katsass

For what you are looking for I have used a single application of blue, then multiple coats of black pretty satisfactorily. I use an airbrush for uniform application. Actually, the best (IMO) black is from homemade vinegaroon. It's not a dye per se, but a dilute chemical (ferrous or ferric acetate I believe) liquid, that reacts chemically with tannins within the leather. It turns the leather dead black throughout the entire thickness of the hide. Search 'vinegaroon' on this forum. Mike

nervjiggy, First, I will not use eco-flo dyes. I have never been able to achieve decent (IMO) coverage with it. I use only Fiebing's pro oil or spirit dyes. Angelus dyes are also good. When using a dauber, or any mechanical way to apply dye, you'll need multiple applications ...in different directions. What I mean is start by going from top to bottom on your leather piece, allow to set up for a few minutes then go back and apply at 90 degrees to the first application. After that, at 45 degrees to the last and finally at the opposite 45 degree angle. This usually gives pretty decent coverage. If it would be too dark, thin the dye with the appropriate solvent ... usually denatured alcohol. (with eco stuff, it would be water) I use an inexpensive airbrush to apply my dye, it's more expedient and the coverage is much more even.

How true that comment is ........ I swear that 1/2 of southern CA. makes a run to Vegas every Friday night. And then there is always Laughlin, NV. right on the border of CA. and AZ. Been there more than once for ammo, auto paint and leather stuff ..... like casinos. Mike

Thanks Dave, I appreciate the comments. If using coat hanger wire, you may find it simpler to make some of the more complex brands in two or three pieces, also ensure that the little irons will lay flat on the leather for an even burn. Finally ..... use pliers to hold the hot little beggars! Mike

Well, I have branded a number of items over the years, but not with a commercial branding iron. I use coat hanger wire to replicate original cattle brand, heat them with a propane torch or the kitchen stove. I find that the wire, heated red/yellow hot works best for me. I brand after dying but before finishing. I also find that the use of light shades or tones of browns and tans allow the brand to show the the greatest extent. A pic of the last holster done with cattle brands. Mike

Highlands, as I have previously indicated I make most of my stuff out of two layers of leather bonded flesh side to flesh side. For this reason I have no pics of a holster with a flesh side showing. I decided to show you a holster made by me about three years ago. It is one that I carry often and the pic of it's interior shows pretty well why I go to the extra effort to make them the way I do. That pic was taken this morning. Mike

Highlands; As to making a lined holster. I make almost all of my holsters from two layers of light leather, which, when bonded together, equal a single piece of about 9/10 oz.veg tanned. leather. I prefer this to using the heavier leather and applying a thinner inner layer .... but that's just me. I think my stuff comes out more firm and/or rigid than a single piece of heavier leather. All I do is rough cut two pieces of the light stuff. Then I coat the flesh sides with a good contact cement (I use Weldwood Contact, but NOT the gel formula) allow them to dry to the touch, then stick them together and roll them with an old wallpaper roller. After that I just transfer my pattern and treat the thing a a single thickness of leather ... with two smooth sides. One main difference is that ALL edges need to be stitched, (like this little guy in the pic). As to the use of Mop and Glo. I dilute it 1/2 and 1/2 with water, and use an airbrush for application. I 'mist' on a coat and allow it to penetrate and dry, then one more misted coat. That's it. Mike

OK, I see what he's talking about ... I had visions of the entire interior looking like an old string mop. For stringy leather on the flesh side, I hit it on a bench type belt sander with about 80 grit .... with a piece of wood to back the leather and keep it even. Uhhhh ....keep a tight hold in the skin. FWIW .... I use 3/4 oz as my light leather for a liner. Mike

Wareagle, If you were asking me, no, I don't anymore. I started learning stitching from an old WWI cavalry soldier, back when I was about 17 ..... he made me use an awl (of his) Later I found a Dremel tool and thought that the drill method would be quicker and easier. (At 17 I thought I was inventing something new, and was smarter than that old man) It does produce a decent looking stitch line if one is careful, but in time, I found that gouging, marking my stitches with an overstitch and using just a GOOD, SHARP awl is quicker, and it eliminates an unnecessary step. Of course that old man was right. But now, I guess that I are that old man. Age does change one's outlook. Mike

As BigO says, that belt loop is pretty big, both in width and length (height) and stitching around it is unnecessary. The loop NEEDS to fit the belt fairly tightly. As to your stitching, it doesn't look like saddle stitching to me. I may be wrong, but it appears that (maybe) you did a standard 'running' stitch going one way, then reversed and came back the opposite way. If so, that aint good. You definitely need to use a stitching gouge and a good overstitch wheel. Especially with the type of front sight on your shooter, you need to make the holster longer, at least to a length which covers the muzzle. As to aesthetics, I would like to see less of long straight lines. Gentle curves are much more attractive and pleasing to the eye. Edging and burnishing always will enhance your work and give a 'finished' appearance. I also would kind of like to see the back side of this piece.

