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I just remembered when I was fiddling with the gears the sound stopped but when I when to retime it the sound started again so I think I found the original position of the gears which was out of time. Hopefully the sound go's away eventually.

Mr. Wizcraft! You are a wealth of knowledge and such a resource for we beginner hobbyists! The SewPro 500GR sounds like a great product. I watched a video on in and it will probably run forever... and I wish I had one. And your statement above is interesting... it sounds as though production issues made such units unreliable. I wonder if you have experience with the Kinedyne motors being discussed. I would very much like your opinion of the 1000SH model I use; how it compares with analog units as well as other digital units that were disappointing. Thanks again for all you do for the Forum. MOH

Neet's foot oil will soften and darken your leather. You can apply some, let it set for a day, and see if it needs more. Take a piece of the leather, make a strap, and test it, then match your color. The sun will also darken it somewhat with time.

Well done!

A bit more info in this old thread. Was a 170mm at that time, changed it again later.

Very creative. No kind of copyright issues, since you're just rebinding an existing book? Similar to repainting a truck? Looks like a satisfying project.

Thank you. Sorry I wasn't quite sure where the best place to post was.

@paintpony7417 I moved this to Saddle and Tack Accessory Items, since the first question is about the right leather type. Maybe the saddle moderator will refine it further. Somebody here should know what you need.

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the feedback. The thought process was to make it to sell. If it doesn't sell it was going to go on my bookshelf. Before I put the leather on it I showed it to a friend and he wanted it for his son. He just really liked the page edges and end pages. Lol Do y'all think I should put a 2 line border on the front and back covers?

Hi all, I have a few beginner questions regarding leather type and dying.... I want to make another headstall for my horse, but I am stuck on a few things. 1. What is the best type of leather for a headstall? I was thinking veg tan as that's what I used last time and I want to add basic stamps and tooling, but I don't like how stiff it is. Is there a way to soften veg tan leather to make it softer and more pliable? 2. I want to try and match the color to my saddle (pictured). I know this is kind of a loaded question, but what would be the best way to achieve a similar color? I have used tandy dyes (on veg tan leather) in the past but no matter how many finishes I apply the dye still rubs off on surfaces from time to time. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This is the saddle I'm hoping to color match my project to.

If I had a memory I'd be dangerous and I did this a few years ago. I'll try to find it but remember I'm in the UK and if IRC I bought it from a local engineers supply unit. They're really easy to use though because it comes in two parts. Each size of center piece is matched up with a series of sizes of the pulley itself. You marry the two with the set screws you can see at the joining point. This one has a 250mm pulley. The Adler 69 that I sold a while back had a 270mm pulley but likely had the same size center.

Can you post a link to where you bought your pulley? I recently ordered this 25cm pulley from amazon, still waiting for it. Yours looks more comfortable and safer (harder to get fingers caught in it.)

And they're easily available in all sizes and much cheaper than the normal speed reducer. Iirc the whole thing ,pullies and belt cost around £40.

So I purchased the zipper feet and made a quick case as a test. Forgive the edges and finish, as I considered it a quick experiment. In the end I really appreciate the input and suggestions and am quite pleased with the result. For an old guy with arthritis this will be a game changer!

A darner heavy duty!! glenn

Good luck. Contact Robert Collier at Collier Equipment in Alabama. glenn

It would be. The 969 is one of the heaviest machines made! The dealer did not know what he was doing!!! What was he thinking??? The 869 much better for your application. glenn

Set stitch length to 0 before you time it. glenn

Some needle bars appear to accept either shank diameter (1.6mm or 2mm) but the hook to needle distance is affected. Also where the needle lands in the throat plate is affected. When using round shank needles of the wrong diameter, you may be able to make up the geometry difference by rotating the needle bar a certain amount. (Meaning the needle clamp would protrude at some odd angle instead of protruding straight to the right) At least that was my fix at the time when I thought I had a bent needle bar in my Singer 31-15. Eventually I checked the needle bar on a thick piece of glass and found it to be straight, and ended up determining that the machine actually needed 2.0mm shanked needles for the needle to line up with the throat plate. That was such a happy discovery ⭐

He is a very good man, Darren! When I originally e-mailed him about the problem it was after business hours. He got back to me within 10 or 15 minutes! When I get his bill, I may tack a Christmas bonus on to it!

Fxck AI - don´t trust it too much. Not sure what needle this subclass is using but you can use different needle systems with the smae shaft diameter but have to alter the needle bar height. That usually it not big deal. Singer 16 (more common is 287 or 1738 as needle system) have a 1.63mm diameter IIRC and 135x17 have 2mm diameter needle shaft. It may work but you have to try it. Or you try to find a needle bar that ex factory is made for 2mm shaft needles. I did that with my old Singer 51w but it using a different needle bar that does not fit the Singer 17. EDIT: oh- BTW I once owned a 34K that ex factory is using a 2mm shaft needle and I had to replace the NB and I took one from a Singer 17 (!!!) and the machine after the NB replacement worked with the 2mm shaft needles but ex factory the NB was made for Singer 16 needles (as yours) so I would just try the needles and adjusts the the NB in height. Worth trying - never say no - just try it. But hand crank the machine before you are using it with a motor. This was my hunt for a Singer 34K NB 10 yrs ago 😅 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/

That is a beautiful pulley!

Can we get photos of the screw?

Thanks Constabulary ! Do you know if uses 135x16,135x17 needles ? One of the first things I found said machine uses 16x74 and is a obsolete needle system, then it says 16x2 and 16x1 is the modern equivalent and another AI mode thing said 135x17 is same needle system as 16x2 system ,so that gets me confused . Hope to find manual to study before I drive 50miles to see. Traffic here is no joke 😩

Way cool machine- really! I owned one but it did not suit my needs. I would not buy one again. Why - because why in the world should I pay $25-30 or one (1) needle? Chances are high that you break one and you better have a few spares on hand. Know what I mean? Depending on what you want to sew I would look for a an other model.