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Very creative. No kind of copyright issues, since you're just rebinding an existing book? Similar to repainting a truck? Looks like a satisfying project.

Thank you. Sorry I wasn't quite sure where the best place to post was.

@paintpony7417 I moved this to Saddle and Tack Accessory Items, since the first question is about the right leather type. Maybe the saddle moderator will refine it further. Somebody here should know what you need.

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the feedback. The thought process was to make it to sell. If it doesn't sell it was going to go on my bookshelf. Before I put the leather on it I showed it to a friend and he wanted it for his son. He just really liked the page edges and end pages. Lol Do y'all think I should put a 2 line border on the front and back covers?

Hi all, I have a few beginner questions regarding leather type and dying.... I want to make another headstall for my horse, but I am stuck on a few things. 1. What is the best type of leather for a headstall? I was thinking veg tan as that's what I used last time and I want to add basic stamps and tooling, but I don't like how stiff it is. Is there a way to soften veg tan leather to make it softer and more pliable? 2. I want to try and match the color to my saddle (pictured). I know this is kind of a loaded question, but what would be the best way to achieve a similar color? I have used tandy dyes (on veg tan leather) in the past but no matter how many finishes I apply the dye still rubs off on surfaces from time to time. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This is the saddle I'm hoping to color match my project to.

If I had a memory I'd be dangerous and I did this a few years ago. I'll try to find it but remember I'm in the UK and if IRC I bought it from a local engineers supply unit. They're really easy to use though because it comes in two parts. Each size of center piece is matched up with a series of sizes of the pulley itself. You marry the two with the set screws you can see at the joining point. This one has a 250mm pulley. The Adler 69 that I sold a while back had a 270mm pulley but likely had the same size center.

Can you post a link to where you bought your pulley? I recently ordered this 25cm pulley from amazon, still waiting for it. Yours looks more comfortable and safer (harder to get fingers caught in it.)

And they're easily available in all sizes and much cheaper than the normal speed reducer. Iirc the whole thing ,pullies and belt cost around £40.

So I purchased the zipper feet and made a quick case as a test. Forgive the edges and finish, as I considered it a quick experiment. In the end I really appreciate the input and suggestions and am quite pleased with the result. For an old guy with arthritis this will be a game changer!

A darner heavy duty!! glenn

Good luck. Contact Robert Collier at Collier Equipment in Alabama. glenn

It would be. The 969 is one of the heaviest machines made! The dealer did not know what he was doing!!! What was he thinking??? The 869 much better for your application. glenn

Set stitch length to 0 before you time it. glenn

Some needle bars appear to accept either shank diameter (1.6mm or 2mm) but the hook to needle distance is affected. Also where the needle lands in the throat plate is affected. When using round shank needles of the wrong diameter, you may be able to make up the geometry difference by rotating the needle bar a certain amount. (Meaning the needle clamp would protrude at some odd angle instead of protruding straight to the right) At least that was my fix at the time when I thought I had a bent needle bar in my Singer 31-15. Eventually I checked the needle bar on a thick piece of glass and found it to be straight, and ended up determining that the machine actually needed 2.0mm shanked needles for the needle to line up with the throat plate. That was such a happy discovery ⭐

He is a very good man, Darren! When I originally e-mailed him about the problem it was after business hours. He got back to me within 10 or 15 minutes! When I get his bill, I may tack a Christmas bonus on to it!

Fxck AI - don´t trust it too much. Not sure what needle this subclass is using but you can use different needle systems with the smae shaft diameter but have to alter the needle bar height. That usually it not big deal. Singer 16 (more common is 287 or 1738 as needle system) have a 1.63mm diameter IIRC and 135x17 have 2mm diameter needle shaft. It may work but you have to try it. Or you try to find a needle bar that ex factory is made for 2mm shaft needles. I did that with my old Singer 51w but it using a different needle bar that does not fit the Singer 17. EDIT: oh- BTW I once owned a 34K that ex factory is using a 2mm shaft needle and I had to replace the NB and I took one from a Singer 17 (!!!) and the machine after the NB replacement worked with the 2mm shaft needles but ex factory the NB was made for Singer 16 needles (as yours) so I would just try the needles and adjusts the the NB in height. Worth trying - never say no - just try it. But hand crank the machine before you are using it with a motor. This was my hunt for a Singer 34K NB 10 yrs ago 😅 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/

That is a beautiful pulley!

Can we get photos of the screw?

Thanks Constabulary ! Do you know if uses 135x16,135x17 needles ? One of the first things I found said machine uses 16x74 and is a obsolete needle system, then it says 16x2 and 16x1 is the modern equivalent and another AI mode thing said 135x17 is same needle system as 16x2 system ,so that gets me confused . Hope to find manual to study before I drive 50miles to see. Traffic here is no joke 😩

Way cool machine- really! I owned one but it did not suit my needs. I would not buy one again. Why - because why in the world should I pay $25-30 or one (1) needle? Chances are high that you break one and you better have a few spares on hand. Know what I mean? Depending on what you want to sew I would look for a an other model.

I had both 34K and 51w (still have it). Is sold the 34K cause I found the 51w and I do not look back. 34K is a bullet proof design, it was built to last but mine had a too tall post and I figured parts situation for the 51w is still good but even for the 34k you still find some new parts that the machine share with other Singer models. If I had too chose again I would always go with the 51w but you don´t always have choices. 34K´s also came with shorter post but sometimes you have to take what pops up on the used machine market. If you are looking "just" for a post bed machine then look for "810 Post Bed". It is more or less based on the 51w. This was my 51w project (1st model 51w):

The 17U model was made in Japan the 123 subclass has smaller diameter arm compared with other Class 17 machines and it is using Singer 15 type bobbin cases and bobbins. Apart from the hook / bobbin you should be able to use any other 17U model manual you find online. The subclasses usualy just have minor differences but the main machine often is the same. Check if needle plate and feed dog are present and in good order and see that the machine is complete in the hook area - see parts list for that or post more detailed pictures.

With servo motor and replacement handwheel and servo pullies to give speed control and extra torque. Will do a stitch at a time. Forgive the video quality and sketchy use. I haven't touched this machine for a very long time. Located in Chatham, Kent, UK. Pickup only. £850 Durkopp 239 with converted handwheel for extra torque and slower speeds..

I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You are more likely to get some feedback here.

Thanks for your replies. To my inexperienced eyes the oval looks ok. My thought is the screw that holds the piece in place and the area of the piece that the screw comes in contact with are both worn down. There’s now way to tighten it enough currently that will have the feed dog move correctly. I can’t see any loose movement in the shaft the dog attaches to though that doesn’t mean there isn’t. It’s pretty dirty in that area. Im planning to go by the shop this week and talk with him some more and maybe mess with it some more. Is there anything else you would recommend I should look at on this machine? Do you have a recommendation for a source for parts for the machine, specifically the screw and feed dog? Thanks again, Jonathan