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Everything posted by Wizcrafts
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Junker & Ruh S.D. 28 Sole Stitcher
Wizcrafts replied to Bootknife's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
That is a typical outsole stitcher. Every shoe repair shop has at least one, if not two or three. Most are made by Landis and are model 12 (a - g). They have a curved neele and awl and form a lockstitch using waxed linen thread.. -
I added a motor to one of those cheap leather patchers
Wizcrafts replied to polyfractal's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Shipping: $15.45 Standard Shipping -
Junker & Ruh S.D. 28 Sole Stitcher
Wizcrafts replied to Bootknife's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I think you meant a Cobra Class 4. -
No. It went with the machine when I sold it in 2011. Besides, the online pdf is easier to understand, despite the typos.
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You are confusing a 2 thread bag closer that forms a type 401 chainstitch that uses loopers to interlink two threads on the bottom with a type 301 lockstitch machine that has a bobbin. Chainstitch machines don't have bobbins, just loopers. Most are type 101 single thread type with a looper on the bottom. This stitch is fairly easy to unravel. A type 401 chainstitch is not easy to open. Many people through out the history of sewing machines have tried in vain to create an endless bobbin. The various chainstitch systems were what they settled upon. The endless bobbin system lives in the same place as the Pegasus
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Junker & Ruh S.D. 28 Sole Stitcher
Wizcrafts replied to Bootknife's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
My first thought was that the OP lived in Australia. However, according to his IP address, the poster lives in Jacksonville, Florida. Members are encouraged to add their home base location to their profiles to help narrow down replies to their questions, geographically speaking. Your source for Junker and Ruh needles would be in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, from Henry Veenhoven. I can send you his last known phone number and email address in a private message. He was last seen on this forum 2 years ago. -
The thread capacity problem only exists in the small bobbin patchers, like these Chinese and Vietnamese street vendor patchers. Large bobbin Singer and Adler patchers can sew around several standard length guitar straps or men's belts with #138 thread tightly wound in the bobbin. I did this routinely on an Adler 30-70 until the owner got tired of frequent bobbin changes and stressful edge alignment by hand and eye and bought a Cobra Class 4 with a swingaway edge guide. I simply cannot imagine trying to produce sewn belts on a small bobbin patcher running #138 thread in the bobbin. This is foolishness.
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I personally use #207 bonded nylon to reinforce belt edges that thickness (on a Cowboy CB4500, with well balanced tensions). Or, if the stitching is purely decorative, #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin. But, you will have better results just using #138 top and bottom on any patch machine.
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When I got my first Union Lockstitch machine it didn't have a manual. I had to locate a harness maker that had a ULS and he was kind enough to photocopy his manual for me. I learned to thread and run the machine from that simple yellow manual. The fine tuning came with experience, experimentation and lots of bent needles. There are few devices that can match the awesome clapping and clanging sound of a Union Lockstitch machine sewing at full speed!
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I use left and right toe zipper feet, depending on the nature of the job.
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The 105-64 will be useful to you as long as you are sewing at least 1/8 inch of material with #138 or larger thread, using a #22 or larger needle. Also, your projects will have tooth marks on the bottom. If your jobs meet these minimums, the Adler may be a good investment (as long as it doesn't need expensive replacement parts).
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This machine has been discussed on Leatherworker.net. Use your favorite search engine to search for this term: site: leatherworker.net adler 105-64
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Sometimes you can lookup a Singer serial number and it will tell you the model number and how many were built on a particular date.
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@Damas Welcome to Leatherworker.net and the Leather Sewing Machines forum. I see you are having trouble uploading your photos to your post. There is a rather small file size limit per photo so you may have to reduce the photos considerably to upload them. There are a number of online and offline programs that can reduce both the dimensions and quality to bring down the file size to under our limit. I recommend FastStone Photo Resizer. Sometimes you have to transfer photos from a phone or tablet to a computer to place them on a forum like ours. Try that after reducing their sizes.
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Sailrite Fabricator Sewing Machine.
Wizcrafts replied to ComputerDoctor's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
You may be better off buying a Consew 206RB-5 than a Juki DNU-1541. Some buyers have reported repeated problems with that Juki model (problem 1, problem 2, problem 3). -
Metwar would be a German brand name from yesteryear (Metwar is now Groz Beckert). #200 is the same as a US #25 needle. It is the size needed to sew with #277 bonded thread, or 4 cord linen thread, top and bottom.
