katsass

It kinda depends on what you are going to use it for. I bought the cheapest rig Harbor Freight has........it included a set of 'quick change' bottles (plastic) and the compressor. It's a direct siphon type of 'gun', without much (if any) adjustment, good for shooting a complete piece in solid color. For feathering or shading it 'tain't too good.......BUT, you CAN make it work......... with LOTS of overspray. This is about the max I can get out of this rig with the quick change little gun...........but you have to work with it!

Back in May I showed a pic of a holster destined for a live auction for the Friends Of The NRA. At that time I indicated that there was another (different) holster in the works for them as well. Well. I got 'er done .... finally. It's sort of a tribute to our western heritage in that it is a Tom Threeperson's style with a thong VS a strap; for a K-frame Smith; with an inlaid Amerind arrowhead and branded with depictions of authentic western cattle brands. I think it came out fairly decently even if I do think a blue steel Mod 19 would look better than the Mod 64 I used to do the molding. Mike

I, as a general rule, pour off about a quart of the stuff about once a year, dump it and add a quart of fresh vinegar and a cleaned pad of 0000 steel wool. I let it work for a week or maybe two and strain. It seems to keep it good. I've heard that the stuff will lose it's strength over time....how much time it takes, I'm not sure. Mike

Cirrus, you might also call the folks at Springfield Leather (800-668-8518) and talk to them there. Those folks can be very accomodating and helpful, ask for Kevin. Mike

Good morning Fuzzy, from the grumpy old man; You did a pretty good job on the little holster, Stitching seems good, molding looks fine, and the overall design 'taint bad at all. I would, as Reaper mentioned, shorten that puppy up a bit in the muzzle and work more on your edges. Along that line (this is JMHO) get rid of that black stripe around the whole damned thing. Many people dye the very edge when burnishing (I know that I do at times) to get a finished effect on their items, but that black stripe is pretty distracting from the rest of your work. As said, 'taint too shabby overall. Just my two cents tossed in for free. Mike

Jagged, personally I feel that 6/7oz leather would be a bit light for what you are wanting to do. For me, i would use 8.9 oz. I use 6/7 with a 3/4 oz lining in my Avenger style holsters for any 'decent' sized firearm. Some, however, feel that I overbuild. Here's a pic of an Avenger type that I put together. Mike

Wareagle.........can't see your pics! Just little red X's

Great tip Dwight. I see that they could be used on inside and outside corners. Going to have to build a few and give them a whack. Mike

For thread you might try Springfield Leather and get their waxed linen thread, their sewing awl thread (nylon) or their Nytex thread (waxed nylon). I primarily use the waxed linen but at times use the Nytex. Never have had any of them break. I don't go to Tandy for much of anything, it just isn't worth the aggravation. Mike

I was taught to hand stitch when I was a kid of about 17...........too many years ago to make me comfortable thinking about it. My teacher was an old WWI 'horse soldier', and a pretty demanding instructor. I hand stitch all of my stuff, except the very few instances that I will lace something. I like the looks of well done hand stitching, I enjoy doing it, and I know that it can be relied upon to last. Mike

RWP, from the grumpy old man: First, I suspect that you are using Eco Flo dye. If so, do yourself a favor and get some Fiebing's, Angelus or other solvent based dye. As many have found, there are problems in the use of the water based dyes. The only things I notice (being the quality of the pics) is that either your thread is too fine (small in diameter) or, your stitch holes are too large. If drilling them, use a 3/64" bit, nothing larger. If using an awl, get (or hone yours down to) about 1/8". Other than that, the stitching doesn't look too bad. Stitching is a pet peeve of mine....I was taught by an old WWI cavalry soldier ( gives you an idea of how old I am) and if I ever get close to as good as he was, I'll be tickled. You need to work on your belt slots and your edges also. Now that I've tossed in a quick critique, don't think I'm knocking your work.......far from it. By your own words, you have progressed in the execution of your chosen projects. I'm no expert, just a grumpy old man that butchers a bit of cow hide, now and then. Take from my comments what you will, after all, the coast wasn't anything. Keep at it! You DO have a very serviceable holster that should last many years. You have the right to be proud of it. Mike

