katsass

I live about a two hour drive from Bullhead, Laughlin, and the river. Ma and I periodically make a run over there for some 'get-away' time. They have more humidity than we do, but we both have the heat. Mike

Josh; For molding my holsters I sog them down well with water, stuff the shooter in a heavy plastic freezer bag and wrap the bag tightly around said gun. No need for tape or anything. Stuff that shooter down in the soggy holster and mold the leather tightly around the gun, leaving the gun in place. Now, the idea is two fold; first remove all (or as much as possible) moisture from the holster rather quickly, and, second, bring up the heat level to NO MORE THAN 150 degrees (F) while doing so. Out here in the desert, even in Indian Summer as we have now, the ground temp can hit 150 to 165 degrees. In summertime I just sit the gun & holster on an old (smooth) box and allow old Ma Nature do the rest. In wintertime, I place it inside of a larger box on some sort of pedestal and direct a small electric space heater (equipped with a fan) into the box. I have a few holes in the backside of the box to allow a smooth flow of warm air over the holster and moist air to escape. Hope this makes sense and helps a bit. Of course one can manufacture a more permanent drying cabinet which directs warm air up, around and through the cabinet, allowing for a good air flow which is the mechanism that removes the moisture, and the heat which 'sets' the leather. Mike

In a pinch Mandy, I have cut a looong taper on the tip of my lace, covered it with 'super glue' (both sided) for about an inch and allow to dry. I then carefully insert the stiffened lace tip into the hole and pull through with a pair of smooth jawed pliers. I use a (dull) awl as a fid to lift the lace for going under a stitch, and ease the lace tip under far enough to grasp with the pliers. Mike

Aaron, thanks for the reply, BUT, those are not the Life Eye. I have at least a dozen of the split prong flat needles, but the old Life Eye were the best lacing needle I ever had. Like I said, my last one was about 20 years old, but somehow disappeared. Mike

Luke, A question from a grumpy old guy; Where in hell do you find Life Eye needles? I have looked all over for the things since mine (about 20 yrs old) disappeared. The PermaLoc needles are too damned big ! Even their smallest. Mike

FWIW: As said more than once...soak that puppy down..... wet noodle wet and FORCE it. The leather should go and after molding, you'll have not wasted leather nor time. A plasic freezer bag helps the gun slide over the leather. Mike

Well Mike, (we have a pot-load of Mike's on here) you said it. For those of us that carry guns, shoot guns, and frequently handle guns, your statement hits it right on the head. Each of us have formed our personal preferances and opinions based on experience, training and education over the years of our lives, and of course, we each know that WE are correct in these. As you say, "to each his/her own", and I'm sure that we can agree to disagree on different points. (another) Mike

FWIW from the grumpy old guy. The other Mike is absolutely correct. IWB holsters just aren't comfortable. I mean, if you put one on to walk around the block or something, they are tolerable, but most of my stuff goes to individuals that carry a weapon daily, and for many hours at a time. None of them ask for an IWB holster. Frankly I have told a prospective buyer that I won't build one. I told him that he wouldn't like it, and it therefor, is a waste of time and money ..... but, along those lines, I'm the grumpy sort. Most folks feel that an IWB holster will somehow be more concealable. I don't know why. It doesn't shrink the shooter in any way. the butt of the damned thing still sticks up above your belt line, and as you move, it moves .... usually in a different direction. The thickness is still there along with a bulge where the belt goes over the shooter. My experience is that most folks that have more or less started carrying concealed recently, do not realize that one must dress to conceal. That their normal attire generally is not suitable for successful concealed carry, and that an IWB holster conceals very little above that of many other types of holster. Mike

Here is another view of one. Mike

Well, as I said .... they weren't worth a whooo-ha. They also were not inexpensive. Both sides of the shell were steel, covered in leather. And notice the big swivel configuration so that one could sit easily in a car. But, that's a Clamshell Holster. I wore one for a short time, but got rid of it when a friend's Python hit the asphalt. Mike P.S. The gun in the holster looks an awful lot like an old Colt Officer's Model, but not the Officer's Model Match that I carried for a short time. Basically different sights only.

From the grumpy old man showing his age, and FWIW. Not trying to steal this thread, but this came up a while ago and I was unable to locate a suitable picture at that time ...and I finally forgot about about it. The term 'Clamshell Holster' apparently means something different in modern parlance than it did when there were actual .....'Clamshell Holsters' . Frankly they weren't worth a dink (one of my lesser used but more polite terms) They were a mechanical holster that opened by the insertion of the trigger finger into the trigger guard and depressing a 'hidden' release button. The thing snapped open rather violently and was supposed to (sort of) throw the weapon into the shooter's hand. Used by many law enforcement departments, they resulted in many accidentally dropped weapons when they decided,(on their own) to open unexpectedly. This resulted in numerous damaged weapons, and there were more than a few unintentional discharges reported. To me, the enclosed pic is a 'Clamshell Holster'. What I believe you are speaking of is a common folded pouch .... still, arguably, the most common type of holster made and one of the most simple to make. Mike

Well, FWIW form old grumpy guy. I use a good contact cement and glue the seam side together. Sand it to a reasonably smooth and even edge. Use a stitching gouge set at about 3/8". Run an overstitch wheel (6 SPI) to mark the stitches and use an old Osborne awl to punch the holes. Saddle stitch by hand .... usually with a contrasting color of thread. Wet form. Finish sand and burnish the edge. Here are a couple different types of long holsters I did a while ago. NOTE: The Remington replica slipped out a bit when I took the pic and I didn't notice before it was too late to redo. Mike

