Wizcrafts

@katit None of my multitudinous Singer sewing machines have reverse. I just spin the work 180 degrees to sew through the previous stitch holes and they line up perfectly. If turning the work it not practical, I just tie off the threads on the back and burn the stubs.

The modification for your motor is a small strip of thin translucent material that has graduated density across the width, running from transparent to dark. It needs to be taped onto the rotating shaft inside the motor assembly to interfere between the light beam and light sensor. Contact Cobra Steve to obtain the filter, which includes instructions. Or, ask him about upgrading to a better controlled motor. The bobbin case is removable and replaceable. But, a whole assembled shuttle is easier to replace.

As a guide, 5mm stitch length is about 5 stitches per inch (25.4mm). That is the ideal stitch length for upholstery, although a longer 6mm would do on some non-critical seams. Anything longer that 4 per inch is inefficient for seat covers. As for resale value of the P-1206R, it is too new to have a known value. This machine sells for about a thousand dollars new. Used one year, it might fetch $500 or $600. The pump in this machine is more efficient than on high speed straight stitch machines.

The closest manual I found covers the Singer 29k62, which is the same generation machine. Get the manual here.

You were supposed to get a foot speed control pedal with the machine. Contact the seller about this. Otherwise, you will have to find a compatible electronic foot pedal that connects to the motor's power socket (between motor and AC source. The motor, floor pedal and double AC socket assemblies are usually sold as a package for about 50 bucks and up. Better motors and controllers can run you a hundred bucks and up.

Are you sure? Did you mean to type: system 134-35?

Automotive leather seating and trim is virtually 100% chrome tanned, unless it is a special order, hand made, carved seat or arm rest cover. That would be the only time veg tan would be used in the "industry." Chrome tanned leather is usually color fast for a very long time (decades), as opposed to veg tan which is UV sensitive. I moved your topic to a more appropriate forum that deals with dyes, finishes and such things.

Walking foot machines using system 135x16 needles can't sew much over 3/8" (~10 - 11 mm). This limit is imposed by the up/down stroke of the needle and alternating height of the feet. When you are sewing 3/8 inch (10mm), the feet need to alternate up and down about 1/8 inch (~3mm). In Metric-speak, that's about 13mm. In order to sew thicker than 3/8", you need a Pfaff model that allows for higher alternating (working) lift and longer , System 190 needles. These needles are about 3/16" longer than System 135.

No. Cloth walking foot machines usually (but not always) have lighter tension springs and bobbin case springs. The take-up parts may not be as beefy either. Hooks tend to be M or LU style in dedicated leather walking foot machines, which are normally triple/compound feed, rather than dual feed (with teeth) as preferred for transporting cloth. Reasons why Cloth sewing is normally done with light weight cotton, polyester, or polycore thread that is thinner and much more fragile than bonded nylon or bonded polyester. The walking foot machines used in garment construction are usually run flat out at about 2500 rpm, or faster. Some have sump pumps with automatic oilers that need to be run fast. The thinner, fragile threads used in them need to have gentle tension paths and light springs. Sometimes the top thread is run through liquid silicon in a jar on top of the machine. If the work generates too much heat, compressed air tubes may be installed to cool the needles, which may be made with titanium or black Teflon coating.

Did you search this section of the forum, or entire site, or did you search from within a different section of LWN?

All I can tell you is that the machine was made in Japan and is what we call a shoe patcher. It is used to sew the uppers on boots and shoes, or to fix purses, or to sew decorative patches onto motorcycle vests and jackets. That said, I am moving this to the Leather Sewing Machines forum. You will have a better chance of getting help there.

The dye may be separating from the carrier. Did you shake the bottle before applying the dye? That may help reconstitute the dye. If that doesn't help you could contact the seller about returning it (good luck on an opened dye). Otherwise, write "Gray" on the bottle and buy another bottle of chocolate dye from a different supplier.

You can get a CB4500 here. You will need to call on the phone to place an order.

I use a Cowboy CB4500. It has a smooth feed dog and triple feed, plus a 16 inch arm. It sews from about 6 ounces up to about 7/8 of an inch. Please don't ask what that is in Metric.

You can buy the correct thread from Campbell-Randall, in Texas. It is Barbour's Irish Linen, left twist thread. They make and sell "Lax Wax" for use in their machines. Linen thread is available in 3 through 7 cords. You must use the right combination of needle and awl whenever you change thread sizes. If you try to sew with 6 cord and the barbed needle is designed for 4 cord, the thread will get ratted by the barb. The awl must be between 1/2 and 1 size larger than the needle.

This sudden tightening of the top thread can be caused if the thread is wrapping under other windings on the spool, or is falling under the spool, or twisting around a thread guide on the thread stand. Clean all of the guides along the thread path. There may be old hardened wax from the previous owner. These machines were meant to use liquid beeswax in a pot and linen thread.

I spent some time at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines on Wednesday afternoon picking up a post machine. He has a Merrow edging machine for sale in the main machine room. I don't know the model number or price. If you want you can call Bob Kovar Sr.and ask about it. The business number is: 866-362-7397

The Merrow I linked to is not for patches. It is for blanket edges and related materials, like furs.

Merrow overlock machines are the real deal and can be very very expensive new or rebuilt. If you can get a used one privately, for a reasonable price, more power to you.

I believe you are looking for a twin needle Coverstitch machine. These are often used to finish the edges of carpeting. It is a ramped up serger on steroids that can produce a very wide and deep stitch needed to cover the edge of carpeting using heavy cotton or polycore thread (e.g., button hole thread, linen thread, jeans thread, etc). Also, the pattern is different across the outer edge. Ask your industrial sewing machine dealer if they have one you can try out. This job is too intense for a common serger. You need a carpet coverstitch machine.

Ken, is it a jump foot, needle feed machine, minus the inside alternating foot?

If money is really not an issue, ask your Adler approved dealer about the new Adler 869. I played with that machine at a place called Weaver Leather, in the USA. It is unreal! It can handle up to #207 thread. The lift ratio of the alternating feet can be changed by turning a big knob on top of the machine.

You should test sew on the machines you are looking at. Buy some thread and bring a sample wallet to test on the machine. The dealer should have any size of needle in stock, up to a #23.

Doh! I misunderstood you and mistook millimeters for ounces. I thought you meant the total thickness at the seams was 2 ounces. That would be like the interiors I make out of thin calf skin or pig skin. If the total sewing thickness is 4-5 ounces, use #92 thread. For 10-12 ounces, use #138, using a #22 or #23 needle. The density of the leather will dictate the minimum needle size.

The Cowboy Outlaw is brand new on the market. It is just reaching the dealers now.