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sure: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234079435236 this is with what the 31K48 came ex factory but roller size may vary. however we have not seen your machine and how it is set up. Could be this type as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/143603133032

Thank you very nice thinking on the back stitching I will take it for my next time I will start new project so this time I was trying to sale this machine so I have this seiko and consew for sale and the guy was sure that is do able to sew 207 I told him that is to mach for this machine surprisedly the machine sewed well forward but not backward and any way this guy is not serious and I got off him anyway, and I'm going to sit on these machines and set them up properly from the start thank you very much

If you're sewing a few stitches, reversing and then sewing forward again, you're running over the same stitches 3 times. That is going to be messy. Plus the needle hole isn't going to accommodate 3 threads. On my big 441 clone, I start a few stitches from the beginning, reverse 3 holes and then stitch forward again. This gives me 2 locked stitches with 2 threads each. You could try this or follow Hildebrands method, which is how we do it on machines without reverse. I think this is likely your problem. I'd double check that the machine likes that 207 thread. My 111Ws cap out at 138. How about they bobbin thread? What size are you using there?

Yes,same length.

Someone can help me I just got this motor it was on pfaff 2545 the guy didn’t want it So he give me motor accelerator pedal and the driver, but it didn't have the controller and I can't find it anywhere. Where can I find one? The motor works for a few seconds and then doesn't continue to work at all. Every time i turn it on, the same thing happens. And there was no needle positioner on this machine. Maybe it's something internal, I don't know.

I have a Singer 31K48. I’ve been looking for a roller foot for it. I have the one that came with the machine but it’s worn almost smooth. Is it possible to find a replacement or would some shop be able to resurface the foot that I have? Thinner leather seems to slip a bit as the foot is so worn. Thank you, Bren

I have pretty much quit stitching backward. To backstitch when I start, I turn the piece around so I am sewing forward toward the starting point, I usually try to mark about 3 stitches out, then when I get to the starting point I turn the work around and still sewing forward go back over the 3 starting stitches and sew it the rest of the way, when I get to the end I again turn the piece around and backstitch 3 stitches sewing forward along the stitch line. Todd

I will try to do some pic maybe tomorrow and a very good technician told me that the tension is different between forward and backward stitching I didn’t know that it most be away to fix it and we try to sew 207 thread with 23# needle that is also not good he said we need needle 24# for this thread and this machine not designed for this big thread

Jeeze thats nice work.

Super nice clean work - tooling, stitching, and finish are all top notch1

Looking good! Nice consistent sewing. Brgds Jonas

Here is a photo of the compressor pulley, relayed from @catskin

That looks very nice! Awesome work!!

Hey guys here is a simple lanyard that I made yesterday.

Wow great job!

Very nice!

We are going to need pictures. You need to be very precise in how you backstitch because this bigger thread we typically use looks messy quick. Definitely a quick picture of what you're calling "bad", please. .

Hi What can cause my back stitches the look bad, because my forward stitches is very good help plz its happened on two machine Consew 206rb-1 and seiko stg-8dlb-3

That sounds like a fantastic idea. I can see that it is a difficult decision about any border lines, since they should compliment each individual book and still look good according to that books theme and cover. When they are all completed they will be look incredible! Brgds Jonas

happened to me quite often. Waiting for a better price... for money to come in... lack of time... just being toooo lazy... looking for too long for information... When you see one you want grab it before someone else takes the 1st shot.

Thanks pal . . . beautiful wallet . . . I won't even think about doing something like that . . . never been that steady at cutting & stamping. May God bless, Dwight

Ohhh . Some one snatched it up before I got there !😔 Dam should have went Friday when I first found . Dam dam dam probably never see one of those again in my life span. Thanks guys for all the info

That is one of the coolest things I have ever seen. Wow. To me, it's especially significant, because I think The Silmarillion is one of the greatest books ever written and Tolkien one of the greatest authors ever, at least within the English literature pantheon. Excellently done indeed.

Each book will have different color marbled end pages, speckled page edges, and ribbons to match. Each of those colors will reflect the mood of the book. For instance, The Hobbit will have light brown marbled end pages, a dark brown ribbon, and light brown w/rust speckles page edges. It gives the feel of the earth because Hobbits like to grow things. As to the border lines around the covers I still haven't decided but I want to be consistant with all the books.

Thanks, I spray the whole piece brown then cut in the black. I have a small brush I have trimmed down to just two bristles at the end. Trimmed sheepskin for the black. The brown is Fiebing's light brown and chocolate brown 50/50 and then thinned 50/50 with thinner. Sprayed thru a HVLP spray gun. I don't oil after dying, just after tooling. After dye two light coats of Wyosheen then Sheridan Brown antique finish to high light all the cuts followed by two more light coats of Wyosheen. The inside pocket with his name was pretty tough. I had to do it three times to get it right with out cutting thru. That stuff is very thin. It's about half as thin as that 2/3 W&C. Makes nice wallet interiors and you can dye any color you want.