katsass

Particle, you always do great work. I also really like your badge holder....... or maybe it's the five point star that perks me. Been partial to the old style Ranger's badge forever ..... even though the one I wore for so long was a seven point star. Good looking stuff. Mike

sd, As said in the 'critique' section ......... better than your last one, but could use some tweaking. Keep it up guy. Mike

Thank you all for such kind words...hell, your comments damned near made this old man's ears turn red! Although my designs are primarily without frills, I have two holsters in the works destined for the 'live auction' at the local 'Friends of the NRA' get-together later this year. Each is a departure from my normal stuff. They are in the design stage at this time (meaning I mull them over in my mind on those nites that sleep fails to come, and, after having consumed a proper amount of adult beverages). My mind has a good view of each, however, sometimes the old fingers don't produce what my mind sees.....I have time to produce these, and plenty of time to work them out in my mind....maybe too much, but I'll show them when complete. Mike

Good morning john, I have never played with Kydex, but from what I have heard, it might just work out for a thumb break tab. I bought my steel ones from High Desert Leather in Utah (highdesertleather.com). Don't remember what I paid for them, but I know I felt that they were reasonably priced. Mike

Yes john, there is a very thin slit going up from the hole. The hole should always be at bottom of the slit and afford the security needed, to run it the other way allows tension to open up the slit and loosen. The hole should be just a slight bit larger than the shank on the button and not as large as the max diameter of the button itself. Mike

Shooter, I believe it was in a thread started by you talking about a Versa-Max holster. Mike

Thanks all, I'm fairly happy that I got it done, however there are a couple of spots I'm not totally happy with. On the toe of the welt my awl scored the edge it, leaving a line that popped right out when the dye hit it, and the stitching varied a little right there. As you can see, it's a little more obvious on the back side.There are a couple of spots on the welt that didn't show until I started burnishing, and again, really showed up with the dye. But hand stitching that welt is something I don't want to do again for a while. It's nothing fancy as a holster goes, but I kinda wanted to show off that guy's shiny shooter. Mike LOBO, I don't know what Chuck carried in that show .......... I have never seen it. Someone more familiar may want to chime in on that.

Last Sunday an good customer called and asked if I could do him a big favor and make a holster for him by Friday (today). He said that his brother was bringing it from 'home' (wherever the hell that was) and wouldn't be here 'till mid-week....BUT, it was a Taurus 92 ........and was EXACTLY the same as a Beretta 92F. Not being familiar with this Taurus model, I took him at his word. MISTAKE! I did have an outline of a 92F in my junk .... somewhere...... and said that I could work up a pattern from that, but that he needed to get the gun to me ASAP when it got here. I drew up a pattern, got with him for acceptance, made a couple of minor adjustments and started in. By Wednesday I had the thing cut out, the two layers bonded together and sanded to conform, dyed, and the belt loop and mouth of the thing stitched. Then he showed up with the gun (first pic)....and yes, that's gold plate. This obviously is NOT exactly the same as a Beretta 92F. That huge rail under the barrel looked to be my downfall, and on top of that I damned near had to put on sunglasses to work with the damned thing! It was obvious that my holster, as cut, was not going to fit, and there just wasn't time to start over. I finally figured that the only thing to do was insert a welt .... a big one. 3/4" big (second pic) I finished it up this afternoon (Friday) at 2:00 PM (third & fourth pics) .......... he picked it up at 3:00 PM. He's happy as a clam, and said they were heading out at 6:00 AM for a day at the range. I figure that if he doesn't hit anything he can blame it on reflected sunlight from his 'new' shooter. Mike

Good morning john, as in most things being built, constructed, or assembled, the better the foundation the stronger the finished product. I'd go as large as will fit well. I use them occasionally, but only for a 'flap' closure as in these two holsters. Both of these are 'range' or transport' holsters.... no belt loop. Mike

Well John, the best way to describe it is with a pic...I think. The back side is reinforced with a thin metal tab then the snap part is attached. The front is a simple strap with the other half of the snap attached to it. Years ago I made the metal tab from old hack saw blades.... with the teeth ground off. The tabs are now comercially available. I got mine from High Desert Leather in Utah. I don't do many of them, but here is a recent holster I made with a thumb break installed. Hope this helps Mike

