Wizcrafts

Perhaps, if you knew where these motors are designed and manufactured, your expectations would become less theoretical and more along the lines of: "Thank God when I pull the lever down - the motor turns faster the farther I pull it and it doesn't explode." As for any thought you have about bugging the builders of the popular servo motors, we don't need another Sew Pro 500GR incident. Buyers and dealers complained about case warping problems that came from a redesign of their motor. They chose to close the company rather than fix the problem.

The side seams look like pleats, as in curtain pleats. The pleats may be held in place by the top construction, or an interior stiffener.

On all the servo motors I have and have had, the speed increases with movement on the control lever, not the force applied to the lever. The lever is held back by a spring that is just strong enough to let it return to the off position when the floor pedal is released. I don't know how many micro-ergs of force are involved in moving these levers, but it can be done by hand if a foot is unavailable.

@turbotexas You can gain insight from Lisa Sorrell's YouTube channel (It's a Boot Life) on boot making and her machines. She demonstrates insole and outsole stitching techniques. Lisa is also one of our advertisers for her boot making classes.

Okay, you have to sew the bag inside out, then trim the seams and pull it the outside out. Then drop in the assembled lining and top stitch it to the top of the bag, or just below the zipper chain. You will need to use a big tailor's scissors or a sharp pointed blade knife to cut slits or wedges in the seams that turn corners. If the bag is going to be piped, add the piping between the inside out layers and sew the package together. Other considerations are to use matching colors of thread on either side. If the outside is cream leather, use straw/cream color thread to sew the seams. If any thread shows through a seam, it will blend in. If the lining is a contrasting color, use that color on the bobbin thread as you sew in the lining to the top. I see that they used a twin needle machine to sew the bottom seams down. This is double-felled seams. You sew the bottom seams with the outside together, about 1/2 inch in. Then separate the seams and tape or glue them down butterfly style. Then flip the bottom over and use a twin needle machine to top stitch the felled/flattened seams. You can gain intelligence by purchasing top brand purses from thrift shops and disassemble them. Reverse engineer the purses to the best of your ability. You can get decent hardware from Ohio Travelbag.

That makes sense for the insole/welt. Puritan only produces machines to order now. They can't sew the outsole on a boot with two needles because they have straight needles and awls. There would only be room for one row of stitching on the outsole. There is a lot of danger of hitting the upper with a straight needle. I have resewn soles on my Cowboy CB4500, with the inline foot set, and you have to pull the upper leather away from the machine as you sew to avoid scratching it with the feet or needle. This (outsole stitching) is really the domain of curved needle machines (single row only)! Most bootmakers and shoe repair shops have a Landis 12F or 12G curved needle and awl lockstitch machine. Others use a Frobana/Gritzner, or Junker and Ruh hand-cranked curved needle only machine.

The insole was sewn on a chainstitch McKay stitcher and the outsole was sewn with a curved needle and awl lockstitch sole stitcher. Both only sew one stitch line at a time, with one needle and one awl.

Landis and McKay stitchers are needle and awl machines that sew one row of stitches. The OP is hunting for a Pegasus type sole stitcher that sews two parallel rows, like the Puritans do on show and boot UPPERS. To do two rows, one would need to find a custom builder, or have a Puritan post machine altered by a skilled machinist. If anybody sells a twin needle/awl sole stitcher, it would be one of the Canadian or German industrial sewing machine dealers. I was looking at shoe sole and edge stitching machines on a German website last week but can't figure out the spelling of their name.

Nope. That would require two needles, two awls and two bobbins. The Landis and Champion sole stitchers have one of each. They sew around the outside perimeter of the sole, upside down, just missing the uppers. There is no room for two rows of thread in that very narrow space. OTOH, I have seen two and three rows of stitching on the uppers (e.g., Redwing boots). Is that what you are looking to do? Puritan Industries makes multiple needle and awl chainstitch machines that do that.

