katsass

FWIW from the old guy: I use various combinations of 4/5 and up to 6/7 oz veg tanned on almost all of my holsters. I do not use any form of splits or 'suede' type leathers as a liner. In my experience all holsters will produce holster wear, lined or unlined, however, the nap of 'suede' type stuff, and even the rougher flesh side of the veg tanned, offers a place for the residue from the firearms discharge to lodge and become more of an abrasive --- to say nothing of the fine dust, etc. that just shows up. I prefer the relative smoothness of the grain side of leather against the surface of my shooters. JMHO Mike

FWIW from the old grump; I only use a stitching pony when stitching long straight things like belts, with an avenger style rig I just flop it around as needed, as I do all my holsters. I generally punch a number of holes, then stitch, then punch more holes --- repeat as necessary. Mike

Well. the simplest way I can describe it is to say look at your stitch as you pull that second thread through. Just at the end of pulling your thread you will see that you have a loop of thread, look where that first thread is laying --- inside the loop or outside the loop. Again, it doesn't really matter (I keep it outside the loop) just as long as you do it the same way for each stitch. If the first stitch has the thread through the loop and the second is outside ---- just thread the first back into the loop, and, of course, vicy-vercy -- just pull it out as necessary, then pull both ends tight. It should look something like this. Mike

FWIW from the old grumpy -- southpaw; OK, I've done a bit of stitching in my time, and frankly I don't care which way you poke your awl, as long as the hole ain't too damned big.The main thing is to be consistent, The first needle goes through from the same side each time, pulled tight, then the second needle goes through. If you notice, as the second thread gets close to being pulled tight, it will be laying either above or below the first thread (makes no difference which) but ensure that ALL remaining stitches are as that one was. Alternating above and below the first thread will produce a ragged stitch line. I was taught that every stitch is done in EXACTLY the same way as it's predisesor. JMHO. Mike

FWIW from the grump; I have used a simple drum, mounted in a 3/8 vari-speed drill to reduce the thickness at the fold for buckles (I mount the drill in a bench vice). Works quite well. Also works well for sanding edges on curved areas of holsters. I have also used a table mounted belt sander to clean up some nasty, 'harry' flesh sides on veg tanned lesser quality leather, works well also, if you back the leather with a piece of wood to keep even pressure on your work, although you usually need to trim the resulting furry edges. Mike.

From the old grump; triage, not trying to dissuade you in any way, but, it's going to take a person not as well versed in hand stitching as I am to put something like this hand stitched rig together without getting a bit frustrated ---- maybe a lot frustrated. . You might try to perfect your stitching on a few smaller projects first. JMHO. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; I'm quite sure that it's toast, done through and through. The Neat-Lac is a FINAL finish, but used at times to block the penetration of dye from specific areas, or when using a highlighter. If additional dye penetrated it, it's there to stay. The deglazer may remove most or all of the Neat-Lac, but that dye is there and you can't remove it, to my knowledge. JMHO Mike

FWIW from the old grump; I hand stitch everything: Mike

As said, use a REAL light coat --- or two at the most. Mike

MP Mike, first off, you're gonna make me blush (and that ain't too easy). Thanks for the compliments, but I take no offense at your comments in any way. each of us has our own way of doing things, and if they work for us, so be it. As a side line, I'm from the web-foot side of the Dept. Of the Navy, however i worked with a number of Marines while in air-crew (helicopter) training --- and in a few spots during the situation in the sun and fun capitol of South East Asia. In '64 I made 2nd class petty officer while in San Diego, before my second trip to Nam, and, at that time was the youngest 2nd class in the fleet. With a couple of Marines and another web-foot, I went to MCRD to celebrate my promotion. I was last in line as the five of us hit the entrance of the Acey-Duecy Club (it was the best enlisted club in San Diego). An old Gunny was checking ID's and when he saw me he told me to get the hell out of there because I was too damnd young to make E-5. I tried to show him my new ID and told him I had just made rate --- he didn't want to listen. Then, being about 1/2 full of liquid courage, I decided to take a poke at him --- to emphasise my point --- just as my buddies came back to look for me. They explained that my promotion was real -- that it would be written up in Navy Times, and to please forgive the fool kid for his over aggressive actions. He looked at me and told me that if I was that intent that I had been promoted, he'd let me go with his congratulations, and a comment -- "kid, be damned glad you didn't throw that fool punch". Fun and games in the old days. Mike

particle, I just cut a piece of wood on the band saw, with one end slanted at the proper angle, then round over the edges by sanding. Nothing at all fancy. Sorry, don't have a pic to show of the dummy -- never thought of it. Here's a pic of one of my mag pouches. Mike.

