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Everything posted by katsass
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2Nd Attempt At Lcr Holster
katsass replied to doug1221's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
'Morning Doug, from the grumpy one; You shouldn't have that much problem obtaining an even dye job with the Fiebing's. It almost appears that the leather was wet when you applied the stuff. If that's the case, don't do that. Solvent or oil based dyes go on dry leather. Some run a light shot of oil, allowing it to soak in pretty well prior to dying (oil doesn't actually dry, it just absorbs) that may may help a bit in getting a uniform application. Your stitching looks pretty puckered, making me think you are not running a good gouge line to follow. Your edges don't seem to have been cut with an edger and rounded over. Overall, you have a serviceable holster, of the type you desired. Keep at it! You're getting the hang of things. For the hell of it, here's a pic or two of the first one of that type of holster that I made......with mistakes. Mike -
Good morning Chief, from the grumpy old man: You are finding out, as have many, that the water based dyes seem to be something less than satisfactory when used. I've been making holsters for around 40 or so years and have used Fiebing's, Angelus, and even Lincoln dyes since I began. I have tried the water based dyes and, as you have found out, wet molding and finishing creates major problems. I personally prefer Fiebing's Pro Oil dye ..... applied with an inexpensive airbrush rig. I find I don't need to buff much at all. I also prefer the acrylic finishes, but use my own favorite 50/50 mix of Mop and Glow (floor polish) and water ........also applied with an airbrush, then followed by a light touch of Kiwi neutral shoe polish, rubbed in with my fingers, and buffed with an old washcloth. I don't use a black dye at all, just my home-made vinegaroon, although many state the Fiebing's USMC Black works quite well. Hope this helps a little. Mike P.S. The dye and the finish can be applied with a dauber, sponge, or rag ....... I just prefer the airbrush.
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New Iwb 1911 Holster
katsass replied to redhat4201's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
FWIW from the grumpy one; your workmanship is is good, there is nothing to sneeze about there. My only comment is in regards to the well done boning at the ejection port and the trigger guard. Actually, the boning is done well, and I can appreciate the effort and workmanship involved. However, in ALL instances of this type of work, the question comes to mind as to WHY? Every time that shooter comes out of the thing, and every time it goes back in, you are trying to defeat and reshape those areas. Each time the gun comes out, the slide or front of the trigger guard pushes against the inset leather, trying to reshape and move it out of the way. The same thing as you re-holster. Continual use will defeat the intended purpose of the work by wearing and softening the leather in those areas. At least it seems that way to me. I'm kind of a traditionalist and a bit old fashioned, but in reviewing holsters for the 1911 back as far as 1915, I don't see this sort of work until around the early 60's, and initially in shoulder rigs. If done for retention, you lose that fairly quickly in an oft used rig, and most of your retention in an IWB holster comes from you trousers belt anyhow. If for aesthetics, nobody will see it when worn. Now, please don't think I find fault with your workmanship and the fine effort put into your pieces, it's just that I have never understood the reason for this type of forming. Mike -
Thank you all for the kind words ...... as said, I don't do much of this type of work, and I can see a spot or two that I wish weren't there, but I do appreciate all the comments. I'm starting the one for the K-frame this week. It'll be another, different, type of departure from my norm, hope it works out as well as this one. Thanks again. Mike
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Well, what is there left to say? You already know where you need work, and LOBO has explained where you missed the idea a bit with the belt tunnels. Allowing the minimum of 1" width of the tunnel is what makes LOBO'S design really work. He did a lot of research and testing to perfect the design, so it's worth going with the design as intended. Keep at it, you are doing better. And. to LOBO ..... thanks again, your design has garnered a lot of interest by virtue of the holster I did for the little SIG. Mike
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All of my work is done to order, therefore I carry no 'stock' items. Hell, I don't carry any stock of any sort, except my leather, tools etc. which ain't for sale. Apparently not knowing this, a representative of the local "Friends Of The NRA" contacted me and requested, suggested, begged(?) me for a 'donation' of a holster or two for a 'live auction' for the dinner/fund raiser to be held later this summer. I explained my operation and told the rep that I'd have to make whatever I would donate, and that would force me to make a decision as to what firearm(s) I would provide holsters for and what sort of holsters they would be. In other words, I'd have to think on it and get back to the organization. After consideration over a few tall glasses of adult beverage (and maybe a few more) I decided on a holster for a Colt 1911 Govt. model and a holster for a 4 inch K-Frame Smith and Wesson wheelgun. I figured that there are probably more of these shooters around than any other models. They wanted something that would be distinctive enough to garner interest, and therefore, higher bids. Now, I don't do much in the way of 'distinctive' leatherwork, but decided on what is about my max along those lines. Here it is, for the 1911 .......havent started the wheelgun holster yet. Hopefully this one will get high enough bids to make it worthwhile for them. Dark brown Fiebing's Pro Oil dye and ostrich. On top of that, I didn't know quite what to give as a value on the damned thing, so I let them do it. Ma Kat got a little PO'd about that. Mike
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Well, what is there to say except that, as always, your work is exceptional. My work is primarily in the 'niche', as most of my customers are looking for something that they cannot find in the open market. I'm a small fry, as far as business size goes, but I like it that way. Hell, I just might want to go fishing on the spur of the moment, or go shoot a round or two of trap . And, as said elsewhere previously, at my age, nobody expects me to do anything quickly. Great work Lobo. Mike
