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  • Members
Posted

Trying another Loop Holster heres were I'm at. Whats next?  I know I need to bevel edges, sand edges, kote edges and assemble  the holster then Mold it.

BUT in what order would I do all this. Also should I wet the holster to assemble it or try to do it dry?

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  • Members
Posted

Punched stitch holes and still it looks agh - sorry, but there's a point where corrective action's needed. About the only way that might work is braid-lacing the edges. Or use the laser to mark the line for stitching punches. Dampening the leather before sewing up's entirely up to you. It might help the stitching embed, but I'd use an edge groover first, to create a ditch for the stitching to lie in. It'll protect the thread, because I'd presume the holster will be used in the field in some shape or form.

  • CFM
Posted

The first thing I saw was the huge holes for the stitching. Most everything else is fine, but that just makes it look like a Tandy kit. An awl and stitch marker will improve your work immensely. I would recommend 6 to the inch, but that is just my choice.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

  • Members
Posted

Oh did I make a mistake and post in critique my work? Thought I posted in How do I do that and asked specific questions on what to do next and in what order. Let me repost in the right area:oops:

  • Contributing Member
Posted
46 minutes ago, Bert03241 said:

what to do next

I think you need to mold it before sewing it together.

Like you, I use a laser to cut leather, but have never considered making a molded holster because, from what I understand, you are supposed to sew the seams together after you have form fitted the leather around the gun. When you sew the holster together before molding the leather, you won't be able to achieve the snug fit you're looking for.

So, wet it, mold it and let it dry; then assemble, trim, bevel, sand and coat the edges.

Hope that helps.

  • CFM
Posted

No, you must stitch it together first. Then a QUICK dunk in and out of water. Let it sit for a few minutes while you wrap the pistol in saran wrap. Put it in the holster and begin forming with your fingers. Do not rub with any tool or you will get burnished areas. If you try to form it before stitching you will never get together as it will be stretched out of shape. I am going to try doing it in a Seal-A-Meal with my next one.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

  • CFM
Posted
11 hours ago, Bert03241 said:

Oh did I make a mistake and post in critique my work? Thought I posted in How do I do that and asked specific questions on what to do next and in what order. Let me repost in the right area:oops:

you can always search the forum yourself you will find your answer many times over. people just trying to help you friend.

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

  • Members
Posted
19 hours ago, Bert03241 said:

Oh did I make a mistake and post in critique my work? Thought I posted in How do I do that and asked specific questions on what to do next and in what order. Let me repost in the right area:oops:

You've not seen me being critical, have you? I was once a Sergeant-Major. I'm not Mary Poppins, and gun hardware needs to stand up to the job. Be thankful...what I addressed is an issue. There's no way to sugar-coat it. In years to come you'll see.

  • Members
Posted
15 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

No, you must stitch it together first. Then a QUICK dunk in and out of water. Let it sit for a few minutes while you wrap the pistol in saran wrap. Put it in the holster and begin forming with your fingers. Do not rub with any tool or you will get burnished areas. If you try to form it before stitching you will never get together as it will be stretched out of shape. I am going to try doing it in a Seal-A-Meal with my next one.

That is one opinion . . . not mine . . . and I specialize in CCW holsters that ARE form fitted before sewing.

My holsters are form fitted in a vacuum forming machine . . . rubbed with any tool I need to get the proper forming I want . . . and with one exception . . . have not had one holster returned.  The one holster returned was because of an error made in the design . . . not in the execution of the design.

After form fitting and drying overnight . . . they are then contact cemented together . . . stitched together. . . . edges leveled . . . edges beveled . . . dyed . . . edges burnished . . . and final finish.

Has worked for me for 20 years.

May God bless,

Dwight 

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • Members
Posted

I don't have a vacuum machine, and I'm at a total loss as to how you could possibly mold the holster before sewing and then fold it over and get it thru the loops. Please tell me how this is done?

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

That is one opinion . . . not mine . . . and I specialize in CCW holsters that ARE form fitted before sewing.

My holsters are form fitted in a vacuum forming machine . . . rubbed with any tool I need to get the proper forming I want . . . and with one exception . . . have not had one holster returned.  The one holster returned was because of an error made in the design . . . not in the execution of the design.

After form fitting and drying overnight . . . they are then contact cemented together . . . stitched together. . . . edges leveled . . . edges beveled . . . dyed . . . edges burnished . . . and final finish.

Has worked for me for 20 years.

May God bless,

Dwight 

tried to look at your website got a 404 error. did you take it down?

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