kevinhopkins

Hi... This is going to sound pretty self serving, but I really don't mean it to be. We've sold ginger shears for years, and the one that we've settled on is the one that I'd recommend... (naturally) But I don't know the stupid number of the things... (I'm at home) But if you call, I'd happily pass it on to you. The only thing is, you'll have to find a dealer, because I doubt that Gingher will deal with you. They make about a zillion shears, and they're all great in my opinion, but for general leather work, I feel that the one that we've settled on is the most practical. Tandy has a copy, but I'm not a fan of it. They also carried the ginger ones, but they've discontinued them, so if you can find a store that still has some, you could possibly get a deal. Hope this helps, and happy snipping! Kevin

Hi Rickey, Yes...maybe,...well possibly...sort of...uh...sure. It seems like everyone out here has their own recipe for finishing certain types of leather work. And they all work pretty darned well. But there's a reason why there are a whole bunch of different finishes out here for sale... I wish I had half the knowledge that some of these guys do when it comes to putting a finish on a pc of leatherwork. If you ask Bo Riddle in our shop what finish he uses for such and such, the answer will be "floor wax". But on something else, it will be "Acrylic resolene". And on something else it will be "acrylic resolene mixed with a few drops of white acrylic paint, a teaspoon of alcohol, and a frog's toenail"! Anyhoo...I think you'll probably do a great job of coming up with a finish that you like. And by the way, to use neat lac properly, it really does need to be thinned, even right out of the can. And by the way, I'm hoping that your livelihood hasn't been drastically affected by the spill????? And thanks for the business too. Kevin

I'm really not a holster maker per se, but I really think you did a great job! Kevin

Hi... It's still possible that it could be a timing issue.... maybe unlikely.... But if a machine is timed so that it's operating at what I call the top limit of the timing range, or the bottom limit, it takes very little to push it over the edge so that you get some skipped stitches. Probably not the case with yours, but it's nice to know. It really tends to be more of a problem when going from leather that you normally sew, to much thicker or thinner leather. Anyway, I just like to throw a couple of cents around, even if they aren't worth much most of the time! Hope you get sewing soon! Kevin

Hi... Glad you got your holster issue ironed out... Folks on this site are great aren't they? If it's any help, I've got the pull the dot snaps... You don't even have to buy all the parts if you don't need them. You can buy just the ones that you need, and use regular dot snap parts for the rest. Happy Holsters! Kevin@springfieldleather.com

Hi... Twin Oaks has some good tips for you.... It's difficult to actually say what was used on the pc of leather in the picture, but it sure looked to me like Fiebings antique acrylic stain just right out of the bottle! Another thing that you might want to consider is the actual leather itself. Both Hermann Oak, and Wickett and Craig leathers perform very very differently than the import leathers that are cheaper and more readily available. It's been my experience that no matter what you're trying to accomplish with a pc of leather, it's always easier, and more pleasurable to work with high quality leather. Happy staining!

Hi... Wizcrafts is right about the sailrite. I sell them, but I don't know that it's what you want. THey're a good machine, as far as portables go, but when you say "3 layers of 6 oz" you've eliminated a Sailrite. The feeling that I get, is that you really want an industrial machine, but you want it to be portable. For what it's worth, I'd suggest rethinking about how bad you want a machine, and if you decide you really do want one, then go for it, and make sure that you get one that will do what you want. The type of gear that you mention sort of indicates to me the need for a machine that is heavier than the sail rite. And unfortunately, that will mean a heavy machine on a table that really isn't portable. If almost all your sewing is going to be fabric, then the sailrite might be all you need, but if you're going to do over 10-12 oz of leather, then you might need to rethink. Hope I didn't rain on your parade.... I'm a real believer in sewing machines, and I think every one on the planet ought to have one. But I know from first hand experience how horrible it is to have a machine that won't do what you need it to. Call if I can be of help. Kevin@springfieldleather.com

