Wizcrafts

It is a known fact that the darker the color, the more twisty bonded thread usually is. Black bonded nylon is the worst because it is often double dyed (first dark blue, then black), then bonded. The thicker the thread, the more like a coil spring it can be. The same size thread in white and straw color may be soft and feed perfectly straight off the spool.

That NS8100, with automatic motor and positioning controls is upwards of $12,000, or more. There are no prices on the website because all their machines are built to order.

The original topic being referenced pertained to sewing shoe outsoles with two rows of stitching. While the Puritan machines can be built to sew close to the shoe upper, it is still a chainstitch machine, which is not suitable for sewing shoe soles. If the chain is on the bottom it is bound to get broken after walking on sidewalks and paved lots. Chainstitches that are broken can unravel. Even if the broken stitch is waxed to stay in place, the appearance is not commercially acceptable to the general public. That's why you see lockstitches on shoe soles. There is a use for chainstitch machines on shoe insoles and uppers. Redwing uses them to sew those components. The insole chainstitches are covered with the insole lining or pad to keep them from rubbing against the bottom of your foot. The side and upper stitches are done with thin thread that produces a very tight chainstitch on the inside that doesn't rub the side of your foot. BTW: $1200 is a very good price for that new style (NS) Puritan. New machines of that ilk cost thousands of dollars, with some exceeding $12,000.

What you want is the Robin SP168 Sidewall Stitcher.

I found this to be true on both of my Union Lockstitch machines. I adjusted the needle feed block as tight as possible without binding, in two axis. Even with this tight needle positioning, there were times and circumstances when the needle missed the hole and started pushing the leather up. Also, some leather and non-leather tends to close up on the bottom as the awl withdraws, making it harder for the needle to penetrate the hole. So, a full size larger awl helps the needle do its thing with difficult leather, or Biothane.

This is a wrong combination. Nylon thread is already lubricated. The tensioners on needle and awl machines need to get a good grip on the thread to pull up the knots. They were designed with linen thread in mind. The silicon makes the thread slippery, which throws off the tensioners' affect. The wax pot is for liquid wax, not silicon. Further, nylon is not recommended as a dry thread in these machines. If you must use bonded thread, use bonded polyester. It is already lubricated. Believe it or not, you can still buy linen thread for needle and awl machines. It is distributed by Campbell-Randall, in Texas, under two varieties: Hungarian Linen and Barbour's Irish Linen Thread. I strongly recommend Barbour's because it is cleaner. The Hungarian thread had all manner of loose fragments protruding from the twisted thread. While liquid beeswax would smooth them down, Campbell's Lax Wax did not. Barbour's Irish linen is the best I have ever used, albeit you will need to back way off on the tensions.

You might try getting in touch with Puritan Industries to see if they have some Ceroxylon wax left for sale. It is clear and water soluble, until it hardens. They shipped a sample quart to me in 2011 for use in my last Union Lockstitch machine. Otherwise, they sold it is gallons and larger.

Bobbins, needles and shuttles are available for all 29 series patchers. Prewound bobbins are also still available, but hard to find. The small ones are sold by the gross. You are missing a tapered pin that holds the needle bar to the take-up barrel. That pin is sold in the aftermarket.

I used to own a Juki LU-563, with reverse. It was never able to match the holes in reverse, so I did Poor Man's Reverse to lock the stitches. That means rotate the work 180 degrees and sew over the last three or four stitches. The 563 uses a double capacity Juki LU bobbin. Mine was able to sew at least 1/4 inch of veg-tan and was also used to sew vinyl reflective safety vests with edge binding, all day long at times. It uses up to #138 thread, which is adequate for a 3/16 inch thick leather belt. Anything thicker would call for #207 thread, which may be beyond the 563's ability to properly tension and clear the hook (maybe it can be tweaked to pass that diameter thread).

I'll see if I can get our member, @gottaknow to read this topic. He is a machine mechanic in a major West coast sewing factory and works with all types of industrial sewing machines.

Okay, I remember how I finished sewing with no extra holes. When edge stitching I would turn the belt, strap, whatever, sideways so that the awl came down outside the leather as the take-up mechanism peaked at the top, locking in the last stitch inside the last hole.

I had a trick I learned to finish sewing in the last hole. I'll try to remember it and get back to you. It's been 8 years since I sold my second ULS.

What total thickness will these gun belts be? Are you using veg-tan leather, bridle leather, or Latigo?

You may need to buy a parts machine to get those shafts.

That's awesome. Congratulations! The needle and awl machines produce some of the best stitches that can be made.

A #140 needle is WAY too big for T70 thread. I recommend using a #110 needle with that thread size.

No problem. I don't know where else one would go to discuss those machines.

The 29k machines are for patching shoes, boots, vests and other small items that need short runs of stitching with thin thread. They are good for a little over 1/4 to 5/16 inch of leather, but the stitches get shorter at this height than at 1/8 inch and less. 45k models have various drive systems. Most can sew at least 3/8 inch and use much heavier thread and needles than the 29 series. Triple feed walking foot machines are for upholstery, zippers, aprons, vests, pouches and cases. They usually max out at 3/8 inch with #138 thread.

I think that this topic has come to a natural conclusion. I am locking it up to avoid any further deterioration.

Alexander knows his stuff. He not only sells machines, but also sews on them professionally. His advice about the CB3200 is spot on. You are going to need one machine for light, thin work - with small needles and thread, and another for heavy, thick work with big needles and thread. That is my experience.

The Cobra Class 20 is listed as capable of tensioning #207 thread. That is doable by spacing the hook far enough away from the needle to let that size thread pass around the hook and bobbin case. I have a post bed machine that was adjusted to sew with #207 thread, so I know it is doable. But, sewing 1/2 inch of veg-tan leather with #207 thread is something that's not as simple as it seems. Each layer of 8 ounce leather adds to the density of the package that needs to be penetrated and then held down as the threaded needle ascends, carrying the overlocked bobbin thread with it. This is where problems manifest themselves when you try to sew thicker than the machine is setup to handle efficiently. The holding down part is done by a coil pressure spring. That spring would have to be as strong as the ones used in the Cobra Class 3 and 4 to keep the leather stack from lifting with the needle. Lifting leather, due to insufficient spring pressure, causes skipped stitches, bent and broken needles, needles stuck inside the leather and varying stitch lengths. These problems can occur with 3/8 inch of veg-tan too. I would ask for a demonstration of the machine sewing 24 ounces, or more, of veg-tan leather, with a #24 needle and #207 thread, top and bottom. Those are the minimum needle/thread requirements for such a stack of leather. Personally, I use at least #277, or #346 thread when I sew over 3/8 inch of veg-tan leather, or Latigo. This requires a #25 or #26 needle! And, I have to crank down the pressure screw to keep the thick stack of leather with thick knots from lifting on my CB4500 or my buddy's Class 4. Just my .02

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Yep; anti-backlash bobbin basket spring.

I found a Reliable 4000SW walking foot machine listed on Amazon, complete with specs, motor and table, price, questions and answers. It looks to be a pretty standard walking foot machine, meaning it uses thread sizes 69 through 138 and needles from #16 through #23 or perhaps #24. It is definitely not a holster sewing machine, but will sew belts, guitar straps, rifle slings, garments, wallets, backpacks, phone pouches and the like. Other than that, I have no experience with the machine. It is priced similarly to the Consew 206RB-5.

Honestly, these little motors don't have enough startup torque to overcome the weight of the large flywheel on my patcher. I had to spin the wheel with my hand to get it moving. Once in motion the motor could keep it sewing until I stopped the wheel.