JC2019 Report post Posted August 14, 2019 I am just setting up my Techsew 2600 and I'm in the process of setting everything up. In the instructions it says to turn the wheel counterclockwise by hand. I have a normal sewing machine and this turns very easily. Is this supposed to be very stiff and hard to turn? I guess that's just how an industrial sewing machine is supposed to be. I'm having a little hard time finding more detailed instructions in video form for this machine but I am looking up the 2700 videos to see if I can't learn more about it. If anyone has any good resources let me know. Also wondering what the little lever under the "Caution" yellow sticker is supposed to be used for? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted August 14, 2019 (edited) I would suggest you leave the machine alone until you have time to contact the seller for advice otherwise you may damage it by your actions, it may well be some packaging is still in place or something more serious The lever below the caution is for reverse, you press it when sewing and the feed takes the material backwards whilst still stitching, used at the start and end of stitching Edited August 14, 2019 by chrisash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt S Report post Posted August 14, 2019 Where did you get your Techsew from? The wheel should turn over smoothly if not connected to a motor. If it came fitted on a table with a motor the motor might have a brake, which disengages when you press the pedal a little. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted August 14, 2019 Sometimes the hand wheel is too tight (pressing against the machine body). The hand wheel usually has 2 set screws and one screw on the shaft end. Loosen them all a little bit and move the hand wheel an bit to the right. Then tighten all screws but be careful with the one on the shafts end - this is often the one that s too tight! If your machine has a needle positioner you most likely have to remove it from the shaft first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted August 14, 2019 4 hours ago, JC2019 said: Is this supposed to be very stiff and hard to turn? As a quick hand wheel stiffness test remove the drive belt from the motor pulley and then try turning the hand wheel as per the instructions. It should move fairly easily but it will be stiffer then a domestic sewing machine. Just the physical size difference of machine and internal parts. If the hand wheel is really stiff or you notice something else like crunching you should contact Techsew. It probably would be a good idea to contact Techsew anyway they probably have a video on step by step instructions for setup or would be able to walk you through it and answer questions during the setup. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrmCa Report post Posted August 14, 2019 (edited) A dumb question: did you depress the clutch pedal before turning the wheel? I am am sure you did. Edited August 14, 2019 by DrmCa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted August 14, 2019 With the v-belt disconnected from the motor, and/or the speed reducer, the machine should turn freely with the feet up. With the feet lowered the pressure spring comes into play. The tighter that spring, the harder it will be to hand wheel the machine as the feet alternate up and down. That foot pressure would be adjusted by the large threaded screw on top of the left side of the machine. This is different than the 2700 which has a flat pressure spring running along the back that is adjusted by a thumbscrew in the middle of the machine, to the rear. I should mention that if you bought the machine with a speed reducer, it will be harder to hand wheel than one connected directly to the motor. This because the reducer becomes an increaser when turning it from the machine instead of the motor. And, as mentioned in an earlier reply, your motor may or may not have a cork brake that needs to be relieved with a little toe movement to hand wheel without the motor turning over. Another point of great importance is to oil the machine thoroughly before running it with the motor. This includes opening the face plate cover and dropping oil into the tiny holes in the crankshafts and the sliding part on the take-up lever. Oil to excess and leave a shop cloth under the feet to absorb the drip. Before sewing anything important, wipe oil off the feet and the bottom of the head where the presser foot, alternating foot and needle bars come down. Only use Lily White sewing machine oil! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JC2019 Report post Posted August 14, 2019 I see now. It does have a speed reducer and it is connected to the motor. I will try later today without the motor connected. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JC2019 Report post Posted August 15, 2019 Tried without the belt, it's easier to turn, about what I would expect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted August 15, 2019 9 hours ago, JC2019 said: Tried without the belt, it's easier to turn, about what I would expect. You can determine whether or not the motor has a brake by unplugging the motor and removing the upper belt from the machine, then right hand wheeling the speed reducer's big pulley under the table. Alternate between leaving the floor pedal fully up, then slightly depressing the floor speed pedal with your left hand. If there is a brake it will he very hard to reducer with the motor (off) in the up position of the pedal. Slightly depressing the floor speed pedal would release any brake and allow the pulley to turn with very little effort. The actual range of free motion on servo motors tends to be minuscule, so feather the pedal. If moving the pedal, while its unpowered, doesn't get easier when you toe down, there is probably no brake. Some machines ship with a little plastic bag of spare motor parts, including brushes and an extra cork brake. If there is a cork brake in the spare parts, your motor uses a brake! The brake is removable if you find you don't really need it to stop at your normal sewing speeds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JC2019 Report post Posted August 19, 2019 On 8/15/2019 at 8:50 AM, Wizcrafts said: You can determine whether or not the motor has a brake by unplugging the motor and removing the upper belt from the machine, then right hand wheeling the speed reducer's big pulley under the table. Alternate between leaving the floor pedal fully up, then slightly depressing the floor speed pedal with your left hand. If there is a brake it will he very hard to reducer with the motor (off) in the up position of the pedal. Slightly depressing the floor speed pedal would release any brake and allow the pulley to turn with very little effort. The actual range of free motion on servo motors tends to be minuscule, so feather the pedal. If moving the pedal, while its unpowered, doesn't get easier when you toe down, there is probably no brake. Some machines ship with a little plastic bag of spare motor parts, including brushes and an extra cork brake. If there is a cork brake in the spare parts, your motor uses a brake! The brake is removable if you find you don't really need it to stop at your normal sewing speeds. The hand wheel seems to be easier to turn now... not sure what changed. I am not sure what I should know about the motor break but I'd be curious to learn more. From techsew, their response on it: "motor brake, it’s built into the motor. When you release the pedal the motor should stop on it’s own.". Does that help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted August 19, 2019 7 hours ago, JC2019 said: From techsew, their response on it: "motor brake, it’s built into the motor. When you release the pedal the motor should stop on it’s own.". Does that help? If you didn't get the manual for your servo motor from Techsew you should request a copy. The manual should detail the motors manufacturer / operation / functions / replacement parts etc. I don't think the statement you quoted isn't really helpful in figuring out the motors capabilities. Any working motor should eventually stop when the pedal is released. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted August 19, 2019 9 hours ago, JC2019 said: I am not sure what I should know about the motor break but I'd be curious to learn more. The brake (not break) is a curved piece of cork that's mounted inside the motor and is controlled by the activating lever. When the lever is all the way up, the brake sits hard against the armature. As you lower the lever, the brake moves away, just before the motor starts powering up. The range of free motion is limited. After that point is passed, the motor is power driven until you remove your foot from the pedal. Then the brake stops the motion quickly. The brake assembly is secured by two screws and is removable if it bothers you, or you sew so slowly that it doesn't matter. It can also be filed or ground down to get more slack. If you care to share a photo of the motor we can probably help with its operational details. Use the lowest resolution your camera allows for the smallest file size. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites