bruce johnson

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About bruce johnson

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    Saddlery & Tack Moderator
  • Birthday 06/15/1960

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    Oakdale, CA

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  1. If it is something I plan to use or sell to use - I'd save the mark and clean up the rest. If it is going into my corner of cool S**T Tools, then I mostly leave patina but remove rust. Even the cool tools get used for their intended purpose at least once before they go on the wall..I put enough of an edge on the knives to cut something for fun. The draw gauges get to cut a strap or two. I have an old willow leaf blade I keep around just for that purpose. I'd like to think those old boys who made these old gems and those that used them to make a living before me would appreciate me using them "one more time" before they get hung up. Besides, when you cut some leather with a 150-175 year old tool, you feel history in your hand.
  2. Ken, I've had a few. I did get one with instructions and it was made by JHE Enterprises or something like that in UT. I think Timberline used to carry them too. They do show up every now and again, but I don't think they've been made for a while. And in one of those "you shoulda been here yesterday" deals - one sold on Ebay yesterday. - Bruce
  3. I just got in an unused Hansen as well. The blade will need a lot of sharpening for sure. I expect yours is the same.
  4. Thank you! I have had the 2x36 for a few years. It gets used daily and a great tool. There are times where a 4" wide would be good to have. I will check with the US supplier. I like the shroud and dust collector you have on yours - I'd still be masking up but shop cleanup would be a lot simpler. Several good ideas in your post and I sure want to thank you! - Bruce
  5. Is that a MultiTool attachment that you are using for the sanding? If so, where did you get the wider width model at? Thanks! - Bruce
  6. Hi Bruce,

    I am looking for a Dixon edger #2 for belts and small cases. Do you have one?

    Jim McLaughlin

  7. One thing I am seeing in your pictures is the blade is sitting a little back. On the black yoke that holds the feed roller the outside has a "stop" to slide the blade up against. On yours I can see a gap of maybe 1/16" between the blade edge and stop. What I do is slide by blade up to touching the stop. adjust my back screw to hold it there. Then I back off that screw maybe 1/4 turn so the blade edge is very close but not binding against the stop.The closer to the stop the blade edge is then the better they will feed directly into the blade. Sometimes you may have a blade that the bevel is uneven and not centered in the thickness of the blade. the thinner leather wants to ride over or under the blade. Try flipping the blade and see if that makes a difference.
  8. I got my big one from Grizzly a few years ago. They had/have a freight agreement with FedEx and it was surprisingly cheap to ship. I just picked a smaller one up at WoodCraft last week for a sharpening surface in the tool shop. It is a pretty good bang for the buck I thought.
  9. Sure should be able to, the adjustment screw on the back goes from the frame up through the yoke that holds the bottom feedroller. Loosen that adjustment to raise the bottom roller so it will engage the thinner leather. You might need to take a turn or so on the spring tensioning screw to add a but more pressure, might not need to depending on how tight the spring is adjusted now.
  10. This brief clip shows the grip I use on a draw gauge. Middle finger on the trigger, index finger pointing down the right side and pushing back against the front. This counteracts any torque from blade drag and gives me a solid grip. My thumb naturally falls into place to hold the leather down. -
  11. I haven't seen one like that, any patent or marking info on it? I have attached pictures of one of mine. It is a Doering patent and sold by Randall at one point.
  12. Some people think it was a quality grade - umm, no. In the old catalogs it was a size mark for the #70 round knives. I work from a 1897 copy mostly. The "small" was 5", the "usual" was 6", "X" was 6-1/2", "XX" was 6-3/4", The "XXX" was 7". They also list extra large knives to order.They do list a 2nd quality knife but only in 6".
  13. I am thinking Robert Jolley - Montana
  14. Bob, IN a word "yes". The crank splitters have a feedwheel and the leverage of the handle and gearing to allow more force than a simple pull by hand. The common crank splitters were designed for the shoe repair trade and are 6" wide (shoe soles). The downsides of the cranksplitters - more expensive, they push the leather into the blade instead of pulling so the leather needs some body or it will wad up against the blade and split unevenly, .
  15. I've had a bunch of 10" pull through splitters and the occasional 12". Problem is that most people can pull about 3" width pretty easily and it gets exponentially harder once you go wider than that. The extra blade width just gives you more blade to use before you need to work the edge up again. I've probably got a brother Randall to the 18" Big Sioux has in my shop right now. It is here to get a new blade put on and adjusted. It literally took two men and one large boy to unload from their pickup. I expect he paid more than $1000 just to get the new blade made for it. The old rule of thumb on the tried and true big splitters was $200 per inch of blade. That has weakened some, but not a lot. I know of a motorized 10" splitter in a local shop that is closed, but nothing is for sale. The Artisan is a 20" and one of the best favors ever done for me was to get a crappy demonstration and condescending sales talk one year at Sheridan. I had money in pocket to buy one, and Jerry didn't think I was serious. Cobra Steve has a 14" motorized splitter modeled after the Landis #30 crank splitter, not sure where the pricing is now on the Artisan or Cobra. .