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Hoffman Brothers in Des Plaines, Illinois. https://hoffmanbrothers.com/ kgg

Looking for parts, who deal in these machines?

New, never used, still wrapped in box - reinforcement materials for leather goods (handbags, belts, shoes, wallets, watch straps, holsters, etc). No longer need these items. Pricing listed below, next to each item. Located in North Central Florida. Pick up only. - Salpa (reinforcement to glue or stitch on back of leather/material to add stability and strength) - black - 5 yards of 0.4mm $135 - 5 sheets (39” x 59” each) of 0.6mm $65 - 7 sheets (39”x 59” each) of 0.8mm $105 - EVA foam (to add slight padding under leather/material) - white - 6 yards of 1mm $30 - Cellulose board (to add rigidity to bottom of bags, shoe insoles, etc.) - tan - 4 sheets (59” x 39” each) of 1.2mm $60

"Even older geezer" - that's me! I just spent many hours getting a new NAS working, why do the manuals for these things assume you understand what they're talking about? Made my brains hurt..... PastorBob, that is very effective (and a bit different).

I can't help with the needles but regarding a speed reducer it all depends how slow you want to sew. Most of the digital servos aren't slow enough for many of us, plus they lose a bit of torque when you use them at their slowest speed. I have servos on my machines and I've fitted home-made reducers as well (I like the control it gives me to reduce the chance of an errant stitch/needle hole!).

I wanna go to your school! But really, that's a very clean and crisp bag. Nice work!

I got my reverse irons here: https://www.kevinleetools.com/products/basic-diamond-chisel They are the Japanese diamond chisel (not the French pricking iron/slit style). size: 3.0, 4.0,5.0, or 6.0mm tooth numbers: *1+2+4+6 set *10 *15 *20 *1+2+4+6 reverse set That bottom set is what I have. I use them as a companion to a Japan Goods regular direction set (3mm, 1,2,3,4,6 and 10 tooth). Even though they are a different make, they match up just fine on the leather. These irons are light, and I think they might be small in size for folks with large hands, but they are well-polished and ready to use. ---------------------------- In case you need a French style reverse, Kevin Lee also features those to match his regular irons: https://www.kevinleetools.com/products/kl-french-style-pricking-iron Size 1.93mm, 2.25mm, 2.45mm, 2.7mm, 3.0mm, 3.38mm, 3.85mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.0mm Tooth 1, 2, 8, 20, 2+8 tooth reverse, 12, 5, 10 --------------------------------- Kevin Lee has reverse sets for other sets of his irons, both the low budget set (which I have) and a couple of the more expensive sets. I don't work for Kevin Lee, nor do I get any benefits from his company, but I am a satisfied customer who invested in his tools.

When I order a side from Wickett & Craig I ask for the back to be pasted on some of the sides. This way I dont have to take the time to do it.

Suede is a type of leather made from the flesh side of the skin, giving it a soft surface. It is typically thin and soft, has been mechanically worked to produce a nice soft consistent nap. Suede is often made from lambskin, but it is also made from other skins including goats, pigs, calves, and deer. When the flesh side of vegetable tanned leather is placed on the show side, it is called "rough out". Leather sold as splits have a suede appearance on both sides and is usually heavier than a typical showy suede. It's often chrome tanned. Hope this helps.

Great

Hi James, We are on a similar adventure as I'm almost finished restoring a 51W56 Singer post bed! The machine has been torn down, repainted and put back together and the table and stand are made. I am going with a servo motor as well. This machine handles DB x 1 needles which go up to 110/18 and have a 1.63 mm shank. I have machined a custom needle bar for my machine that will take 135 system needles and get me up to 125/20 using a 2.00 mm shank. I too want to use this machine to make my own footwear! Singer 51W56 Parts Manual Condensed.pdf 51W Manual.pdf

Will edge paint do the trick to seal the flesh? (I use Fiebings leather sheen or eco Flo super shene for a top coat on the grain…) -AZR

Where did you find the reverse irons? Inquiring minds are blown! I had been thinking about why reverse irons weren’t a thing, and this is literally the first time I’ve heard of their existence. As far as your process, I had been using a similar method (I think). On my next piece, I’ll try your method. As far as my stitching itself, it’s adequate enough to be acceptable, but I’m not going to focus on it until I can get the holes right. Baby steps… Just tossing out the method variation that I used on my current piece, last night I marked/drilled the stitch line on the welt first, and used it as a template to mark the holes from the grain on both sides before I punched. This particular piece I am only riveting, and so far they line up, but rivets don’t need the accuracy of stitching. Still need to dye it, so I haven’t actually set the rivets yet, but so far I’m feeling positive about it. Just a continuation for Dwight and Dikman, I was playing with the press punches again last night. It does seem that the torque from the rotation can pull on the leather closer to the edge and give a more oval hole. On that basis, I do prefer normal drill bits. I’ll play with using a maul punch (probably not the correct terminology, but just to quickly differentiate from the press punches) in the chuck. I question if I’m going to beat the press up, as I’m not in a position to replace it. (cheap benchtop model from harbor freight, definitely not the best engineered, but it usually gets the job done…) Thank you to everyone for their input, AZR

Yes, as I mentioned you can use gum trag or other edging compounds to 'paste' the flesh side of leather. (I understand the confusion, by the way; generally, when folks say 'suede' I think the average leatherworker thinks of a split piece without a grain side remaining.) Still, to make it weather/wear proof, you're going to need a topcoat on it, like Resolene or M&G. Larry

The flesh side of the leather, not suede specifically. Am I mistaken with terminology? Real question, no sarcasm from me. Please do educate me if I’m out in left field.

Looking for parts for a bobbin winder for a Ferdinand Bull machine. And threading sequence thamks

Any one have any leads on a O ring for a Ferdinand Bull bobbin winder ? And or threading sequence.? Thanks

Sorry, I was referencing the metal piece the rivet runs through. That's what I figured. I will see if anyone in my area can make one. Thank you

I think it's copper.

Is that a standard brass rivet? It looks like it to me

So why use suede?

that data should be easily accessible from your sales records.

Thanks, Larry. I'm pretty paranoid about fully covering Glock triggers, since there's no external safety to activate on them. I want to make sure if I ever took a tumble in some brush or whatnot, no stick or limb is going to find its way into my trigger guard and come in contact with the trigger. Thus, the "bat wings."

someone could make that in minutes. That's how I would go.

Those are pretty dang cool. Very nice work.