Wizcrafts

You might want to keep your eyes peeled for a needle and awl harness stitcher. They were built during a time frame when waxed linen thread was the normal thread.

Folks started complaining to the makers of the now-defunct Sew Pro 500GR servo motors (I have one of the last ones) about problems with casing changes they made in the second generation. They were in China and decided to go to lunch to discuss what to do. They never returned from lunch.

You can run waxed thread through a 441 clone, but it is going to gum up everything it rides across, including the eye of the needle. You will need to keep Goof Off by the machine to clean the rollers, guides and needle after each sewing job. The needles will need to be one size larger than normally used for the diameter of thread you use. See this thread and needle chart for a reference. If you really want to sew with waxed linen thread, get a Union Lockstitch or Campbell-Randall, or Landis 3, or 16, or a Landis 12 series shoe outsole stitcher. These machines are meant to sew with wax and keep on going. They still need cleaning, but the barbed needles are less likely to gum up. I learned to operate a Union Lockstitch in about 1 week. Mastering it took a lot longer.

No sir, not without a huge amount of custom building/modifying of an industrial k-legs table and proper cutout rectangle, with an oil pan. That is a portable dual feed walking foot machine with a self contained motor system. It is what it is.

Two of my servo motors (different brands) do the same thing (no power at turn over speed, or too high a workable speed). It is a manufacturing defect, or resistor/electronics tolerance issue. The only recourse is to try another motor (ask the dealer to test it before shipping it), or live with it.

I bet you didn't know that there is an adjustment for the brake on the right end of the motor. There is a big hex head bolt in front of the output shaft that screws into the housing. You can loosen the locknut, then turn the bolt in or out to adjust the amount of slack the pedal has before the brake lets go and the clutch engages. In order to get the most range of pedal throw, tighten up the spring loaded thumbnut on the right end of the activating lever under the motor. If the spring action is backed off the lever will hang lower and won't have much movement before the clutch activates.

Have or can you measure the voltage at the outlet where you plugged in the motor?

That is the model I sewed on.

Different densities and thicknesses.

The new outside foot may be rubbing against the inside foot, causing the hangup. It could be twisted slightly due to a manufacturing issue. I have purchased aftermarket feet that were misaligned. The original feet would have been installed by the dealer and they made sure they were inline and not rubbing. If the feet aren't misaligned, the new foot could be wider inside, causing it to grab the inside foot at a certain lift position. Adding more foot pressure overcomes slight misalignment.

There is money in making and pleating drapes.

Take the needle out every now and then and feel the tip with a fingertip. If you feel a burr, toss it out. If you are down to your last needle, pull it across Emory cloth to de-burr it, then polish it on a piece of veg-tan leather that has jewelers' rouge on it (like you strop a carving knife blade). Vinyl is trivial to penetrate and pull lockstitch knots into, even with undersize needles. Leather is not. You will almost always need more top tension, or less bobbin tension, or a bigger needle to bury the knots inside leather. The denser or thicker the leather, the larger the needle, or higher the top facing tension needs to be upped.

Call Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397) and ask if he has some in stock. I've been to his shop and am here to tell you there be needles there!

It may have been the reverse lever that raised up. It's been almost 3 decades since I last saw that machine. It definitely caused the stitch length to shorten as the speed increased.

As a former owner of a Juki LU-563, I suggest that you try sewing (threaded or unthreaded) at high speed (floor it) and watch the stitch length lever to see if it moves up on its own. If it does, your stitch length will vary with the speed you are sewing at. It can be fixed, but requires at least removing the lever and its graduated mounting plate to gain access to the spring or springs that counterbalance the lever.

I used to use a Singer bartacker at a part time sewing job I had in the early 1990s. The machine made the most awesome CLANG at the end of each cycle, which lasted about 1 second! It is very difficult to remove items that have been bartacked on.

I simply passed along my experience where the original shipping box and Styrofoam packaging was ineffective at protecting the fragile machine from a drop along the way. Industrial sewing machines are usually shipped strapped onto pallets, with wooden a protective box around the head, with the hand wheel removed to protect the back of the machine from rough handling damage. Industrial sewing machines and tables are usually shipped fully insured.

I bought one of those odd name portable walking foot machines off an eBay private seller a few years ago. The box was dropped on the way and the machine was hopelessly jammed and inoperable and I couldn't free up the main shaft. The seller tried to refuse to take it back and I had to go into arbitration to get some of my money back. So, anybody contemplating buying one should add insurance if offered for the full amount of the machine, plus shipping. Chances are very high that the box will be dropped and the plastic housing will crack, or main shaft will get pushed too far to fix it.

They should. I would use one size larger needle than the minimum recommended combination on this thread and needle chart.

Holes can be smoothed with round abrasive cord that's sold on metal 2 piece rolls by tool supply businesses. It comes in various diameters.

Negatory Red Rider. A #150 needle is about equal to a #22.5. It lies between a #22 and a #23 in diameter.

Size 150 needles are perfect for #138 thread in leather!

Upload some photos of your clutch purse, Renata.

Get left toe and right toe zipper foot sets, welting feet for whatever diameter welts you might want to sew into seats and bags (1/4 inch is average) and spring edge guide feet for 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" from the needle. Buy matching colors of thread in all sizes your machine supports. I usually buy two of each so I can wind a matching color spare bobbin as I sew. Get a quart of oil and a couple of small precision oilers to load up. Get packs of needles to match the thread sizes you buy. I recommend sizes 18, 19, 20, 22 and 23. If you plan to sew mostly leather, get leather point needles. Round points are for cloth and webbing. Thread snips are a must have and are cheap. Get a dozen empty bobbins. Make sure you get a bright flex light. That's all.

I prefer a #23 needle with #138 thread, top and bottom.