Contributing Member fredk Posted December 24, 2021 Contributing Member Report Posted December 24, 2021 (edited) 7 minutes ago, ScottEnglish said: fredk: Thanks for answering my question about your medieval shoes. A couple of things that really surprised me when I first got into making 'medieval' shoes & boots 1. not much has changed in 1000 years. Get a book with images of medieval & Viking shoes then get down to the shoe shops in your High street. You'll see many of the same styles in the shops 2. They are really comfortable A man and wife in my 'medieval' circle made their own shoes and wore them everyday. PS. if you can, sell that piece of yours on ebay. You'll get a top £ price for it on there Edited December 24, 2021 by fredk Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members ScottEnglish Posted December 24, 2021 Author Members Report Posted December 24, 2021 fredk: I'll research medieval shoes online. eBay. That's a good idea. Maybe I can divide the hide into sides and sell them separately. Quote
Members jrny4wrd Posted April 20, 2022 Members Report Posted April 20, 2022 On 12/23/2021 at 11:17 AM, ScottEnglish said: fredk: Thick vegetable-tanned leather for unlined boots? I know a few people on these forums tried to dissuade me from using vegetable-tanned leather for footwear over a year ago. I still went ahead anyhow and made some shoes using vegetable-tanned leather. I don't intend doing so again unless you know something I don't. Which is probable. Scott Veg tan is used on a lot of footwear. Even Nike shoes used to use is. Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 20, 2022 Members Report Posted April 20, 2022 On 12/23/2021 at 10:50 AM, ScottEnglish said: Dwight: Are you referring to power tools or hand planes? I want to keep the grain side intact so I can't see how your idea will work. I am a bit dim though! Scott Sorry, Scott . . . I didn't see this until today . . . may be late . . . but something maybe for the future. Use latex glue on the hair side . . . glue the leather to a very flat board and make sure you do a really good glue job. Set the powered electric jointer so it does not take off more than 1/64 of an inch or .40 mm . . . run it slowly thru the jointer . . . and it should take off one ounce at a time. Now I've never actually done this myself . . . but having worked with power tools for 65 years or so . . . I can usually figure out these things. Take a piece of scrap and try it first to see how well it works. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Tequila Posted April 20, 2022 Members Report Posted April 20, 2022 @ScottEnglish I’m not sure if these guys https://www.buckleguy.com/ ship international but they’ve got a good selection of leather and weights. Quote
Members DavidMillsSaddlery Posted July 13, 2022 Members Report Posted July 13, 2022 On 12/23/2021 at 6:51 AM, fredk said: Two options I'd go with; 1. if its not too much difference, live with it 2. buy another piece of the correct thickness. That would work out cheaper. You'll pay almost as much to get it split as it would to buy a new piece This… the “splitters” mentioned do not work with chrome tan… a band bland splitter will have hell even… Quote
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