference from there.  On my holsters, the outside stitch is "a strong 1/8 inch" from edges, though the holster edge is frequently 1/4" of material.  But I'm talking about that distance from a FINISHED EDGE, not as some who might sew that close, and THEN finish the edge, removing material so the stitch is closer than that.  

Distance between stitches would be governed mostly by awl and/or needle size.  Holes too close together is called a cut.  Again, general "starting point" might be distance between stitches equal to thickness of material.  Just to see -- I have sewn 2 layers of 2 oz (total thickness approx 1/16") at 22 spi.  Using #42 thread and #16 machine needle.  I did not use the resulting assembly - clearly a bad idea, but at least i knew.  It didn't tear upon sewing, but it does with any stress at all.

 

I figured 1/8" was the standard and that proportionally things look better in relation to distance and thickness.
The problem I'm working on is a very thick and wide sheath and trying to keep it from being absurdly wide .

[zuludog]

I also make knife sheaths, but I think this is a rule of thumb for most leatherwork -

The distance of the line of stitches from the edge of the piece should be that of the thickness of the leather,  even if there are a few thicknesses of leather

For example, I make sheaths from 3mm veg tan. There is a front, a back, and a welt, making a total thickness of 9mm, but the stitching line is still 3mm. As mentioned, this should be 3mm from the final, finished edge. If you are measuring from a simple, straight cut edge allow for any subsequent dging, sanding, etc. When in doubt remember that it's a lot easier to trim it back than it is to put it back on!

1/8" is 3,175mm so they're near as dammit the same

If you're using very thin leather, say 1mm I would make the distance wider as 1mm doesn't give you much margin for error

Incidentally I no longer use a stitching groover, I just mark the line of the stitching with dividers

[SShepherd]

55 minutes ago, zuludog said:

I also make knife sheaths, but I think this is a rule of thumb for most leatherwork -

The distance of the line of stitches from the edge of the piece should be that of the thickness of the leather,  even if there are a few thicknesses of leather

For example, I make sheaths from 3mm veg tan. There is a front, a back, and a welt, making a total thickness of 9mm, but the stitching line is still 3mm. As mentioned, this should be 3mm from the final, finished edge. If you are measuring from a simple, straight cut edge allow for any subsequent dging, sanding, etc. When in doubt remember that it's a lot easier to trim it back than it is to put it back on!

1/8" is 3,175mm so they're near as dammit the same

If you're using very thin leather, say 1mm I would make the distance wider as 1mm doesn't give you much margin for error

Incidentally I no longer use a stitching groover, I just mark the line of the stitching with dividers

Thanks, that's what I was looking for !
I'm seeing more and more people don't use groovers and use creasers. Looks like I'll have to make one now.

[Matt S]

I too tend to default to 1/8" or 3mm, though I can go as little as 2mm or as much as 1/2" depending on the job. I find that if I go much more than twice the thickness of the leather the edge is more likely to separate. On jobs with a rivet terminating the threads I tend to align the stitch line with the middle of the rivets.

39 minutes ago, SShepherd said:

Thanks, that's what I was looking for !
I'm seeing more and more people don't use groovers and use creasers. Looks like I'll have to make one now.

When I hand stitch I lay out with a normal pair of dividers. Just a scratch is needed for aligning the pricking iron. Creasers tend to harden the leather as you compress it -- great for stiffness and look, not so good for sticking an awl through.

[LeatherLegion]

To me is the distance between the stitching prongs i am using for that particular project,  most of the time...so instead of using the dividers for my stitching line i am using my 2 prong pricking irons

Edited June 29, 2019 by LeatherLegion

[zuludog]

What a clever idea!

My stitching chisels have a gap of 4mm for my sheaths made from 3mm leather so by the time I've finished the edge, that would be about right

[Dwight]

My stitch gouge is set +/- at 1/8 inch, . . . everything I do gets that treatment, . . . have never had a complaint.

My gouge allows my stitches to lay flat, . . . tried the divider trick, . . . just looks shabby in my opinion, . . . stitches lay up on top of the work.

May Got bless,

Dwight

[johnv474]

I don't gouge.  When I want recessed stitches I use the tip of a bone folder or a creaser to burnish a recessed line.  That way, the outermost layer of the leather need not be cut.

For stitch spacing, a rule of thumb could also be to set your stitch spacing to be roughly the thickness of the leather, and likewise that seam to be roughly the same distace from the edge.  That way, each hole has basically the same amount of leather around it in each direction, except toward the center of the panel.  Where there are changes in thickness (foldover of a belt, for example), I would pick one stitch spacing and go from there.  

This is just a rule of thumb. Season to taste.

 

 

[toxo]

I'm a complete newbie and I might have it all wrong but I've been striving to get the stitch line as close to "the work" as possible.If a seam is say 1/4 inch wide and the stitch line is 1/8th then you have 1/8th of the seam relying on a glue line, that's if glue has been used. If not surely there's a potential for stretch

[DJole]

I found that I am much more likely to mess up with the stitching gouge than with the dividers. Just one slip and WOOPS. But the dividers are much more forgiving.