I'm a bit confused, just what kind of shooter are you stuffing into a holster that gets the holster "torn to shreds"? I have made a holster or two over the last 50 years or so, but have never had any gun tear one to shreds. Maybe a pic would help me understand. Mike

Just another two cent's worth. Stitching is not needed, however, the biggest problem that I have seen is that some newer makers seem to get the slots too close the the edge of the 'wings'. Gotta have some leather between your slot and your edge. Mike

Ray, I've had a similar pattern of coloring show up in a piece of cowhide a while ago, but not quite to that extent. I like the look and if I could figure out how to determine which piece of dead animal skin would produce it, I'd buy a lot of the stuff. It should go without saying that your work is exemplary ... as expected. Mike

I make one once in a while ....... for grumpy old farts like myself that aren't about to change our ways. I pay bills mostly by check (for example, Medicare requires payment by check) and generally by going to the locale that requires payment .....the major extent of our travel. I do have a credit card by which I purchase leather goods and pay for a week (once in a while) at a small (two unit) little known motel on a rough piece of the CA. coast where Ma and I can see the fog roll in and watch the ocean ..... in peace. For other purchases I pay in cash. I don't care much for ATM's nor an I too trusting of online banking and/or bill payments. Mike

Guy: FWIW from the old grumpy guy. I have found that to get an even edge of dye, I use a little Dremel (or any rotary tool) hard felt buffing pad ... around 3/4". I don't use the smaller ones because I have stubby fingers. I don't use them for anything but dyeing the edges of my projects, and they can be reused many times. (same color only) After an initial quick edge burnishing, I soak one down well with the color of dye wanted (wear gloves) Lay the unassembled piece (holster, shell carrier, sheath, etc) flat on a hard surface with the edge overhanging a little. Rub the pad across the edge until you have the depth of color wished. Finish burnishing, (the damp dye assists in this) assemble, and apply finish. For some reason, this very seldom allows any overage on the rest of the leather, and produces a smooth, even line. ... unless it's the morning after and you have a bad case of the shakes. In that case stay off it until well, or get a bit of the "hair of the dawg" to speed up your recovery. Mike

Wish we had the ability to HAVE open carry BBQs here in Kalifornia. It could do my income some good. It's possible that way up north, in the rural counties where folks are real, that there might be one or two now and then, held very quietly, but generally speaking, in a state where open carry with an unloaded gun is actually legal, to even think about such a shindig would likely produce a raid by local and State law enforcement (and at least 700 members of the press) ...... and all participants would end in the damned hoosegow! No one might be charged, but the do-gooders with stars in their eyes, along with the biased press would have a field day, lasting at least a week. I have a few ideas bouncing around in my mostly vacant punkin, but until I have call for any of that sort of work, my stuff stays pretty plain and basically utilitarian Mike

Great looking work Shooter. I usually use a contrasting inlay, but the black on black really looks good in this rig. Mike

Bruce, not to steal the thread, but I would really liked to have seen your instructor. Mine was a WWI 'horse soldier'. He taught me to stitch, initially, in order for him not to have to do the stitching in the repair jobs on his tack. He had a pretty fair case of arthritis in his hands. I was a kid of about 17. I firmly believe that the leather workers of the 'old country' have a tradition of doing finer, or more refined work than those of us here in the 'new world'. Ours seems to be more utilitarian with not too much emphasis on highly precision work as to everyday working leather items. The old man had me sharpen my awl for about 3/16" from the tip, and to use a slender one of about 1/8" in width at it's widest. He swore that if you could pull your needle through the leather by hand, you were making your holes "too damned big", and that the leather would not hold the cord tightly enough for his liking. I agree that the way I was taught is slower than others, but since it was pounded into me, and I've been doing it so long, I don't think I'd be able to change unless I had an instructor such as yours. I still have and use the small pair of smooth-jawed pliers he gave me way back when. Mike