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My understanding of Floyd's reply is that while Adler walking foot machines are among the cream of the crop for upholstery use, few if any working upholstery shops can afford them, especially when equipped with the extra electronics panels shown in the OP's photos. NB: In my younger days I learned how to program a Hewlett Packard calculator that used Reverse Polish Notation input. That's how I am able, at the tender age of 70.5, to decipher this type of text. I use the same side of my brain to decipher spam messages containing what's known in the spam-filter trade as "salad words" that are meant to throw off spam filters.
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Pfaff 545 H4 Best Feet for veg tan leather?
Wizcrafts replied to PWDrawhorn's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
See if you can find an authorized Pfaff dealer. They will know what feet and feeders are available for your 545. Gregg at Keystone Sewing knows a lot about most makes and models of industrial sewing machines, as does Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. -
The LU-1508NH is rated to handle #207 thread with up to a #24 needle. Load it with #207 thread, top and bottom, and a #23 leather point needle to start. If it skips stitches on test pieces add more foot pressure. If knots are showing on the bottom add more top thread tension. If it won't sew with that combination, try a #24 leather point needle. If that doesn't work you made a mistake. Try to exchange it for a heavy duty leather sewing machine that can handle at least #277 thread. If they won't take the machine back, sew your holsters with two parallel rows of #138 thread, 1/8 inch apart. Start on the lower outside then work your way around the inside and join the lower outside stitch line, over lapping about 4 or 5 stitches. Try to hit the same holes as you overlap. Alternately, double stitch #138 into the same holes with a #23 needle. Start about 1/2 inch from the bottom, sewing down in reverse, then sew forward to the top, then reverse all the way to the bottom. This should give the strength of #207, or even #277 thread as long as you hit the same holes all the way. You may need more thread pressure as you double stitch. This assumes that the machine has been properly setup to match the stitch length in forward and reverse. FYI: #138 bonded nylon thread is rated at no more than 22 pounds breaking strength (too marginal for serious holsters). #207 increases it to about 32 pounds (marginal). #277, the recommended size for 1/4" to 3/8" pancake holsters, is rated at 44 or 45 pounds test. Once I hit 1/2 inch I use #346 thread (53 pounds test). Note: Sewing with a larger thread on top and a size smaller in the bobbin reduces the breaking strength of the stitches to that of the smaller thread.
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Pfaff 545 H4 Best Feet for veg tan leather?
Wizcrafts replied to PWDrawhorn's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
You will want totally smooth feet for the top and the softest points on the feed dog, or knurled, or smooth, if available (not likely). You only need teeth to move cloth and banners, or slippery materials. Teeth mark leather. You can reduce the marks on the bottom by backing off the foot pressure. -
Yeah, new parts cast in the Orient almost never have the same dimensions as the originals made in precision Singer manufacturing plants.
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This machine is friction driven by a tiny rubber wheel on the spring loaded motor that presses against the flywheel. It slips under the slightest resistance at the needle. This is the antithesis of a leather sewing machine. Strictly for soft cloth items.
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There should be a hand lift lever on the back, plus a chain foot lifter on the steel floor bar, next to the GO pedal. The mechanism is based on the Singer 111w153 and uses the same parts inn the head.. Maybe the attached PDF will help you out. It's all I've got for this machine. 168w101.pdf
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I have a Singer 168w101 and use it a lot. I just finished sewing a motorcycle seat with it. I started with #207 thread on the thickest seams, then moved down to #138 on thinner seams and the padded diamond patterns. These machines can sew up to 3.5 stitches per inch. If you don't want it send it to me!
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Needle Question for my Consew machine
Wizcrafts replied to lb61906's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
DPx17 = 135x17 = SY3355, which is a standard geometry walking foot machine round point needle. This system is used to sew cloth and vinyl, but not leather. The leather points are System 135x16 and are made in several different styles, including LL, LR, Di and S point. Each produces its own stitch line and appearance. Most sewing machines purchased off eBay, or from upholstery shops, or Craigslist sellers come with round point needles, for cloth.
