Awl makers

[paloma]

Yes, I also think, that said, with a bit of experience, a good stone, I think you could manage to give it back its original shape, but I repeat, a lot of patience and regularity in the gesture.

[Matt S]

20 hours ago, Spyros said:

Thanks Matt.  Yeah handles are not an issue, I'm a woodworker, I know it's a matter of seconds to bring it to the exact shape anyone might want, and even the most exotic wood for something this small is probably gonna set you back $5 once you have your supply chain sorted (ie you don't buy from etsy/ebay)

But the blade sounds like a royal PITB.  Again not so much making it, from what you're telling me it's probably just $0.10 worth of 01 tool steel, shaped while it's soft, then hardened and tempered, and it's so small you can probably do the heat treatment in your kitchen with a propane torch and half a glass of vegetable oil.   But sharpening it, yeahh... nah.  Just too easy to grind through the diamond shape edges and end up with a very pretty dart LOL

As you say the material and 90% of the work isn't the issue, so much as the finishing which has to be done by hand. Part of the issue is that awl blades are quite flexible so have to be backed up with something like a finger -- fine on a bench stone, not so ideal on a belt or wheel! Even polishing by machine can be very easy to mess up, as most polishing wheels tend to round over the edge when you put it across the blade. I have a drawer full of "pretty darts" to demonstrate that! 

I've recently acquired a Tormek machine, maybe I'll try that on a raw awl somewhen. Certainly works well on punches and knives.

You can certainly stitch with a less-than-ideal awl, especially if you use a stitching chisel (Which punches through the leather) rather than a pricking iron (which tends to not pierce all the way through). However it makes things a LOT faster/easier/neater/less frustrating.

[Spyros]

40 minutes ago, Matt S said:

As you say the material and 90% of the work isn't the issue, so much as the finishing which has to be done by hand. Part of the issue is that awl blades are quite flexible so have to be backed up with something like a finger -- fine on a bench stone, not so ideal on a belt or wheel! Even polishing by machine can be very easy to mess up, as most polishing wheels tend to round over the edge when you put it across the blade. I have a drawer full of "pretty darts" to demonstrate that! 

I've recently acquired a Tormek machine, maybe I'll try that on a raw awl somewhen. Certainly works well on punches and knives.

You can certainly stitch with a less-than-ideal awl, especially if you use a stitching chisel (Which punches through the leather) rather than a pricking iron (which tends to not pierce all the way through). However it makes things a LOT faster/easier/neater/less frustrating.

Ooooh a Tormek, nice!  I was about to pull the trigger on one and the only reason I haven't yet is those cheap knock offs that came out recently and people say they're decent.   I'm waiting for my friend to show me his to see if it does the trick for me, it could save me $500.  They say the main problem with the cheap ones is the axle, it gets corroded quickly but parts are also cheap to replace compared to Tormek, and it still has the same bar and you can mount original Tormek jigs and stones.  Some guy I know who sharpens professionally added a cheap one next to his Tormek for a different grit stone.  We'll see.  I'd love a Tormek but I also need the budget to build up my leather tools.  

Last night I went ahead and ordered a KS stitching chisel set, 2 and 10 prong.  It was pricey but I think working without a stitching awl is probably more suited to my non existent skills LOL

Edited June 6, 2020 by Spyros

[Spyros]

double post, sorry

Edited June 6, 2020 by Spyros

[Tugadude]

I read through this thread and saw a lot of good points.  One thing that can get lost in the shuffle is that the awl blade need only be sharp at the tip.  The rest of the length is polished smooth.  You want to pierce the leather then let the width of the blade stretch or expand the slit temporarily.  If it is sharpened too far down the length of the metal then it slices too big of a hole.  

The idea is to pierce, then expand the slit so the needle and thread can go through easily.  Afterwards, the leather naturally begins to contract and upon finishing the stitching, a few taps with a smooth hammer helps close up the holes further and flatten the thread, further filling the holes.

Having too big of a hole is a detriment both aesthetically and functionally.  It can lead to weakening of the leather and is undesirable.

 

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

Absolutely what Tugadude said!!

[chuck123wapati]

I agree with Tugadude also and adding my two cents to the conversation get your self a good set of hands free magnifying glasses so you don't jack up your new awl when sharpening it. 

[paloma]

2 hours ago, Tugadude said:

I read through this thread and saw a lot of good points.  One thing that can get lost in the shuffle is that the awl blade need only be sharp at the tip.  The rest of the length is polished smooth.  You want to pierce the leather then let the width of the blade stretch or expand the slit temporarily.  If it is sharpened too far down the length of the metal then it slices too big of a hole.  

The idea is to pierce, then expand the slit so the needle and thread can go through easily.  Afterwards, the leather naturally begins to contract and upon finishing the stitching, a few taps with a smooth hammer helps close up the holes further and flatten the thread, further filling the holes.

Having too big of a hole is a detriment both aesthetically and functionally.  It can lead to weakening of the leather and is undesirable.

 

really true!

[Retswerb]

On 6/5/2020 at 7:56 AM, Matt S said:

I also tend to put a few turns of amalgamating tape round the ferrule, which helps pull a reluctant needle without putting the awl down.

Had to look this one up (I know it as fusion tape) but that’s a good idea, I’ll have to try it.

[Matt S]

2 hours ago, Retswerb said:

Had to look this one up (I know it as fusion tape) but that’s a good idea, I’ll have to try it.

We truly are two nations divided by a common language! 

I'm sure you guys use the same stuff -- it's a silicone rubber tape that comes in rolls with a peel off layer between layers. Not sticky, just grabby, but magically it sticks and fuses to itself when you wrap something. Used in repairs a lot. You could get a similar effect with a bit of bicycle inner tube or if you make a few turns with some rubber bands but I'm sure you get the idea -- clamp the needle against the grippy stuff with your thumb and give it a tug.