Michael, you have done pretty damned well on this piece. You have a reasonable amount of leather around your belt loops ... where, in time, all of the weight will try to pull that shooter out and away from your body. That is one place newer makers seem to mess up often. You also seem to understand that the 'wings' are only out there to provide a place for the belt loops, and more leather is only a detriment to the function of this type of holster. You do need to follow the contour of the pistol a bit closer for your stitching on the trigger guard side, and also bring it in a bit closer to the gun IMO. I personally don't particularly care for exaggerated 'boning' or over molding. I see no use in it. You don't really need to read the markings on your gun through the leather. I know that many say that it increases retention, and it does .... initially. To my way of thinking, and in my experience, every time the gun goes in or out of the holster, you are pushing the indented leather around the ejection port and trigger guard out of place .... moving (what should be) pretty rigid leather. Constant movement of formed leather softens it, breaks it down, and eventually it can become as floppy as an old dishrag. Look at how much leather is around your gun. With that stitched closely enough, molded (by hand) firmly around your shooter, and tied to your waist with a good belt (or even an old chunk of hemp rope) the gun is going to stay in place ....'tain't going nowhere 'till you pull it!. Now, these are just the ramblings and the applied logic of a grumpy old man. Enjoy you chosen endeavors. Mike P.S. I don't like leather to look like plastic.

Reaper, I have to agree with you. To me, that is the weak spot in the pancake design, because that's where the most stretching and wear will take place. Ray at LOBO Gunleather designed the "Enhanced Pancake" which, in my mind, is a great improvement over the original. I'm too much of a 'traditionalist' to really like the pancake (or many of the newer designs) but since I build then now and then, I try to push the enhanced form if that type is requested. Mike

Wizard, use the smaller drill: Sharpen the awl for only about 3/16" from the tip .... sharp enough to cut yourself!! Strop it a little on a strip of leather periodically, and use it to open the holes, keeping the angle correct. Take your time. As you get comfortable, you'll get quicker. As I said, I use a slender awl ... only about 1/8". It'll start to cut but will finally just push the leather out of the way and ultimately close back up over the thread, keeping it tight by friction. The holster shown is made from two layers of 5/6 oz, bonded together and used as a single thickness. I do almost all my holsters that way. Mike

FWIW from the grumpy old guy: Wizard, I totally agree with marine mp, Go to a smaller bit .... I began using a 3/64" sized one (still have it) Careful work with a dremel and it produced evenly spaced holes in the gouge, and, after a bit of practice, vertical ones. Remember, when the leather is folded you do not get a level surface upon which to drill, flat yes..not level. (make sense?) It'll almost always make the holes closer to the edge on the back side when using a drill press, unless you are very careful. Anyhoo, you can then follow with a good diamond awl to open them up. after a while, by following your overstitch, you'll find it easy enough to graduate to just the awl, provided it's a good one AND you keep it sharp. Also, IMO, if you can pull the needle thru the leather by hand, the holes are too damned big. I have hand stitched everything I do for damned near 50 years, I run the awl, stick a needle (size #1 with 7 cord waxed linen)) pull thru with smooth jawed pliers, pull back, stab the other side, pull thru with pliers, pull tight, On to the next. Does it take time? Damned right! But everything worth doing does. In time..it takes less time, but it ain't like running a stitching machine. Unless you are making large quantities, IMO, a stitcher ain't worth the bucks. If folks bitch about a time element for a completely hand made item ... to their specs, they can just go down the damned road. Anyhoo, for an example, here's a little holster I did some years ago, just the way I describe. Advice is 'take your time and do it carefully, you'll be more proud of a finely done piece when finished'. Mike P.S. A GOOD sharp diamond shaped awl will slip right thru the 4 layers of 5/6 oz. veg tanned like this little guy with very little resistance. Trick is sharpen properly, and keep it sharp. I use an OLD Osborne with an 1/8" blade abot 1 1/2" in length. As with any physical problem, work at it...you'll find a way that works for you.

With this gun in mind. I'd step back in time and build a rig similar to the ones worn in the time period following the Civil War. About a 2 1/2 to 3 inch heavy belt, worn loosely on the strong side, which, when on horseback was swung over to the off side of the rider. The holsters were generally quite deep and without any safety strap, although some had a thong .... just in case. Mike P.S. The belts were generally either made with billets or just tapered on the ends for a buckle no larger than the full belt width.

Looks kinda like you already have a finish on it, if so you might try stuffing a damp (not soppy wet) pretty warm washcloth down in it for a short time .... just a couple of minutes ... then stuff the shooter in the aforementioned freezer bag (they are a bit thicker that a standard all purpose bag) and stuff the shooter back in and leave for an hour or so. That way the finish is not messed up from too much moisture, and the molding will (usually) reset. Mike

Mattsh, looks to me that you done good. Good execution of the design. Clean and well done. Mike