Wizcrafts

I think the previous responders were thinking that the loops were on the top side. The OP stated that the loops are the bobbin side, not the top. Let's assume this is a fact. If the bobbin thread forms a loop under the material, the bobbin might be inserted so that it's feeding the wrong way, or the anti-backlash spring is missing, or the bobbin tension spring may be too loose. All of these, but especially a missing anti-backlash spring can allow the bobbin thread to continue feeding when you stop suddenly.

I made the mistake of buying an off brand portable walking foot machine couple years ago from an eBay seller. The box was dropped on the handwheel end during shipping. When I unpacked it, the machine was seized. I tried to free it up for one day, then mailed it back and got a refund. The crank shafts were made of soft metal that had bent from the rear impact. The casing was crude and had jagged edges when I opened the top cover to check the damage.

It is my understanding that only the Sailrite brand machines have been regularly upgraded as flaws or weaknesses are discovered. They say as much on their website and in videos they produce. This is important if one intends to continue using the machine for an extended period of time. They have beefed up cranks and bearings. While not on par with a full blown industrial dual feeder, they are more than a step above the majority of Chinese clones.

Double needle machines are used in upholstery for topstitching across previously sewn seams (that were sewn together inside out). They are also used in the construction of jeans and work clothing to secure and reinforce folded down seams. These are normally flatbed machines with large bobbins with fast clutch motors (time is money in upholstery) driving them at 2000 rpm and above. Turning sharp corners is tricky with twin needles. You won't usually find these machines in hobbyists' leather shops. They are factory machines used by auto seat cover makers and professional upholsterers. Any flatbed machine gives better support to flat work than a cylinder arm machine. Sitting down at a full size table is much better than trying to fit flat work onto an add-on table attachment on a stand up cylinder arm. Cylinder arm machines are a must have if you sew things that cannot be held flat on the bottom. This includes shaped holsters, pouches and cases with belt loops and clips sewn or riveted on the back, hats, cue stick bags and round objects and preformed curved straps. Cylinder arm machines are usually built to sew at the very left edge of the arm, allowing shaped work to move below the throat plate level. You cannot do this on a flatbed machine. Clothing often takes multiple types of sewing machines to assemble. Some jeans require at least 5 different sewing machines. Backpacks and some bags can take two or three machines (flatbed, post bed and cylinder arm). You will no doubt find that you need more than one machine to do professional work. Some will be light duty and some may be heavy duty. Different builds of machines accept different ranges of thread. You have much to learn and a lot of money to set aside to experiment with. The simplest way to begin is with a common flatbed walking foot machine and build your inventory as the need reveals itself. Some members here start with a cylinder arm machine and construct or buy a slide or bolt on table attachment. But, if you really need a cylinder arm to sew a part, nothing else will do the same job.

The welt size on the foot equals the diameter of the covered cord. If your cord is 3/16" and the covering material is 1/16", the combined diameter is 1/4". That's the size of welt foot you need for that combo. Most double welt feet are 1/4", but others are available. Singer 111 feet refers to a style compatible with a Singer 111w155. Since Singer has been out of the industrial sewing machine business for a long long time, the only actual Singer feet for sale will be used, or new old stock. Good luck finding authentic Singer feet. If you hunt long enough, some will show up. otherwise, buy what's available in the market. Ask local upholstery shops if they have an extra set of "Singer" double welt feet. I scored mine with a machine I bought from an upholstery shop. It was in the drawer.

Anybody who may be interested in these machines should know that they are located in the Asian country Sri Lanka (an island nation south of India in the Indian Ocean) and the seller does not know if he is willing or able to ship them. If you live in, or near Sri Lanka, these machines could be a good deal. He has not stated what voltage and phase the motors are either.

I bought some brown and black calfskin that I use for wallets. It is about 2 ounces thick. I also have some dark brown and black haircell pigskin that is about 1 ounce thick, which I sometimes use for interiors. PM me if you want to discuss your wallet project with me.

It might be best to find an industrial sewing machine mechanic or dealer who has done this before. Otherwise, you are on your own.

It sure looks like the post screws need to be loosened, then unclamp something underneath holding the gears in place, then move the entire post to the right until the hook clears the needle. This movement might change the hook to needle timing slightly, maybe for the better.

