katsass

FWIW from old grumpy guy; I've used Fiebing's Pro Oil dye on most of my holsters. I cut, dye --- allow 24 hrs to dry, assemble and stitch, mold, then add a finish. I've never had the color change when wet molding after stitching the thing up, except for that period that the leather remains wet while drying. The application of neatsfoot oil WILL darken the color. Mike

A question from the old grumpy guy; why does the muzzle end of the holster widen out so much? Mike

Well, I definitely belong in the over 60 club, been there for quite a while, and found some time ago that I can live without sex --- but not without my glasses. Mike

stelmaker; the burned stuff is what is used --- most of the burning is from wax and oil applied to the stuff to keep it from rusting, not the steel itself, AND, that hot bit of fire is exactly why Ma Kat won't allow me to play in her kitchen. Mike

Well, you don't need a torch, the stuff will come off the steel wool just fine over a burner on a gas stove --- electric won't work too well though. I use the torch 'cause Ma Kat won't let me do it in the house Mike

OK girl, I'll give it a go, starting at the front: First off, I pick up a gallon of the cheapest white vinegar I can find. I then get a pac of 0000 sized steel wool pads. I use a propane torch to burn them to remove all wax and oil (to allow quicker chemical activity) then cut about 4 pads into strips just wide enough to squeeze through the skinny neck of the plastic jug of vinegar. Remove the top of the jug, stuff that steel wool down in the jug and cover the open mouth with cheese cloth (to allow gas to escape, if not, your jug may well overflow or POP). Forget it for about two -- maybe three --- weeks in a warm area. Shake the jug and stuff another couple of burnt pads into the jug and wait another week or so. Strain the stuff through cheese cloth into a glass or plastic container, then return to the original jug --- replace the cap that you (by now) have lost. You now have made ferric acetate (or ferrous acetate, one or the other ---never was too good in chemistry) Now, I primarily make holsters and generally dye prior to assembly, as I'm not too sure what the stuff will do to my stitching. I use a 2 qt glass casserole dish and fill it at least 1/2 full of the 'roon'. Immerse the cut pieces in the stuff until totally soaked through. I wear nitrile gloves --- not that the stuff may hurt me, but that it may turn my hands a nice walnut color --- for a substantial period of time. After about two - three minutes I pull it out and look, if not dark enough - back into the stuff. Warmer temperatures assist in the chemical reaction which turns the leather black. When happy with your leather, pull it out and rinse well with clear water and then allow to dry. When thoroughly dry, apply a coat of neatsfoot oil. The color will really pop out (generally). I usually test a piece of the leather I'm using on my project, and if it doesn't seem dark enough, I'll soak the thing in STRONG tea for a bit then rinse it off with water prior to dunking in the 'roon'. I understand that a dauber can be used to apply the stuff, but have never done so. When, after assembly, I am ready to wet form the holster, I soak the thing pretty well in a large container (usually the kitchen sink, which doesn't always make Ma Kat too happy) and find that the leather doesn't absorb the water quite as quickly as un-'rooned' leather, then mold as normal. When dry I apply another light coat of neatsfoot oil, allow to settle out then finish. I always (now) do this in an area that will not be stained if I spill, drip, or dump the 'roon' accidentally. Ma Kat is emphatic that the use of 'roon' should not be done in her kitchen. Hope this helps a bit. Mike'''

Thanks Twin Oaks, I see your point. I actuality I have only built one true IWB holster in the last 15 or so years. That one was a very simple light weight pouch with a single clip for hanging on the belt. It was for a personal friend and retired LEO that was rather rotund, and even with his 'chubbies' the mouth never really collapsed --- squish a little yes, but he still had little problem re-holstering. BUT as you say also --- the customer is (almost) always right. Along those lines, I have made a few IWB (inside the BELT) holsters for off duty and concealed carry for LEO's (mainly). These are not much more than a slightly re-designed standard belt pouch with the exception being that a right-hand model is actually left-hand appearing --- the integral belt loop is on the outside. When worn, if the toe of it seen, it appears to be nothing more than the omnipresent cell phone holster. NOW --- I'll quit there, I don't want to get going on those damned cell phones. I will say that I have one, I pay $20 every 90 days to be able to use it --- I have over $300 in available time accrued from lack of use. Haven't found enough of an emergency to use the damned thing. Mike

FWIW; I load my pics onto Photobucket, then when I want to add one to something like this forum I bring up that pic, punch the 'Image' indicator and 'paste' it into the forum. Mike

