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Ich habe auch noch dieses rot eingekreiste Teil übrig, von dem ich nicht weiß, wofür es ist und wo ich es hinstellen soll.

Nach fast einem Jahr habe ich es endlich geschafft, alles zusammenzubauen und die ersten Tests durchzuführen. Es war gar nicht so einfach, ich bin schließlich kein Nähmaschinenmechaniker, aber sie funktioniert. Nur die maximale Zickzackstichlänge von 9–10 mm ist nicht wie erwartet (statt 12 mm). Vielleicht muss man da etwas einstellen, aber ich komme im Moment nicht drauf. Es gab ein kleines Kompatibilitätsproblem mit den Zahnrädern und den Schrägverzahnungen, da sie nicht richtig in das vorhandene Zahnrad passten. Mit etwas Schmirgelpaste habe ich die Maschine ein bisschen gedreht, und dann hat es geklappt.

Similar to how I do it. I machined an arbor for the 60mm blades which I spin in a lathe and sharpen using a post grinder. I use a very fine grit stone which is followed up with a leather strop. I have about 20 blades and I sharpen a batch when about 1/2 of them need sharpening. Yeah, I know these blades are not pricey but my Dutch genetics won't allow me to waste money.

@Constabulary Variations like what you found seems to be somewhat common with some items I got from the orient in the past. Also the lack of good finish on parts, such as presser feet for the 801 bell skiver, have been a minor irritation but not uncommon even from touted & expensive US manufacturers/resellers. I'm fortunate that I have the tools and skills to finish or modify items to get them to work properly. BTW, the items I ordered are now in country and should arrive in about a week.

I was just selected as a tester for EngraveFill Pro. I should go live in the next couple weeks, but WOW am I impressed. Cool thing is, you only pay what you generate. No $300 programs! check it out. I am in no way associated with them, just a tester, but they seem like nice folks. https://engravefill.app/?fbclid=IwY2xjawNzE-pleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETEwR1lxM3p0RmljTWE0a3VMAR64tK9fXckb7w-6E-TNOLTRVzfAAHNsNPu1eLJrSl3CKLo7wEgeLRGHwR3kKw_aem_1tv2YBQc8KI2ve2MMQ98lw&payment_id=pay_1VKVbNuCXXuqulKKitxEJ&status=succeeded#/ On Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/1359934906135899

If you cannot get the gear to move, you could loosen the shaft again, and move it over the right number of teeth to bring your timing back to what you had before.

There are three set screws to loosen. How many did you loosen? Once all three are loosened, if still not moving you can add a few drops of diesel and let it sit to dissolve some of the corrosion, if that's the issue. You can also screw one of the set screws partway out, then place an end wrench (or spanner wrench) around the gear, using the protruding part of the set screw for the wrench to grab onto. (Go gently though)

So I’m wanting to use a Preval unit, but I’m mixing my dye and don’t want to mix more than I need. Is there a “minimum” amount needed in the bottle for the sprayer to work properly? TIA, AZR

As a follow-up, I guess, is there any change in technique when using both oil- and water-based dyes? Wow I really feel like a noob again after finally getting some NFO from Tandy (they couldn’t get any from the warehouse for MONTHS!)… — AZR

Ok, simple question (maybe)… Does water- vs oil-based dye affect how you use NFO? Is the typical oil/water separation even a concern? Ive been watching some videos from the University of YouTube, and I’ve noticed that they’re all using Fiebings Pro, and not water-based (I prefer the Pro dye myself, but I happen to have a water-based dye for this project), and I don’t want to ruin a piece by lifting or smearing the dye. TIA, AZR

I'll get a new left toe foot but have to place a new order - thats okay for me considering the fairly low price of the feet. They for sure have something I could use. I also found some interesting cheap feet for the Adler 67, 167, 68, 168, 69, 169, 267 and so forth "line" in their store: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008687919538.html nutin for me Singer Idjit but looks like a good deal for the Adler folks 😉

The first few pictures are all the same style but in many different variations. This has become a great seller. The last picture in this style is still in progress. I am waiting on some hardware. The crossbody was a very tedious build. I love the strong color contrast.

