Trox

Thats an impressing stock of machines Steve, do you have a website to show them. I love to see old machines, that beats any books and TV program. Tor

I know those ikea plates they are to thin. I used two and glued them together. Normally you should cross the wood when you glue plates like this together so they do not bend as they dry out. However, when you making a flatbed table you do not have that option (as if you where making a top for a cylinderbed half the size). Add a couple of wooden stiffeners and some screws underneath, then it will do the trick. If you are going to make the stand legs underneath the table, do not use copper pipes or round tubes. Use square or rectangle steel tubes or profiled steel. You can also use wood, but remember these machines are heavy and they do not sit still. Its going a big motor underneath and the round legs will not take up the sideways force of it. You do not need a industrial look, but an industrial quality. If you do not have the option of welding the steel, you can bolt it together with screws. Good luck Tor

You have to call Steve first before posting, thats a universal (unwritten) law, always give the seller a change to make things right first. And do not worry, you will not find better customer service anywhere. Its a lot of things that can happen during transport. He will help you up and sewing, rest assure. Do not worry. Good luck Tor

Then you will do with what I call the upholstery class triple feed. You can get a new Chinese clone machine for around 1200 $. Check out or member dealers, give them a free call. (Banner top site, you can trust them) The best thing would be a cylinder bed, you can add a wooden table to it and it becomes a flat bed. Check the used for sale section. Good luck Tor

You will not find "specific numbers" in those post other than on some few heavy stitcher's. These are clone machines made in China. You will find the type of machine you need to sew leather in general; such as machine class and type of feed. Which brand who has these classes you got to find out yourself or ask in the forum. What kind of work are you going to do, thickness and thread class. And whats your budget. If you let us in on these questions, we will be able to point you in the right direction. When you look at the Internet you will find allot of cheap industrial machines everywhere. They are often cheap because they are not useful on leather. Those who are will achieve a higher marked price. Look for machine with triple feed (compound bottom, top and needle feed with alternating pressers) preferable a cylinder bed who takes heavy thread and are capable of sewing 3/8 of and inch or more. Triple feed classes with vertical rotating hook that sews up to 3/8" is called the upholstery class (threads up to tex 270). Classes who are able to sew more than a 1/2 " with heavy threads (more than tex 350) are called heavy stitcher's. These comes in different feeds, from bottom feed to triple feed. The triple feed heavy stitcher's are all expensive and fairly new. Good luck Tor

I am afraid one thousand dollars is not much when it comes to buy a triple feed industrial heavy stitcher new (or used). These are tools of the trade and starts on 2300 $ and up. The best thing you can do are looking in our "for sale" section or talk to members of this site. The member dealers (banners top site) often have used machines for sale too, give them a call (you can trust them) I will not recommend buying anything of the Ebay, even very experienced buyers can get burned there. You need to try the machine before buying, bring with you a work piece of what you are going to sew (and your budget) and visit a dealer. When you buy private you will not get support or warranty, the you must calculate this important things in price comparing. You can call the dealers on free numbers and ask what they have in stock, they may be able to help you financing too. Our member dealers Cobra, Cowboy, Techsew (and more) must answer to critics in this forum. They are all very helpful and gives help even if you have bought from someone else. The machines they sell are already set up to sew leather, when other machine often are not. It can be about 500 $ and up to set up a machine to sew leather (depended of brand and class). Often what seems to be the cheapest solution becomes the most expensive one. You are lucky to live in the USA where you have the option of several new Chinese clones leather machines. Do not buy several cheap machines that do not work and you cant get rid of. Get yourself a 441 clone right away, thats the best and cheapest solution in the long run. Good luck Tor

Check your threading, the thread has probably jumped out of the tension disk.

Hi, non of these machines are leather machines. The Adler class 37 are all tailor machines, the subclass -26 has alternating pressers and is made for sewing rubberized fabrics. The Singer 331 is bottom feed machine for fabrics too, and is not suitable for sewing leather. The Singer class 7-11 was made for sewing paper for the book industry. However the Singer class 7 is a very powerful machine, in the old days many of these was altered to leather machines. It was mostly the 7-33 and 31 (I believe) who has alternating pressers. They still have to big and clumsy foots to be any useful. The answer to your question, about what kind of machine you need to sew leather is answered in the pinned posts top of this forum. Good luck Tor

Hi, and what direction is that? As far as I can tell the Singer 153W-103 is a compound triple feed with a four motion bottom feed (feed dog), add a table and its a flatbed too. I do not know what thread sizes it takes. However, its all here in its user manual http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/153W101_W102_W103_154W101.pdf Tor

