Wizcrafts

My Cowboy CB4500 does go up to 2 stitches per inch when the lever is all the way up or down. I used that spacing once to pre-punch holes for edge riveting a custom belt. I used a #27 needle which is the largest I could find at the time in system 7x3.

I just found a good definition of the common US and Canadian commercial thread numbering system for bonded threads. Commercial sizes are set sizes of 33, 46, 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415 and 554. They are the thread’s denier divided by 10. den (denier): Grams per 9,000 metres of yarn. Den is a direct measure of linear density. The denier is based on a natural reference: a single strand of silk is approximately one denier; a 9000-metre strand of silk weighs about one gram.

When we mention a threads "size," we are referring to its diameter, not its breaking strength. There are different standards of measurement that equate a diameter to a numeric size and they don't always line up perfectly. For instance, the prefix #, b, or v indicates a bonded multistrand, or unbonded monofilament thread. The prefix T indicates the TEX * system of measurement. The abbreviation TKT ** is a totally different system called TICKET. The following numbers all mean the same size thread: #138 v138 b138 T135 Tkt 20 What they all have in common is their basic diameter of .0163 inches, or .414 mm. The governing bodies that set standards allow for some variation due to the manufacturing processes and effects of dyeing and the bonding agent used. That's why some brands claiming to be size 138 will have a slightly different diameter. But, the difference should be a small percentage of the stated number. If it reaches 50%, that thread is probably an inbetween size that was given the nearest label to make it easier to sell. I have some thread that is size 105. It is larger than my b92, but thinner than any b138. This particular thread was honestly labeled as 105. I chose to buy it for those projects that called for something a little beefier than #92, but easier to hide the knots than #138 You can see the conversions between thread sizes 33 through 554 on the Needle and Thread Chart on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website. It includes addition measurements for Government sizes and weight per pound and breaking strength. * Tex.- Tex can be defined as the weight present in 1000 meter of yarn in grams where length of yarn is fixed. It means that, for example, if there is a 1000 meter of yarn and have a weight of 20gm then the yarn count will be 20tex. Because tex refers the weight in gram of unit length. ** Tkt - A ticket number in one type of thread will not be the same as in another. For example, Ticket 20 Cotton is not the same as Ticket 20 Corespun, or bonded nylon, or bonded polyester. Ticket numbers resemble the fixed weight system. The higher the ticket number, finer the thread and the lower the ticket number, the thicker the thread.

Just ask the seller if they can show you that it sews These are solid machines. It would be wonderful if he could give you some pointers to get you going. Ask if he has some thread and needles for it and some extra bobbins and some oil. This is the machine you were after! If you turn the hand wheel, always turn it towards you from the top, in a counterclockwise direction. Doing so while holding onto the top and bottom thread should result in the top thread picking up the bobbin thread and overlapping it. If there is material under the feet, a stitch should be formed. If it can be plugged in, ask to see it in action. If it has a servo motor you won't have as long of a learning curve to control the speed. A complete machine and table will have an unwarped table mounted on a steel K-Legs frame. There will be a motor hanging down and a rod connecting the control arm to a foot pedal. There will be another smaller pedal that lifts the feet, which releases the top thread tension. There should be a drawer with accessories. On top there should be a bobbin winder, unless there is one built into the machine head. Also, there should be a thread stand with platforms for 2 or 4 spools of thread and some kind of flexible work light. There should be a switch box under the right front end of the table to turn the motor on and off. It'll probably have pushbuttons, or a rocker switch. Make sure the power and motor all work. Good luck in advance!

I think the P-1206RB will work for you. I have a room full of sewing machines, but only 2 have safety clutches. I do get thread jams from time to time and stop as soon as I sense that something sounds or feels wrong. I cut the threads from the project, then fish the top thread out of the shuttle. Then I resume and am more careful about holding the top thread AND bottom thread back. BUT, sometimes that's not possible. If I can't hold back the bottom thread, I at least push it back so it is out of the way of the needle on the first few stitches. Holding back the starting threads AND not crossing over a loose bottom thread goes a long way to avoiding a thread jam. If you can't afford a new walking foot machine, look for a good used machine in local ads. If there is an upholstery shop nearby, ask them if they have a used walking foot machine for sale. I did that during the Covid shutdown, when my machines were locked up in a building that hosted our shop. But, I had customers wanting things sewn despite the stay home order. Rather than try to get together with the owner's husband multiple times, I asked a boat upholstery shop about used machines and he just happened to have a used, but not abused Singer 211G156, which has reverse. I took it home to sew at home for customers who still needed work done. It later ended up in the shop and routinely sews thick leather jackets and chaps that need zippers, or things needing hemming, where reverse is handy to lock in the stitches without spinning the work around 180 degrees ("Poor Man's Reverse"). I paid $800 cash for it, with its clutch motor. Later, I upgraded to a servo motor and am perfectly happy with it. I use #69, 92 or 138 thread, top and bottom, according the the thickness and forces trying to pull the layers apart. That $800 used machine was probably worth $2000 or more when new.