What type of feet came with your Cobra 26? Post a picture of them. If your machine uses standard Singer 111 style feet, buy a wide outside foot, or a complete extra wide inside and outside set. The wider the footprint, the less it digs into the leather. There are dozens of different presser feet for standard walking foot machines based upon the Singer 111w155. Second, try backing off the top pressure screw. It only needs enough spring pressure to hold down the leather until the needle has cleared it on the way up. Less foot pressure results in less marking. If none of the above work, try taping a thin piece of hard leather next to the left side of the stitch line. This will act as a buffer between the outer foot and top grain and won't interfere with your edge guide on the right. If you are using a right toe foot, tape the buffer piece on the right side of the stitch line. Leave enough clearance for the inside foot to make full contact with the top grain.

There was a discussion about this model during 2016, in this topic. Maybe it will answer your questions about this long obsolete machine with many parts made of unobtainium.

Call your technician and tell him that he sold you the wrong part. It should be on the installer to install a correct part.

It looks like nobody has yet told you that Ferdco is long out of business. There is a sewing machine dealer in Chicago that bought some of their remaining stock. But, you probably won't find any authentic, official support for these machines. They modified the mechanisms on various Bull models and some parts were custom made by Ferdco.

You can buy a brand new Consew P-1206rb for under a thousand dollars. It is similar to the 206 mechanism, but is self oiling and lacks the safety clutch button. If you remember to hold back the starting threads and maintain proper threading and top tension you won't need a safety clutch.

I use FastStone.org Photo Resizer

This machine is a clone of the ancient Singer 16-188. It is a dual (top/bottom) feed walking foot machine with a Class 15 bobbin and tensioning system. Excellent type of machine for sewing denim, marine vinyl and outdoor fabrics. Fine for chrome tanned leather up to about 5/16 inch. Not for use on veg-tan unless you plan to rub out or stamp over the tooth marks.

I would add that if one of the sellers is willing to give you some instructions for operating the machine and the other isn't, buy the machine that has personal instructions. Non-sewers can make serious, costly mistakes on industrial sewing machines. Some mistakes can land you in the ER. Others can require professional servicing.

KGG already mentioned a few things to check for excessive wear. The things that really affect performance are an overly loose needle bar, feed dog, stitch regulator, reverse hold down spring (on the 226) and the crank shafts inside the head (incl take-up lever). Other areas of concern are the shuttle and shuttle driver and belt from top to bottom. If the belt is too far worn the timing can be erratic.

135x17 are round points meant to penetrate cloth. They tend to heat up and stick inside veg-tan leather and squeak until that happens.

Try them both out. If one feels easier to use, or sounds tighter, go with it. Both designs are valid. But, if they both have a lot of slack and are noisy, you may want to avoid inheriting somebody else's troubles.

Try to buy a pack each of diamond and triangle points. They make a different type of hole than the slanted wedge points.

This is the servo motor I use. I order them from this seller refitted with a smaller than standard 2" pulley. They also sell speed reducers that slow the machines down another 2:1 or 3:1. If you install a 3:1 reducer you won't be able to speed up much on straightaways.

Assuming the machine is really threaded correctly, the needle may be a size too small for this particular leather. Get yourself some #23/160 needles and the holes should be large enough to get pulled into the leather. Note that some thread is stiffer than usual making it harder to pull the knots up. Veg-tan leather takes a lot more tension to pull the knots up if the hole clearance is marginal. Some leather points work better than others in dense leather. Try some DI or TRI points.

You have stated that it is your hope to be hired to move here and work as a leather crafter for a US or Canadian company. Most leather work here is done by self employed individuals who sell their work in craft stores, flea markets, antiques shops, or online (e.g., Etsy). You are unlikely to be hired in advance to work in North America and paid to move here from Vietnam. The paperwork involved is enormous, costly and time consuming, with no guarantee you would be allowed to emigrate here, or even be granted a work visa. You need to consult with the US Consulate, or an immigration lawyer in Vietnam before attempting to come here to pursue a career that is usually a solo job. In the meantime, there is nothing to lose by looking into setting up an Etsy store and a PayPal account, if they even allow payments to residents of Vietnam.