Wizcrafts

Welcome to the World according to Adler!

Stu; The owner of the Cobra brand is in Ontario, California. They go as Leather Machine Company. Their toll free number is: 866-962-9880. I'm not certain if they can cut a table for your machine, but it's worth asking. Other than that, I know there are a lot of industrial sewing machine dealers in the LA area, most of whom sell on eBay. There's no doubt one of them can setup a table for your particular machine. The only IF is the servo motor. Aside from Cowboy and Cobra dealers on our forum, the eBay dealers don't normally stock motors with the very small pulleys we need for slow speed sewing and punching power. It is the nature of these motors to have much less power at starting speeds. Tiny pulleys help somewhat, but 2:1 and 3:1 speed reducers really make it possible to sew at extremely slow speed and punch through 2 or layers of belt leather. It would help if you can measure the diameter of the pulley on the back of your machine. If it is 4" across the top, a 2" motor pulley will give you 2:1 reduction/torque multiplication. This would allow a Family Sew 550s motor, equipped with a 50mm pulley, to punch through leather at slow starting speeds. I do know that the same dealer, in Toledo, Ohio, selling the small pulley Family Sew motors, sets up and sells Consew machines. I'll bet he can setup a table and slow speed capable motor and ship it to you at a lower price than you'll pay buying the parts separately from different dealers. That would likely include the proper v-belt too. The number there is: 866-362-7397

This statement needs expansion. There are two commonly employed motors for industrial sewing machines: clutch and servo. Clutch motors have a mechanical cork (or other sometimes questionable material) internal clutch that transfers the motion from the always spinning motor to the output pulley (which can be various diameters). These motors have an adjuster bolt that gives or takes away slack in the pedal before it fully engages the clutch. One must have a steady foot and good toe control to be able to gradually engage the clutch to sew slowly. Most newbies to these motors miss the narrow range of semi-engagement and the motor is off the the races at 1725 rpm. Since the motor is always spinning at full speed when powered on, they generate noise and heat and eat electricity. Servo motors are electronic DC motors that only spin when the control lever is pulled down. They are often as powerful as clutch motors and sometimes more so. They only draw full power under full load. Thus, there is less heat and noise, as well as less electricity consumed (unless they are run all the time). Servo motors are much lighter than clutch motors with many having plastic bodies. Servo motors are usually easier to control, speedwise. But, there are some, usually the pushbutton type, that start spinning at 100, 200, or 300 rpm! These motors always start and stop with a jolt. I would avoid buying that type of servo motor if you need to sew very slowly. The better type of servo has a knob on a potentiometer (aka: POT), or multi-position switch, which sets the top speed. These motors mostly start at zero and pick up speed as you press further down on the floor pedal. Here is the type of servo motor I am currently using. Ultimately, no matter what type of motor you buy, the ratio between the motor and machine pulleys will determine how slow or fast the machine can sew. Upholsters usually want high speed over slowness, so they choose motors with a large pulley. It is common to see a 3.5" or 4" pulley on both the motor and handwheel. You probably won't want this if you are not sewing things that are measured in yards rather than inches. So, leather crafters usually opt for the smallest motor pulley they can find. In the case of the motor I use, this is a 50mm pulley, which is a special order for the dealers selling that type of motor. Most general purpose sewing machine dealers order the motors with a 70 or 75mm pulley, for speed. Smaller pulleys also increase the slow speed torque which helps penetrate leather or tough materials. Both clutch and many servo motors contain a cork brake that dead stops the motor when the foot pedal is backed all the way off. This is to prevent the machine from continuing to sew after you initiate a full stop. It takes a tiny amount of toe action to free this brake if you need to handwheel the machine. Motors without a brake (or with the brake disengaged on purpose) tend to will run on after you stop from a very fast stitching line unless you grab the wheel and stop it manually. Some of us take speed control a step further and add a speed reducer between the motor and machine. Their ratio may be 2:1 or 3:1, either of which really slow down the top speed and magnify the torque. RECAP Clutch motors are heavy, loud, draw a lot of electricity, produce a lot of heat and may be tricky to feather for slow speeds. Servo motors are much lighter, quieter, consume less power when not at full load and are generally easier to control (except the ones starting at a couple hundred rpm!). All motors are better at slow speeds if equipped with the smallest pulley (50mm/2" or less).

Then get some precision metal files. You are going to have to enlarge the horizontal slots in the clamp to make it fit the Adler needlebar. It requires very thin files.

I have an Adler 30-7 with a worn needle clamp (worn inside the needle hole) and when I tried installing a Singer needle clamp, it didn't fit right (sat on an angle). I'm sure that a Singer clamp can be filed to fit, but didn't go there for the time being. Curiously, the Adler needle clamp did fit on my Singer patcher! So, the ridges in the needle bar and clamp must be a little fatter on the Adler.

That's a good looking machine and stand. It has all necessary parts. Accessories that are available include bobbins, bobbin cases (shuttles), threading rods, bobbin winder tires and presser feet. New leather belting and C clips are always available online. As for replacement parts, they are usually sold in the aftermarket and are made in China. Original Singer parts are out there, taken from donor machines that are stripped to the bare frame. You will pay about twice as much for genuine Singer parts than the Chinese knockoffs. I've seen genuine Singer 29k presser feet sell for over $30 compared to $12 for the knockoffs. The clone feet may not sit straight, or may be straight but off center, or perfect. Roll the dice.

