Wizcrafts

Sorry, I have work to do in my own shop. Maybe somebody else can help you out.

The Singer 31-15 is a tailoring machine. Unless it is a later model, you're pushing the machine's limit to use T90 thread (depends on the shuttle and springs). In any event, I use at least a #19 needle when sewing leather with T90 thread. Always use a leather point needle with leather. Always use a round point/standard needle with cloth, vinyl and webbing. Know that the tension and check springs are weak compared to walking foot machine springs. This means you'll need more top and less bobbin tension to balance the knots. You can play around with the throw and tension of the check spring to get the best achievable results with your machine. A longer throw up and down holds the thread taut longer during the downstroke cycle. This may help to tighten and stabilize the top thread as the needle approaches the bottom of its travel. But, it must have stopped moving down before the needle starts back up or the loop will dissolve before it can be picked off by the hook.

Load image for editing Crop to remove unnecessary details Resize (reduce) dimensions to something suitable for a web page (e.g., 400x600, 600x800) If reducing the size dulls the sharpness, check the box to sharpen (set to 15%) on the adjustments tab page. If you still need more reduction, use the Settings slider on the right side of the Output Format selection on the main page to reduce the quality of the jpg. I find 75% quality is virtually unnoticeable on web page size images.

It would be useful if you list all of the accessories, tools and extras that will come with this machine.

You can crop, reduce the image dimensions and file size, as well as sharpen the reduced image, with the free FastStone Photo Resizer.

Janome has a user manual on the HD3000 page, linked to as: Download HD3000 Manual This is a hobbyist level garment sewing machine. It has an aluminum body to keep it from breaking apart if you sew denim jeans. Do not buy this if you need to sew leather thicker than about 4 or 5 ounces. It should be limited to soft temper garment or light chap leather for a machine like this, which feeds from the bottom only. It will max out at #69 bonded nylon thread, using a #18/110 leather point needle.

This topic actually started out as a discussion about industrial sewing machine manuals. It has since morphed into an anything goes discussion. So, I am unpinning it and making it a standard topic. Regarding manuals, Johanna and I are thinking about starting a new forum where sewing machine and needles manuals can be uploaded and kept in one place. I will let you know if/when this forum goes live.

Mizzy; Can or have you tried uploading the photos from a computer, rather than your phone?

Use an image/photo resizer program to crop and reduce the file size and you should be able to upload pix to the forum.

If you try #207 on top and have trouble getting the knots to pull up, try using a #23 or #24 needle.

Have you thought about contacting Techsew for assistance? They had ad banners on top of every page on our forums. They also have a toll free phone number. It might be quicker to handle it with them than otherwise.

What make and type of motor is on your Toro? If it's a servo, leaving it on shouldn't make any difference as no serious current flows until it is spinning. If it is a clutch motor, it generates heat all the time it is on and could overheat if not properly cooled.

The flywheel usually refers to the huge hand wheel on the right end of the machine. Is this what you are asking about, or is it the speed reducer under the table that has a bad bearing?

I used to buy Barbour's Irish linen thread from Campbell Randall when I had a Union Lockstitch machine. They have a good assortment at all times as they build and sell needle and awl sewing machines.

It is a Juki feed dog for the LU-562 and 563. It is what it is.

Approximately 3/8 of an inch maximum under the working feet.

Not really. The motor affects punching power and the running speed. An underpowered machine can be custom fitted with a more powerful under the table motor. But it will still have a certain needle, thread and thickness handling maximum that cannot be safely exceeded. The main things that determine the thread handling capacity are the design and clearances of the hook and shuttle and the strength of the take-up and tensioning components. If a certain sewing machine was built to sew light weight cloth, it won't do well with leather, or with thick thread, or large needles. You simply cannot sew with very thick thread on a sewing machine made for cloth and light upholstery. It requires a holster, or harness, or a shoe sole stitcher. BTW: sewing with #346 thread calls for a #26 needle. That is beyond the capacity of walking foot machines, except for the big Juki 441 and its clones and the Adler 205 and its clones. These machines run in the mid $2ks through the high $6ks.

Puritan Industries, a US builder, makes a transverse feed model with a 36" arm, called The Alligator. Like all Puritan machines, it has no bobbin and sews a chainstitch, meaning you'd need to sew across, or glue down the starting and finishing inside chains to lock them in. One advantage of this type of machine is that it easily handles waxed linen thread of just about any size (with the proper needle and awl combo).

If you actually need a transverse feed, order one. CowboySew/Hightex makes a transverse feed machine, as do several other major brands. Here it is in action.

The Sailrite LS1 maxes out with #138 thread and a #23 needle. To use them you'll need to upgrade to the Monster II balance wheel.

This dealer sells the Family Sew FS-550 with a 50mm pulley attached. He also has type 3L v-belts. You are going to need a shorter belt after you replace the clutch motor (with its bigger pulley).

@prbush The shaft on the Family Sew motors is not a standard diameter (as pulley mounting holes go). The 50mm pulley is custom fitted by the dealer. If you buy one from an online seller who is not a specialist in leather sewing machines, it will probably have the 75mm pulley installed (standard for high speed upholstery and garment sewing). This will not be a good size for slow sewing. The machine could start up like a jack rabbit. As for your question about the machine pulley, measure the diameter of the pulley across the top. If it is at least 4 inches, keep it. That way a 2" motor pulley will yield a 2:1 speed reduction/torque multiplication.

I think what's throwing RJ and others off is the fact that you can hand sew with 2 needles to do a running stitch with very heavy thread and have no knots to hide. The stitches are always perfect on both sides in 2 needle hand stitching. Lockstitch sewing machines have an overlap where the top thread grabs up the bottom thread and draws the resulting knot into the material. Lighter threads form tighter knots that are easily buried inside the work. But, thicker thread, especially anything over 1/2 mm, forms a very big overlapping knot that requires a very large needle to poke a hole wide enough to clear at least 3 times the diameter of the largest thread. In the case of .8mm - which equals #554 bonded thread - the thread is not only wide, but not very flexible. It will create a lockstitch knot about 4 times the diameter of the thread. This would require a 3.2mm hole, which is about 1/8 inch diameter! The knot would be so big that it would need to be locked inside 5/16 inch of leather, or more, to totally conceal it. The minimum needle size for sewing with #554 (.8mm) thread is #30. The largest needle that a 441 or 205 type machine uses is a #27. That leaves one having to look into needle and awl harness stitchers, as I previously mentioned. I used to own Union Lockstitch machines that could handle 1/8 inch awls. I called them roofing nails.

I have a trick to pass along to people with loose bobbins on bobbin winder shafts. Feed the thread stub through a hole in the inside of the bobbin, then tuck it through the center post to the front. Find a position where the thread is in direct contact with the shaft, not the split area, and push the bobbin all the way in. This locks the starting thread stub in place and helps keep the bobbin from freewheeling.

If you can't find the lamp clamps for your machine, you can buy a new LED flex light with a magnetic base that holds to the body of the machine. I have several now and like them.