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BigO (notice that I didn't shorten things down and call you BO): Re: holes in one's fingers. I don't know who the hell it was, but a wise man once said that just because you haven't recently been cut by a sharp knife, you can throw away the band-aids. I got lots of band-aids. Mike
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Modified Leather Holster Question
katsass replied to glockanator's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
FWIW from the grumpy one: I find that attempting to modify any leather item from it's original design is almost always an exercise in futility. It never seems to come out in a satisfactory manner. Mike -
Well Doug, I use an OLD Osborne saddlers awl ...... slightly less than an eighth of an inch wide. To me, if you can pull the needle through the leather by hand, it's too big an awl. I always have to pull my stitches through with an old pair of lacing pliers. I use size '1' needles. There are some good manufacturers of awls, but I've had mine for over 40 years and if I had to buy another I really don't know who to go to. I'd have to ask some of the other makers to suggest a good one. Yes Tandy seems to have gone completely 'GREEN', they don't seem to carry anything with solvent in it. But, it is better to wait a bit for a delivery than to disappointed in the outcome when using an inferior product. At times my customers have to wait for their product but, I have an advantage because being old means that nobody expects you to do anything in a hurry. My finish is, and has been for years, a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glow' (the floor polish) and water sprayed on with an airbrush. It can be applied with a slightly damp sponge, rag, dauber etc. ..... I just prefer to use an airbrush. It works best on warm leather. Apply sparingly and allow to absorb into the leather ....dry for an hour or so then apply another light coat. After drying I apply a small amount of neutral Kiwi shoe polish ....... rubbed in thoroughly with bare fingers, then buffed with an old washcloth. Mike
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Good morning from the grump: First and foremost, your design is, as BigO states, 'fatally' flawed!, but you already know that. If you think about it, the SOB type holster is nothing more that a strong side holster (with a good bit of forward cant to it) moved to the back of the wearer. The gun butt will be facing UP. That's it. Actually, a good solid little holster like the pictured one for my little M-36 S&W will work well as an SOB.....with the proper cant and a wide belt loop As to your stitching, you have a very good stitch line, BUT your stitching awl looks to be too big, and your angle in it's use is wrong. If you look at your awl, notice that it has four flat sides. The top leading edge should always be parallel to you line of stitching. At the risk of getting someone upset I'll try to enclose a pic from AL STOHLMAN'S book, "How to Make Holsters". Of course all credit for the pic goes to Mr. Stohlman's fine effort in his attempt to teach the proper way to use the awl. (notice this is a disclaimer showing this isn't a piece of my work or an attempt to plagiarize Mr. Stohlman in any way, just making use of his work in a way that I think he would appreciate) Since your pics are so large, I can't tell what your stitch length is, but a good, general purpose size is 6 stitches per inch ..... ie. use a #6 overstitch to mark your spacing, then to FINISH up your work..... after all....that's why it's called an OVERstitch.. As to dye, I haven't found a satisfactory water based dye worth a HOO-HAW .... with the possible exception of my own walnut dye, which takes so much time to produce that it isn't much worth the trouble. Try Angelus or Fiebing's dyes, I personally use Fiebings Pro Oil Dye almost exclusively. As also pointed out, your leather may be too light .....it's better to be a bit heavy on your leather choice than too light, again IMO. That said, the molding, for my tastes and sensibilities, is EXACTLY what I like to see! It's the way holsters were done for one hell of a long time until the idea of 'boning' reared it's (again IMO) ugly head. A holster molded and properly fitted to the gun (as is yours seems to be) needs no boning for added retention. Many times, boning detracts from the aesthetics of a good, clean design .....IMO (AGAIN). Overall, you are doing well, keep it up. As a suggestion, you might get hold of Al Stohlman's book on how to make holsters, work out a few basic, solid working rigs before you expand into some of the more difficult designs ......... the basics will always be there as good, serviceable pieces of the holster makers art(?) and teach you a lot. My copy is over 40 years old...and I still refer to it at times. Hope this helps a bit and that you continue working to produce good,solid holsters. You are on your way. Mike
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Edge Waxing Question
katsass replied to rccolt45's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Rayban, I use this type of felt wheel in the 1" size for applying dye to my edges prior to burnishing......(without being in the Dremel! Just the felt pad alone) I haven't found a better way to get an even edge than with these. I saturate one of them in the dye, then just run it at 90 degrees (it vertical ... the edge horizontal) along the edge of whatever I'm dying. It runs true and always covers the edge perfectly. OH, wear gloves or you end up with purty fingers. Mike -
Oil Or Alchohol Dye For Holster
katsass replied to luvthegun's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
FWIW from the old grumpy guy: I use Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes almost exclusively. I have for years. I don't know where you read that Resolene must be used on oil dyed leather, but it ain't so. I have used acrylic finishes on my goods since I started, and now use my mix of 50/50 .Mop and Glow.and water on all items I make. It's less expensive and works (for me) better than any of the other commercial acrylic finishes. Mike P.S. I don't treat my oil dyed leather any differently than spirit dyed leather. -
FWIW from a grumpy old man: My normal finish for years (40+?) is a 50/50 mix of 'Mop and Glow' and water, misted on warm leather with an airbrush. I allow a first coat to absorb and dry, then add a second. I emphasize MIST ON. I finish with a light coat of neutral Kiwi shoe polish worked in with my fingers (no rag, applicator etc.) Buff to a mellow sheen. It has worked great on holsters for all this time. Mike
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Best Leather For Holsters?
