Compact and possibly portable sewing machine for watch straps

[suhajko]

Hey guys. I researched a lot but Im still struggling to find the right thing for me.

First let me tell you a little about what I do. For 11 years now I am making bespoke watch straps, all hand made including stitching. I am more into delicate straps with thickness between 1,5mm to 2,5mm tops. I use mainly calf, goat, pigskin but also shell cordovan. The straps are usually lined with calf and consist of 2-3 layers of leather. 
As I wrote, I do hand stitching and I like it. But I want to get into machine stitching too…

From what I was reading here on the forum, a compound machine would be good for my purposes. But are there any smaller and lighter compound machines out there? I dont really have too much space, and I really dont need a machine for heavy work. Im not interested to make other products at the moment so a heavy industrial machine seems a bit overkill… In addition, the machine would be stitching maybe 10-20 straps per week so I guess this really is not something that would require a machine meant for mass production.

I was also wondering, would a needle feed machine work OK for watch straps too? The leathers I work with are quite delicate sometimes and Im pretty sure that the feed dog claws of a standard machine would leave very nasty marks on the straps, and a walking foot might not be ideal as it tends to leave some pressure marks too.

The machine should be probably equipped with a motor that can go really slow to have control and I will also need a pressure foot that will allow me to use a edge guide…

I am located in Europe, so I would like to buy the machine in Europe preferably…

I will welcome any comments and useful information. 
thanks!

[RockyAussie]

It would help I think if you could post a few pictures of the watch straps you are making. What range of thicknesses do you want to use in thread? How much and how sharp a profile at the edge do you like. Something with a thick and sharp profile can be a bit harder to do and if the leather is soft then you can get miss stitching unless you can get a very good foot shape. A roller foot can work alright sometimes but sometimes not depending on the shape, the leather how easily it marks, the needles used etc etc. I have a Pfaff 331 (not walking foot) that works very well for me but they have not made any machines like it for many years now so just about rarer than rocking horse poo. If you would like to see one of these have a look at this watch strap post I made awhile ago.

Most likely being in Europe I would have a look for an Adler 69 which is walking foot cylinder machine. A Techsew 2600 would be probably a good choice as well if they are available there. They come with a proper up and down feed dog movement and have a large bobbin and can take a thick thread 138 (20 metric thread if needed.

[suhajko]

Here are a few pictures. I use mainly 2,25 to 3mm stitch spacing. The thickness of the edges is very individual and does depend on what the customer wants and what materials are used…

 

Edited January 29, 2022 by suhajko

[chrisash]

There is the Sailrite model of walking foot machine that might fit the bill, it comes in various models some setup for leather work with speed reducers etc

https://www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Portable-Heavy-Duty-Sewing-Machines/Ultrafeed-LSZ-1-Sewing-Machine

[suhajko]

I dont think I will be able to find the sailrite machine in europe

[RockyAussie]

2 hours ago, suhajko said:

Here are a few pictures. I use mainly 2,25 to 3mm stitch spacing. The thickness of the edges is very individual and does depend on what the customer wants and what materials are used…

 

A watch band with the low profile would be no problems with the machines I mentioned or even ones with a medium profile like this one is alright as well -

Note that I leave the threads long to do the finishing off by hand.

Ones with a heavy varying height profile like this one I still do by hand though - ( Over 5mm thick rubber filler from memory)

[suhajko]

Yeah, straps with padding wouldn’t come anywhere near the sewing machine. I want to do more straps with delicate stitching like attached here. These are not my straps, they are done by a very nice Italian chap…

[kgg]

3 hours ago, chrisash said:

There is the Sailrite model of walking foot machine that might fit the bill, it comes in various models some setup for leather work with speed reducers etc

I think the portable walking foot machines like the Sailrite and others, as they have pretty rough feet, would probably leave marks. Since you are in Europe I think finding a Alder or Juki would be easier in the Brand names or one of their clones.

3 hours ago, suhajko said:

I dont think I will be able to find the sailrite machine in europe

What country are you in as someone maybe able to direct you towards something available in your area?

kgg

[MtlBiker]

3 hours ago, chrisash said:

There is the Sailrite model of walking foot machine that might fit the bill, it comes in various models some setup for leather work with speed reducers etc

https://www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Portable-Heavy-Duty-Sewing-Machines/Ultrafeed-LSZ-1-Sewing-Machine

I'm not sure the LSZ-1 is the right machine in this case.  (I have one, and love it, but...)

There is no smooth presser foot available for it and the standard foot is very aggressive.  I bought the optional smoother foot, but it's still not flat.  And the machine is walking foot but has no needle feed.  The requirement of a portable machine will make finding the right one quite difficult I think.

Here's what the feet look like:  The one on the left is the standard/included sawtooth foot and on the right is the optional knurled foot.  If I have leather that marks easily I use either my RB206-5 or Techsew 2750 with a smooth bottom presser foot.

@suhajko - The watch strap you showed is very nice!  Mind saying what thickness of leather you used and how many layers?  I've never tried (yet) to make a watch strap but I'd like to.

 

[Scoutmom103]

These are not industrial sewing machines and can't handle heavy leather.     You might want to read about Singer 201-1 (Treadle Operated), 201-3 (BR external motor with belt drive) or 201-4 (hand cranked), or the K versions made in the UK between 1935-1962. 201-k, 201K3, 201K4, 201K21,23&24. .  Germany also made a verson from 1935-1944? 201D (cast iron model as 201K3 etc.)       There are forums regarding the Singer 201s and I think there may be a Facebook group of users.   I think all of these models could use a servo motor in place of its current motor if needed.    Here is a link to Harry Rodgers on youtube discussing it.  Harry is a Leatherworker, if you haven't heard of him.    Best Budget Leather Sewing Machine? - Bing video.

Any Singer 201 with -2 (I believe) has a potted motor which is attached directly to the machine and doesn't use an external belt.  Most require checking out the wiring in the motor.

 

Edited January 29, 2022 by Scoutmom103
Forgot to add about 201-2