Wizcrafts

It has what appears to be a synchronized binder attachment on the arm. Some binder machines have a special feed dog motion that is not conducive to feeding material without the binder. You need to check if the feed dog actually cycles backward, down, forward, then up, or if it just moves forward and backward (for loading edge bias tape). Other than that I know nothing about this machine. Ask the seller what they used it for and how it sews. Ask about the range of thread and needle sizes they have used. It may be too light duty for leather, or not.

Before changing anything inside the head, loosen the chain from the floor foot lifter pedal at the pedal end. If the foot was too high because of insufficient slack in the chain, it will be revealed if the foot drops down to the throat plate. Lengthen the chain and reconnect it so it has a modicum of slack when the foot is all the way down. If this doesn't work, follow these instructions. Download the manual as linked to by Floyd. Open the pdf and scroll down to section 4 "PRESSER BAR COMPONENTS" on page 22. There is an exploded view of the presser bar system. It shows two screws labeled as #7. Loosening these two screws frees the needle bar to move up and down. You can loosen them and pull the foot down to the throat plate. Straighten the foot around the inside foot and tighten down the screws. This could possibly throw off the alternating height balance between the inner and outer feet. That's another adjustment. Artisan is still in business and may be able to assist you on the phone, in a chat, or via email.

In the beginning God created the Heavens and the Earth. Then, the Juki TSC-441, followed by the Adler 205-374,. Then he rested. The Adler was a much smoother machine and better balanced. Unfortunately, it was very expensive at about $7k USD and not many crafters could afford them. So, Adler stopped building the 205s and decided to replace them with the more souped up model 969 ECO, which only costs about $11k. That splains it.

Not just longevity, but reliability. Forcing a machine rated for #138 thread to tension #207 may put adjustments out of tolerance and leads to skipped stitches and/or poor lay of the thread. This leads to calls to dealers for help for problems caused by the owner, rather than the builder. It would be like putting Snuf-Or-Nots on a Harley then complaining to your local Harley dealer when you get ticketed for too loud pipes.

This result is the nature of bottom feed machines with aggressive teeth. That is their only way to move leather under the heavy pressure on the presser foot. Sometimes the marks can be smoothed out with a modeling spoon or bone folder. Reducing the bobbin tension will be a good first step that will allow for less top tension. Moving up one needle size pokes a bigger hole that is easier to pull the lockstitch knots up into. After you get the best knot placement with the least thread tension that still produces a decent stitch lay, try backing off the pressure screw over the foot. There will eventually come a point where the leather lifts with the ascending needle and that is where skipped stitches start happening. Take it to that point and add back enough pressure to keep the foot down all the time.

You can buy adhesive material that interfaces between two cloth items with heat from a press or an iron. If the patch has a plain back, lay it ot top of the interfacing and iron it until it has stuck to it. Cut around the patch and peel off the backing. Then position it on the hat and use a small ironing board to apply heat to the front of the hat over the patch. Most hats are flexible enough to let you iron on a patch. If this is too much hassle, buy a roll of double sided 3M Venture Tape from Wawak.com and just tape the patch in place until you get it to the patcher or post machine. I use this tape all the time to hold patches in place on hats and vests. It is also perfect for positioning zippers in coats before sewing them in.

The Juki LU-15xx series are heavier duty machines all around than the entry level 1541 series. The 1508NH is specifically built to withstand the stress and increased thread tensions and foot pressure required to sew with #207 thread. It does not mention any larger thread for a reason. They don't want to be responsible for repairing machines damaged by such high stress work as veg-tan leather workers impose on their machines. This is why there is a Juki TSC-441. It is built to withstand the forces involved in sewing thick stacks of leather, harness, saddles and buffing wheels. It is designed to handle thread sizes up to #415 and not break down.

For any members reading these last replies about 3D printing and are curious about them, we have a forum section dealing with 3D Printers and Laser Cutters.