12 years ago, I was using black, #138, bonded nylon thread from Weaver Leather that came off the spool like a coil spring. It was so coily that it got wrapped around itself on the guide posts and even the eye of the needle! However, years before that, I had a similar problem with CanSew black bonded thread and that prompted me to ask the sales agent why this was happening on only their black thread. She told me it was because the black thread was double-dyed with a dark blue dip followed by a black dip. When we asked the guru at Weaver he told us that their black thread was double-dyed. This is why black bonded thread is firmer and springier than most other colors. This is for both nylon and polyester. Black polyester would be a little softer than black nylon, but stiffer than any lighter colors.

I just did a price check on the Consew 206RB-5, complete, with a motor and table, delivered to a residential address with a lift gate. They all revolved around the $2000 to $2400 range. The prices under $2000 were either for the head only, or for delivery to a commercial address with a loading dock. The prices for the head only ranged from $1499, plus tax, to $1999, plus tax. Some of the sellers are unlikely to offer any after the sale support. Personally, when I bought my first couple of sewing machines, I called the dealers multiple times with questions. One dealer who sold me a well used head only, refused to give free support and that was back in the mid to late 1980s. OTOH, when I bought a new machine, my calls were welcomed and gladly answered with all the answers to get me going again. This is something to bear in mind if one is buying their first industrial sewing machine and trying to shave dollars off the total price. You can shave yourself into the jackpot if you buy too cheaply. Or, you'll be begging for help from unpaid volunteers on here, or other forums, or groups. Another thing to consider is that customers in Canada have a different trade agreement with Chinese made goods than we do in the USA. All Chinese imports are automatically hit with at least a 25% import tariff, in addition to any other duty , shipping, delivery, and State sales tax. Ebay and Amazon automatically add State sales tax to all purchases shipped to US addresses. I can't speak to the difference in purchasing power of a Canadian Dollar vs a US dollar. But, again, Canadian money paying for Chinese goods that aren't hit with the 25% import penalty are probably paying a better, or similar price, especially if the machine was already in stock and bought before any recent price increases, dollar declines, or duties.

If you already timed the hook and needle as good as possible, experiment with changes to the check spring. There are usually three adjustments: You can change the distance the spring travels down to its resting position. The longer the throw, the longer the thread stays taut. Normally, the bottom stop is set to bottom out just after the needle enters the material. Its purpose is to prevent loose thread from getting split by the tip of the needle. Try more or less throw. The spring itself is attached to a split shaft that can be rotated for more or less spring tension. There's a set screw that holds the shaft in the preset position. Loosen the screw a little and try more or less spring tension. There is a screw inside a curved slot that lest you move the entire assembly to left or right. Typically, turning it all the way counterclockwise tightens the lay of the stitches. Turning it full clockwise loosens the lay of the thread. Normal is centered in the slot. Experiment!

First of all, thank you for you service in the Fire Department. Second: Once you get the machines working smoothly and reliably, we can talk about thread and needles you'll need to repair turnout gear. I've already done a couple and learned the requirements. It will not be the type of thread that shipped with the machine. This is a whole 'nuther topic.

We who are already skilled leather sewers should feel an obligation to inform the newbies to sewing machines that the larger the size of the thread, the harder it is to hide the lockstitch knots. This is not intuitive to a non-sewer. Lets take a for-instance... Assume that the thickness of an assembled wallet that has a 2 ounce interior and a 5-6 ounce carved back is between 7 and 8 ounces. If you lace that wallet it will cover the edges and fill the holes to the degree of your lacing skill. You could get 90+% coverage if you're really good. Instead, to save time and keep the selling price down, you hand sew the wallet with two needles doing a running saddle stitch. Each needle sews both on top and on the bottom. The stitches will appear balanced no matter how thick the thread is. This is because it is just a over-under running stitch. There are no "kmot" to conceal. Now, when you take the same wallet to a lockstitch sewing machine, which means 99% of all industrial sewing machines capable of sewing a wallet, the top thread must go down and pick up the bottom (bobbin) thread and overlap it, then pull it up inside the layers. This overlap creates what appears to be knots inside the needle holes. If the thread is thin, it will fold much tighter than the thread used in hand stitching. The overlapping knots will only take a fraction of the depth. However, if the person making the wallet wants a bolder thread appearance, approaching that of a hand sewn wallet, he or she will run into the fact that the lockstitch knots will probably be visible on the top or bottom of the needle holes. If you were to consult a needle and thread chart, you would see that in order to get the same top appearance as a hand sewn (two needle) sewing job, you'd need #346, or 415, or even 554 thread. This thread is usually bonded nylon, or bonded polyester. This bonded thread doesn't bend as neatly as linen thread and the lockstitch knots will look horrible! You may be wondering why we don't just run linen hand sewing thread through the sewing machine so it looks closer to a hand sewn wallet. It's because, with few exceptions, modern lockstitch machines cannot properly handle linen thread, especially pre-waxed thread. You can experiment with every setting and you'll probably end up shredding the thread and getting wax flaking off through the needle's eye, thread guides, bobbin case and shuttle, and the tensioners.. Practically, a machine sewn wallet that is between 7 and 8 ounces total thickness will have to be done using no larger than #138 bonded nylon, or bonded polyester thread. The tensions and thread paths will have to be clean and carefully adjusted to hide the knots. This #138 thread is about 1/2 the diameter of 6 cord linen sewing thread. The "knots" may be as large as .04 inches, or .828mm. If you read the chart I linked to you'll see that #138 bonded thread has about 22 pounds breaking strength. Practically though, that number may be as low as 16 pounds due to the stress and friction encountered when sewing leather. Conclusion: If you want a bold thread appearance, hand sew with 5 or 6 cord waxed linen thread. If you want to save time, machine sew with #138 bonded thread. If time doesn't matter, lace the wallet. Calculate what your time is worth and charge accordingly. But, don't think you can compete against low wage sewers in poorer countries who perform the same operation dozens of times every day. They are faster than Damnit or they're replaced by somebody else who is faster.