Well Matt, from the grumpy old man .......'tain't too bad. You need to work on your edges, and I'd use a heavier thread in the stitching. It looks like you may be using Eco-Flo dye, and if so, I'd switch to a good solvent based dye like Fiebing's or Angelus. If using a solvent based dye, you need to get your application down better for an even color ..... unless that's the appearance you were working for. Overall a very good way to start. Keep at it. Mike

I have done one as you describe ........ I stitched the holster to the belt, inside the actual pouch, and YES, the gun will try to pull out from the muzzle end. I later put a small 'belt' around the holster and belt in the dark contrasting color to balance the look. The holster also needed the retaining strap. Mike

What Sixer said and get your stitch line in closer to the shooter. Mike

Mike, I have found that about once a year I'll pour off about a quart of the stuff, add a quart of fresh vinegar and a full pad of 0000 steel wool to refresh my 'roon. Seems to work well. Mike

Good morning Robert; from the grumpy old man. Welcome

Jess, vinegaroon is a home-made substance that turns leather black...all the way through. It is an old (16th century or older) way to blacken leather. To make, I bought a one gallon jug of cheap vinegar and a wad of 0000 steel wool. I burned the wool (to get all oil or wax off) over the open burner on the stove, (Ma wasn't too happy; I could have used the propane torch in the shop ,but it was cold out there.) cut each pad into strips narrow enough to get through the narrow top of the jug of vinegar, and stuffed about four pads of them into the jug. Then cut a small hole in the plastic top of the jug (to vent gasses) and set it out in my shop for a couple of weeks, or a little more.(Then cleaned up the kitchen) After that I strained the stuff through a couple of layers of cheese cloth and, BINGO, vinegaroon (iron acetate). You just soak the leather in it for a couple of minutes and watch it turn black. A light coat of neatsfoot oil enhances it, followed by a shot of finish. Dipping takes a bit of dye and is more expensive. Yes use gloves either way. Mike

Thanks shooter, for the look inside. The hell of it is, i can sort of understand how the thing works! But, that is a strange looking critter ...... I think I'll just stick with working on older Smiths and Colts. Mike

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Chief,when using black dye (as I did years ago) I found it best to apply a light coat in one direction ..... allow to dry, then apply a second at 90 degrees to the first. Allow to dry again. Another coat can be applied at 45 degrees to the last if necessary. Buff and apply your finish ..... with a damp sponge. You shouldn't have a problem......if using spirit dye and an acrylic finish. As said, I use vinegaroon, you just dump your holster into the stuff for a bit, allow to dry, add a shot of neatsfoot oil, allow to soak in and shoot a finish.Here's a pic of a holster I did with 'roon for a patrolman working for a private community security outfit. The pic doesn't do the finish justice. Mike

'Morning Nooj: I like it, you done good. The only thing I see is that it looks to be a bit top heavy ...... as you already acknowledge. As to a gouge line all around, almost all of my holsters are made from a double layer of leather, bonded together on the flesh sides. This requires stitching all around, and other holsters always look sort of 'unfinished' to me without it. Also I don't use sweat shields. Having spent some time in the spring and summer humidity of Miss. and Tenn. I can understand the need for them back there. I live in the desert and today we got hit with cold (40's), wet (42% humidity), windy (35 MPH + breezes), and just plain nasty weather coming down from Alaska. Hell, it's damned near June and should be at least in the upper 80's with humidty in the single digits! But, by Wednesday they say we'll be back to normal, and by Friday in the 90's. I'm ready for it. Mike

Nooj, looks to me that you done good. Mike

Denster, good looking rig. Haven't gotten to get my mitts on one yet, but the idea of a placing the barrel as low in the hand as possible equates (or should equate) to better control and less felt recoil. From the reports, this one does the job, but it is an 'unconventional' looking shooter. I'll bet the lock-work is something to see also. Mike