Hello all.... It's an interesting time that we live in, that's for sure. As to the leather world, I believe it's changed forever. I do see some positive side effects of the economy tho, in addition to many negative ones. One positive effect for small business leatherworkers is the consolidation that has taken place. When the economy was in it's bubbly part, it seemed that anyone could slap something together, and sell it, and call themselves a business, crafter, or whatever. But with people being more conservative with their funds, and being more conscious of value, practicality, and customer service, the folks that haven't been able to adapt to that mentality on the part of their customers have either not done well, or gone away. It also seems to me that business people in this country have become accustomed to living in a rut that was established years ago. Many have discovered that what used to work in the past, simply doesn't anymore. And because of reluctance to expand or change or diversify, lots of businesses have simply vanished. At any rate, there are still a lot of people that want custom leather products, and there doesn't seem to be as many people that are able to supply their needs as there used to be. The town that our business is in isn't all that big, but it seems like our shop could stay open 24-7 doing nothing but small custom projects if we wished. Also, I think that in the past, a realistic price for custom leather work was often sacrificed simply because many crafters didn't have the right equipment to make it possible to produce a quality product within a time frame that actually allowed for a realistic profit. The changes in the sewing machine world have made it possible for many leather workers that were doing things by hand, to actually open doors to many opportunities that simply weren't available to them previously. I don't think that I could count the number of folks that have entered the holster making world because of the first Toro 3000. As well as the large number of folks that purchased a post sewing machine and started selling their handbags at various craft shows. I've known many knife makers who bought a heavy stitcher, just to make his sheaths more professional looking, only to discover that now they could supply someone with a significant number of knives per month, and actually make some decent money. And the vast amount of information and experience that is available to folks thru the web has helped many to get their business off the ground as well. I could go on forever about this stuff, but I need to help a customer! Sorry if I've stepped on any toes1 Kevin

Hello.... I do still have quite a few of those bevel tips. Great little tools! Thanks, Kevin@springfieldleather.com

Hi... For what it's worth, thickness and stiffness of leather just really don't have any relationship to each other. Like twin oaks said, it's all in the tannage. Tanners tan leather for very specific purposes, and they tan according to strict parameters... THey can make a 4 oz pc of leather as floppy as a wet washrag, and they can turn the same pc of leather into something as hard as a board! It's a bit difficult to get experience in this sort of thing, so I'd suggest just asking lots of questions, and if possible, let the person that you're buying the leather from, know what you're going to be doing with it, so they can do their best to make sure that you get what you need. If you happen to be in the position where you need to order leather thru the mail, I'd advise calling rather than simply placing an order on line, or from a catalog. That way you'll have the best chance of getting what you really need. Hi... For what it's worth, thickness and stiffness of leather just really don't have any relationship to each other. Like twin oaks said, it's all in the tannage. Tanners tan leather for very specific purposes, and they tan according to strict parameters... THey can make a 4 oz pc of leather as floppy as a wet washrag, and they can turn the same pc of leather into something as hard as a board! It's a bit difficult to get experience in this sort of thing, so I'd suggest just asking lots of questions, and if possible, let the person that you're buying the leather from, know what you're going to be doing with it, so they can do their best to make sure that you get what you need. If you happen to be in the position where you need to order leather thru the mail, I'd advise calling rather than simply placing an order on line, or from a catalog. That way you'll have the best chance of getting what you really need. Hope this helps! Kevin

Hi Slugmar, Sounds like you've got an interesting set up! For what it's worth, I don't think I'd fuss with the goathides too much, unless you already know that you have a use for them. For an individual to tan them in such a way as for them to really be useable, (other than rawhide) it's just a bit tricky, time consuming, and a heck of a lot of work. Not that you can't do it, mind you, but it doesn't sound to me like it would do you all that much good. I'm sure you'll like the site! Happy goating, or whatever you call it.... Kevin

Hi Rickey, Really, I think that when you need a piece of leather for something that special, you just need to let the vendor know what you're doing. If you tell me that you need an absolutely perfect pc of leather for a seat, and you tell me that you need to have it 34 x 36, (or whatever), I would think a vendor would make sure that you got a side that would allow you to cut that. On the other hand, If you need a 24 x 36, and you don't want to buy a whole side, just tell us, (or whoever you buy it from) and I'll cut it for you. I really don't mind cutting a perfect piece of leather for someone, and I'd think that the rest of the vendors would be happy to do that too. Usually those pieces are associated with a project that the creator is getting some serious money for, and they'd be happy to pay a premium to get what they want and need. And (speaking for spfd only) we're pretty happy to cut leather for someone, because we can always sell, or use whatever is left. You just need to make sure that you've got a good relationship with your vendors in a situation like that. Take care! Kevin