katsass replied to Shooter McGavin's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
FWIW, I use only a good quality shoulder leather. At one time I would hand select my leather at the local(?) Tandy........45 miles away. I won't even go there now. Mike -
Three More Off The Bench
katsass replied to Sanch's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Just another suggestion, if you don't already have it, get hold of Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters". At $12 - $15 it's well worth it. I bought mine in about '62 or '63 and still have it. Very good for referance. Mike -
Three More Off The Bench
katsass replied to Sanch's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Good morning sd; since I can't see too much of your auto holster (and I have a preference for wheel-guns) I'll just talk about them. First, your stitching looks better than ever, don't see much puckering etc. Maybe a mistake or two on the top pic (or it's the light) but better overall. I would prefer to see it closer to the edge of the holster and more uniform in distance from that edge. I'd also like to see it conform to he shape of the shooter to a much greater degree ..... actually, I'd prefer to see the holster shape conform to the gun more also. Now, I'm a traditionalist in my likes and dislikes in holsters, so some of your design characteristics rub me the wrong way. I'm not knocking your workmanship in the following observations, just adding my thoughts as to what I personally think would make your designs more desirable to a narrow minded old fart like myself. First, I like an open toe holster. Crud can (and will) end up in the toe of your rigs, and NOBODY ever looks and cleans it out. Second; as said before, conform the holster to the shape of the shooter to a greater degree. If you can, take a peek at the book "Packing Iron" by Richard Rattenbury. This, IMHO, is the finest collection of photos of actual holsters etc. from the Civil War up into the 20th century. It'll help you in designing your stuff.... especially for wheel-guns. I use it as a reference frequently. It shows exactly how holster construction progressed over time. Now, you have 'boned' the outline of both guns ....... pretty heavily, Even the trigger guard AND trigger (in the Ruger holster). WHY? To me, this sort of molding actually detracts from the pleasing shape of a well designed holster. It should be (IMO) molded by hand around (not into) the trigger guard, cylinder, and frame of the shooter, and just leave the barrel alone. A well molded, FIRM holster will allow the gun to slip in and give a quiet "thuck" sound as it seats in the leather. Actual seating takes place (or should take place) at the front of the frame, the bottom (front) of the trigger guard and the front of the cylinder. Although there were flat topped holsters waaaay back, these were in the minority, and you, as a maker would benefit from a more 'sculpted' design up top. This, unless you are making an historically accurate reproduction holster. You have added a piece as a mouth reinforcement OR an added visual enhancement. If it is needed for firmness in the mouth you may be using too light a weight of leather, OR leather from the wrong part of the hide OR your drying method is not satisfactory to firming up the leather, OR .......? If for visual enhancement you did good...with the exception that you might try to balance it's size to fit a bit better with the overall size of the holster. Maybe a bit too much of a good thing in these rigs. I enclose a pic (the only one that I don't have to wander through my computer to find) of a little wheel-gun holster. If you look closely, you can see the forming around the trigger guard, the same at the front of the cylinder and frame. It has an open toe, the stitching is close to the edge, and the overall shape is more in line with the shape of the pistol. Just an example of what I'm talking about. Now, I no "expert", and I personally dislike the term as usually understood.... a person that knows 'everything' To me, a self proclaimed expert is more often than not an EX (a has-been) combined with a SPURT (a drip under pressure). I hope you take my comments in the vein in which I made them ... as constructive comments, hoping that in the future I'll be able to ask for your advice and/or comments on my work. Keep at it. Mike -
To Oil Or Not To Oil.....