Hi, (I will repeat the above posts, so you understand the importance of it.) Do not let the foot stay down on the feed dog without material under it (second video), you wear out your feed dog. Your machine looks fine to me, we are talking about some minor operating errors here. Every time you start sewing hold down the thread for about 5 stitches, and when you are locking the stitches by sewing over them also. This is very important. If you keep on sewing like that the thread will bunch up in the shuttle house and you will knock the machine off timing. You start the seam by sewing two stitches in reverse and lock the stitches by sewing over them (or turn the work piece around). At the end of the seam you do the same thing but maybe more than two stitches. (or finishing your seam by hand, search the forum for technique). Remember to hold down the thread (both threads) when starting and finishing the seam. Good luck. Tor

Wiz is right, you must hold your thread tight with your left hand when you start sewing or you get a backlash.

Hello Avimeso, sorry for late replay. I see you have fitted the harness foot, and now your machine will not sew. I do not think thats related to the foot in anyway. However, we must find its last working configuration. Did your machine sew before you changed thread and foot? You are telling it has been to service in a Dürkopp Adler workshop, I assume it worked as it should when you got it back? I also assumes this is a new machine to you? If I am right about this it could be a minor fault. This is a straight forward and simple machine, not much that could go wrong. Anyway, put the roller foot back and check your threading. This machine threads just like any other Adler 205 or 204 machines, you can download a manual on a similar class like the 205-370 and check that you have threaded your machine right http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/Support/downloads/index.html?action=search&prop0=%2Fcommons%2Fdownload%2Fpublic%2F205-370%2F&prop1= Or check the youtube video of the Cobra 4 or Cowboy 441 clone machines that threads the same way .Make sure you use a new right size needle and if its pushed all the way up in the needle bar. And if its turned the right way (needle scarf to the right). The thread has to be left twisted, for the size tkt 12 you can use from 180 to 200 Nm needle size. I use mostly polyester threads, but I see no reason yours should not work as long as its left twisted. If all above is Ok and it still will not sew you must check the hook needle timing. But first check all the above and post back to me. Good luck Tor

Use a fine ceramic grind stone after the file and do not make the hook tip any shorter. The fine ceramic stone will give it a fine polished surface. To coarse and it might fry the thread. Tor

You cannot use Oil. No wonder it will not sew if you use white sewing machine oil, the thread will stick to the metal and be unable to form a loop; the result is skipping stitches. You must use thread lube like PCOX told you above, thats not oil. On polyester and bonded nylon you can use silicone thread lube too cool the needle. These old machine was built when most used linen thread and it is the best thing you can feed them. Does it use the 328 needle system or a similar Singer system, I believe they use a shorter needle than the 441 machines do (794); they do not create that much heat. Thread lube might not be necessary with polyester, you can also use prelubed thread. You must also remember that sewing machine thread is fresh ware, you cannot take any old thread and expect it to work well. It dries out and becomes full of dust particles when it is stored unprotected. You can spray old thread cones with Fibings liquid glycerin saddle soap, it will restore some of its moister. Good luck Tor

Treadle or hand crank might be a option on all sewing machines. I do not think you will not find any triple-feed cylinder-beds with hand crank as standard. You might find one with a treadle, but they had electrical motors when the first triple feed machines came on the marked. Do you look for a old machine machine because you want a treadle/hand crank or because of your budget? Tor

Thanks, to bad. The Adler's I have will not burn before 3600 degree Celsius. I hope you find something else. Tor

The shuttle you can use are made by Japanese Hirose, Italian Cereliani and in by the Chinese. As Darren said you can use the DD1 closed type or the open type DD1 OP2 (same type as you have). https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Singer45KSewingMachineParts I do not know if its necessary to change yours, its hard to tell by the picture. One thing, what kind of oil are you using in your lube pot? Regular oil will make your thread stick to the metal and it will not make thread loops. I hope you have tried it without oil?, its maybe a stupid question. Nevertheless, I have tried regular leather oil and it did not work, my machine skipped stitches all the time because the thread sticked to the metal. Tor

Among the old gray Pfaff machines the 345 cyl. bed with vertical hook is the nearest machine to the 1245. The old 335 have a small arm with horizontal hook and will not take heavy thread. The new 335 however, comes in a "heavy" subclass. The Pfaff 345 has a thicker arm but they do not make it anymore. Its hard to replace a 1245, you can look for a *DA 269-373 (* Dürkopp Adler). They have a big arm vertical hook and are in the same duty ranking as the 1245. Newer *DA machines who ends on 69 (triple feed cyl bed) will of course do the job, also the older 169 will do. The *DA 69 is to light, small arm , small bobbin like the old Pfaff 335. You could also look in too newer Chinese clone machines of these classes like Wiz suggests. However, the 1245 sets a high standard and will be expensive to match. Good luck Tor

