Wizcrafts

I have to wonder if a clever person couldn't grind down the top of the presser feet, where the needle bar is hitting them when the feet are raised? Perhaps a little reshaping of the bottom of the needle bar would help it clear the (ground down) feet for more usable height. Thread guide might be in the way though. Relocate it if possible.

Is the thread black bonded nylon? If so, this color tends to be springier than any other color. Some batches are double-dyed and act link coil springs as they unwind. Buy a spool of thread elsewhere and see if that cures the problem.

Yes, my Family Sew motor has an external switch box, with an illuminated rocker switch (when ON). I wouldn't have it any other way.

I have another suggestion, which I myself have followed. Your needles are bending and breaking due to deflection from multiple layers, which causes the needle to miss the hole and hit the solid steel plate. Changing the original throat plate and feed dog to a heavy duty set may cure the problem! These are usually sold as a two piece matched set of an oversize feed dog and matching throat plate. The important thing you'll be interested in is that the needle hole is larger in this heavy set than in the standard or medium duty sets. You can use a #22 needle with the heavy set, which means more wiggle room for your #20 before the deflected needle hits the throat plate. As suggested by the previous poster, check the lateral clearance betwixt your needle and the hook.

Yes it does lose torque at slower speeds, but not too badly on a typical straight stitch or walking foot machine. The heavier the load on the machine, the more pronounced the effect. If you only sew into medium temper leather, lower torque won't be a problem. You would notice it if you have a #24 needle and are sewing with #207 bonded thread, into 3/8 inch of water hardened veg-tan. This type of application is where a smaller motor pulley (or speed reducer) comes in handy. It multiplies the available punching power, at the expense of top end speed. Replacing a 3" pulley with a 2" pulley increases the slow speed punching power by 1/3rd. You probably wouldn't even notice the 33% loss of available top speed (~ 2200 rather than 3450). I don't see most leather crafters sewing at 36+ stitches per second. Now, upholsters are a whole nuther story!

A 70mm motor pulley is about 3 inches in diameter. This will drive the machine at a very high rate of speed. You will probably end up setting the rotary switch to the lowest setting, just to maintain control. I have 50mm (~ 2") pulleys on all of my servo motors.

I owned one of the 123 models for about 5 years. I mounted it onto a 12" x 12" board, attached a domestic motor and belt, put the speed control pedal on the floor and took it on the road with me. The machine uses #69 bonded nylon thread and can sew about 1/4 inch, or slightly higher of medium density leather. I used it to sew belts and vests, plus a couple of ambitious holster projects. It only sews forward, so I learned to just lift the foot, pull the work forward and sew through the same holes to lock the stitches. There is pretty much no turning the work around with the tiny 4" work space. When I bought the machine I asked the dealer what it was designed to do. He told me it was an early type of bag closer machine.

I guess I'm lucky that I have to original versions of the SewPro 500 GR. Still, turning down the speed limiter pot does reduce torque. The Family Sew motors don't seem to have that problem. I operate a long body Singer walking foot machine with a Family Sew 3/4 hp servo, with the knob set to either the lowest, or second to lowest speed. It doesn't bog down, but I'm not using it with very thick or dense material.

Yep, Bob sells a Family Sew servo motor that is perfect for walking foot machines. He also stocks the Sew Slow 500GR, of which I have two. 866-362-7397

Take up some of the slack, but leave just enough for the top thread to go all the way around the shuttle, without getting squeezed at the back by the driver. You need some slack, but not so much as to allow the shuttle to back up significantly as it picks up the thread loop. That fall back retards the timing. Don't lock the jaws of the vise grip onto the ends, Clamp in the middle, where the top thread is less likely to be present. While you have clear access to the driver, use Emory cloth to smooth and polish the tapered/radiused end where the top thread exits.

