katsass

jl; This is a pic of some work I did over 30 years ago..........while I was still learning (I'm still learning).........it isn't all that great, but it shows what I mean by 'framing' your work. A simple cut, beveled down, then your carving, stamping etc. inside of that, will set it off and display your work to it's best. . Hope this helps a little. The pic is not too good as it is a digital taken of an old 35mm print, and the piece was unfinished. Mike

Sixer; With Dave's reply you now have a few examples, and good advice from an expert! Mike

Well, I may be just a grumpy old man and well behind times, but what's a mosquito holster? Mike Oops! Disregard. Holster for a Sig Mosquito..........it's too early in the morning

Sixer; That's 6/7 oz. over 3/4 oz. with brown Karung snake. Mike

Sixer. from the grumpy old man; here's one that I did a little while ago for a Ruger .22 auto pistol. It's a little different than what is normally seen. Mike

Google KINGSMERE CRAFTS .......... go to it and look through the index for 4 strand leather braid. Mike .

OK guy, from the grumpy old man; I shoot a final coat of neatsfoot on all of my holsters with an airbrush. Just a nice, even, LIGHT coat over the whole thing. It soaks in and changes the color very little. I think a dunking......no matter how quickly done, will add too much oil, and have the effect that you are getting. Mike

Fredo; from the grumpy old man. I think it can be done. Just a thought, but if you cut a steel back plate to fit the pistol, then stack leather on it, bonded down with a good clear epoxy, you can sand and shape the pieces as you wish with a belt or drum sander. I did some playing with a prototype speed holster for a 1911 that utilized a stacked leather 'stand-off' (to take the holster out away from the body over an inch) that was done that way. You can sand, shape and burnish the leather edges to a pretty decent finish. You can stack a lot of leather that way and have a very rigid outcome, even without a steel back. It's worth playing with I think. Here is a pic of the stack I did before final sanding and burnishing. That's 10 oz veg tanned scrap. Mike P. S. Clamp the leather up tight between a couple of pieces of wood while the epoxy sets.

FWIW from the grumpy old man: You are right......the knot is causing you problems. The way I was taught by an old WWI 'horse soldier maaaany years ago (early 1960s) was to put your first needle through, pull the thread through and back towards yourself and ENSURE that the second needle and thread lays over the top (or under the bottom) of the first thread. ALWAYS the same! Always start on the same side of the leather piece....either side, it doesn't matter BUT always the same. Ensure that there is no variation and...of course, no knot. Insert the second needle, pull through and pull both tight. Each and every stitch is done in exactly the same manner.......never a variation. The only place I use the knot is when finishing. Throw a knot in the last stitch and trim the thread CLOSE to the leather, dampen the leather slightly and run your overstitch. It stays together. Mike

From the grumpy old man: Greg, you've got to stop this....I'm having difficulty in finding something to grump about in your work. Stuff like that will ruin my image. Actually, the only thing I see is that you might cut it down around the trigger guard a bit....for a better grip, and I'm not too sure where the back side of it hits the mag release. BUT, overall, a very nice job. Mike

TW: from the grumpy old man.........what can I say, you done good!

Google KINGSMERE CRAFTS......... go to it and take a look at their index........ quite a few pieces on lacing - - with instructions........that should give you a leg up. Mike

k.t, from the grumpy old man. Looks good......a lot like some of the Apache stuff from way down south and west of you. I'm not very familiar with the stuff from your area. I like the way you added that piece in to lengthen the holster. Have seen it done more than once on original pieces. Actually I used the same thing in a soft cover for a Shiloh Sharps I did a few years ago. I made that one from doeskin and elk hide. Question, what is the shiny stuff at the mouth of the holster? BEANS! I must be getting older and going soft....can't think of anything to grump about......well, maybe I'd have cut the fringes a bit narrower. Mike .

Well, from the grumpy old man: I actually am intrigued with the pocket holster, I kinda like it. True.....you need to work on your stitching as well as it's placement.....that's kinda important. To me a dye job should result in a uniform, even color........I think you might want to work on that too. As to the pancake holster......I'm not a fan of a pancake for the J-frame. A good pouch type belt holster will hold the gun in about as tight, take up less leather and is easier on and off the belt. BEANS! I'm just old I guess....I have a hard time calling the new stuff by old terms. Back when, a J-frame was a 'Chiefs Special' but usually called a Model-36. The hammerless was VERY seldom seen as was the 3" version. All that aside, you did pretty good. A pic of my favorite style of holster for my M-36. Mike

From the grumpy old man: It appears to me that you gobbed waaaay too much Resolene on you project. It is my opinion (and maybe mine only) that leather should look like leather.....NOT a plastic coated....thing. My advice; when using an airbrush for your finish, just mist on a light coat. You may even want to dilute the Resolene up to 50/50 with water. Wait until completely dry and mist on a second coat. I mean mist...just enough to slightly dampen the surface and then soak in completely. Stop.......allow to dry thoroughly. A nice light coat of neutral shoe polish rubbed in with your fingers (no rag) will warm the wax and assist it to penetrate the leather a bit. Allow it to mist over and buff to a low luster......which looks like leather should. Mike