Can't saty for sure, but my mother (years ago) used to clean a brush then dip it in egg white, form it, and allow to dry and sit for a day or two. Rinse in warm water and dry before using. Mike

Names are not too hard to come up with, just think about your surroundings or maybe and incident or two. Ever had your car crunched? ..... Busted Ford Leather; got a single tree in your yard ....Lone tree Leather; ever 'over did' your steaks on the BBQ? .... Burnt Steak Leather; have a dog that loves to jump one you when you come home? .... Jumping Dawg Leather ......... live in a valley, Deep Valley Leather; Live in an area with a lot of trees .... Tall trees Leather, Many Trees Leather, Big trees, Skinny trees, Maple Trees, Pine Tree, Oak Tree, Dead Tree, Hanging Tree, etc. Live out on the flats .... Flatland Leather; Live in the city ... Big Towne Leather, Old Town Leather, Hometown Leather, are you left handed .... Southpaw leather, Lefty's Leather, Wrong Hand Leather; a nickname? Shorty's, Flash's, (I worked with a VERY rotund gentleman once, we called him 'Tinkerbell' , although that might not be too good). My son was called 'the kid from the shop' for years until he became a 6'4" 230# adult, but The Kid's Leather isn't too bad. This can go on and on. Just think around and out of the box, you'll be able to come up with something ... then on to a logo from there. Mike

Thank you Josh for the kind comments on my holster. It was made for the local chapter of "The Friends of the NRA". The symbols you mention are replicas of western cattle brands, burned into the leather, and this holster was named 'A Tribute to the American West' . Mike

Josh, since my holsters are almost all made from two layers of leather ... bonded to each other on their flesh sides, I run the end of a thong onto a hole on the outer layer, knot it, run it up and form the loop, then down into one more hole in the outer layer, and out a second one. The friction of the two bonded (except on the thong) and stitched layers holds tight .... but the thong is allowed to be adjusted with a bit of effort. Of course a Threeperson's style holster is almost always closed toe, but as you did, I leave a little bit open to allow most of the crud to slip out. Again, very nice work. Mike

Josh, I like it ..... a nice piece of work. I personally prefer open toe holsters ..... but that's just me. It's mainly from a lot of years of seeing the crud that collects in them over years of use. I can't see how you do your hammer thong. I make mine adjustable, but tight and fairly open .... simple to ease off with the thumb, like this one on a 'Threeperson' style BBQ holster, but firm and thight enough to serve the purpose. Mike

markush, FWIW form the old grumpy guy. To me, the first thing you need to do is come up with a name for your outfit. For me, it wasn't too hard, Ma and I (waaay back) bred Siamese cats, and a couple of things pointed me in the direction that I finally took. First, I like the furry little beggars. But mostly, there is nothing more disdainful than a cat that ignores you and walks away (cat sass), and second, I did (and maybe still do) things a bit differently than most. With a bit of disdain?, some say 'maybe', but I don't think so. The term "it's the cat's ass" was common in those days, so it just came together. Ma's first name starts with 'K' so it was incorporated, as she has the final say on design, color scheme, and the finished product. I drew my logo with a small ball stylus for years until Ma got me to order a stamp. Think about your likes, hobbies (other than leather, maybe), interests, nicknames, etc. Keep thinking and even ask your friends ...... something will come up. Don't rush it, all of a sudden something will strike your fancy. I do suggest that you keep it simple. Mine, some (many) say, is OVERsimplified ..... but it works for me. Off the subject, I have always said that 'cats is like wimmin, they'll take advantage of you every chance they git'. Leatherwork can get that way, but here's proof of my statement. (This was back when I had some hair and no pot belly) Hope this gets things working in you imagination and helps a bit. Mike

Gotta agree with Lobo. Coat the items as indicated ... fully and completely. Let the contact set up as indicated on the label ... it sounds like too much time, but that's the way it works. Place the two pieces together and apply some pressure (I use an old wallpaper roller). Then the hard part .Ignore the damned thing 'till tomorrow before doing anythig! Wait at least 24 hours before wet molding. I also use Weldwood Contact, but not the 'gel' formula. Mike

I'm with particle, I like contrasting stitching, however I generally use a bit less in the amount of the contrast. I do make items that are for more show, and have done items in black with white stitching which were greeted with satisfaction. You work is right up there, I like it. I'd wear it in plain clothes ... if the holster were on the other side. I'm a southpaw. Mike

No, it's made from vinegar (acetic acid) in which iron or steel is allowed to decompose .... or dissolve. I use distilled vinegar (white vinegar) and steel wool pads which I have burned with a propane torch to remove any oils present. Iron sulfate is different. This is iron acetate .... if I remember my chemistry from so damned long ago. Again, search vinegaroon on this forum .... there are some 'chemists' that explain more fully here. Mike

Couldn't have said it better ...or maybe even as well. Mike

Well, I'll take SLIGHT exception to Nick's mention of the NEED to have a stitching machine. Actually, all you need is time....and practice. Here's a western style crossdraw rig for an original Colt SSA. The belt is 42 inch in size, hand stitched Mike P.S. The belt AND holster are two ply. I use only shoulder or double shoulder for all holster work.

FWIW from the old grumpy guy: My initial suggestion would be to purchase the Al Stohlman book "How to Make Holsters". Almost every holster maker I know has his/her copy. Mine was purchased in the early 60's. It's beat up, but I still will refer to it now and again. Some of the illustrations appear somewhat dated, however the info has never gone out-of-date. It's well worth the fewbucks to purchase, and it should answer most, if not most all of your questions. Mike