Wizcrafts

On the post machines, I believe you move the posts apart when you change the needle spacing. This will be tricky and may not even be doable if the needle bar or clamp cannot be changed. This is old tech.

When you sew fast the thread flops around the take-up area more so than at slow speeds. You may have to adjust the check spring setting, or lengthen the throw of the spring by moving the stop bracket down. Consult your owners' manual to see these parts.

What brand and model is your post machine?

Even I can't find a Singer 153 walking foot machine for sale at an affordable price in the USA and I live here. They were all sent into Outer Space in Elon Musk's Tesla Roadster space car.

Weaver Leather?

Like what models?

I have a Singer 31-15 that handles up to #69 bonded nylon thread and sews up to 1/4 inch of compressed material (not leather). It can sew wallet interiors made of thin pigskin or calf skin. If converted into a roller foot machine it can sew Chrome Excel shoe uppers. It doesn't like veg-tan leather at all. The pressure and tension springs aren't strong enough for veg. The Singer 31-15 and 96k40 are both tailoring and dressmaking machines. It can be used to do decorative stitching on shoe and boot uppers before they are assembled.

Yes and no. A new topic is actually the correct designation. The difference is that the designation "thread" usually refers to an ongoing topic with many replies. A new topic that has no replies is not actually a thread in that sense of the meaning. I refer to a new topic as a new topic, or new post. Once a discussion is underway, it becomes a (not new) thread. Hope that explains it adequately!

I buy most of my thread here. It is sold in matching colors across multiple sizes. For instance, straw color matches from #69 through #346. They stock 69, 92, 138, 207 and 277 in most primary colors and several shades of brown.

I use #69 thread on wallet interiors that are up to 4 ounces thickness. I move up to #92 thread for 5 to 8 ounces. I use #138 thread for 8 to 10 ounces. As a reference, #69 thread has a breaking strength of 11 pounds. Number 92 has about 15 pounds strength and #138 has 22 pounds test. I usually sew wallet interiors with #69 and combine them to the back with #92.

CowboySew already makes a synchronized binder attachment for their CB4500 and related machines. Ask Bob Kovar for the details.

Yeah, by almost a half inch more length. They are pretty much unique to the Adler long throw patch machines. I have a buddy with an Adler 30-70 and all he uses are #24 needles. Unfortunately, he can't spare any. No biggy.

I need some size 24 (Metric 180) leather point System 332 LLG needles. If any of you have some you can spare, shoot me a PM please. They are for an Adler 30-7 or 70, long throw patcher. My largest on hand are #23/160. I occasionally run #207 thread in my Adler patcher and a #23 needle causes some shredding of the bonding.

Your first and simplest upgrade should be to buy a Family Sew type of servo motor with a 2" (50mm) pulley downgrade (it comes with a 70mm pulley). Our supporting dealers have these specialty pulleys in stock. You will also need a shorter type 3L v-belt to go from the new motor and smaller pulley to the machine. If all goes well you should be able to at least control the speed of the machine. Low speed torque may suffer until you add a speed reducer.

Not all sewing machines lend themselves to pulley upgrades on the output shaft. Some models have the stitch length adjustment built into the handwheel. These cannot be replaced with a bigger wheel.

What ever are you talking about? This topic was about older Consew 206rb machines with clutch motors and large aftermarket pulleys on the top shafts.

That remains to be seen! These new patchers are clones of the Singer 29k series, which was pretty much perfected by Simanco. I have an Adler patcher that far exceeds the sewing capacity of my Singer patcher. It is a horse of a different color.

I read some comments about this particular machine and the one that stood out was from Bob Kovar, years ago. He pointed out that the flywheel pulley is quite narrow compared to a model 111 and was made that way for higher speeds when sewing long seat covers, banners and the like. Unless you have driven a clutch car recently, you may not be able to feather it to a controllable speed. It will sew flat out at 2000 rpm or more, depending on the size of the motor pulley. Changes will need to be made. Slowing down old beasts involves changing to a modern servo motor and probably adding a 2:1 or 3:1 speed reducer (plus 2 new v-belts). These will cost you at least $300.

Yes, for upholstery.

You may have to loosen all the parts on the presser bar and start over. That's what I did on two of my machines based on the 111w103/153 series. They don't lift as high as the w155.

tt would sew pocket holsters. That is an upholstery grade sewing machine, good for no more than #138 bonded thread.

There are different coil springs available for these machines. My stock spring is much weaker than the heavy duty I obtained down the line. That extra heavy spring always leaves an impression if it is engaged at all. Maybe the OP's machine has that E.H. spring installed.

The basic rotational setup has the inside foot making contact with the throat plate at the same time as the tip of the needle. As the wheel turns, the outer foot lifts as the needle and inside foot move the material. At the end of the stroke, the needle comes out, the outer foot drops down and the feed dog drops down and moves forward. Do you see these four motions? There will be a means of balancing the ratio or amount of lift of the two feet, somewhere on the back or on top.

These binder parts may cost almost as much as the machine itself!

Back off the pressure on the spring over the foot to the least amount needed to feed the leather and hold it down as the thread and needle rise up. There are a few alternate presser feet for actual Singer patchers, some of which are less aggressive than others. No matter what you do to the presser foot on a patcher, it still must have enough grab to pull the work to form stitches. Tooth marks on veg-tan are just an accespted part of owning a patch machine. The teeth don't mark chrome tan shoe uppers like veg-tan. These machines were designed to sew shoe and boot uppers.