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Nice update! Did you mean bottom hole instead of bottom disk?

Is there a way I can prevent multiple successive posts from being merged into one? On this thread: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/131170-consew-225-loose-stitches-on-circle/#comment-780786 I replied to kgg Then I replied to wiz. (Separate messages for each) But when I clicked "save" on the second message, it said the items had been merged.

Here's how my top is threaded.

I got mine as a ring clamp. It is large but it is more comfortable to work with than a small one would be. Just because rings are small there is no reason why the clamps for them should be tiny too. This one holds rings well, which is why I bought it but it holds leather straps just as well.

Remember the excesses of the 90's when the kiddies discovered all the things they could do could inflict on us with HTML? Don't do that ...

A bandolier is NOT cut like a belt curve. A belt is made to go around your total round waist . . . the bandolier only needs a curve where it goes over the shoulder. The easiest and least costly way is to make the shoulder curve . . . then lace the edges of it and the two straight pieces (front and back) . . . decorate the curve with appropriate stampings for the person or time period the bandolier would be used. The straight pieces overlap at the bottom with a snap or a rivet. May God bless, Dwight

I rarely bevel the flesh side. I usually skive it thin and bevel the grain side after I've glued and/or sewn the project together

Hey all! So I’ve read/watched a few sources saying to bevel the flesh side before the grain, but none have said WHY… Any help from the peanut gallery? thx, AZR

There was once a fashion for reproduction Elizabethan Tudor ring purses. These could be used for holding the ring whilst the bag of the purse was sewn on. Tandy used to sell the rings

Thank you for the suggestion. It is another one I'm looking for, lol.

Maybe for bracelets?

Good job on those old tailor's shears! I agree they are worth fixing if you can. For sure there would be a market, but I think the key will be effective communication. In just about any hand-tool driven craft or trade, there's always a big range between guys who will do everything with a plastic butter knife, and guys who think you need a million special tools, each one slightly different for slightly different demands (and some only used on Tuesdays). Both ends of the spectrum (and every point in between) has guys who feel clueless and would believe anything you tell them, and guys who will die before giving up their one true way of doing things, and honestly every one of them is "right" if they can do the work they do. I think the trick when it comes to selling any tool in that environment is to clearly explain what and why your product is and how it can help, but avoid claims of authority unless you can back it up with your own AND others experience, while also leaving room for other perspectives. You'll always have guys that think you are wrong or trying to rob them. I think good products should sell themselves and good salesmen just provide information and let you make your own decisions. For sure you need to learn from the masters before you, but the water gets muddy when that master is also trying to sell you things, no mater how helpful or necessary they are. All that said, my take is that there's no "one-tool" to do it all, but it helps having redundancy and overlap in tools. I think good craftsmen have preferred methods and methods that they turn to when necessary, AND they're always learning and looking for other ways to do things better. When cutting thick and heavy leather, shears are not the first thing I reach for, but they can be really helpful when making adjustments to things after assembly or away from the workbench, like cutting flat belting for powering machinery like they were designed for. I think I've got a pair like in the first picture and they come in handy. In this case, the tool isn't "new" but is less common. You shouldn't have to worry about promoting your design as much as bringing the proven concept to a broader market, while also toting that they are hand crafted so the level of quality can be expected to be a little higher than factory made pieces.

I have one that is pretty big. They are clamps certainly though.

I think they're too big for ring clamps, judging by their size against the strap cutters

here is the old adjustment manual Pfaff 1245 Adjustment 89_09.pdf and parts list Pfaff 1245 Parts 85_07.pdf actually I gave you up the relevant information for the old 1245. If you are unsure which subclass you have please make a photo of the shield with class / subclass and share it here. It's kind of hard guessing things with so little information from your side :))))

Thanks! Yes it certainly was 😅 machines are intimidating to me still but I understand the need for them more now!

Very sharp. I really like how you designed this to attach with the existing bolts on the windscreen. Nicely done.

Floral carvings are timeless. Beautiful work.

These are ring clamps, normally used by jewelers to hold rings and other items tight while working on them. Amazon.com: KooingTech Ring Clamp, Wire Wrapping Tools, Jewelry Clamp Suitable for Gripping and Fixing Various Small and Delicate Components

if you have a well-worn belt the curve is there for you to copy.

Measure it(the needle) & let us know how long it is.135x16,16 is approx 1& 3/4" long 190 is almost 2"

that's a very good idea, and i tried to do that very thing, the only problem is that my pfaff 1245 is from the early 90's and i have tried to find the manual for it, or even the model number and i just can't find it, so i have no idea what needle the machine takes. i pulled the needle off the machine and it says "organ 22" but i don't know what that means.

I did wonder ....

Dwight, Thank you for this tip. I will certainly give it a try Sir. May God Bless you too.