Wizcrafts

It sure looks like the post screws need to be loosened, then unclamp something underneath holding the gears in place, then move the entire post to the right until the hook clears the needle. This movement might change the hook to needle timing slightly, maybe for the better.

What type of feet came with your Cobra 26? Post a picture of them. If your machine uses standard Singer 111 style feet, buy a wide outside foot, or a complete extra wide inside and outside set. The wider the footprint, the less it digs into the leather. There are dozens of different presser feet for standard walking foot machines based upon the Singer 111w155. Second, try backing off the top pressure screw. It only needs enough spring pressure to hold down the leather until the needle has cleared it on the way up. Less foot pressure results in less marking. If none of the above work, try taping a thin piece of hard leather next to the left side of the stitch line. This will act as a buffer between the outer foot and top grain and won't interfere with your edge guide on the right. If you are using a right toe foot, tape the buffer piece on the right side of the stitch line. Leave enough clearance for the inside foot to make full contact with the top grain.

There was a discussion about this model during 2016, in this topic. Maybe it will answer your questions about this long obsolete machine with many parts made of unobtainium.

Call your technician and tell him that he sold you the wrong part. It should be on the installer to install a correct part.

It looks like nobody has yet told you that Ferdco is long out of business. There is a sewing machine dealer in Chicago that bought some of their remaining stock. But, you probably won't find any authentic, official support for these machines. They modified the mechanisms on various Bull models and some parts were custom made by Ferdco.

You can buy a brand new Consew P-1206rb for under a thousand dollars. It is similar to the 206 mechanism, but is self oiling and lacks the safety clutch button. If you remember to hold back the starting threads and maintain proper threading and top tension you won't need a safety clutch.

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This machine is a clone of the ancient Singer 16-188. It is a dual (top/bottom) feed walking foot machine with a Class 15 bobbin and tensioning system. Excellent type of machine for sewing denim, marine vinyl and outdoor fabrics. Fine for chrome tanned leather up to about 5/16 inch. Not for use on veg-tan unless you plan to rub out or stamp over the tooth marks.

I would add that if one of the sellers is willing to give you some instructions for operating the machine and the other isn't, buy the machine that has personal instructions. Non-sewers can make serious, costly mistakes on industrial sewing machines. Some mistakes can land you in the ER. Others can require professional servicing.

KGG already mentioned a few things to check for excessive wear. The things that really affect performance are an overly loose needle bar, feed dog, stitch regulator, reverse hold down spring (on the 226) and the crank shafts inside the head (incl take-up lever). Other areas of concern are the shuttle and shuttle driver and belt from top to bottom. If the belt is too far worn the timing can be erratic.

135x17 are round points meant to penetrate cloth. They tend to heat up and stick inside veg-tan leather and squeak until that happens.

Try them both out. If one feels easier to use, or sounds tighter, go with it. Both designs are valid. But, if they both have a lot of slack and are noisy, you may want to avoid inheriting somebody else's troubles.

Try to buy a pack each of diamond and triangle points. They make a different type of hole than the slanted wedge points.

This is the servo motor I use. I order them from this seller refitted with a smaller than standard 2" pulley. They also sell speed reducers that slow the machines down another 2:1 or 3:1. If you install a 3:1 reducer you won't be able to speed up much on straightaways.

Assuming the machine is really threaded correctly, the needle may be a size too small for this particular leather. Get yourself some #23/160 needles and the holes should be large enough to get pulled into the leather. Note that some thread is stiffer than usual making it harder to pull the knots up. Veg-tan leather takes a lot more tension to pull the knots up if the hole clearance is marginal. Some leather points work better than others in dense leather. Try some DI or TRI points.

You have stated that it is your hope to be hired to move here and work as a leather crafter for a US or Canadian company. Most leather work here is done by self employed individuals who sell their work in craft stores, flea markets, antiques shops, or online (e.g., Etsy). You are unlikely to be hired in advance to work in North America and paid to move here from Vietnam. The paperwork involved is enormous, costly and time consuming, with no guarantee you would be allowed to emigrate here, or even be granted a work visa. You need to consult with the US Consulate, or an immigration lawyer in Vietnam before attempting to come here to pursue a career that is usually a solo job. In the meantime, there is nothing to lose by looking into setting up an Etsy store and a PayPal account, if they even allow payments to residents of Vietnam.

#18 needles are more likely to deflect and break than #19. I use #19 on machines with #92 (T90) thread (top and bottom). I know that a #18 needle produces a tighter hole and might resort to using one for a particular job where the knots could move with a #19. I would be very careful while sewing to avoid deflections. Breaking needles on industrial sewing machines can be like mini-IEDs. Sewing face up probably refers to sewing on the top grain, or outer side (e.g., wallet back), as opposed to sewing from the inside out (e.g., wallet interior side). The top side (needle entry) always looks nicer than the bottom (needle exit) on a typical sewing machine.

How many industrial sewing machines are on those shelves? I couldn't ell from the photos.

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Your personal collection?

Plus 1 on this reply!

Try cutting off a half inch of the belt and punch a new #0 hole and clamp it together. The belt will eventually stretch out a little but will have better grip until then. There is a solution sold at auto parts stores that can be sprayed or brushed onto v-belts to avoid slippage and squeal. Something called "Belt No Slip" or the likes.

If you truly need to sew 5/8 inch thickness, go for the full size, high lift CB4500, or equivalent. I have one and have sewn over 3/4 inch with it, using #346 thread. Get a common upholstery class compound feed walking foot machine for your wallets and belts. There are many makes and models that fit the bill, including the venerable old Singer 111 series, various Consew, Seiko, Chandler, Juki, Pfaff, Adler, etc. The upholstery machines can sew from ~3 ounces up to about 3/8 inch, using thread sizes bonded 69 through 138..

Somebody sold a Thompson mini walking foot machine for $300. Here is the ad for it. I'd guess that your Mini-Brute is the same machine with a different name tag.