From my experience I wouldn't use a stud on the retention strap. I'd use a thumb break. Think about it, you'll already be reaching completely across your body in an effort to reach your shooter, but when you get there, first you have to grasp a piece of leather and pull it off the stud to get to your gun. You then have to go back and get your fist into the grip of your shooter and pull it from the confines of the holster. Remember, you will, quite likely, will be in one hell of a hurry to get to that thing and get it into action. With a thumb break all you will have to do is grasp the weapon, flick of your thumb, release it, and go to town. JMHO. Mike

Ditto what Rick and BigO say. I tried, during my 35 years as a LEO, a number of different shoulder rigs, from an old Hoyte when I carried a Model 19 wheel gun, to a few others when I carried a large framed auto pistol. They just become uncomfortable and confining to me after 10 -12 hours of wear. Some much sooner. I gave up on them. Mike

After all the sideline shooter pix.............you did a good job, Your buddy should be proud, as should you. Mike

Yes, Chaos, you're right. Just using a left-handed holster in that position would actually be just what you have created. Again, no kicks with your workmanship ...........you did a good job. BigO does bring out a very good point ......... the education of uneducated customers SHOULD be part of our service. I try to do just that, BUT, at times my manner can be a bit 'brusque' ....... therefore, the 'grumpy old man'. Mike

Chaos' I think that you are missing the point. Nobody is knocking your work....it's just an unsafe design. Try it yourself. With the gun in your belt (or holster) back there at 6 o'clock, butt of the gun facing down toward the floor, you must slide your hand between the gun butt and your body to draw the weapon.......the back of your hand will be against your back. Grasp the gun, and as you draw it, you will see that your hand will naturally rotate forward in order to align with a target in front of you. This rotation will cause all kinds of problems ( as I previously explained). Now, try it with the gun butt facing up....sort of toward your left shoulder (for a right handed person) grasp the gun and draw, it comes out just like a strong-side draw.......which it is. Now, stuff that shooter back into your belt line ....it goes in easily............the wrong way, butt down. This is why some feel that it is a good way to carry the gun. It AIN'T. Your customer has either been watching too many movies, is very inexperienced, is a fool.....or a combination of these. Do a little research on SOB holsters ........ they don't come with the butt of the gun facing downward. Again, it ain't you or your work.......it's an inexperienced customer .........and the excitement of your first order ......... been there, done that. Now you may know why I am considered by some to be a grumpy old man .......... i won't build something I don't think is safe. Mike

Good morning from the grumpy one: GOTTA agree with BogO! Back when I was assigned as armorer/range-master for our Dept., I had a smart a$$#% troop that swore up and down to me that the carry you describe was the way he 'always' carried his off-duty firearm....albeit, sans holster. During a live fire exercise, I allowed him to show me his rapid, combat draw..........with an unloaded handgun. Upon the signal to draw, his hand sped back and (1) grasped the gun butt, (2) began to draw the gun (3) started the (anatomically necessary) wrist rotation, (4) hooked his skivvies with the front sight, (5)scratched the hell out of his right buttock, (6) gave himself a great wedgie (7)damned near lost control of the gun and (8) made himselflook like an absolute idiot in front of a large number of other troops. Had the gun been loaded he most likely would have put a large caliber hole in his right thigh. The "Mexican Carry" is more often than not (with or without a holster) just as you describe.........and is NOT the way to carry a gun safely. It is THOUGHT by many (uninformed and without experience) to be the way to carry a gun in the 5:30 or 6 o'clock position because it's the easiest way to HOLSTER the gun in those positions. The "Mexican Carry" is nothing more than a strong side carry, moved to the rear. In this case I feel that the LEAST that could happen is for the shooter to jamb up the gun in the holster during his draw........with the probability of personal injury extremely high. JMHO Mike I absolutely refuse to build such a holster.

Well done Luke. Mike

Well Max, you always do a great job with any of the pieces you've shared with us. My only comments are; first, the grips, and I'll just leave it at that.Second; to carry a shooter of that size in an IWB holster most likely will require some new (larger) trousers. They just aren't an easy gun to conceal, unless you are a pretty big man. Now, I happen to carry (at times) a S&W Mod.-24 3" .44. But I carry it in an OWB on a well reinforced 1 3/4" belt. Just for grins.....a pic of my 'big' snubby. Mike

