Wizcrafts

The hook, shuttle, take-up system and tensioners are not built to properly tension #277 thread. It will get dragged down into the hook and jam the machine. That's the official stance. Now, you might try running a soft #277 on top, but no more than a soft 207 in the bobbin, using a #25 diamond point needle. You'll have to crank down the presser foot spring a lot to keep the leather from lifting as the needle ascends. Set the stitch length to about 6 to the inch. Increase the top tension and reduce the bobbin tension.Sew into 1/4 inch of leather that has been oiled to soften it and see if you can balance the top and bottom threads. Hold back the starting threads, hand crank the machine and see what happens! Let us know.

That is a very cryptic post! I'm trying to decipher the questions. The first question appears to be how can I convert my Juki LU-1508 top loader into a side loader like the Juki DNU-1541? (I filled in the missing prefixes) No, you can't do that. If you want a side loading machine, trade in your 1508 top loader for a 1541 side loader. It could be that there is an anti-backlash spring in the bobbin case, under the bobbin, that is pushing up too much, jamming the bobbin and adding way more tension than you actually set it to. If that isn't it, something else may interfering with the path the bobbin thread takes and is squeezing the thread. Or, the top thread may be getting jammed as it goes through the feed dog, gets picked off by the hook and wraps around the shuttle and bobbin. Remove the cover plate over the bobbin and watch the top thread as you slowly rotate the hand wheel with a piece of tough material, or leather under the feet. See if the top thread is loose, or tight as it goes around. If it snaps going around the bobbin case, the timing could be retarded. Advance the timing a bit and try again.

Kristina; As a guest you can only interact publicly with interested parties. You don''t have access to our private message or email system. On the other hand, if you were to become a member, you can use these systems to carry on business discussions privately.

Thread getting jammed in the hook is user error cured by holding back the starting thread. I would suggest holding back the starting threads for at least three stitches before letting go. Make sure that the top thread feeds through the hole or split in the inside foot and is pulled to the rear. . If the machine sewed perfectly at the previous location, everything that has gone wrong is simply new user - rookie mistakes we all made along the way. Place a drop of oil on inside the race where the shuttle revolves. In fact, put a few drops of sewing machine oil in every oil hole and on each moving part. Keep a cloth handy to wipe the drippings.

To reduce the walking height you have to move the lever coming out of the back so it is farther away from the shaft that moves the feet. I can't resolve the details in your photo, but that adjustment should be obvious. As you rotate the wheel, the arm will push and pull out the back and the shaft will oscillate to move the foot up and down. Loosen the screw, or nur, or wingnut and move the shaft away from the center line. You may be able to reduce the lift to 1/16 inch. But, there will still be some lift. A walking foot doesn't operate like a flat foot. What you described would be like a needle feed machine with a fixed presser foot and a needle that moves with the feed dog. It wouldn't have an inside foot like a walking foot machine has.

No, that's not what I meant. It looked to me like the front edge of the pedal is hard in contact with the floor. It needs to miss the floor in the off/idle position. Forget I ever mentioned it. It's an optical illusion. Set the angle where your ankle is comfortable. Just make sure it is adjusted so it lets the motor be completely off when the front is all the way down. If the leading edge actually hits the floor, the motor will be partially engaged when you want it off. That's what I was talking about. It should have the back end up so you don't stress your ankle.

The best needle and thread combination chart is on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website.

Make sure that the floor pedal isn't bottoming out hard against the floor in the idle position. The two rods with the coupler are used to adjust the idle position. Set it so there is a little gap above the floor in the off position. I have the same motor on my Singer 211G156 walking foot machine, and on my Techsew 2700. I like the rotary switch to set the top speed.

I don't recommend using #207 on this type of machine. It will probably cause the Ranko Valve to defribulate and implode into a gazillion pieces. At the very least, it will jam the hook.

Post a photo showing the motor and floor pedal. Every motor I've seen on an industrial sewing table has a bolt adjustment for raising or lowering the motor in its mount. There are usually locking nuts over and under the bracket the bolt feeds through. Set the motor so there is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection of the v-belt when the machine is upright in its operating position. Do try turning the hand wheel before tightening the belt. If it's hard to turn without the belt, something has gotten jammed up inside the machine. It could simply be a thread birds nest from not pulling the top thread out of the needle and the needle went down from the machine being moved around. If this happened, you'll have to pull all the thread out of the shuttle around the bobbin case before you try powering on the machine again. This birds nesting is caused by not holding onto the starting threads, especially the top needle thread. Industrial machines are fairly easy to jam up if the top thread gets pulled down and into the shuttle in the wrong manner. When moving or even tilting the head, pull the top thread out of the needle so it can't get jammed into the shuttle and bobbin case.

What a great reveal! Thanks for exploring and exposing this hidden issue. We have a member troubleshooting this very same problem in another thread. The diameters may be different on different motor makes and models and different pulleys from different suppliers. I guess it would be smart to have a package of thin shim material on hand when swapping out pulleys.