Good morning from a grumpy old guy that has butchered a few cow skins over the years. As Twin Oaks mentioned, tools can run the gamut in price and quality. I have found that certain tools from Harbor Freight even can and do a great job, although they aren't specifically meant for leather work. Most of us are stuck (intentionally) in a narrow line of work --- probably because of our specific interests and partly (in my case) because I don't want to become a 'Jack of all trades, but master of none' ---- not that I'm a master. Take a look at the works of the many fine craftsmen that frequent this forum, they'll assist you in any area that you decide to work in, from watchbands to moccasins, so to speak. Welcome. Mike

From the old and grumpy guy: Thank you, I do appreciate the compliments, however you may consider that I have been making holsters for quite a few years and the simple odds are that some of them would come out pretty well. I have observed, over time, that one thing seems to be a truth. That is that a lot of shooters (including LEO's) love 'gimmicks', and a lot of the newer holster designs are 'gimmicky' in my eyes. I've seen new designs show up, sell like hotcakes then disappear from the scene. I'm very much a traditionalist in my design and work. I have made some of the newer designs and just a few (IMO) are pretty good. Two that pop out at me are Ray's (Lobo Gunleather) enhanced pancake and avenger styles, while others just don't appear anymore practical than older designs. One of the negative (IMO) design aspects that has appeared is the holster mouth reinforcing. In all my years I have never seen a well made and cared for holster collapse from use. If an empty one hit the floor of the barn and had a couple of 100# sacks of grain, or a couple of bales of hay land on it, it probably would flatten out, but in everyday use --- never. The only positive aspect that I see of the reinforcing is that it provides a palette for enhanced aesthetics by the addition of a contrasting color, or an exotic hide. My advice would be to experiment as much as you want, but keep a grasp on practicality, understand why (and if) the change is actually better than the more traditional. Remember that those traditional designs have stood the test of time, and are still around. Some of the most versatile are the Tom Threeperson style, the Mexican Loop, and the common pouch. With them you can fit damned near all handguns made, and make them suitable for many methods of carry. JMHO Enjoy what to are doing and keep it up. Mike

OK Michael; the one thing I see as a possible problem is that for the system to work well is that it requires precision measuring as well as very precision cutting of the position of the 'tabs'. I believe that the tabs are designed to fit exactly between the cartridges. A miss-step in cutting or a measurement will make the loop either too loose or too tight -- as will variations in the thickness of the leather. To me it doesn't seem to provide for any increased security over the simpler method I generally use, as the back side of the cartridge is not seated on solid leather, as is the method I use. JMHO Mike P.S. Here is a pic of a rig I made about 35 years ago -- the back side of the belt can be seen showing the loops. They don't seem to be too objectionable. Mike

FWIW from the grump; Every once in a while I run across a piece of leather with an exceptionally furry, nay, HAIRY flesh side. I have found that by using my bench mounted, 6" wide belt sander, with a worn 100 grit belt on it I quickly end with a surface that is well prepped for glue. I can use some pieces of leather with a good looking surface which otherwise I would pass up. Since I primarily make holsters from two layers of leather bonded together on their flesh sides, this can result in a substantial cost saving. It should work on elephant without much trouble. For an even removal, back your piece of leather with a block of wood. Mike

For Twin Oaks; frankly, I have never had a comeback on any of these I've done. I guess that the trick (if there is one) is to be sure that when pulling that wet strip through to make your loop, you pull it straight. You can 'walk' it some to get it where you want, but you need it to have even tension on the top and bottom of the loop around the cartridge, AND going on to the next one. Also you have to be careful not to pull so hard as to narrow the 3/4" strip. I use 4/5 oz for my loops, wet down well , but not so wet as to have it wet noodle like, and work fairly quickly as it tend to loose moisture the longer the strip is worked. Seems like they have been doing it this way for over 100 years --- and samples are still intact. Mike P.S. For mlapaglia; I still don't know what the hell you are talking about --- never seen anything similar, BUT I don't proclaim to be an "EXPERT" --- an 'EX', a has-been combined with a "SPURT", a drip under pressure. Mike P.P.S. You can see why I don't stitch those beggars, waaaay too time consuming. It would take me as long, or longer to hand stitch each loop in place as it did to hand stitch the whole damned rig

From the grumpy old guy; If it is a double thick trousers belt, my most common one has been about 38". If a wide gun belt, made to wear over the normal trousers belt it would be around 42". Mike

FWIW from the grump; I don't stitch my loops, I use the second method you describe, AND, don't know what the hell you are talking about on the third. I use a GOOD 3/4" bag punch to make the cut-out for each loop --- 3/4" apart. Run the loop leather (4/5 oz) up, make a loop, and back through the same hole --- on to the next. Mike A sample --- These are .44 mag.

Well, I wasn't sure that the pics went through --- photobucket jammed up on me, and I don't see them now. Have fun with your branding. Mike

Sylvia, thanks for the picture. That's funny, as your brother and I are only a few years apart. Back then the saying 'it's the cat's ass' was fairly common, but in time it faded away. I think our name and logo came form the saying and the fact that we (Ma and I) raised Siamese cats back then. Mike.