Abram, I use (mostly) a #4 edger, maybe a #5 on my heavier holsters. I do make almost all of my holsters a bit differently than most others do, however. I use either 4/5 or 5/6 oz for all holsters, BUT I use two layers bonded together on their flesh sides. With those two weights I can make up stuff of around 8oz, or 9oz or 10 oz after finishing. They go together similar to the outer edges of a pancake holster --- smooth on each side. This forms a very firm holster, more so than a single layer of similar weight. It does entail a great deal more stitching though, as all edges must be stitched. As Mike indicated, some feel that my holsters are a bit overbuilt. Mike

I generally use a block of wood cut to the appropriate size. Mike

How true; Years ago, my scrimshaw instructor (one of the finest firearms engravers in the country) told me that, good tools help, but it's the hand that guides the tool that creates the art. Mike

Abram, from the grumpy old guy; I make most all of my holsters from two layers of 4/5 or 5/6 or sometimes one of each. I bond then together of their face sides, cut, then sand to their final shape. This often leads to that little flap hanging off on one side or the other. As the other Mike said, run your edger along, trim that puppy off and go to burnishing. Mike

From the old grump; I use the cheapest rig that Harbor Freight sells -- the 'quick change' airbrush rig and their little airbrush compressor. It does everything I need it to do. Solid color dyes --- sunburst fades, etc. Finishes also. 'Taint adjustable, but with just a bit of practice it'll do this kind of job. Mike

Again from the old grump; Just came across a bit of information that was shown on a DIY show (totally unrelated to leather working). In it a discussion of residential water systems came up, and it was mentioned that in such systems from some years ago iron pipes were used extensively, and in many places they remain in use today. The upshot is that in such a system iron oxides form in the water and that higher concentrations of iron CAN discolor fabric --- and probably leather. I do know that while in I was in one Arizona town in the early 60s, ALL of my white stuff ended up a rusty tan color after washing. 'Taint impossible that your water has something to do with it too. Mike

Well Bard, that's what I've heard --- burning or soaking in acetone to remove the wax and oil is NOT necessary. But doing so adds to the show and introduces a bit of 'magic'. Mike

AGREED Bob, I refuse to admit to being over 70 to those that don't know me --- that's the age at which folks seem to want to speak to you as if you were a petulant child. You know, IN A SLOWER THAN NORMAL MANNER AND LOUDER THAN IS NECESSARY AND OFTEN IN OVER-SIMPLIFIED TERMS. Many don't seem to realize that we old farts had to have had something going on just to get as far as we have. Also they don't seem to realize is that our age one or more of our systems is either hurting, dried-up or is leaking. As Bob says to you younger folks, your "Golden Years" are coming. Mike

Hi,The old grump here again; That's precisely why I started to use my 'homemade' stuff --- that, and I ran out of Super Sheen. Used Resoline once and then heard of too many having probs with it. Believe it or don't, but I mix 'Mop and Glo' 50/50 with water --- YES the floor goop you get at the grocery store, and I mist it on with an airbrush. It can also be applied with a damp sponge, rag or even a pump sprayer ripped off from a bottle of Windex. Just apply lightly [wipe any drips which occur (because you got too close with the sprayer), with a finger, towel or shirt-tail] allow to dry (five minutes or so) apply a second LIGHT coat and you are done. Done, unless you do as I do and add a thin coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish, buffed out to a nice sheen. (Apply the polish with your fingers only, and rub in well, then buff.) The Mop and Glo is basically the same kind of stuff as Resoline, ie. an acrylic. The M&P will set you back around $5.00 for something over 30 oz. Check the cost of resoline, Super Sheen etc. and do the math --- and you can still use the rest to do your floor with! Mike

FWIW; AH, YES --- the leather quality makes a difference. Again, FWIW, I WILL NOT purchase leather from the 'T' place. Mike

From the old grump; believe it or don't. I use (and have used for well over 40 years) a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glo' and water (yes, the floor stuff) sprayed on with a cheap airbrush. One person has used a cheap kitchen 'pump' sprayer with good results. Stay back off of you project and just 'mist' on a light coat, allow to dry and hit it just once again with just a misting. When thoroughly dry, 20 minutes or so, rub in a light coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish by hand --- no rag, applicator or such --- then buff to a nice sheen. I made this sheath for the little Schrade skinner in the early '70s --- and used it a lot ---- that's the original finish. Just FWIW, as you didn't pay a penny for my comments. Mike P. S. It's what I use on ALL of my pieces.

Well, from the old grump, I'm at a total loss. I have absolutely no idea what happened. Here's a couple of pics of a rig I did earlier this year. They're done in a combo of saddle tan and dark brown oil dyes ---- thinned a bunch with denatured alcohol, and maybe close to the color you were working with/for.. The holster was wet molded after dying. The second pic shows the two matching holsters made. The one on the right, for this rig, and finished. The one on the left, a strong-side holster is unfinished. As said, I use oil dyes for almost all of my dye jobs, applied by airbrush --- never heard of such a thing. Mike

FWIW from the old grump; these are the style of gunbelt I primarily make. All are hand stitched @ 6 stitches per inch, the same as on the holsters. 7 cord waxed linen thread is used. Mike