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I rarely bevel the flesh side unless it's heavy leather like 5mm harness vt. I regularly bevel the grain side on most projects ,and fancy belts, but i dont bevel the plain belts as there are so many . HS

First, welcome to the forum :-) I have no clue what price you can command for the saddle bags, since it varies greatly from country to country. But take into account that if you sell it for XX $, and suddenly a friend of the person who bought them wants a set just like it, then you either need a good excuse like familiarly price or similar to not sell a set for the same amount to he next person. And if you think that would be to little, well - then you should sell the first set for more. (I hope it makes sense). Critique: There are a few places on the front and back panels that show the light coloured inside. Those would benefit form some black colouring (like your edge paint). The inside of the lid flaps, could also be painted, but that is just a more of a personal choice. I can't see how the bags should be attached to the bike (I'm assuming they are for the triangle near the rear wheel). This could be something that you have already discussed with the buyer, so it might not be a big deal. But if they are to be fixed with some sort of strap, then I'd attach two pieces on the back of each bag that the straps can go through. The stamp pattern looks good to me, and I like that it is only on the front panel, it gives a visual interest compared to if it was all over the bag. I like that the diagonal cut of the closing straps is mirrored, not that anyone would see the bike from both sides at the same time, but it shows that you have thought about it. Brgds Jonas

Can o have some advice on what would make my saddle bags better quality so to say. Like If I skive the edges on the pieces that connect the front and back to middle will that make the pieces of leather sit more uniform after being sewed

,Just finished this custom set of saddlebags took Damm near a week . What should I sell them for any suggestions. I was thinking around 400.

I have only beveled the flesh side on very thick (think armor thick) pieces, which are one piece of leather. Two pieces of leather, sewn together, are sewn flesh to flesh, so only the grain side needs bevelling.

LOL, Wiz! I recently traded in my 2010 Rav4 with 230,000 km. on it for a newer one. The only problem I had that wouldn't qualify as routine maintenance was a front ball joint needed replacing. Oh, and I managed to rip the bumper off one day by catching it on the tire of a parked truck... The truck was totally unharmed, fortunately.

Two minutes.

For you, I will hunt down the setting and see if we can go lower. ha ha

LOL not going for bling here. But LOTS of bulleted lists. You might laugh when you see it. 🏁

Thank you Thank you Thank you, there are quite a few different ones out there. I love the braid work, on my list to learn someday.

Hi, having some 269w troubles here as well. It’s been running fairly well for me for about 10 years, but fell out of time and I cannot get it back no matter how hard I try (I have sunk many hours at this point) Does anyone know a good mechanic w/269 experience in the NYC area? Thanks

akin to the bandolier is a baldrick (no, not that one!) and I made a few of those. Simple straight cut belting with an over-lap join at the hip and a loop for the scabbard

I saw this beautiful bag online. A lot of work went into it clearly. I suspect resist was used in the block dyeing way and then the black dye. Has anyone done this and is there a different technique? It certainly looks gorgeous.

I'll aim to wait three minutes in between replies if I mean them to be separate posts. 👍

There's an auto timer that merges posts made back to back. I think it's at 3 minutes? I'll have to check. It's to prevent clutter, from the old days when we had dial up connections and got interrupted, I suppose. Maybe tag each person you're replying to if it's in the same thread?

Thanks for the replies guys. Let me start by saying that this idea is just for cosplay/steampunk type use. Apart from anything else few over here could afford a bandolier full of 17 Hornet ammo. Not many own a 17 Hornet because our laws dictate that you have to have the land or permission to shoot land before you can have one and at around 3600fps there's not much land left that hasn't been carved up in one way or another that can take that range. As you can see a normal belt size won't do it. After reading these replies I realise that they don't need straps and buckles etc. Just fix the bottom end however and throw it over the shoulder. If it looks good I'll do another to go over the other shoulder.

I’m looking to repair an older CWD with a wood tree - need to reattach the stirrup bar on one side, what size rivets will I need?

Nice update! Did you mean bottom hole instead of bottom disk?

Is there a way I can prevent multiple successive posts from being merged into one? On this thread: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/131170-consew-225-loose-stitches-on-circle/#comment-780786 I replied to kgg Then I replied to wiz. (Separate messages for each) But when I clicked "save" on the second message, it said the items had been merged.

Here's how my top is threaded.

I got mine as a ring clamp. It is large but it is more comfortable to work with than a small one would be. Just because rings are small there is no reason why the clamps for them should be tiny too. This one holds rings well, which is why I bought it but it holds leather straps just as well.

Remember the excesses of the 90's when the kiddies discovered all the things they could do could inflict on us with HTML? Don't do that ...

A bandolier is NOT cut like a belt curve. A belt is made to go around your total round waist . . . the bandolier only needs a curve where it goes over the shoulder. The easiest and least costly way is to make the shoulder curve . . . then lace the edges of it and the two straight pieces (front and back) . . . decorate the curve with appropriate stampings for the person or time period the bandolier would be used. The straight pieces overlap at the bottom with a snap or a rivet. May God bless, Dwight

I rarely bevel the flesh side. I usually skive it thin and bevel the grain side after I've glued and/or sewn the project together

Hey all! So I’ve read/watched a few sources saying to bevel the flesh side before the grain, but none have said WHY… Any help from the peanut gallery? thx, AZR