Wizcrafts

Set the bobbin spring for a modicum of pressure on the outgoing thread. Balance the knots with the upper tension disks and thread path. The bobbin is too loose when loops form on the bottom of the work despite the knots being centered. I tend to run fairly loose bobbin tension most of the time. I only crank it up if I want the thread to be pulled deep and tight into the top and bottom. This puts a lot of strain on the take-up parts.

Bobbins are usually loaded so they feed against the direction of rotation of the hook and bobbin case. This means that their thread make a sharp reverse turn as it feeds out. When you start and stop quickly the bobbin tightens its thread rather than letting it loose. A lot of machines have star or round shaped springs inside the bobbin case to prevent run on. These are called anti-backlash springs. They can compensate for feeding the bobbin thread the wrong way, including on purpose for a smoother feed.

Since they sell direct, it is best to call or email them about the minimum thickness it can sew They are little wooden handles that screw loosely onto sewing machine handwheels (after drilling and tapping a hole) that let you crank the wheel with a handle instead of your hand on top of the handwheel itself. They used to be available for steering wheels and Barney Rubble had one on his car. They are usually found on the handwheels on shoe patcher machines.

Yes, but not from actual experience. However, I have Barney handles on both patchers and frequently hand wheel my CB4500 and Singer 42-5 around corners.

The correct designation of these needles should read: 135x17: #18, #20, etc., where 135x17 is the needle system, and #18, #20, #22, etc are needle sizes (diameters along the shank).

There is no size 17 needle I've ever seen listed. So, the OP either has 17 needles, or system 135x17 needles.

I believe the machine that best matches your specs, at the lowest out the door cost, is the Cowboy CB3200. The only difference is that it uses a barrel shaped bobbin that holds a lot more thread than an M or U bobbin. They have authorized dealers in Ohio and Texas. There are a lot of members who have this machine because it can sew with heavy thread into 1/2 inch of leather.

The needle - thread pairings are shown in the first and second columns on the left. For example, needle size 25/200 pairs best with #277 (T270) bonded nylon or bonded polyester, or 4 cord linen thread (~ .0231 inches, or .586mm). The .040 inch thread you mentioned is 1mm diameter and would require a #30 needle. It is bigger than #554 bonded thread. You would need a Union Lockstitch, or Campbell-Randall Lockstitch, or a sole stitcher to sew this size thread. The strength of lockstitch thread is that of the smallest thread if the bobbin is smaller than the top. Otherwise, it is as shown in the needle and thread chart under the "Break Strength" column. Thus, if you sew something with #277 bonded nylon thread, top and bottom, the breaking strength of each stitch would be 45 pounds lateral pull. A force exceeding that would cause a stitch to let go. I am not sure about the strength of hand sewn saddle stitches. It might be as strong as either thread, or both doubled up. It is outside of my purview. All I know is that is takes much longer to hand sew than machine sew. Most customers prefer to pay less for any given item than more, so we machine sew unless asked and paid to hand sew or do over the edge lacing.

I bought a Singer 168G101 walking foot post bed machine for a little over a thousand dollars, cash and carry. It sews with #207 thread if the post is properly adjusted to clear the larger #24 needle. I got a half size (20" x 33") table with it. I have seen them sell for more. Keep a lookout for that model, just in case.

Then look up Solar Leather Machines in Arlington, Texas, between Dallas and Fort Worth. They probably have or can get what you need.

Be careful when offering (pseudo) legal advice if you are not a certified commercial lawyer. Even if one is a credentialed lawyer, the laws would be different in France than elsewhere. Bad legal advice can be counterproductive.

Much of the difficulty people with domestic machines have sewing leather has to do with the bottom only feed. The same problems carry over when these folks buy industrial tailoring machines and get the same results. This happened to me when I first got into sewing leather. It wasn't until I learned about and acquired walking foot machines that I began getting the best results, especially when reaching seams that stop feeding with a fixed flat presser foot. Takeaway: Buy a walking foot machine with triple feed. Order it with a controllable and powerful servo motor and maybe even a 3:1 speed reducer for the utmost slow speed control. The Consew P1206RB is an excellent example of such a machine.

Note to responders: The pdf contains photos of his or her machine and model tag.

It really boils down to what you need to sew and how many machines you can afford to buy. When I first began sewing I had one machine that was inadequate. So, I bought another head that would drop into the same table and just moved the knee lever to fit either head. Later on I bought another heavier duty machine that still dropped into the same table but required a different knee lever. Then I got into the big machines.