It may or may not be possible to modify any walking foot machine with a vertical hook to clear #277 thread (0.586 millimeters) around the hook by moving the hook to the right, away from the needle. The hole in the feed dog would have to be large enough to clear a #25 needle. The recessed tab on the bottom of the throat plate would need to be widened a bit and the lever that pulls the hook backwards would need to be tweaked to clear the thread. Finally, the top and bottom tensions may need to be lessened to reduce the strain on the take-up levers and cranks as they may not be strong enough to constantly pull the heavy load imposed by 45 pound test thread without bending or breaking down. After all this, the machine would not sew well with a #18 or#19 needle. It would have to either be reset for thin needles, or super tweaked to get a large enough loop in the eye of the needle to be picked off by a more distant hook tip. It is unlikely that all this will work out with machines designed with #23 needles and #138 thread as the normal limit.

That is a typical outsole stitcher. Every shoe repair shop has at least one, if not two or three. Most are made by Landis and are model 12 (a - g). They have a curved neele and awl and form a lockstitch using waxed linen thread..

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I think you meant a Cobra Class 4.

No. It went with the machine when I sold it in 2011. Besides, the online pdf is easier to understand, despite the typos.

You are confusing a 2 thread bag closer that forms a type 401 chainstitch that uses loopers to interlink two threads on the bottom with a type 301 lockstitch machine that has a bobbin. Chainstitch machines don't have bobbins, just loopers. Most are type 101 single thread type with a looper on the bottom. This stitch is fairly easy to unravel. A type 401 chainstitch is not easy to open. Many people through out the history of sewing machines have tried in vain to create an endless bobbin. The various chainstitch systems were what they settled upon. The endless bobbin system lives in the same place as the Pegasus

My first thought was that the OP lived in Australia. However, according to his IP address, the poster lives in Jacksonville, Florida. Members are encouraged to add their home base location to their profiles to help narrow down replies to their questions, geographically speaking. Your source for Junker and Ruh needles would be in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, from Henry Veenhoven. I can send you his last known phone number and email address in a private message. He was last seen on this forum 2 years ago.

The thread capacity problem only exists in the small bobbin patchers, like these Chinese and Vietnamese street vendor patchers. Large bobbin Singer and Adler patchers can sew around several standard length guitar straps or men's belts with #138 thread tightly wound in the bobbin. I did this routinely on an Adler 30-70 until the owner got tired of frequent bobbin changes and stressful edge alignment by hand and eye and bought a Cobra Class 4 with a swingaway edge guide. I simply cannot imagine trying to produce sewn belts on a small bobbin patcher running #138 thread in the bobbin. This is foolishness.

I personally use #207 bonded nylon to reinforce belt edges that thickness (on a Cowboy CB4500, with well balanced tensions). Or, if the stitching is purely decorative, #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin. But, you will have better results just using #138 top and bottom on any patch machine.

When I got my first Union Lockstitch machine it didn't have a manual. I had to locate a harness maker that had a ULS and he was kind enough to photocopy his manual for me. I learned to thread and run the machine from that simple yellow manual. The fine tuning came with experience, experimentation and lots of bent needles. There are few devices that can match the awesome clapping and clanging sound of a Union Lockstitch machine sewing at full speed!

I use left and right toe zipper feet, depending on the nature of the job.

The 105-64 will be useful to you as long as you are sewing at least 1/8 inch of material with #138 or larger thread, using a #22 or larger needle. Also, your projects will have tooth marks on the bottom. If your jobs meet these minimums, the Adler may be a good investment (as long as it doesn't need expensive replacement parts).

This machine has been discussed on Leatherworker.net. Use your favorite search engine to search for this term: site: leatherworker.net adler 105-64

Sometimes you can lookup a Singer serial number and it will tell you the model number and how many were built on a particular date.

@Damas Welcome to Leatherworker.net and the Leather Sewing Machines forum. I see you are having trouble uploading your photos to your post. There is a rather small file size limit per photo so you may have to reduce the photos considerably to upload them. There are a number of online and offline programs that can reduce both the dimensions and quality to bring down the file size to under our limit. I recommend FastStone Photo Resizer. Sometimes you have to transfer photos from a phone or tablet to a computer to place them on a forum like ours. Try that after reducing their sizes.

You may be better off buying a Consew 206RB-5 than a Juki DNU-1541. Some buyers have reported repeated problems with that Juki model (problem 1, problem 2, problem 3).

Metwar would be a German brand name from yesteryear (Metwar is now Groz Beckert). #200 is the same as a US #25 needle. It is the size needed to sew with #277 bonded thread, or 4 cord linen thread, top and bottom.