I had to fix the same problem on my machine. After advancing the hook and positioning it properly over the eye, I noticed that there was a lot of slack between the shuttle driver and shuttle. This slack allowed the shuttle to back up as the hook grabbed the loop. I had created that extra space to get my replacement shuttle to fit without jamming and overdid it. If your shuttle has too much forward-backward slack, the shuttle will pull back like mine did. The only way I found to correct this was to use a vise-grip and carefully bent the shuttle driver outwards. Only a slight movement is necessary to take up this slack. If your driver is removable, you might try replacing it instead of bending it. Hopefully, your shuttle driver is not steel-pinned on like mine is. Note: moving the driver in or out changes its lateral relationship to the needle. The driver has a slightly tapered area that helps to push the loop up and to the right, as the needle ascends. Moving the driver outward may cause it to hit the needle and push it to the left. Moving it inward may leave more space than is ideal. So, if you have to bend the driver to reduce slack in the shuttle, you may also have to reposition the driver sideways. These are really old design machines.

Check the lateral clearance between the right side of the needle and the point of the hook. They should be close, but not touch.

On my 31-15 there is a solid steel pin securing the shuttle driver to the shaft. I had to adjust the hook timing on the right side where the shaft from the top is joined to the shuttle driver shaft, which are visible in your photo. After advancing the hook, check the position of the point in relation to the ascending needle's eye. The needle must move enough to form a decent loop on the right of the eye. The hook must pass above the eye, somewhere within the cutout scarf area, then grab the loop. Watch this happen with the throat plate off. It may give a clue as to what is or is not happening. The clearance between the shuttle driver and shuttle makes a difference. Too much slack allows the shuttle and bobbin to self-retard under load. Too little and the top thread gets pinched as it goes around the assembly.

I had a similar problem with my 1920 Singer 31-15. The top thread would occasionally get picked up too late in the oscillation cycle, preventing it from going around the bobbin. My solution was to advance the timing of the hook, which was done at the far right side of the machine, with the head tilted back on the table. There is an eccentric screw and finger driving the shuttle driver shaft. You have to loosen the nut, adjust the hook forward a bit, lock it down and test for results. These adjustments may also require the needle bar to be repositioned to get the hook above the eye at the right moment and position.

I operated one in 1989 - 1990 that used #69 bonded nylon. That's what we stocked, and I suspect, that's the probable limit.

That machine is known as a bartacker. It does just one thing: it sews a tight zig zag, approximately 5/8 inches long. The resulting stitch resembles a bar, thus the name. These machines are used to sew (tack) Velcro or webbing onto other things. It is not a shoe machine, per say. You cannot modify the stitch it sews. It is a one use machine.

Sometimes you get a spool of black thread that has been double-dipped and it is almost like a coil spring. This thread tends to twist a lot on its way off the spool and on down the line. I have even watched springy black thread lift right out of the upper tension disks! Thread like this needs to be stabilized, even if that means feeding it through an inverted funnel sitting on top of the spool. Then, go through a hole in the top post (if exists) and around the post, then through a second hole, if one exists. Do whatever it takes to keep your thread from coiling on the way to the needle. When knots move around a lot, up and down, something intermittent is changing the tension. Knots on top are caused by either too much top tension, too little bobbin tension, too large of a needle, or too large thread for the thickness being sewn. Knots on the bottom are caused by too little top tension, too much bobbin tension, or too small of a needle. Try to balance your top tension for a smooth pull with the foot lifted and top disks partially separated. Take the thread out of the eye of the needle. Pull out a few feet and if you feel the tension changing, look to see where it is happening. Maybe the thread is dropping under the spool or spool support. Maybe it is looping around the top guide in the thread stand? Springy thread can even twist inline and form a knot! Next, pull out a few feet of bobbin thread and test for a consistent, even pull. If you feel a hesitation once per revolution of the bobbin, pull it out and clip the little starting thread stub off at the hole in the bobbin. A starting thread stub on the inside will tend to get caught in the anti-backlash/bobbin ejector beehive shaped spring inside the bobbin case of 441 type machines. This increases the bobbin tension at that point in rotation and lowers the knot a bit. An out-of-round bobbin can cause the same problem. Improperly wound bobbins, with loose windings, can cause the thread to unwind against the inside of the bobbin case and even pop out of the tension spring on the case. Poof, no bobbin tension! As for needle sizes, you say you are using #277 in the bobbin, with #4 braided thread on top. I am not familiar with that thread at all. If it has the same diameter as #277, a #25 (200 metric) needle should suffice. If it has the diameter of #346 bonded nylon thread, a #26 needle should be big enough. If your needle is much larger than the diameter of the knots being formed by the top and bottom thread, vertical placement will be hard to control. It would require unchanging top and bottom tensions. If the work is thinner than 8 ounces, move down to #207 thread, with a #24 needle. The knots will be easier to control. One more thought: I sew a lot of different projects, some of which have areas that don't make full contact with each other all the way through, or on the bottom. The knots tend to move when one encounters these open areas. Sometimes they form under the work, other times, nearer the top. More pressure on the foot may help to compress the layers and force the bottom all the way down.