Hi... We normally have it at springfield leather too. Kevin

Hi.... I've almost always got elephant for 14.99 per sq ft.... But the color availability changes pretty rapidly, because we seem to sell it fairly rapidly. Kevin@springfieldleather.com

Hi ABC3, Embossing is just like tooling, in that water content is critical. And so is the leather that you use! But as long as you've got the proper moisture content, you'll do fine. I wish you the best.... especially your right arm..... Happy cranking! Kevin

Hi Rickey, I think they really look better with the scales on too, but sometimes it's hard to get them to stay, especially after an extended period. I'm sure some applications would not be as subject to the scales coming off as other applications might be. Pretty hard to get them to stay on a belt tho! Kevin

Hi Particle, I'd vote, but it would be prejudiced... But I do have a couple of thoughts that might benefit someone. I've been on both ends of the issue, buying one or two hides at a time, and buying 10 or 50 or 100. For a small manufacturer, or a hobbyist, there are several things that are pretty darned important. One is the fact that anyone that buys leather regularly needs to have, or develop, a very good working relation ship with some vendors. the reason is that in the leather world, there are simply without fail going to be problems. A good vendor will take care of you, work with you, not take advantage of you, and will resolve problems and give you the benefit of the doubt. You might find yourself paying a bit for that, but i think most serious leather crafters will agree that it's worth the extra pennies, or even dollars. On the qty thing, you can for sure save some money, but you'll almost always get some leather that will be on the lower end of the scale that you're ordering from. The solution to that problem, (at least from my point of view) is to first of all, be in a position to be able to use whatever you get, even if it's not up to par. Next, let the tanner know about the problem and give them a chance to work with you. Veg leather tanners are unique folks. To start with, there aren't but a few in the country. They're extremely conciencious, and they try their best to send useable leather to their customers. That being said, it takes time for a tanner, or a retailer for that matter, to learn just what your needs are. I have a customer that makes a zillion belts a year, and he uses nothing but Hermann oak that he buys from us. He'd much rather buy a C or a D grade leather than A or B. He has a hard time with a hide that is a D grade because of a 6 inch vertical scar in the middle of the hide, but he has no problem at all with a 10 inch horizontal scar. Since I know that, he always gets leather that he can use from me. In return, he'll call me and let me know that he needs a hide for some knife sheaths, and he'll tell me that he can take a hide with more issues on it, because he knows how to use it and work with and around those things. I can send him a pc of leather that might be a little harder for me to sell, and give him a little price break on it, and we're both happy. Anyway, I've rattled enough, and there's about a week's worth of plus's and minus's on both sides of the issue. I'm sure you'll get some interesting feedback. And by the way, it's a great question! Kevin

Hello Craftt... Very nice job! Sounds like you got a pc of leather that just wasn't too hot... I guess we've all gone thru that a time or two! Anyway, considering what you were working with, I'd have to give you a thumbs' up! Kevin

Hi Jeff, Basically, a round point needle doesn't cut, it simply pierces. It's quite good when it comes to sewing nylon and other fiber materials, because it doesn't cut threads. A chisel point actually cuts. It's good for leather because it actually cuts and divides the fibers. Both will work for doing either or, but it's better to use a proper point for what you're doing. Happy sewing! Kevin

Thanks Anne! Spfd will send a card and a flower, as I'm sure will many! Kevin

Hi... something that I've done to accomodate the line 24's on thumbreaks, is to punch a round hole in one layer of the leather that the socket can sit in. It really works well, and totally eliminates the need for extra long shanks on those things. Happy snapping! Kevin/springfield leather

Hi... I think Lobo has got it on the slot punches... the dumb things are expensive, but they work. As to the W/C leather, I don't know if it's changed over the years or not, but I've got a customer that uses it, and he tells me that he requires W/C to "holster" the leather that he buys from them. I really don't know what that means, and he doesn't either, but his holsters come out really nice, and he says the leather is easy to work with. Sorry I don't have any more info... maybe someone else does... Kevin

Hi Gawa, Today, this punch is made by osborne, and I think it was when tandy sold it years ago. They're sold for 70-80 bucks retail these days. Kevin

Hi... if you can swing it, you might want to think about putting a speed reducer and/or a servo motor on it. With those two things on it, your 10 yr old daughter could operate it, even without experience! if you have one that is... Kevin