Wizcrafts

In a nutshell, bonded nylon in size #69 / T70 is about twice the thickness of common cotton garment thread sold at Joann Fabrics stores. It would probably be about 1/8th or 1/10th the thickness of common hand sewing thread. The actual decimal diameter is .0115" and has 11 pounds breaking strength. This size bonded thread is commonly used to sew wallet interiors, leather pants and skirts, light upholstery leather and vinyl covers. It is not a heavy duty thread in leather sewing terms. However, it does exceed most garment threads in strength. It requires a #18 needle in most instances.

The Nakajima would probably be more modern than the Singer. It woukld be useful for sewing wallets, phone cases, leather garments, even chaps and dress belts. Yes, #69 is what is usually used on store bought belts. It holds the layers of mush they call leather together. Those machines can't come close to handling the thicker thread used in harness and holster stitchers. Not no way, no how.

The Nakajima has reverse, the Singer does not. They will both sew up to 1/4 inch of soft material or soft leather. You're guaranteed to be able to use #69 thread, but either may or may not handle #92 thread (reqs #19 or #20 needle).

Please tell the members what you want help doing. Also, we call the process coloring using Fiebing's oil and alcohol dye: "dyeing" rather than painting. This is because the dye penetrates the surface permanently. Paint only lies on top of the surface and can wear off.

In all likelihood, the machine in the photo is a very early 29-4, not even a k sub-class. Old machines of this ilk are usually shot by this time, as they are at about a hundred years old. As they wear down the maximum stitch length diminishes from the factory 5/inch to as little as 8/inch, or less. The timing gears get so loose that the timing changes as you sew. When the 29 series was first built there was only linen and cotton thread. The 29s used light shoe thread to sew uppers on shoes and boots. They were known as Cobblers' machines. They are meant for repairs.

I own a Singer 31-15. When I raise the foot, either by the hand lever of knee lever, at a certain point the U-shaped crank gets rotated to push the pin that pushes the tension release to separate the disks. That is how it is meant to work. The gap between the crank and pin can be adjusted to fine tune when and how much the disks separate. The disks should not separate during normal sewing operations. If they are doing that, something is wrong with the positions of the parts that affect this action. Also, don't try to sew more thickness than the machine is designed to handle. My 31-15 is good to a little over 1/4 inch. It can lift higher to clear the material, but not to sew it. This machine uses DBx1/1738/16x257 system needles which are too short for thick sewing operations.

Or convert it to a later model bottom shaft that has a slot and use a newer shuttle driver.

My 1923 Singer 31-15 has the shuttle driver pinned to the shaft. The only way to (slightly) alter the timing is by bending the driver arms in or out.

Try contacting this company. They sell this brand, but different models and have downloadable manuals..

The other point: round/sharp point. Lol Use standard round/sharp point needles when sewing cloth, webbing and synthetics, including vinyl. Although there are several types of leather point needles, with varying faces and angles, they are meant for slicing through leather. Round point needles may be blunt or sharp to the touch, but are always round in geometry. They are designed to separate strands of material, rather than slicing it apart. So, in a nutshell, there are only really two types of needle: round/standard and leather point.

Sorry, I have work to do in my own shop. Maybe somebody else can help you out.

The Singer 31-15 is a tailoring machine. Unless it is a later model, you're pushing the machine's limit to use T90 thread (depends on the shuttle and springs). In any event, I use at least a #19 needle when sewing leather with T90 thread. Always use a leather point needle with leather. Always use a round point/standard needle with cloth, vinyl and webbing. Know that the tension and check springs are weak compared to walking foot machine springs. This means you'll need more top and less bobbin tension to balance the knots. You can play around with the throw and tension of the check spring to get the best achievable results with your machine. A longer throw up and down holds the thread taut longer during the downstroke cycle. This may help to tighten and stabilize the top thread as the needle approaches the bottom of its travel. But, it must have stopped moving down before the needle starts back up or the loop will dissolve before it can be picked off by the hook.

Load image for editing Crop to remove unnecessary details Resize (reduce) dimensions to something suitable for a web page (e.g., 400x600, 600x800) If reducing the size dulls the sharpness, check the box to sharpen (set to 15%) on the adjustments tab page. If you still need more reduction, use the Settings slider on the right side of the Output Format selection on the main page to reduce the quality of the jpg. I find 75% quality is virtually unnoticeable on web page size images.

It would be useful if you list all of the accessories, tools and extras that will come with this machine.

You can crop, reduce the image dimensions and file size, as well as sharpen the reduced image, with the free FastStone Photo Resizer.

Janome has a user manual on the HD3000 page, linked to as: Download HD3000 Manual This is a hobbyist level garment sewing machine. It has an aluminum body to keep it from breaking apart if you sew denim jeans. Do not buy this if you need to sew leather thicker than about 4 or 5 ounces. It should be limited to soft temper garment or light chap leather for a machine like this, which feeds from the bottom only. It will max out at #69 bonded nylon thread, using a #18/110 leather point needle.

This topic actually started out as a discussion about industrial sewing machine manuals. It has since morphed into an anything goes discussion. So, I am unpinning it and making it a standard topic. Regarding manuals, Johanna and I are thinking about starting a new forum where sewing machine and needles manuals can be uploaded and kept in one place. I will let you know if/when this forum goes live.

Mizzy; Can or have you tried uploading the photos from a computer, rather than your phone?

Use an image/photo resizer program to crop and reduce the file size and you should be able to upload pix to the forum.

If you try #207 on top and have trouble getting the knots to pull up, try using a #23 or #24 needle.

Have you thought about contacting Techsew for assistance? They had ad banners on top of every page on our forums. They also have a toll free phone number. It might be quicker to handle it with them than otherwise.

What make and type of motor is on your Toro? If it's a servo, leaving it on shouldn't make any difference as no serious current flows until it is spinning. If it is a clutch motor, it generates heat all the time it is on and could overheat if not properly cooled.

The flywheel usually refers to the huge hand wheel on the right end of the machine. Is this what you are asking about, or is it the speed reducer under the table that has a bad bearing?

I used to buy Barbour's Irish linen thread from Campbell Randall when I had a Union Lockstitch machine. They have a good assortment at all times as they build and sell needle and awl sewing machines.

It is a Juki feed dog for the LU-562 and 563. It is what it is.