My Adler 5-27 (the forerunner of the class 105) sews 15 mm of material with a 328 needle system. It has bottom feed and a spring loaded jump-foot like the Adler 105-8. I used this machine for many years, it was never a problem with it and it have a beautiful stitch. My rebuilt 105-25 MO (who now is a regular 105-25) has a foot lift of 19 mm (with a smooth feeding foot) and will sew about the same (as the cl.5-27) with out problem. The Kochs Adler company did not brag about numbers on what a machine managed once (like I do, and several with me do). They was always on the safe side and built machine that could do more than needed. I do not want to stand idle and look at a fine piece of machinery die, most of the Europeans who have these machine will not part with them. Ask my US/ Belgium friend the "leatherguru", he has a impressive machine park but still love his Adler 105. The reason there are many MO types of machines out there for sale, is because they was used in shoe factories and they are now outdated. Or nobody produce shoes in the western world anymore. The only thing you will be able to break on these machines are the shuttle, you can get them aftermarket. Seriously, I would pay more for a Adler 105 than a Chinese bottom feed. This machine climbs good too, its a double feed. When mine is ready I will upload a video of it sewing, thats worth more than thousand words. (its not going to happen to morrow, this is a between other duties project) Thanks Tor

All of the heavy stitcher are very similar, the TSC 441 plate and dog fit the 105-25. However, they cannot be used because of the 105-25 do not have needle feed. The plate and feed dog from the Juki TSH 411 (bottom feed) might be a match. The Japanese did exactly the same as the Chinese do now when they started to make sewing machines; copied European and US machines. I tried my 441 plate (and feed dog) on the 105 and the needle hit exactly in the needle hole of the 441 feed dog. On the picture you see a couple of my Adler 5 plates (the forerunner of the 105), this is the same plate as the 105-25 plate (100% fit with the same part number too, they only added a couple of zeros in the front). So I guess there will be Singer 45 K plates who fits too. I am not sure of the Adler 205-25 plate will fit, I have never tried. Sieck.de in Germany might have a plate and feed dog for it, be prepared to pay for it. The plates on the picture is part of a saddler's attachment pack for my Adler cl. 5-27. I do not know if I sell it or not, but the plates will follow the machine either way. Tor

Hi, as Bob told you before this is a 105-25 Mo version and it has top feed only in its current state. You can change needle plate and add a feed dog and you will have a 105-25. The 105-25 has bottom feed and top feed, but the feeds are not combined. Its made for ruffing work, when you need a different stitch length on top and bottom. The top feed is adjusted on the top back side of the machine and the bottom feed on the stitch regulator, you have to fine tune these two to have the same feeding length top and bottom. As for the reverse, you must take of the stitch regulator locking plate (remove two screws on the plate with thumb screw on, behind the stitch regulator handle). You can change this for a 105-25 or 105-64 locking plate ( I think the -64 is the only one they sell parts for anymore) or use a hack saw and alter it (aluminum). When the plate is off (or altered) you can move the stitch regulator in reverse and the bottom feeds reverse works. To use this machine with reverse you must set the top feed in off position, the reverse do not work when the top feed is engaged. It can be a challenge to get hold of a needle plate and feed dog for it, I do not think Dürkopp Adler (DA) sells part for it anymore. However, you can ask Thomas Brinkhoff (head of DA spare parts) in his blog " the world of Dürkopp Adler spare part business" http://sew24.blogspot.no/ he knows. You can also download old leaflet and manuals for the class 105 on this site. Used, the subclass 105-64 is priced higher than the -25 (the -64 has bottom and needle feed). I have both sub classes and personally I think the -25 is a better leather machine, because it climbs much better. The -64 is only good on flat stuff. There was a video of the 105-25 on you tube but I cannot find it anymore. If you get hold of a needle plate and feed dog for it it will be a pretty good machine. Good luck. Tor

Nice job, Is it a speed reducer inside that belt cover? If you need something smaller, some of these might fit or could be altered to fit. http://www.kwokhing.com/accessory/ I belive they are made of plastic , just cut and glue/weld. I do not think they are expensive Looking good that stand. Tor

Hello Darren, yes I am sure of it. Tor

You are welcome, I think Utrecht is the nicest city in Holland. Both Amsterdam and Rotterdam are to big and have to much crime. Nice binding job there. Tor

Peter, the service manual for the 205-370 and for the 205-64 is on DA`site http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205/s_204_gb.pdf http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205-370/s_204_370.pdf Maybe you knew that? and here http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html Nice handle attachment for the 370 by the way http://sew24.blogspot.no/2012/09/hochwertige-taschengriffe-aus-leder.html