katsass replied to Cattle Hide's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Good morning from just a grumpy old man: First, I do use a heat drying method in the winter.......actually, just a cardboard box and a small space heater. I live in the desert and, in the summer, the ground temp will easily exceed 150 degrees, so I utilize old Ma Nature for drying my holsters most of the time. To me, the way to dry holsters in order for them to reach the maximum rigidity (and retain it) is to remove as much moisture as quickly as possible without exceeding about 150 degrees on the heat side. Excess heat will cook, burn, crack etc. your leather. Old Ma nature will do a great job of drying for me in pretty rapid fashion, as our humidity level is well below the 20% mark most of the year. As to utilizing neatsfoot oil, I do one final LIGHT spray over the entire surface (inside also) with an airbrush.....this, after drying. I allow it to absorb (oil doesn't really dry) for about 24 hrs, then spray on two LIGHT coats of an acrylic finish (my standard is a 50/50 mix of Mop and Glow and water) over a period of an hour or so. It works best if the leather is warm. This stuff actually absorbs into the leather a bit. For a final mellow sheen I rub in a small amount of neutral shoe polish into the piece by hand (no rag, applicator etc. ..... just fingers) and buff to a final polish. Almost all of my holsters are made from a double layer of leather bonded together, and, since the rigidity or firmness is created in just the grain portion of the hide, this gives me two layers of firmness and...a lined holster to boot. I use oil only to replace any that may have been displaced by the dying and wet molding ....... nothing more. Now, I never have had one crack and I feel that the slight touch of oil just keeps the hide "healthy", and, that's the way I was taught.. Notice that I emphasize LIGHT coats ........... like in 'mist' it on with and airbrush. Generally, more ain't better. Mike -
Vinegaroon For A Belt?
katsass replied to steelhawk's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
I agree with MADMAX, I use vinegar black when ever the thing I'm working on will be black. The positive aspects outweigh any supposed negatives IMHO. I may have a jug of black dye somewhere, but since making my first 'roon', I haven't used it, and don't quite know where to look for it if I wanted it. Mike -
First Holster
katsass replied to 1911 Jerry's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Good morning Jerry, from the grumpy old man. Looks pretty damned good for a first holster.....I wouldn't think it's your first go at cutting up cow skin though. As BigO says, you need to get in a bit tighter with your stitch line around the trigger guard. The other thing that hits me is that you could move the belt slots/loops in quite a bit closer to the shooter, that would provide a bit more support when worn, especially as an OWB pancake. Remember that those wings are only out there to provide a place for the belt slots/loops. As to your suspenders, I tossed every set of clip-ons that I had. Got the button on type from Deluth Trading Co. (Google it on line). Got a couple pairs of them and a few sets of their quick attaching suspender buttons, (stick 'em in and smack 'em with a hammer). I like them a lot better than the clip-on type. Got 'em on every pair of jeans I own, as my normal wear is jeans, a t-shirt and moccasins. Formal wear is ...clean jeans. Mike -
Thumb Break Stiffeners
katsass replied to Rayban's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Rayban; I use damned few of these, (one in the last five years?) but the last ones I got were from High Desert Leather (highdesertleather.com) in Utah. He sold them in small quantities at a reasonable price. you might want to contact him, but as I recall they were pretty close to your dimensions. He also sells a few other items difficult to obtain, look under his heading 'do it yourself' A pic of that last holster. Mike -
Reinforced Throat Iwb
katsass replied to Steven Kelley's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Steven, from the grumpy old man; looks to me that your construction and workmanship is pretty damned good. I like seeing it...not the design particularly...nor the dye job. That dye, in my opinion, is not your fault.......that comes from the tree huggers trying to sell the public on a substandard product that is not the quality and/or is not suitable for the job it is intended to perform. I also would suggest that you do not mold inside the trigger guard......it's just a poor idea. JMHO Mike -
Damon, since brass and copper are each softer than the blade steel, there is no washer, etc. ....or, lets say, I have never seen one in this type of sheath. This type of sheath was made commercially back in the '60s but were shortly outlawed in CA., just as were all folding knives that could be opened by gravity, spring-action, or a flick of the wrist. Back then I was a LEO, and some of us could open a new Buck 110 just that way ...but it took a hell of a 'flick'. A bad attitude on a guy with one could end up him loosing his sticker AND going to 'la carcel'. Anyhoo, since the blade actually never completely closes, the case must be made to the knife .... or to a particular knife design. Mike
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Actualy,i've done it both ways......but cased leather usually is a little easier. Mike
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Very well done bitone, I like it. Mike