You haven't given us much to work with. For instance, what needle system is installed in the machine? Is the rib side facing due left and the scarf due right? Unless you are sewing very thick stuff, you can back off on the slack adjuster by raising the pointer higher up in its frame, reducing the slack. Yours is set to add a lot of extra thread when sewing through about 5/16 inch of leather. Next, the correct needle system for this machine is 332LLG, for round point, and 332LLLG for leather point. Mine measure about 2 1/8 inches, from stem to stern. As for changing the timing, first confirm if yours is set close to nominal timing. With the shuttle hook unit in place, remove the thread from the needle, open the needle plate sideways, then rotate the rear mounted hand wheel counterclockwise (towards you from the top) until the needle reaches bottom dead center. Slowly continue rotating the wheel until the needle rises and halts its motion. At this time, the tip of the hook should be close to and behind the needle, above the eye. As you rotate a little more, the hook should intersect the needle above the eye, then the needle should start back down as the hook continues to turn counterclockwise. It is a down-up-down jog during pickoff time. If the timing of the hook is too far advanced or retarded, the hook needs to be re-timed. Instructions will follow later. adler_30_-10-50-70.pdf Adler_30_Instruction_Manual.pdf

I use Leather Refinish, in 4 ounce jars, I get from OTB and made by Wood-N-Stuff. If I need a color OTB doesn't stock, I buy direct from Wood. The first step is to apply the preparer all over the area to be dyed/painted. let it dry, then spread the paint evenly and let it dry. Apply a second coat. Apply an acrylic top finish if desired. You should be good to go. I mainly use this refinish on leather jackets and vests. I've used it since roughly 2008.

This person is posting from Navi Mumbai (Sector 11), Maharashtra, India. How long do we need to put up with his/her bs?

I watched and listened to the video that confused our O.P. It was being narrated by a text to speech converter bot and a poor one at that. The specs are all wrong. I hope nobody else finds it, so I am NOT linking to it here. The entire video was produced as clickbait.

@Spicytacoman Can you send me a link to that video, in a private message? I want to hear for myself how it was worded that caused you to misunderstand that the stitch length is fixed, rather than adjustable. I promise you that the Cowboy machines all have adjustable stitch lengths, from very short, to whatever long. To be 100% accurate, there are some specialized sewing machines that have a fixed stitch length, but none of them are machines we typically use in general leather work, or discuss here.

My Cowboy CB4500 does go up to 2 stitches per inch when the lever is all the way up or down. I used that spacing once to pre-punch holes for edge riveting a custom belt. I used a #27 needle which is the largest I could find at the time in system 7x3.

I just found a good definition of the common US and Canadian commercial thread numbering system for bonded threads. Commercial sizes are set sizes of 33, 46, 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415 and 554. They are the thread’s denier divided by 10. den (denier): Grams per 9,000 metres of yarn. Den is a direct measure of linear density. The denier is based on a natural reference: a single strand of silk is approximately one denier; a 9000-metre strand of silk weighs about one gram.

When we mention a threads "size," we are referring to its diameter, not its breaking strength. There are different standards of measurement that equate a diameter to a numeric size and they don't always line up perfectly. For instance, the prefix #, b, or v indicates a bonded multistrand, or unbonded monofilament thread. The prefix T indicates the TEX * system of measurement. The abbreviation TKT ** is a totally different system called TICKET. The following numbers all mean the same size thread: #138 v138 b138 T135 Tkt 20 What they all have in common is their basic diameter of .0163 inches, or .414 mm. The governing bodies that set standards allow for some variation due to the manufacturing processes and effects of dyeing and the bonding agent used. That's why some brands claiming to be size 138 will have a slightly different diameter. But, the difference should be a small percentage of the stated number. If it reaches 50%, that thread is probably an inbetween size that was given the nearest label to make it easier to sell. I have some thread that is size 105. It is larger than my b92, but thinner than any b138. This particular thread was honestly labeled as 105. I chose to buy it for those projects that called for something a little beefier than #92, but easier to hide the knots than #138 You can see the conversions between thread sizes 33 through 554 on the Needle and Thread Chart on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website. It includes addition measurements for Government sizes and weight per pound and breaking strength. * Tex.- Tex can be defined as the weight present in 1000 meter of yarn in grams where length of yarn is fixed. It means that, for example, if there is a 1000 meter of yarn and have a weight of 20gm then the yarn count will be 20tex. Because tex refers the weight in gram of unit length. ** Tkt - A ticket number in one type of thread will not be the same as in another. For example, Ticket 20 Cotton is not the same as Ticket 20 Corespun, or bonded nylon, or bonded polyester. Ticket numbers resemble the fixed weight system. The higher the ticket number, finer the thread and the lower the ticket number, the thicker the thread.

Just ask the seller if they can show you that it sews These are solid machines. It would be wonderful if he could give you some pointers to get you going. Ask if he has some thread and needles for it and some extra bobbins and some oil. This is the machine you were after! If you turn the hand wheel, always turn it towards you from the top, in a counterclockwise direction. Doing so while holding onto the top and bottom thread should result in the top thread picking up the bobbin thread and overlapping it. If there is material under the feet, a stitch should be formed. If it can be plugged in, ask to see it in action. If it has a servo motor you won't have as long of a learning curve to control the speed. A complete machine and table will have an unwarped table mounted on a steel K-Legs frame. There will be a motor hanging down and a rod connecting the control arm to a foot pedal. There will be another smaller pedal that lifts the feet, which releases the top thread tension. There should be a drawer with accessories. On top there should be a bobbin winder, unless there is one built into the machine head. Also, there should be a thread stand with platforms for 2 or 4 spools of thread and some kind of flexible work light. There should be a switch box under the right front end of the table to turn the motor on and off. It'll probably have pushbuttons, or a rocker switch. Make sure the power and motor all work. Good luck in advance!