From the grumpy old guy; Overall, it looks damned good for your first. As Haystacker says, that stitch line needs to improve, but, so does your overall stitching. Remember that good stitching takes time, effort and concentration. Each single stitch must be done exactly --- in every way --- as the one that precedes it. JMHO Mike

I'm pretty sure that they use one of the lacquers formulated for leather. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; First off I don't have a suggestion as to how the hell you are going to strip that stuff off of your boots, BUT, saying that you do get that done, the next step is to slow down. First you say that you applied a light coat of neatsfoot oil. 'Light' is a pretty subjective term, so we don't really know how much was applied. That stuff doesn't dry per se, it infiltrates and absorbs into the leather fibers until an equilibrium is reached. That can easily take 24 hours or more in a warm, dry climate. Then you applied two coats of dye (which reacted with the oil) with a drying time of 2 hours each. When dying I allow 24 hours for drying, the stuff may feel dry, but it ain't completely dry in a couple of hours --- even out where I live in the desert. As to buffing, it takes a LOT of buffing to pick up the surface particles of pigment remaining from black dye --- after the dye is dry. Then you applied four coats of an acrylic sealer that just picked up all of the loose stuff from leather that wasn't ready for it, --- and, four coats, when dry, would most likely have cracked at the instep of the boots. Then you added shoe polish. Personally, I don't think that I would have used any of that neatsfoot or satin sheen stuff. My suggestion would be to (once they are cleaned of all that stuff) is to dye them --- once, allow to dry thoroughly, buff well, then use your polish. OR, you could have done as was done back in my time by the Marine Corps. Back when I was younger, the Corps issued recruits a pair of brown dress shoes -- and were told to "make them black". That was accomplished with only a big tin of black Lincoln shoe polish, a lot of work, and fingers that were black from rubbing that stuff in. If, when done you get polish on the bottom of your trousers, that's normal. It happens when ever you shine your shoes or boots --- no matter what color. JMHO Mike.

Sylvia, I would like to see your brother's design. I've been using the 'katsass' logo for over 40 years now and my customers enjoy it. Many will pick up a new item from me, and the first thing they do is look for it. It's gotten to the point that there has become a few katsass snobs, they look for the logo on a holster and determine if it is an 'original' that I did for years free hand with a ball stylus, or a 'modern' one done with a stamp. To me it's kind of odd that it has gotten that far. Mike

One other sideline to the Mop & Glo is that when you realize how much is in a jug of the stuff, then look at the price of the Super Sheen and how much you get of IT, the cost difference is really surprising --- and you can use the Mop & Glo on your floors too. If you use any kind of sprayer, just run some clear water through it to clean. Mike

From the grumpy old guy; I make a new set of 'branding irons' for each item, as the heat (I get 'em yellow/red with a torch) destroys what temper they have in fairly short order. I always cut my stuff, dye it and then assemble. The branding is done after the dye has dried thoroughly, and prior to assembly. Mike

Well sinopa, FWIW from the old grump; I hand stitch ALL of my stuff. I use Fiebing's dyes (Leather Dye and Pro Oil Dye) and, as you do, allow my leather to dry thoroughly prior to stitching. White on black can be a problem but I now use only vinagaroon for black items --- no rub-off like all of the black dyes I've tried. Black has to be the worst for rub-off and my only suggestion is to buff the hell out of your stuff prior to stitching, then buff again, when you think you are ready to stitch. I'd also give it a shot of a thinned acrylic based sealer like Super Sheen or my personal go-to stuff --- a 50/50 mix of Mop & Glo floor polish and water, misted on with an airbrush. One light coat, just misted on so there are no runs. The wax balm is picking up the remaining particles in your dye and transfereing them to the thread --- I believe that the acrylic should seal them in place while you stitch. Mike

FWIW from the grump; Sounds crazy doesn't it? I ran out of one of the old 'sheen' products a loooong time ago and was searching for a reasonable alternative. Found Ma's Mop and Glo floor stuff and read what it was --- basically the same as the 'sheen' product! --- an acrylic polish. A little playing with it and now I've been using it for at least 40 years, and most likely more --- not sure exactly when I started using it.. As said, 50/50 with water, apply in a mist, allow to dry and hit with a LIGHT coat of neutral Kiwi polish.. Too heavy a coat of Kiwi may show stress marks from some flexing, so I have always just used my fingers to rub small amounts into the surface of my project and buff with a soft cloth. One person reports that he uses a cheap household pump sprayer with great results, and for any drips he just wipes them with a soft rag before they dry. Mike