katsass

As usual I agree with Dwight, however, there may also be another possibility. You may have set up the holster with the shooter riding too high above the belt line. With too much of the gun above he belt line, the weight of the gun, especially when loaded, will tend to lean out away from he body. Just a thought, but without pics, it's difficult to tell. In general, the avenger style rides nice and tight to the body. Mike.

FWIW from the old grump; you done good, very good --- except, as said, the location of the maker's mark (IMO). As to that, I/m very much a minimalist, my mark usually being quite inconspicuous --- and much less than most .... but, (I believe) unique.and recognizable. (pic) Mike

Well, here's a pic of a 'matched' pair of holsters I did (matched as well as I could, anyway), Left one for strong side draw, and the right one is for cross draw --- both for replica Single action Army wheelguns. The cross draw was unfinished at the time the pic was taken. Mike

Yes Renee, that is one of the big pay-backs for using the stuff. Waaay back (40+ years ago when Tandy was pretty good), I ran out of Tandy's 'Neet Sheen', and the closest store was about 40 miles away over the mountain. Ma Kat was doing the kitchen floor with the M&G and it looked almost the same as the Tandy stuff. Got to reading and found that both are acrylic finishes (M&G has some additives but after testing a bit I found that they didn't hurt a thing) so I figured that I'd give it a go. Still using it and haven't looked back. As said earlier, any mechanical application of an acrylic finish will mess with water based dyes, but with the solvent based ones, you can just dampen a soft cloth with the stuff (mixed 50/50 with water) and wipe it on. It's very forgiving that way. As with most finishes, moderation is always best. Mike

Yep --- a light coat. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; you've already read about deglazers and going to solvent or oil dyes, so my comment goes to the application of your finish. ESPECIALLY with water based dyes, if you apply your acrylic finish (Resolene or Super Sheen) with a dauber, foam brush or a damp rag, you WILL lift some of the dye, and/or move it around 'till you have a mess.. If you dilute the Super Sheen 50/50 with water and apply with an old Windex pump sprayer, you will find that you pretty much solve that problem. I personally use an airbrush now, but the pump sprayer works well. Just stay back off the project and allow it to sort of 'mist' on to the leather. Two coats are generally plenty. If a run or drip shows up, just gently wipe with a finger. Clean the sprayer with clear water. I know this works well with Super Sheen but I have never tried it with Resolene --- but I suspect that it will also go through the pump thing. I personally don't use either anymore. Been using 'Mop and Glo' (yep, the floor stuff) for over 40 years on my holsters, followed by a rubbed in coat of Kiwi neutral polish buffed out and have never had a problem. Hope this gives you a hand. Mike

Well Zonker, I'd suggest the double loop for that application. However, take a look at "Kingsmere Crafts" (google it) and check their index (they show a pot-load of stuff) for Mexican round lacing. They show a full step by step tutorial on how to do it and may show how to go round a tight corner like that with that style of lacing. Dave Cole (DCKnives) used it a lot on his knife sheaths and they looked very good. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I agree with Dwight., bag coat is designed for softer, more malleable leathers. It's designed to flex. Holsters shouldn't do much flexing at all. I also use an acrylic finish on my holsters, followed by a light coat of Kiwi neutral wax, buffed out. The acrylics will penetrate and assist in firming to a degree. The only things I do differently is that I don't care for Resolene so I use another product, but do dilute my finish 50/50 with water. I also don't brush it on, but use an airbrush to apply it. Waaay back (before I could afford an air compressor) I used an old Windex pump sprayer to apply the stuff. Just stay way back off the project and let the stuff 'mist' on. Rinse the sprayer with clear water. Mike

FWIW from the grumpy old guy; Mixing water into Fiebing's dye will only make one hell of a mess. If you are going to dilute the stuff use denatured alcohol. I dilute most all Fiebing's dye all the way from a one to one (50/50) mix down to a 30 to one ratio of denatured alcohol to dye ... but always with DA. I don't know what part of the country you're from, but the dye isn't dry as fast as you think, even where I live in the desert, but once it hits the leather --- it's there, immediately and permanently. There is nothing you can do to slow that process to my knowledge. However, it actually takes a while to fully dry, I wait at least overnight prior to applying a finish just to be sure.. It ain't a paint that can (sometimes) be wiped off an object, including your hands. Wear gloves. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; Back when --- I found that if I deglazed, then dyed prior to assembly, things worked a whole bunch better --- with Fiebing's Pro Oil dye. With black especially, I used to deglaze, dye, buff the snot out of the stuff, then redye and buff again as necessary, then go to assembly. Especially with black, but also with other colors, when applying any finish, the use of daubers, rags, brushes etc. seemed to want to do things I didn't like. An old Windex spray bottle and thinned acrylic finishes (NeatSheen, SuperSheen) seemed to solve that problem . I now use an airbrush to apply all finishes. For black, it's vinegaroon only --- now. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; Here's a holster which is a copy of a 100 year old one pictured in "Packing Iron". I made the pattern from looking at the picture in the book and modifying to fit a Super Blackhawk, and, for the first time in a long time, I didn't toss the pattern after making it.. If interested contact me. But remember, it a BIG honking holster for a big honking shooter. Mike