A few comments and observations from the grumpy old man. I started carrying a handgun on a daily basis when I became a LEO back in '69. I still carry today. I retired about 7 years ago. Over the years I have seen holsters and the guns carried in them change ..............a whole bunch. Initially, back then, IWB holsters were just a soft leather pouch with a belt clip. They have evolved into something quite different. The penchant for the rapid and easy re-holster (IMHO) is something of a holdover from initial LEO training in which you draw your weapon, fire the course as required, and WITHOUT A FUMBLE......... re-holster. NO 'peekies' either! We practiced that, as I suspect every other agency in the Country did. These exercises were carried out with the gun safely in place in a fully exposed law enforcement holster......... And, as time went on, that holster became a high(er) level of 'security' holster, which, again IMHO, retarded the draw..........BUT, you still had to put that shooter away smoothly and neatly. To NOT do so appeared TO THE PUBLIC that you (the LEO) were not proficient in the use of the handgun. Especially, with the commonality of the video camera, APPEARANCES became a major concern to LEO administrators. This is the entire thrust of the 'need' to be able to holster quickly and smoothly when a firearm is produced from the holster.. In practicality, one has given up availability and speed when carrying concealed. You first must use up time to get some type of clothing away from the chosen weapon, it just isn't as available as an open carry holster. Then you must get it out where it can be used (time again). To think that the clothing will stay out of the way for the draw or re-holster of the weapon is ludicrous. Those of us that carried while assigned to plain clothes or under cover work, did practice........a lot......for a draw from a concealed carry position..........but the holstering was exempt for the reason stated........stuff is in the way. Frankly, while practicing, we tore a lot of buttons off shirts.......and tore a few holes in them too. Draw from a concealed position can cause problems when least expected. Most of us would revert to a quick stashing of the gun in a Mexican carry position for a very temporary solution to the re-holster. As I have said, things have progressed and evolved. Our IWB holsters are now larger and much more sophisticated than before. They also are so much 'neater' looking..........cost more, and a common need for all of us is to have the neatest and best looking rig available.The reinforcement at the mouth allows for a plethora of modifications and design variations, as well as being able to be completed in a very attractive and striking manner. Practical ???? I don't know. It seems to me that most will still need to use two hands to put our gun away, and frankly, I agree with BigK, I couldn't care less WTSHTF. Mike

A couple of thoughts from the grumpy old man: I would like to see some stitching around the belt loops, just for insurance sake, so as not to give the leather a CHANCE to to delaminate. I believe that it would also give a more 'finished' appearance. Also, would prefer to see the bottom portion rounded off, matching more to the flowing lines in the upper portion of your pattern..........it kind of stops....abruptly. Finally, I'd prefer to have just a bit more leather around the muzzle. That provides just a bit more protection to the gun in that area, as well as a bit more support to the bottom end of the holster. Overall very nice. Take what you will from my comments.....after all you didn't pay anything from them and if my comments ever came out too glowing, I'd loose my reputation and being grumpy........being old is a given. Mike

FWIW from a grumpy old man: You have a pretty good list already, ie. stitching groover, a good awl, #6 overstitch, etc. I personally don't use a pony. My gouge is set at 3/16", and has been for a number of years. I only use waxed linen thread, no synthetics, usually 7 strand, in natural, dark brown or black, white now and then. Needles are either 0 or #1's ( needles are sized bass-akwards. The more 0s, the bigger they are) I do only the old fashioned saddle stitch, If you are drilling (it's easier to start and get uniform stitches with a drill) use a smaller drill ...... I began with a 3/64" .(.046") years ago. Bigger holes show too much. Use a pair of lacing (smooth jawed) pliers to pull your needle through the leather. Use the awl to open your drilled holes making sure that you get the lay of the diamond shape properly set. Soon enough you will be using only the awl. Re-wax your thread periodically. Get Al Stohlman's book on holsters. Practice. Pic of some of my stitching. Hope this helps, Mike

I don't believe that I have ever seen better inlay work than that which comes from DCKnives. My emulations of Dave's inlay work, although enjoyed by my customers, is not yet near his calibre of endeavor . Great pieces. Mike

Well girl, just a point from a grumpy old man. I have carried a handgun in open carry (LEO gunbelt) and in concealed carry, now, for over 40 years.. One thing that you must understand is that to carry concealed, you must dress to conceal..........not try to conceal as you now (normally) dress. Unfortunately, that's the way of things, if you are to do it satisfactorily. Modifications are usually necessary. Mike

FWIW from a grumpy old man. I make almost all of my holsters from double layered leather. Depending upon how large the gun is, the 7/8 oz may not be too thick for you to salvage a pretty good rig. I use Weldwood contact cement to bond the flesh sides of the leather together, then proceed as with a single thickness. Stitching can be problematic for one unaccustomed to it, but it can be done. You will not be able to get sharp 'boning', however, with good hand forming and proper drying you will find that you have created a very solid and firm holster. Much more so that any single thick holster...IMHO. A couple of holsters made from double layer work ups........both use 4/5 as the lightest and up to 7/8 as an outer shell. Mike

TR, when I make pancakes I make them with basically identical front and rear panels..........just mirror images of one another. Others do it with a slightly larger front. Both work. Mike

I'll go along with GrampawJoel. It doesn't appear to be heavily oiled and a dunking in STRONG, dark coffee.............drying in sunlight and a wipe down with neatsfoot oil should do what you want. Mike

Well, from the grumpy old man....... .#1: The stuff acquired at the shoe polish area in the market is fine. #2; NOT Carnauba car wax......NO #3: For years I have used 'Mop and Glow' floor wax(?) for a final finish. Mix it 50/50 with water and can be applied with a damp sponge, a soft damp rag, airbrush etc. A smooth light coat or maybe two and it will penetrate the leather...may darken a bit however. It's an acrylic similar to Fiebing's Leather Sheen. I usually follow up with a light coat or two of neutral shoe polish rubbed in with fingers (no rag) and buffed with an old washcloth, then a softer one to finish #4: I don't use paraffin wax, I use bee's wax. Easily obtained from anywhere sewing supplies are obtained. Just rub it on in the bar form prior to the final burnishing. Remember it will retard the application of most finishing materials. Paraffin works the same. Hope this gives you a hand.......... also live a fair distance from a leather supply place.......... Tandy's...and I won't use them too much anyway. Mike