katsass

FWIW from the old grump; I say it was very close to Fiebing's 'Cordovan' dye. Mahogany mat be too red. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; When you use this sort of leather on something (like a wallet) that is meant to bend of fold, the scales will try to open up, that's why I'll only use it and/or snake skin, as an inlay. Those 'scales' are under tension when folded, and since the critter is deceased (dead, you know) the natural attaching membranes are gone. When used as an inlay, I use them only on flat, or only slighly curved surfaces, Dave Cole (IMO the master of inlay, and may he RIP) always used a number of coats of Super Sheen on that portion of his work to make sure that the scales don't lift. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; I usually lay my shooter with the sights centered on the crease line of a cheap manila folder, lay it over on it's side and make a trace of the gun in pencil. I then determine the max width of the shooter in the area above the trigger guard (diameter of the cylinder on a wheelgun) and divide that in half. I add the thickness of the leather being used to that figure and make my stitch line that distance from my outline drawing. I ensure that I keep to that distance pretty closely at the front of the trigger guard and frame of the gun. Some guns like the Ruger Super Blackhawk have such a massive frame that I will add a bit to the measurement, but I don't make too many of those and most holsters don't need that addition. On a speed rig (such as for the 'Iron Challenge') I will make the rig a little closer then add a fairly thick welt such as the one pictured. This has worked for me for more years than I care to think about. Of course some have said that I'm so old that when I was born, the Dead Sea was only a little bit sick, Mike P.S. I just stuff the shooter down in a plastic freezer bag when wet molding a holster --- no moisture touches the gun, but I still wipe it down with an oiled rag afterwords.

FWIW from the grump; I'll defer to Rob on the machine stitching since I don't know beans about that. I hand stitch everything I do and use either 5 cord or 7 cord waxed linen for stitching, depending more on the size of the rig (and shooter) than anything else. Mike

From the old grumpy guy; Not bad for your first wheelgun rig, but I think that you could use more leather out there on the belt loops, they should lay more or less flat on the guy's body. Down the road you might try out the 'enhanced' pancake style designed by LOBO Gunleather. Ray really did his research and development on this design, so if you use it give him credit. It has to be the best mod to the original pancake I've ever seen, and overcomes the one weakness of the original, IMO. A pic of my first holster in that style, made for a little SIG.. It's a bit more work, but works out much beter over time.Mike

From the old grump; Inlay leathers are generally pretty thin, so they need to be backed up with some heavier leather. I make most all of my holsters from two layers of lighter leather than is normally used. They are bonded together on their flesh sides, producing the equivalent weight of a single thickness of heavier leather. I do this for a variety of reasons.For inlays, I cut the area out and tack the inlay to the inside of the top piece (the outer shell) with just a few spots of contact cement, then stitch the inlay down . That piece is then bonded (glued) to the inner shell. The inlay is thus 'sandwiched' between the two layers After that,.things proceed as normal, except that all edges must be stitched. Mike NOTE: Draw your inlay pattern on your cutting pattern and mark it prior to cutting. You'll play hell trying to align it if drawn separately.

From the old grump; looks like you done good, as long as those studs don't have any metal going all the way through to rub on the shooter. Mike

From the old grump; Very nice work. I think that you would not do yourself any favors using belly leather for your holsters however --- the temper just isn't there. Mike

From the old grump; I've done a few, so here are a few ideas I came up with. Mike; Karung Snake in a transport holster for a Ruger Mk I: Ostrich Shin leather in a 1911 'Wild Bunch' style: An agate arrowhead in a branded 'Tom Threeperson' style holster for a S&W K frame.

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; My first suggestion for anyone wanting to build holsters ---get the book by Al Stohlman on "How To Make Holsters". It's about $10/$12, depending on where you get it. It'll answer most all of your questions, and some you didn't know you had. Mine is over 50 years old, and I still look at it now and then. I think it even has a pattern for a Ruger Single Six in it --- western style. I use a welt now and then, but don't think one is generally necessary for your Ruger. For retention you can use a stud (like older military rigs) and strap, or even a simple thong set up. As to lining, that's a personal decision, just don't use any suede type stuff. A smooth lining is best IMO. I build almost all of my holsters from two layers of lighter leather than is generally used --- for various reasons --- so most all of my stuff comes out (in essence) lined. Here's a pic of an embellished 'Threeperson" style holster that is using a thong for security. Mike

Sorry, disregard my previous post. I misread your post (wrong glasses). Particle has it down well. I use two layers of leather in almost all of my holsters, and only use a welt in certain wheelguns such as the Ruger Super Blackhawk and sometimes L frame S&W's, but the retention is created by good hand molding on heavy enough leather as well as proper drying of the holster allowing for solid firmness and rigidity.. Mike.