That means it is a "domestic" sewing machine, meant for making shirts, aprons, pants, doilies and household cloth items. It probably has a little black, 1 pound, .4 or .5 amp motor bolted onto its back side, that draws about 40 to 50 watts of power and produces about 0.05 (1/20th) horsepower. Most industrial walking foot machines are powered by a 400 to 500 watt 1/2 horsepower motor that weights anywhere from 15 to 40 pounds and is bolted under the table. Domestic sewing machines do not have walking foot drive. They are all feed dog driven machines (drop feed), with a flat presser foot. Some zig and zag, others just sew straight. Some have push buttons or computers to change the stitches. None of those machines are leather sewing machines. You need to consult an industrial sewing machine dealer who specializes in leather sewing equipment, to buy a real leather sewing machine. My first industrial sewing machine was an old Singer 96-40 straight stitch machine. The dealer lied through his teeth when he told me it was what I needed to sew a leather vest. It was NOT. I needed a compound feed walking foot machine, which I bought elsewhere.

You need to choose which needle system you will be using in your machine, then adjust the height of the needle bar to meet the hook at the correct amount of lift past BDC.

None of them are really any good for anything other than thin, soft leather. If you only need to sew a vest together, or a pair of leather gloves, an old straight stitch machine should handle it. Most of them are limited to sewing no more than 1/4 inch compressed thickness. But, if you intend to sew belts, bags, holsters or large upholstery panels, an industrial sewing machine, with a very powerful motor, is a must. The old cast iron Singer sewing machines, mounted onto treadle bases, or equipped with tiny motors on the back, were made to sew fabrics. Industrial machines use 1/2 H.P., or larger clutch or servo motors. Leather goods are normally sewn on triple feed walking foot machines. These machines are mounted on 20" x 48" tables, or, in the case of cylinder arm machines, on adjustable height pedestal bases. They typically sew 3/8 inch of leather or cloth. Home machines may be able to handle up to #69 bonded nylon thread. Industrial walking foot machines easily handle #138 and sometimes, #207 on top/138 in the bobbin. Most upholstery grade machines also have almost double capacity bobbins. Home machines have small, standard bobbins. Real leather stitchers are very large and can sew over 3/4 inches, with #346 thread, or larger. They have 3/4 H.P. servo motors and speed reducers.

You can take or send your machine to an industrial sewing machine dealer and have them properly install a drop down edge guide. Most of the Chinese attachment builders have no idea what a Singer 111 looks like on the back of the head. They deal in current brands and models.

BDC is the position that is bottom-most on the travel of the needle bar. Watch the needle bar as you rotate it towards you. When it reaches its lowest point, just before it begins to raise, that is BDC.

I buy small spools of nylon thread from Wawak.com. They are available in 375 yard spools of #69 and come in a wide variety of colors.

Never eat anything bigger than your head!