FWIW from the grumpy old guy; I gotta agree with you. I make most all of my holsters from double layers of good shoulder leather. My reasoning is that with the two grain layers (where the firmness and rigidity are created when forming) you get a much firmer 'set' to your wet molding, that will last substantially longer than a single thickness of leather of equal weight, you also get a nice smooth interior to the rig. NOW, my experience with that sort of shooting is rather limited to (current) steel challenge shooting and (MUCH) earlier --- the fast draw stuff with the likes and times of Thell Reed and Arvo Ojala, (hell, I expect some of you younger guys may have to Google those names) so I can't speak much to the mounted shooting game, BUT, a well made,all leather holster works and lasts very well in the two areas I'm familiar with. I do know that some of the fast draw games require steel to protect in the case of a little bit too much of an itchy trigger finger. That said, for those games, the steel may protect from a squib or 'wax' load --- but won't do much in the way of protecting one from a standard .44-40, .44 Special, or .45 Colt load. JMHO. Mike .

From the grumpy old guy; ditto on what Shooter says, bellies are just not suitable for holster work. I make almost all of my holsters from doubled up 4/5oz or a combination of 4/5 and 5/6oz shoulder --- only. It makes all of my stuff lined and, most important (to me) it gives me two grain layers in the holster, which produces a much firmer molded product (IMO). Bellies will 'wilt' and not hold wet molding much at all. Mike

Tom, from the grumpy old guy; 'you done good!' I'm very much a traditionalist in my holster design and work, and I LIKE this one ---- a lot. Mike.

Chavez, Sorry that I failed to notice that you reside in the U.K. Had I been a bit more observant, I would have suggested just what northmount suggested. Also, thanks for the compliment. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I think (maybe) that the problem you are having is that the base used when setting that snap just wasn't firm enough. The little 'anvils' supplied for setting just aren't enough IMO. I use an 8"x8" piece of 1/4" steel as a base, with the anvil on top of that only for the domed side. No anvil for the male piece. Mike

Chavez, Chuck covered it well. You can get a GOOD mask at Home Depot, or Lowes and/or OSH (most likely other too) for around $25 or so. A he said, make sure it's rated for chemical odor/solvent protection. My all-purpose shop is in a little 10'x12' building, and, especially in winter, is closed up pretty well. I ALWAYS use the mask when using the airbrush to apply dyes. The fumes will do nasty things to you. Ask me how I found that, out long ago. Mike

You might try doubling up some 2/3oz. That should make a pretty decent wrist band. Mike

Particle; One problem that has occurred infrequently to me, but that HAS reared it's ugly head once in a while, is that a customer may want a certain cant on the holster BUT that cant does not fit the customer. In other words, with the holster riding as the customer THINKS he wants it, his physical ergo-dynamics (how's that for a fancy word?) cause him to actually jamb the gun in the holster as he attempts to draw. The angle of his arm movement doesn't fit the angle of the holster. Just a thought. Mike

Well, I don't know beans about crystals, sounds like they are kind of dinky things, but I have attached obsidian to leather with good succes. I do, however, cut out an area of the leather, attach a backing of 1/32" birch plywood under the cut-out and epoxy the stone in place to the backing. I then line the entire item with thinner leather, covering the back side of the birch plywood to finish. Example. Mike

I don't. Mike

Well, the grumpy old katsass is a southpaw too. As to a stitching gouge, I just keep it in the left (proper) hand, face the butt of the handle away from me, and 'draw' the gouge away from my body, rather than towards myself. As to stitching, I don't use a pony nor a horse. I work at punching my holes carefully prior to stitching, then sit and watch Nat Geo, The History Chanel, etc and go to sticking needles in the ity-bitty holes, from the outer (front) side first. I just use shears as they come --- in my left hand. Back some years ago, as a LEO firearms instructor, I taught other instructors how to handle a semi-auto handgun as a southpaw should (or can) do, without swapping the shooter to the right hand as most instructors did (and do) to this day. This, in order for them to try to teach lefty's how they can do things --- quicker, in a down and dirty situation. Most of those right-handers swore that it was impossible for them to accomplish some of the most simple actions left-handed, and it was as much fun to watch them, as it would have been to watch a penguin try to peel a banana. Pretty frustrating to them. I then told them that lefty's have been able to adapt, overcome and persevere this sort of thing all of their lives --- and now they have just a little bit of understanding of what we go through. For those of you that understand such things, I confounded my first competition rifle coach back in '63 -'64 during the Pac-Fleet championships, by being able to load the old M-1 Garand rifle with my left hand as fast, or faster, than many right-handers. AND --- no 'M-1 thumb' !!!!. Mike P..S. .It's a total myth that a lefty will get hit by their own hot brass from firing an M-1 Garand, M-1 or M-2 Carbine, an M-3 Grease Gun or even a Thompson SMG.

From the old grumpy guy; IMO cotton is not strong enough nor is it nearly as resistant to moisture, oils etc., as is linen. In other words, it'll either wear through or rot pretty darned quickly, if it doesn't break while stitching with it. Mike

I believe that the Taurus should work for molding a holster for the M-66. The Ruger won't work for either --- too much difference in their dimensions I believe. Mike