I wouldn't carry such a thing in my pocket, but customer is always right! I had fun with this one. Not much to it after the design and layout is done, but that was the fun part of this one. Sewing was a challenge, and learned a few things. Double stitched on all the corners. Who doesn't need more sewing practice? Lol

Here in NC we don't get as cold as Colorado but winter gets cold enough to freeze some of my leather stuff if left in my shop during winter. The alcohol based dyes ain't really a problem but alot of the stuff like paints and finishes and oils and glues I have had problems with. I thought about taking one of my cabinets in shop and insulating it with foam board or something. But what I end up doing was buying me a dedicated tote. I got one of those stackable rolling tool boxes but a cheaper one. It holds all my supplies and keeps them somewhat organized. And it makes it easy enough to just bring in the house with me and roll it out to my shop when I'm working and shop is heated up. I was gonna use a old rolling suitcase that I have laying around and make some dividers for it but found a good deal on the webs for the box I got.

When I bought my twin needle Seiko 339, the seller, who was an awning company, was selling the machine as broken. Because after sewing only a few inches, the thread in the left needle was entirely unwound. The awning company was trying to make long seams and it just didnt work at all. Folks on this forum recommended right twist thread and that fixed the issue immediately, but the selection of right twist thread is pretty limiting. I probably need to try some better, left twist bonded thread in the left needle. Thanks.

I never have bought R-twist for the L-side needle on the double-needle machines . I just keep an eye-on that L-side when sewing and binding. I don't think any one man shops or small sew shops do. You just keep eye on the left side as you go and when you notice the thread twist getting shitty, You just drag-threw some fresh thread off the L-cone threw needle and keep going. That said, Not All threads are equal in the quality and twist and bonding. ( for example ) , I am just coming to the end of a case of A&E t70 nylon bonded, and good riddance. I won't run that A&E t-70 on the double-needles because the thread is inferior and the thread Twist and Bond turns to Crap Real Fast on the L-needles . So I picked up 20 lb. box of Coats brand t70 nylon bonded six months ago with the same Color Code# as the A&E . That case of Coats brand thread is So much better quality twist/bond, and it will run for long time threw the L-side needle before I have to drag threw some fresh thread . .

Wrap each bottle in bubble wrap. Make sure its very warm when you do tho. Bubble wrap is a fine insulator; it'll keep things cold or warm, but it depends on the temperature when the item is wrapped. I use medium sized bubbles, not the small ones nor any of the larger. This will help keep the bottles warm for a while but you may have to go out to warm them and re-wrap them

Adler 167-372, -373 Spare parts list.pdf A coupe more docs just in case you don't have them. 🙃 Leaflets_Adler_Class_167_part2.pdf

I have recently moved all of my leather work into my shed out of a bedroom in the house, made it into a small shop. My quandary is that I want to move all of the dyes, finishes etc. into the shop because it's a silly thing to be working in the shed and have to come into the house for a bottle of dye. It isn't too cold yet, but living here in Colorado I know that eventually it's going to be in the low teens and below Zero soon, so I am wondering if anyone would have some workable ideas on how to keep those chemicals from freezing? This morning the outside temp was 28 degrees and inside the shed it was 40. So with that info I am predicting the inside temp will soon be at or below freezing once the outside temps reach 20 degrees. That will be very soon. I have attempted using a 20 quart cooler, but I am Leary to have electrical heating in the box with chemicals. I am open to any and all ideas.

Hi Have a picture for the part you need ? email me Thanks

Were you ever able to figure out the cause/solution of the tension issues? After taking it to the shop? Having the exact issue with my new-to-me PFAFF 1245 right now. It was running amazing and then I thread jammed it, threw the safety clutch (didn’t even know what it was at the time), retimed it according to the adjustment manual to best of my knowledge and the bobbin thread is looking exactly like yours. I tried tightening the top thread tension to see if that was the issue and it didn’t work. Tried loosening bobbin tension, nope. Ugh.

That is a reasonable price

Once, I was teaching a classroom of kids about the many different kinds of hammers a woman came to pick up her boy early. I was just finishing up when she came over to me and said Are all of those hammers yours I said Yes, they are. She then said If you were my husband, I would kick you right in the ass I asked her why, and she said in a heavy Irish brogue Why would a man need more than one hammer? after I explained just the hammers on the table, she got the point. She said to me Wow, I never thought of that. LOL to Hondo Man's point, you don't use a 22oz waffle head framing hammer for finish work. or a tack hammer for framing. LOL

I think that like many good tools it can be used for many applications other than the primary one

Ah! Evidently something to hold a seal while you're carving it. Thank you! Ey! Belli ki onu oyarken mührü tutacak bir şey. Teşekkür ederim!