Trox

You are welcome, I do not remember where I got it. I have a great collection with sewing machine manuals on my computer. I better store them online if my computer breaks down they are lost. Tor

You are we You are welcome. Its a good manual, every 441 owner should download it. It has both user and adjustments data, that is pretty unusual. The down load link will work 60 days, if that is not enough I will post a new one. Tor

Hi, all who needs the Juki TSC 441 manual and the spare part list can download them here (from my cloud drive) http://shares.1hund.....1hund.com/441/ The file on 210 KB is the manual, and yes the other is the part list. (link is valid for 60 days) This is an public manual I found online somewhere (I forgot where) Tor

Hi, all who needs the Juki TSC 441 manual and the spare part list can download them here (from my cloud drive) http://shares.1hund.....1hund.com/441/ The file on 210 kb is the manual, and yes the other is the partlist. (link is valid for 60 days) Tor

Hold your thread tight when you start sewing (top and bottom for the first four stitches or so). When you lift your foot to do a corner, make sure your needle is down (just past the bottom dead point and catched the bottom thread) before you lift your foot. Or else you will get loose stitches in the corners. Adjust the tension mainly using the top tensioner, keep the knot in the middle of the material and a tight stitch. When you back stitch to lock the seam; hold your thread ends tight ( like in the start of the seam). You might have to adjust both the bottom and the top tension, try to avoid the bottom unless you have to use it. Remember it probably was set up fine from before, when you forget to hold down your thread ends tight at the start; you will get loose stitches and it looks like the tension is wrong.

Unless you use very thin thread linen will be more than strong enough. You do not have to worry about the strength of the thread. Choose what works best with your machine, have the color and size you want.

Hi, I cant find it on the Juki website right now. Send me a PM with your email and I will send it to you (if you post it here you will have allot of spam). It is a pdf on 210 kb only, most emails servers will handle that size. Tor I agree with Greg, these things happen. Steve will fix it in no time. Good luck Tor

You have threaded it right true the take up spring disk, so the spring works. One and a half turn and up over the spring (second disk). This is not a chap machine, use some more under its foot. Everyone has tension problems with new machines. Just get familiar with it, and use it in its comfort zone until you get it right. The jump foot should just get clear of the material, put more under its foot and it still will. Tor

They should use removable locktite on that part according to the manual and the assembling is done with a torque wrench (it has the pressure stated in the manual).

A little bit unsteady camera movements there. Nevertheless, I understand how its working now. The machine is a needle feed jump foot with an extra top needle guide. What looks like an extra foot is actually a needle guide, it make sure the needle do not bent away from the hook. If it does you will have a skipped stitch as the result. Thats the Ferdco mark, they have several patented needle guides who makes their machines in to very fine leather tools. It lloks like the machine works as it should do, no reverse on these; you have to use the poor mans reverse. What will work better than a standard one with leather needles (I mostly turn on my 441 too). It pains me to see you run it without material in, do not do that you will ruin it that way (take out the bobbin thread too when you not are sewing, so you want get a backlash). Its lots of adjustments on the back side of it, that arm that moves sideways will perhaps adjust the stitch length. It looks like the second tension disk has a take up spring, then you can thread one and a half time around it to get more top tension. You will get the hang of it, very nice find for the money. All machines has a learning curve, try to do some sewing with it. Tor I agree with Turbotex you must try some real sewing with it.

Linen thread is a very good machine thread as long as you use new thread (Thread is fresh ware, and without wax of course). Three ply thread would be fine. Linen might have their own size scale and I use metric sizes. However, with bonded nylon and polyester thread you can use from about tex 69 to 135. Perhaps a size bigger on the top thread, I am not familiar with the Consew machine but I know the machine it is a copy off (Singer 111W). Linen is not as strong as the modern threads. However, I see no reason it want work on your application if you use the right size for the thickness of material ( which I do not know). Tor

Wow, I do not know what to say, maybe a Chinese who want to save money and used bad material. No, these things may happen, It has to be some fault in the casting of the part. Or machining, I do not know if they use casted or machined shafts on the Chinese machines. You must either send the entire machine back or get a genuine Juki replacement part (the clone brands use the Juki spare part program, because they do not have their own; except for a few parts like hooks and accessories). Get a magnifying glass and check for more faults when you at it, you probably will not find any. If the machine was to be hit from something during shipment, that is an exposed part too. You have to decide if you want to return it or not, check the entire machine well before you do. If this is the only fault you will manage to fix it yourself if you get a new part from Steve. Bad luck and a nearly invisible little crack it all it takes. Tor

Will you post the link here later?

Yes he is lucky to get a tenth of what he asks. I have contacted some local Norwegian clicker die makers and waiting for their quotes. I am also looking to buy some knife steel to make some of the less complicated dies my self. However, I am always on look out for standard second hand dies like belt end, rosettes and such. If somebody has any good contacts on clicker knife steel by meters, please let me know. Thanks Tor

HI, both Wiz and I have received one each, mine was the second and a improved model. You can use the feed dog under it and it wide enough for the harness foot. I cannot post a picture without asking the member who made it first, because it is possible it going in production. It has an improved construction to make it stronger. Although, its very strong it is best suited as a prototype. I will ask for permission to post a pic of it here later today. Tor

It has to be some adjustments on the feed mechanism somewhere, height adjustment for the thickness of the leather and so on. Why do you not ask the person you bought it from. Normally you got to adjust the amount of "jump" with a jump foot machine (the bottom feet I think) with the thickness of the leather. It has to move out of the way for the other foot, the top one who moves with the needle. Ferdco pimped exiting machines added needle guides and feeding features (and more) to make them better. There got to be similarities with original machine (maybe thats the Pearson #6). I have only seen pictures of these machine, they do not exist here where I live. You will get the hang of it.