Good morning from the grumpy old man; Well ES, I started as a LEO back when our issued duty guns were Colt Police Positive Specials. We soon began to purchase our own guns when the .357 became easily available.........these being mostly some version of a K-Frame S&W wheel gun. The only holsters at that time that had a retaining strap were those used on duty, almost all others were built sans the strap. The guys on horseback usually wanted one but the majority found little need for such retention. Back then holsters were made of true 10 oz. cowhide and were well fitted to the gun........without the 'boning' that seems to be prevalent in so many of the current manufacturer's and maker's products. They were also fairly high riding, and an awful lot of cops carried a Mod.-19 off and on duty. I built holsters for these guns, and others, as far back as the mid '60s, and the majority of those that had a retaining strap were for single action auto pistols that were carried cocked and locked. The safety strap was just that.....one that provided a bit of safety for the wearer, the strap being between the hammer and the breech of the gun. I CAN recall two instances of an individual dropping a wheelgun from his holster; one was when an individual made a mad dash to a restroom and dropped trou in a big hurry, the second was when a helicopter crewman leaned out from the open port over a dry lake while on a search........that was from a Hoyte shoulder rig. (the gun was found, dusty but undamaged about three weeks later) In the last five years I have built only one holster with a retention strap. That being a modified 'Threepersons' style , with a thumb break, the trigger guard covered, in black, and without basket-weave. That was built to the regs of a private security outfit for a new hire retired LEO. Now, I'm not making any recommendation nor even stating a preference, just relating my experiences. The reason I'm on the computer is that I'm up earlier than anyone else in the house and this is about the only thing I can do without irritating those that sleep late and/or stirring up the whole damned joint. Mike

Chaos, if you think about it (it took me a long time to realize this) it's the amount of belt in contact with the holster that provides stability, not the amount of wing.. In your holster there is about a half inch or less on each side. I personally have now (recently) gone to trying to make LOBO'S "Enhanced Pancake" holster when asked to make a pancake style. Take a look at his design.......it provides an inch or more on each side, and ties the belt to the wings much more efectively. Those that I have made have been met with great approval. They take a bit more work, however the outcome is superior to the standard pancake IMHO. Here's a pic of my first one. Keep up the good work. Mike

Good morning from the grumpy old man: Your workmanship looks pretty good ...... but. The wings are used in this type of holster only to provide a place to put the belt slots. Your belt slots are way out there on the very edge of those big wings, and are a bit oversized. In use, the actual retention is only between the outer edge of the slot and the outer edge of the wing. In time, I think that you will see these areas stretch ('cause there just ain't too much leather there, and it's a butt heavy gun) and the gun will begin to feel top heavy or lean out ..... if it doesn't at the outset. I'd move those belt slots in closer to the weapon, thin them down a bit, get more leather around the slots, shorten the wings. and even raise the slots a bit ........ remember that most of the weight of a loaded 1911 is from the butt to the breech face .......... and gravity is always working on it. By moving the slots inward you will tie them to the body of the holster better, and moving them up a bit will provide more support. The farther from the weapon the belt slots are, and the lower they are, the less rigidity and support you get. As to the closed muzzle on your rig ....... I gotta agree with BigO. You'd be surprised at how much crud can accumulate down in the toe of a closed toe holster over time ..... and nobody ever thinks to look in there and clean it out. Now, with all that said, do NOT think that I'm knocking your work. It looks better than many I have seen. These are just the items I happen to notice and are from over 40+ years of experience, screw-ups, and butchering cow hides. I'm no expert, a self proclaimed expert can be defined as: an EX ; a has-been combined with a SPERT (spurt); a drip under pressure. Take from my comments what you will, but keep at it.........you're doing fine. Mike

particle; from the grumpy old man; the only thing that strikes me is the distance of your belt slots are away from the gun itself.....or how close they are to the holster's edge. In my experience, the closer to the gun you place them, the tighter the holster will be pulled into the body of the person wearing it........AND the tighter it will remain. Over time, those slots will stretch some, and you'll notice that there isn't actually too much leather between the slot and the outer edge of the holster..........the same where it exits. I'd move the slots in to about mid way between the holster edge and the stitching.....JMHO. Other than that, it's a darned good looking rig. Mike

I've been looking at it........it makes a lot of sense, especially for us south-paws.....IF the guide can be reversed. Mike

Particle; You might look into working up a holster for the gun utilizing LOBO'S 'Enhanced Pancake' design. The one I did for a little Sig 232 has been received by my customer with nothing but praise. He says that he has never had a more comfortable holster, nor one that keeps the gun in closer to the body than the one I built him. LOBO'S design really pulls the gun in closer and tighter than the standard pancake. It also allowed me to situate the gun a bit higher than in a standard pancake. If you can''t tell, I'm sold on it . Mike

Good morning from the grumpy old man; I cut my leather out, dye it, allow to dry thoroughly, assemble, oil, allow to penetrate, finish. Mike