IF/WHEN To Apply Neatsfoot Oil

[WiscoSam]

I have been working on a tooled belt the last few days and I’m trying to figure out at which point to apply Neatsfoot oil. I’ve already dyed the belt after tooling it, and I’ll also be putting a decorative stitch on the belt as well. So at which point should I apply Neatsfoot oil? Should I apply after dyeing (I used Eco flo antique gel) but before stitching? Or should I apply the oil after dyeing and after stitching? Should I have applied the oil before dying but after tooling? Should I not apply it at all on a belt? Thanks 

 

 

 

[Spyros]

NO makes the leather a couple of shades darker and it penetrates really well so it's great for moisturising dry leather.  If you don't want to achieve either of those two things, don't apply NO 

[chrisash]

Just add a good conditioner to the leather before any sealer, only use NFO sparingly if the leather is really really dry before you do anything to the leather i.s. before you start and leave for 48 hours to soak in

[Dwight]

For a while . . . I was having trouble with some shades of lighter browns not being uniform across the project . . . 

Got the tip to apply a very light coat of neatsfoot oil to the project on the hair side only . . . with the emphasis on VERY LIGHT.

It cured the dying problem . . . 100%.

That is what I do now . . . stamping comes first . . . molding comes first . . . shaping comes first . . . stitching comes first . . . but as soon as the project is now a true belt or a true holster etc . . . it gets the oil treatment.  

Let it sit for at least 24 hours . . . then I dip dye the project . . . and am happy with the results I get.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JLSleather]

8 hours ago, WiscoSam said:

Should I apply after dyeing but before stitching?

This is what I do - always.  If you forgot, and stitched it already, adding oil later is not a problem, but I would keep it off the thread (not hard as it sounds).  Light or dark, my tooled belts don't get out without being oiled. 

If the oil is darkening your leather, I assume you're applying it too heavy, using too much.  But it may discolor thread, depending on the thread used.

By way of disclaimer, I've never used the dye you're referring to, so I have no idea what that stuff does.  I use Fiebing's spirit dyes most all the time, an infrequently Angelus dyes.

To be clear, my tooled belts are 

• tooled,
• dyed,
• oiled,
• treated with whatever "top coat" used (I use tan-kote, resolene, saddle-lac, and one other... though not together - pick one per project)
• lined (including inlays if used), and
• sewn together

T

 

Edited February 18, 2022 by JLSleather

[JayEhl]

I was kind of curious, too.  I've never used NFO, just plain olive oil (I don't think they're the exact same thing but.... ) and was never really sure of where in the steps to do this. I generally apply my oil after I do any tooling but before dying.  It seems to work for me.  I tried once oiling after dying/painting but I think I was too impatient and didn't wait long enough for everything to cure and smeared some when I applied the oil.   I'll have to try again and be more patient.  That's one of the things this craft teaches you, is patience... now if I would only listen! 

That said, I think it's interesting where we have two solid contributing forum members sharing their experiences and best practices and they have their own steps in how they produce their superior products;  each is a little different but both have great results.    

Bottom line, with a little experimentation you will also create your own steps and best practices that work best for you.   

[tsunkasapa]

I tool, dye (dye and antique are NOT the same thing), apply a light coat of oil, then on to resist (if antiquing) or final finish. That's for any project. Depending on your choice of finish, that may be the only time you CAN oil it. Resolene and other plastic finishes won't let the oil penetrate.

[JLSleather]

49 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

I tool, dye (dye and antique are NOT the same thing), apply a light coat of oil, then on to resist (if antiquing) or final finish. That's for any project. Depending on your choice of finish, that may be the only time you CAN oil it. Resolene and other plastic finishes won't let the oil penetrate.

This is TRUE.. if you're using resist/antique, do the oil BEFORE that.  I didn't include it because i don't use antique but maybe once every other year when somebody SPECIFICALLY WANTS it and writes a big check

 

[Spyros]

10 hours ago, Dwight said:

For a while . . . I was having trouble with some shades of lighter browns not being uniform across the project . . . 

Got the tip to apply a very light coat of neatsfoot oil to the project on the hair side only . . . with the emphasis on VERY LIGHT.

It cured the dying problem . . . 100%.

I just mix NFO directly into the dye, I have 3 little jars with 3 fiebings colours (show brown, saddle tan and black) mixed with NFO permanently on my shelf, and I apply the dye/NFO mix from the skin side. 

The proper way of doing it is the way you described, my way is the quick and dirty, the downside being that my mix will often penetrate the leather throughout and the dye will show on the flesh side (which I usually don't mind and that's why I do it like that)

Edited February 18, 2022 by Spyros