From the old grump; I don't make many holsters with a safety strap, but here is a picture of some from an old Smith & Wesson catalog that will give you an idea. Mike

Rubbing alcohol isn't good for diluting dye --- denatured alcohol is the stuff to use. On a (seldom) occasion I'll use rubbing alcohol to finish mold a holster, but only in an emergency. It'll set the leather --- hard, and you need to add more than a normal amount of neatsfoot oil after. Mike

Well, I run a one-man place, do only custom stuff and don't carry any stock pieces, so my customers have to wait anyhoo. Also, I'm old and grumpy so nobody expects an old fart to ANYTHING in a hurry --- and I may just decide to go fishing now and then. Mike

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words. Generally my stuff has few 'embellishments' so this is a departure. Mike

OK, as I said I use a real cheap airbrush --- very limit6ed adjustability, (Harbor Freight's 'quick change' type @ around $6.00 or $7.00) and adjust for a good smooth flow.Generally I stay about a foot or a little more away from the project being shot. Also, I spray all parts prior to assembly, allow to dry, then shoot a light coat of neatsfoot oil and allow another 24 hours prior to doing anything else, such as gluing and stitching. I apply a finish after wet molding. Mike P.S. I purchase ALL of my supplies ONLY from Springfield Leather. I call, then and generally discuss any special problems I may have and they seem to have all the answers and/or solutions.

FWIW from the old grump; I use Fiebing's pro oil dyes mostly, applied with a very cheap airbrush. I dilute the dye 50/50 with denatured alcohol. True, there is overspray, but to me it's negligible. Just a few passes and I have an even color --- or I can easily work it to produce highlights or a 'sunburst' or 'faded' effect. A couple of examples. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; I use Fiebing's Pro oil dyes mostly, but also some of their spirit dyes. I start by diluting them 50/50 with denatured alcohol. I use the least expensive airbrush (quick change airbrush @ about $6.00) that Harbor Freight makes, along with their smallest airbrush compressor (total, with airbrush, of less than $70.00 with the omnipresent 20% coupon) to apply my dyes in a uniform manner. Fiebings Dark Brown and Med Brown dyes have some red in them as they come, so for a more 'true' brown I use either their Walnut or Chocolate browns. I wouldn't use any water on my leather prior to using a solvent based dye of any sort, but I do shoot a light shot of neatsfoot oil after the dye has dried. I shoot all parts prior to assembly, and since I make holsters primarily, and wet mold them, I have found that the use of any water based dyes is just not compatible with my construction techniques. Mike P.S. I wait about long enough to consume an adult beverage between coats of dye.

From the grumpy old guy; you done good. Mike

Ditto as to what Twin Oaks said --- but it initially really looked like a rig for a wheelgun. Mike

From the old grump; On the other side of the fence --- boning and molding be two different things IMO. I hand mold all my holsters WITHOUT that excellent boning that (IMO) Shooter, Twin Oaks and Lobo do properly, and so many do excessively. My stuff is made differently (some say overly made) and in a way that actually precludes any boning at all. My holsters do, however, give a nice little 'snap' or 'thuck' sound when the gun is seated therein. A hand-molded 'Avenger' style done a while ago. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; First off, to me (and I just may be getting old) something just doesn't look quite right with the outline of the gun -- in the trigger guard area, but I 'spect that that's a design for a pancake holster for a wheelgun of some kind. Not being able to tell what shooter that's supposed to be for, all I can say for sure is that it'll be way too tight around the cylinder and frame area to fit the gun, and most likely, around the front sight area will also be a problem as well as being a bit too short at the muzzle --- IF that outer line is supposed to be the stitch line.. The retention strap (if that's what that long thing is) is on the wrong (front) piece of the holster, and needs to (most likely) be set forward a bit to fit behind the hammer.. Also, if those are marks for belt slots, I'd move them in a bit, and put a bit more leather between them and the toe of the thing. Now that's all just a guess or two from having made a few pancake holsters for some wheelguns over the years, and JMHO is, that as it stands, it ain't gonna work. Mike

You might want to go to "kingsmerecrafts.com". That site has 117 pages of all kinds of leather working ideas and procedures --- including 'how to' lace, with diagrams (try pages 96-97). Mike

FWIW from the grumpy old guy; It sounds as though you want to glue the entire inlay to the front piece. I generally use very little cement and just in a few places to hold the inlay in place while stitching it to the front piece. Just a few small spots around the perimeter do fine --- and no excess to worry about. A sample. Mike

I use an old Osborne awl that has a blade a little less than 1/8" wide and about 1 1/4" long. Here's a closer pic of the same rig. Mike