Tying thin thread to needles

[toxo]

Spot on zulu.

[fredk]

verily, interesting. I must try this way on my next project

[tsunkasapa]

1 hour ago, mike02130 said:

What is this long tail method?  Thanks.

I use about 4-5 inches of free tail. I've never pulled the thread out of a needle.

Edited December 6, 2021 by tsunkasapa

[zuludog]

OK, another couple of comments --

By not locking the needle & thread you rely on the fact that waxed thread creates enough friction that the needle will not slide off the end of the thread if you let go of the needle. This means you must use needles with a small eye for the thread

As you use up the thread in the saddle stitch, by shortening the tail you are moving the fold over along the thread, thus you don't get a weak or worn spot on the fold over at the eye 

Edited December 6, 2021 by zuludog

[mike02130]

Oh okay, I thought this was some trick method to not pull a whole length of thread through the holes as you sew.  But it has to do with the the thread around the eye of the needle from wearing out or the knot failing, right?  Duh, I understand.  

I don't usually have any issue with the thread in the eye of the needle.  I use poly thread less than .5mm in diameter.  When threading the needle I pierce the thread 3 times and then go through the eye of the needle and then pull it tight like in Tugadudes picture.  Occasionally the thread will come loose and if I catch it in time, I can just pull and tighten it up.

After rereading everything, now I understand what Chrisash said about less pulling.  But if I had a long tail, would that prevent me from casting?  I'll experiment tomorrow.  Thanks everyone for your help.  I'm feeling kinda dumb, now.

Edited December 6, 2021 by mike02130
add stuff

[zuludog]

MIKE02130 ---I adjust the lengths of the tail and the working length to have a long tail and the length of the working or active thread about 3" longer than that. This gives me enough free working thread to pull the stitches down neatly, and to cast the stitch. It's easy enough to slide the needle along and adjust the working thread to a length that suits you.

Or after pulling the thread through the stitching hole you can simply let go of the tail & needle, which will give you the whole of the working length to cast & finish that stitch; but as i said, this relies on the thread being waxy & sticky enough that the needle will not slip off by itself, and I've never had a problem with that.

Before I did leather work I repaired tents & rucsacs, plus general sewing like fixing buttons & minor tears, and still do. I never locked on the needle & thread for that, and I wondered why you have to do it for leatherwork?

Edited December 6, 2021 by zuludog

[chrisash]

the above is correct, As i pull the needle through as soon as possible i hold the end of the needle clasping both the needle as well as the thread, but normally there is enough friction on the long tail to stop and pull through

[tsunkasapa]

[jcuk]

You can also get smaller needles they are called JJ saddlers needles but unlike harness needles (blunt point) they are sharp should not be a problem if you are using stitching chisels or if you are using an awl,  just pre-prick your stitch marks if you are adept with a awl still be carful (ouch) .

https://www.jjneedles.com/images/needles-guide/Hand_Sewing_Needle_Size_Guide_Type_Length.pdf scroll down to saddlers and harness needles to compare sizes.

https://www.abbeyengland.com/john-james-saddler-14-s-sewing-needle-fn003 don't if you can get them where you are

Hope this helps

JCUK