That's reasonable. Bear in mind that none of the common industrial sewing machines are holster machines. They are usually either garment or upholstery machines. Garment machines don't feed leather well and don't handle heavier weights of thread. Upholstery machines usually have triple feed walking feet and can handle #138 thread (22 pounds test). Real leather sewing machines, those that can sew holsters, start at #138 thread and go up. Used ones can often be found in our Marketplace section.

This is what I use to sew holsters that can hold up to rigorous use. I use #277 bonded thread with a #25 needle for anything over 1/4 inch thick. Each stitch has about 44 pounds breaking strength. Anything less is asking for trouble, or is not meant for carrying outside of a pocket.

The normal size, triple feed, Cowboy and Cobra walking foot machines use Singer 111 type feet, as do most upholstery grade walking foot machines. However, once you cross over into the holster and harness grade machines, the feet are totally different. Most industrial sewing machine dealers don't deal in these large, specialized machines and may not have the special feet they require. I am referring to the "441 clones" like the CB3200, CB3500, CB4500, Cobra Class 4 and Techsew 5100. They are cloned from the super-expensive, made in Japan, Juki TSC-441. Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew sell all available feet for their machines. If you don't want to buy from them, that leaves Juki as a source. Ask your nearest Juki dealer for a price for a set of feet for the TSC-441 model. They will likely be special order only as this is a rarely sold machine.

I found a glove post bed sewing machine video!

It looks like that edge guide is for a Pfaff machine. I found this listing for it, but no picture. https://www.schmetzneedles.co.uk/99-116086-23-edge-guide-pfaff

I know somebody locally who bought one of these sidewall sewers from Robin. I will ask for her impressions of it and post them if given permission.

I think that due to the high cost of industrial, especially leather capable industrial sewing machines, that few people can afford to buy competing brands and assess them for nothing more than shits and giggles. Without some form of reward, it makes no sense to invest in competing brands simply to do online reviews. With a reward, there goes impartiality. Brand A might offer a full package of accessories and Applebee's coupons to a reviewer for a better assessment over brand B. Not yet mentioned is the fact that some the dealers selling the top brands discussed here are run by a couple of people and not a large company. These few good men are usually busy assembling and adjusting machines, then getting them shipped, from the time they open until they can finally shut the door and go home. This doesn't leave time for video reviews.

I find that a #22 needle doesn't cut if in veg-tan, with #138 thread top and bottom. It really takes a #23/160 needle to open up enough hole to pull the knots up between the layers. OTOH, a #22/140 can hide the bottom knots in soft chap or motorcycle seat leather. And, order leather points for leather and round points for cloth and vinyl.

That combination should be #138 thread using a #23 needle for leather, or a #22 needle for cloth or vinyl.

Ditto!

Try to operate it with your feet before investing in any motor. The conversion will be complex because treadle bases aren't setup for industrial motors. My 30-7 is mounted on a steel power stand and has both a clutch motor and a speed reducer, which freewheel once I lightly press on the floor pedal. Turning on the motor makes it easier to spin the hand wheel on the front.

Is your machine mounted on a power stand, or a treadle stand?

Then make sure it has a releasable brake when you begin to move the speed pedal, or no brake at all. If it already has a clutch motor, I advise leaving it on. It is usually much easier to control the brake release on a clutch motor than a servo motor (I have both types on various machines). Since patchers are often hand wheeled, you don't want to have to fight the action of a motor to spin the hand wheel for precise stitching.

I have one important tip for you: HOLD BACK THE STARTING THREADS! That's all.

Without a doubt, you should consider a Consew 206RB-5, or equivalent. Read the specs in the right sidebar.

I was thinking about the gears having come loose, but stopped because I thought there might be a clutch. Hopefully, the hook drive shaft is keyed for the ring gear. Timing it will be a fun job for someone new to this kind of machine. Just a tip. Orrrmygod, if you are within driving or shipping distance of a knowledgeable industrial sewing machine dealer, they might could replace the worn screws, tighten everything down and retime the machine to get it sewing again.