You might have a better clue about why this is happening if you can find a way to watch the hook as it intersects the needle. One way would be to tilt the head back to the peg and hand wheel the machine. Leave the stack of leather in it. Pre-punch the holes if you must to get the threaded needle to go through the stack. Aim a work light at the hook and watch what happens as you rotate the wheel. The loop may be too small, or dissolved already, or the needle may be deflecting too far to the left for the hook to pick off the loop.

No, it's neither a Randall, nor a Campbell, nor a Union Lockstitch. It doesn't look like a Puritan either.

Sorry for answering out of sequence. I am just catching up on this forum. The DNU-1541 is a lighter duty and weight version of the LU-1508 series. It uses a horizontal axis M style bobbin that is 25.5 x 10mm. The 1541 uses standard walking foot system 135x16 and 135x17 needles. They max out at 3/8" and #138 thread. The LU-1508 is the follow-up to the discontinued LU-563. They use "double capacity" U size Juki bobbins that are 28mm x 11mm in a vertical axis hook (drop in). The double capacity is referring to the standard G size bobbins used in the Singer 111 walking foot machines. 1508N and NS use System 135x16/17 needles. The 1508NH uses longer System 190 needles, allowing it to sew almost 1/2 inch with up to #207 (T210) thread. Some dealers alter these machines to use easier to find and shorter System 135x16&17 needles.

There is a conflict in that statement. The 441 machines (e.g., Juki TSC-441, Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4) use System 7x3, 7x4 or 794 needles, which are about 2.6 inches from the butt to the end of the tip. The walking foot Juki 1541 and 1508 use System 135x16 or 135x17 which are about 1.75 inches long. The LU-1508NH uses a 3/16" longer System 190 needle. These are all much shorter than the needles 441 class machines use.

Raphael Sewing Machines, aka Techsew, is located in Montreal. They are a major dealer of industrial sewing machines, parts and repairs. Their address is: 155, rue de Port-Royal O, Montréal, QC H3L 2B3. Their local phone number is listed as: 514-270-1537. As for the machine not sewing after a thread jam, it may be because the safety clutch popped when the hook got jammed with thread. Remove the top thread, then clear out all thread remnants from the hook and bobbin area, oil the hook well, them push down the button on the flat bed as you turn the handwheel away from you. The clutch should pop back into place and restore normal timing and operation.

Although not stated in his profile, according to the IP address, the O.P. lives in Duesseldorf, DE. This may help with replies and recommendations for parts.

That's definitely not according to Hoyle! Something has come loose or unscrewed, or out of its bearing.

I was out by about $800 on the price of this machine. They sell in the mid-3ks. This sub-model NH is different than the simple N or NS. It is factory modified to use the longer System 190 needles, has a longer stroke and sews up to a full half inch with #207 thread, top and bottom. Below is a quote of the specs compared to the regular 1508N and NS... The H in 1508H means very heavy duty, with longer stroke 190R Needles which allows for thicker fabrics and higher foot lift, a bigger hole in needle plate for thicker threads, and bigger teeth on the feed dogs which allow better feeding on thicker fabrics, etc compared to 1508N and 1541N that take shorter stroke 135x17 needles. N Stands for the Color: White H Stands for Extra Heavy Duty 10-15% heavier duty than the Standard NS Version, with a longer needle and higher stroke.

Cowboy/Hightex makes programmable pattern stitchers and we have 2 Cowboy dealers and the USA Rep on this forum.

No. Those are domestic cloth sewing machines with bottom feed and very light duty take-up components. They max out with #69 bonded thread which is just good enough to hold wallet interiors together.

Read this sticky article for good information and to eliminate unworthy machines. It defines the type of machine you need to sew serious leather projects. You will soon learn that there is no single machine that sews thin and thick equally well. If most of your work ranges from 10-12 ounces to 32 ounces, a CB3200 will suffice. That is its best range. You can sew with bonded thread sizes 138 through 346 on that machine. Consult this needle and thread chart to gain insight into how thread sizes equate to actual diameters. As for the question about other brands than our advertisers, there are several good brands out there. The Artisan Toro machines are very good. There are needle and awl harness stitchers that cost an arm and a leg but lay down a stitch to match hand stitching. Campbell-Randall and Union Lockstitch machines are the best of the class for needle and awl harness machines.