I think the P-1206RB will work for you. I have a room full of sewing machines, but only 2 have safety clutches. I do get thread jams from time to time and stop as soon as I sense that something sounds or feels wrong. I cut the threads from the project, then fish the top thread out of the shuttle. Then I resume and am more careful about holding the top thread AND bottom thread back. BUT, sometimes that's not possible. If I can't hold back the bottom thread, I at least push it back so it is out of the way of the needle on the first few stitches. Holding back the starting threads AND not crossing over a loose bottom thread goes a long way to avoiding a thread jam. If you can't afford a new walking foot machine, look for a good used machine in local ads. If there is an upholstery shop nearby, ask them if they have a used walking foot machine for sale. I did that during the Covid shutdown, when my machines were locked up in a building that hosted our shop. But, I had customers wanting things sewn despite the stay home order. Rather than try to get together with the owner's husband multiple times, I asked a boat upholstery shop about used machines and he just happened to have a used, but not abused Singer 211G156, which has reverse. I took it home to sew at home for customers who still needed work done. It later ended up in the shop and routinely sews thick leather jackets and chaps that need zippers, or things needing hemming, where reverse is handy to lock in the stitches without spinning the work around 180 degrees ("Poor Man's Reverse"). I paid $800 cash for it, with its clutch motor. Later, I upgraded to a servo motor and am perfectly happy with it. I use #69, 92 or 138 thread, top and bottom, according the the thickness and forces trying to pull the layers apart. That $800 used machine was probably worth $2000 or more when new.

12 years ago, I was using black, #138, bonded nylon thread from Weaver Leather that came off the spool like a coil spring. It was so coily that it got wrapped around itself on the guide posts and even the eye of the needle! However, years before that, I had a similar problem with CanSew black bonded thread and that prompted me to ask the sales agent why this was happening on only their black thread. She told me it was because the black thread was double-dyed with a dark blue dip followed by a black dip. When we asked the guru at Weaver he told us that their black thread was double-dyed. This is why black bonded thread is firmer and springier than most other colors. This is for both nylon and polyester. Black polyester would be a little softer than black nylon, but stiffer than any lighter colors.

I just did a price check on the Consew 206RB-5, complete, with a motor and table, delivered to a residential address with a lift gate. They all revolved around the $2000 to $2400 range. The prices under $2000 were either for the head only, or for delivery to a commercial address with a loading dock. The prices for the head only ranged from $1499, plus tax, to $1999, plus tax. Some of the sellers are unlikely to offer any after the sale support. Personally, when I bought my first couple of sewing machines, I called the dealers multiple times with questions. One dealer who sold me a well used head only, refused to give free support and that was back in the mid to late 1980s. OTOH, when I bought a new machine, my calls were welcomed and gladly answered with all the answers to get me going again. This is something to bear in mind if one is buying their first industrial sewing machine and trying to shave dollars off the total price. You can shave yourself into the jackpot if you buy too cheaply. Or, you'll be begging for help from unpaid volunteers on here, or other forums, or groups. Another thing to consider is that customers in Canada have a different trade agreement with Chinese made goods than we do in the USA. All Chinese imports are automatically hit with at least a 25% import tariff, in addition to any other duty , shipping, delivery, and State sales tax. Ebay and Amazon automatically add State sales tax to all purchases shipped to US addresses. I can't speak to the difference in purchasing power of a Canadian Dollar vs a US dollar. But, again, Canadian money paying for Chinese goods that aren't hit with the 25% import penalty are probably paying a better, or similar price, especially if the machine was already in stock and bought before any recent price increases, dollar declines, or duties.

If you already timed the hook and needle as good as possible, experiment with changes to the check spring. There are usually three adjustments: You can change the distance the spring travels down to its resting position. The longer the throw, the longer the thread stays taut. Normally, the bottom stop is set to bottom out just after the needle enters the material. Its purpose is to prevent loose thread from getting split by the tip of the needle. Try more or less throw. The spring itself is attached to a split shaft that can be rotated for more or less spring tension. There's a set screw that holds the shaft in the preset position. Loosen the screw a little and try more or less spring tension. There is a screw inside a curved slot that lest you move the entire assembly to left or right. Typically, turning it all the way counterclockwise tightens the lay of the stitches. Turning it full clockwise loosens the lay of the thread. Normal is centered in the slot. Experiment!

First of all, thank you for you service in the Fire Department. Second: Once you get the machines working smoothly and reliably, we can talk about thread and needles you'll need to repair turnout gear. I've already done a couple and learned the requirements. It will not be the type of thread that shipped with the machine. This is a whole 'nuther topic.