I think that bracket is to control the travel of your check spring.

Try rotating the needle bar. It may be eccentric and positionable.

Forget about the 29k for anything over about 6 or 7 mm. It is also best used with thin thread, like T70 or T90. It is a light duty patching machine used to darn rips in boots, or sew patches onto Biker vests. Also, the bobbins are either tiny or small, depending on the model. If you tell us the fuil model number we can tell you which size bobbin it takes. Example: 29-4, 29k71, 29k72, 29k172, etc. The ancient Singer 132 machines have a spring loaded jump foot that can simply slide on the top layer if it is too slick. If that happens you have to rely upon the feed dog to advance the leather. They are actually meant to sew buffing wheels and car wash cloths.

This was an eight year old topic. There was no input about knee lever speed controllers because they aren't made for high power industrial servo motors. They draw much more current than the tiny motors used in domestic sewing machines. A typical industrial servo motor used in big sewing machines draws enough current to deliver 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower, which would burn out a domestic style controller in a tenth of a second. It is a case of apples and oranges. I am sure that some enterprising mechanically inclined individual may have hooked up some alternate means of controlling these 3/4 horsepower motors.

Old Singer sewing machines are like old Harleys; they need a lot of oil to keep running and leak all the time.

I have purchased machines directly from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and Leather Machines Company (Cobra). Both offer a variety of 441 clones in different configurations and price points. Both are advertisers here with banners at the top of each page. Reload the pages to get a new set of banners that go directly to their web pages. I have a drop down edge guide on my CB4500 that was preinstalled by Bob Kovar.

You will need to look into a full size 441 clone (or a Juki TSC-441). I use a Cowboy CB4500 (16.5" arm) and don't regret the expense at all. I have sewn holsters that are 7/8" thick, all the way down to hemming denim jeans (double folded seam). The machine can be dumbed down to sew thinner work with thin thread and needles. The optional flat slotted throat plate is a must have to sew soft, thin leather or other materials.

That is just friggin awesome!

You can buy a triple feed walking foot machine that has smooth feet available (and are usually standard). A good example is the Consew 206RB-5. It takes the same numerous styles of inside and outside feet as the old Singer 111w155.

Did the seller have any information about these modifications? It was obviously customized by the previous actual user. They were probably using it in a specialized production environment. You may have to strip out all the electronic components and wires to make use of this machine at all (if that is even doable).

I'm here to tell ya that some of the current crop of straight stitch and needle feed garment sewing machines can sew at 5500 stitches per minute! They have forced oil pumps sitting in an oil pan that has a gasket. Scary shit the first time you see them in action. Definitely not for crafters.

I used to have a Juki LU-563 (no longer made) that I used with 1 1/4" bias tape through a custom built double folder. The modern equivalent would be the Juki DNU-1508NS. One of my customers does freehand embroidery with a Consew 104 chainstitch machine. It produces a fabulous result on jackets and vests because the chain sits on top of the material. It can also produce a hooked rug effect on patches and jackets. There is a learning curve, but it may be worth your time looking around for a used 104. Check out the jacket that was embroidered by a Consew 104.

Are you searching for a leather sewing machine or a garment sewing machine? So far, your posts and photos have garment machines in them. This is an advanced garment sewing machine. It is for sewing cloth, garments and draperies at unbelievably high speeds. This is an upholstery, wallets and chaps sewing machine for medium temper leather, motorcycle seats, phone pouches, vinyl, denim and heavy outdoor fabrics up to 3/8 inch compressed thickness. A servo motor allows for precision speed control. This is a heavy leather sewing machine for thick belts, holsters, sheathes, gun-belts, weight belts, saddles and harness. It sews from about 6 ounces to over 64 ounces with very heavy thread. It has both a servo motor and a 3:1 speed reducer that penetrates the toughest stacks of leather at turtle crossing the road speeds. I can sew as slowly as one stitch every 5 or 6 seconds on mine. All of the above are lockstitch sewing machines. You have been asking us about chainstitch machines that are not suitable for jobs where the back side is visible and must not allow the thread to unravel if the chain is broken. You should define what you are wanting to sew and add it to your profile. This will help our members give you more meaningful answers. With a few exceptions, most of us on this forum are not versed in high speed garment construction machines.

That's a strange looking vacuum cleaner!

Yes, your motor has a cork brake. Give it a little pedal to disengage the brake when you hand wheel. This is a learning curve experience. There may even be a means of adjusting slack motion between full braking and the release point. Otherwise, the brake may have to come off, or be ground/sanded down.

No, I don't.

That Adler is made to sew moccasins and moc style shoes. That is what the -MO indicates. You will have trouble sewing regular leather with that setup.

The Consew 206RB series are clones/improvements of the Singer 111w155. They take the same smooth feet as all other 111 clones. Why not buy smooth bottom feet instead of destroying the ones you got with the machine? These inside and outside feet are sold in pairs by virtually every industrial sewing machine dealer in the known World. Here is just one of many styles of presser feet used in a Consew 206RB or Singer 111w155.