There are members who knows this machine, maybe they are pissed you get it that cheap. To bad Ferdco is no more, they was the pioneers in building (modify) new leather machines. I really love their work. At least one of those feets got to move, the top one must move with the needle and the other must get out of the way. Does it feed as it should?

Thats looks like a real leather machine, not bottom feed. Some kind of top and needle feed. Strange position of that foot, cant be right?

Then it is a needle feed with some kind of special bottom feed, a four motion maybe. A jump foot is a either a s spring loaded or driven feeding foot ( with some people, normally it is the first)

Use button for more reply option and the full editor pops up

Fottlift handle or chain is in up position (chain caught up in something). Or it is a screw on the backside of the machine (near the front of the head) , on the shaft that can be moved in a slot. It is for adjusting the alternating height, check if its loose. If not take of the face plate, there is two screws on the foot bar that can be loose( just follow the foot bar up and you will see them). Its for the outside foots height adjustment. Try these things first. Good luck Tor

Hi Marj, I bought the plate I am talking about from Cowboy, it was to height for my use (for several other members too). I reduced the height with my bench grinder, slack belt grinder and Dremel tool (made a small flat foot support on the top of it, sorry no pic`s). Made sure it kept cool all the time not to mess with the tempering. Finally, I cleaned it up with a Dremel and gave it a good polish on the buffing wheel, pretty much like I modify any other sewing attachment that needs it. There are different stirrup/ bag plates out there; this is maybe the highest of them. It steals capacity from the foot lift and its curved form makes a bad support for the sewing feet. The perfect stirrup/ bag plate would also allow use of the feed dog underneath as a needle guide. (It’s a big job to change to this plate from a regular one) A member friend designed and sent me a 3D printed stirrup plate that is about perfect. It’s a bit high because of the material in use (it’s a plastic compound and needs to be thick), it works very well). The CB stirrup plate also have a too narrow feet (sewing) support, when you use the double harness foot the right toe has no support; It hits outside the plate. The foot is 12 mm and the support on the plate is only 8 mm wide. I do not have a right toe harness foot yet (in order), but others report it hits outside the plate (of course it does; it has the same position as the right toe of the double foot). This is clearly a manufacturer error, these attachments are all from the same brand (and plate is made for use with this feet’s). There have been allot of discussion about the difference in material between clone brands accessories, the fact is they all look the same. My guess is they all are too, that’s how things works in China, one factory one part (more or less of course) We spend allot of time telling others about how great our equipment are, it is important we post about the faults too. Or else we cannot expect any development and better tools. When we talk about thread tension and if you have to adjust or not using this plate; it is of course depended of the conditions and the pre change settings. (Some use much tension others less, thread, size, lube or not, feed dog or not etc.) There are differences in threading and tension disk setups too. You can’t compare with out use the same of everything and it’s not important anyway. Most of the accessories for these machine works great and do not need any modification, it somewhat surprising this plate has faults. Tor

You need to back off the top tension quite a bit on the 441, because of the extra height of the needle plate (the thread loops get longer). However, it not difficult to get right. I reduced the height of my Cowboy stirrup plate a bit, it made the machine much easier to adjust and reduced stitch errors with this plate. You best use the left or right harness foot for the job, they do not need any modification. Machines with lower duty rating (upholstery class triple feed cyl. bed`s) who are good for the job are; Pfaff 335, Adler 69 (clones of these narrow arm machines). Adler 169, 269 and above (Ø 80 mm arm) with a bag plate. All kinds of feet's available for these machines. Older heavy stitcher's : Adler 205- 25 MO and Adler 105- 25 MO (and more; top feed with small stirrup/bag plate and heavy threads) Tor

Those machine where about 6 K new and Ferdco made very good machine; 700$ must be a bargain. On ferdco`s website they wrote that the Hoffman brothers have bought up the rest of their company http://www.hoffmanbrothers.com/ You might give it a try if you have not done so yet. Is it a needle feed jump foot machine?, they look great. What about a picture. Thanks Tor

Hello Jake, I find your post very interesting. I have a 441 clone bought in Europe, because of its large needle system (794) it creates allot of heat when you speed up a bit. I have been using silicon lube and I do not like it at all, It is messy and do not mix with paint. I have considered building on an air spot needle cooler, but have not done it yet. I have also tried other kinds of leather oil, but it makes the thread stick too much to the metal and causes occasional (many) skipped stitches. That’s brings me to the original question, do you experience any stitch errors using olive oil. If so, is that the reason you use a bigger needle, to get closer to the hook. Anyway, I love using natural product like that; I will definitely give it a shot. Thank you Tor