Screwed up... Can I fix it?

[MtlBiker]

I screwed up on a piece I was working on... It's the outer part of a wallet, with leather on the outside and interfaced cotton on the inside.  I'd stitched it together right sides together and turned it right side out through an opening I'd left in the middle of the lining (which will be hidden when I add the interior card slots and zippered pocket.  I then top-stitched it and when I was done I saw that the stitches in one part were loose (don't know how else to describe it) and the upper thread was still working but was frayed above the needle.  It was a brand new leather needle #20 (135x16) with v92 thread.  The needle was correctly installed.  I don't know what caused this problem but I'm going to install another new needle before trying again.

Anyway, I'm wondering what you think about the possibility of fixing this.  Or do I have to trash it and start over?  I think it's next to impossible that I could match the same needle holes if I restitch.  If I do try to restitch that top stitch, should I remove the first stitching first or leave it in place, stitching on top of it?

[PastorBob]

I would definitely pull the old thread and try lining up the stitches in the prepunched holes.  Worst case, start over (maybe cut off the sewn portions and make it a tad bit smaller). Best case, it all lines up in the existing holes.

[fredk]

I say, cut the thread back by about 2 inches each side of the bad part and sew again. Only this time go manual. Watch carefully and try to get the needle into the same holes. Over lap the new onto the old by about 1 inch

[kgg]

1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

It was a brand new leather needle #20 (135x16) with v92 thread. 

I would change the needle to a #22 as having a to small a needle will cause thread shreds, frays, or breaks at the needle.

With what appears to be skipped stitches I would check for burrs along the top thread path (thread guides, tension discs, etc).

I would re cut the piece as the resewing or trying to correct the problems areas will I think be noticeable.

kgg

[HaloJones]

If it’s only a small area can you hand stitch using the existing holes?

[RockyAussie]

15 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I think it's next to impossible that I could match the same needle holes if I restitch

What you believe will be true if you think that, but if it helps..... If you were working for me and could not do it then you would no longer be working for me.

Practice doing on some scrap first and you will find it is not that hard. You have an open toe foot and a good directional light. These happen out of the blue and learning how to deal with it is what you need to work out. Thankfully its not Croc or some other expensive skin because on them I remove all the threads and start again just so you cant see anywhere the thread is doubled up and out of place. You will find that the needle does not have to hit every hole perfectly to still look alright and a blunt needle can be better as well as they sort of slide there way into the hole a bit. If I have to do a extra large piece I will remove the needle and polish it blunt especially if the back is fabric as you have in this case. Last bit is to check that your thread return check spring is adjusted correctly. If it allows too much looseness on top, the needle can spear it or even end up on the wrong side as it goes in and you will get this problem happen regularly.

[MtlBiker]

1 hour ago, HaloJones said:

If it’s only a small area can you hand stitch using the existing holes?

Only problem with that suggestion is that I've never hand-stitched anything!  I'm still very much a beginner.

[MtlBiker]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

What you believe will be true if you think that, but if it helps..... If you were working for me and could not do it then you would no longer be working for me.

Practice doing on some scrap first and you will find it is not that hard. You have an open toe foot and a good directional light. These happen out of the blue and learning how to deal with it is what you need to work out. Thankfully its not Croc or some other expensive skin because on them I remove all the threads and start again just so you cant see anywhere the thread is doubled up and out of place. You will find that the needle does not have to hit every hole perfectly to still look alright and a blunt needle can be better as well as they sort of slide there way into the hole a bit. If I have to do a extra large piece I will remove the needle and polish it blunt especially if the back is fabric as you have in this case. Last bit is to check that your thread return check spring is adjusted correctly. If it allows too much looseness on top, the needle can spear it or even end up on the wrong side as it goes in and you will get this problem happen regularly.

I'm so much of a beginner with sewing that you'd never hire me anyway!  So you CAN'T fire me! 

Most of that top stitch looks good, and I've removed the part that is wonky.  I will try my best to restitch that area but first I need to figure out why the top thread frayed in the first place.  It wasn't consistent... the first part of the top stitch was fine, as was the last part.  Only a small section in the middle had a problem.

Thank you for your advice.

 

[TomE]

Time to buy "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" and learn a new skill.  This task is similar to repairing tack - fixing broken stitches by hand.

[Dwight]

1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

Only problem with that suggestion is that I've never hand-stitched anything!  I'm still very much a beginner.

We were all beginners at one time . . . 

When I have a similar problem . . . (all of us do at one time or another) . . . I get out my hand sewing needles . . . pick the right one . . . pull out the bad thread . . . and go to town with my needle and thread.

The way I do it is not saddle stitching . . . but will have a similar effect.

Put a good figure eight knot in the thread . . . leaving a 2 or 3 inch tail on it.  Sneak up between the pieces . . . somewhere in the middle of the bad sewing  . . . start up or down . . . doesn't matter. 

Loop stitch it one direction until you get to the good sttches . . . double up on a couple of those stitches . . . then start back the other way . . . sewing down where you came up . . . and sewing up where you sewed down earlier . . . 

AND . . . as you loop stitch . . . DO NOT PULL IT TIGHT.  Leave an inch or so in each loop . . . hanging out of the leather on each side of the piece.  You'll fix this later . . .  trust me.

Continue the loop stitching all the way past where you started . . . so that you go into the good stitches . . . again 2 or 3 stitches . . . just to double them up and anchor them . . .  and again . . . sewing back to your start place . . . going up where you sewed down coming out . . . and going down where you sewed up . . . 

When you get back to your start place . . . you then grab that 2 or 3 inch tail of the beginning stitch . . . and with the other hand . . . begin pulling the stitches tight . . .  going the direction you first started sewing . . . continue pulling them tight  . . .  one at a time . . . until you finally have it all sewn . . . stitches tightened . . . and you have the tail in one hand and the thread in the other hand.  

Tie them into a good tight  . . . square knot . . . look it up if you don't know how to do it.  

Then comes a kinda tricky part.  Find two needles . . . longest ones you have . . . and cut those two threads hanging out so that they are about 2/3 as long as the needles.  

Thread the needles with those hanging out threads . . .  and with a pair of pliers . . .  push the back end of the needles up between the layers until they are pulled free of the thread.

Pull out your needles . . . your job is done.

Have fun . . . take it slow . . . get a pair of cheater reading glasses to help make sure you are hitting the holes right as you do not make new holes . . . use the old ones . . . get a couple of doughnuts . . . and a cup of coffee . . . reward yourself at each end of the stitching . . . and when you are done . . .  have a piece of apple pie.

May God bless,

Dwight

PS:  Apple pie rewards always help make the work good . . . whether it was or not . . . lol