I would get the next available size up in a piping foot set.

There are aftermarket reproductions of Singer decals. I've seen them and they look as good as the originals.

Does the balance wheel rotate true, or wobbly? If it wobbles the main shaft may be bent. You can try unscrewing the presser bar to see/hear if it makes a difference being out of the picture. If the binding disappears the bar may be bent, or binding in its top or bottom bushings. If the presser bar isn't the culprit, maybe the needle bar is. Mark its position fully raised (with a Magic Marker, or tape), then loosen its screws and try rotating the wheel. It too goes through a bearing. Perhaps it is slightly bent.

Make sure the needle is aligned with the rib on the left and scarf on the right. The needle should be inserted all the way up into the needle bar hole. The needle should be System 135x16 (leather), or 135x17 (cloth). It is remotely possible that you have the wrong needle system, thus it is too short to reach the hook. The proper system 135x17 needle length is 43.8mm, or 1.72 inches, from the top of the shank to the tip. Some leather points may be very slightly shorter than the round points.

If you are already dealing with support from the dealer, we shouldn't interfere. But, KGG's suggestion to remove the belts is valid. It may just be an overtightened belt, of which you have three. Or, the bearings could be bad on the motor and speed reducer. Has LMC asked you to remove the bobbin case securing bracket and the bobbin case, to check for thread fragments? There could be thread stubs causing binding. The fact that the new head is doing the same thing makes me suspect your belts/motor/speed reducer. Remove the belt from the machine and see if it turns freely and without the moaning sound.

If system 134-35 is correct for your machine (according to the specifications), and you have inserted the needle all the way up in its mounting hole, and the rib faces due left, and the scarf faces due right, and it is threaded properly and won't pick up the bobbin thread, the machine is either out of time, or the needle bar has been pushed up due to a hard impact and the needle is now too short. If it was pushed up, the needle bar can be lowered back to the specs so the eye of the needle is at the right height as the hook passes over it on the upstroke. If the needle bar is at the correct factory position, the hook may be retarded due to a thread jam. Clear out any loose thread, oil the hook, then retime according to the manual. The hook must intersect the needle in the scarf area, above the eye, on the upstroke when a loop has formed on the right side of the needle.

Yes, if it is in good sewing condition. The machine head looks good in the photos. If there is any way you can go to their location, ask for a demo of the machine sewing a stack of leather. It looks like you'll be getting lots of needles and accessories. I noticed that the rubber pads are missing from the foot pedals. That's a minus as your foot could slip and ruin a project if the pedal has oil dripping on it. It might be a good starter machine and may be a good investment. But, I would only offer $1400 to $1500, which is more than half the list price of that machine, as listed on the Artisan website. If you outgrow the short arm, you can probably sell it for what you paid for it and buy a Cowboy CB4500, like I have. It has a 16.5" arm and I know I wouldn't want to sew gun belts with bullet loops, or sew large holsters, or do saddle repairs on a 9 inch arm version.

You posted this question in a post from 2011 that had nothing at all to do with this model of machine. I split your question into a new topic. That's the proper way to ask an unrelated question. Or, you could have posted it under your previous topic about this 78-1.

You can check out HE&P for accessories for Juki 441 and clones sewing machines. The prices for the various parts are on the website. He makes very narrow feed dog/throat plate sets and narrow presser and alternating feet. I got my first narrow set from our member @RockyAussie. Contact him through the forum messaging system for his current pricing.

Add more foot pressure to hold down the leather to stop skipping stitches. You can rub out the foot tracks later. But, I would move up to a #25/200 needle first. I recommend a Schmetz S point needle. I watched your video and suggest that you tighten the two screws on the shuttle race all the way down, then back them off about 1/2 turn each. This will let the shuttle move outwards as the thick thread goes around the bobbin case. You don't want too much or too little clearance.

All sole stitchers tend to be temperamental to setup and operate. All of these models have a curved needle and awl and sew with the bottom side up..

I have found that the actual hook to needle timing changes when I sew in reverse on my walking foot machines. While this isn't bad enough to shred the thread, it does occasionally lead to skipped stitches in reverse. You need to really time these reversing machines perfectly, or else...

Very few sewing machines were made that could sew over 7/8 inch. There was a Campbell Hi-Lift, needle and awl machine, that could allegedly sew 1.25 inches. I never saw that machine though. I sewed on a standard Campbell Randall stitcher that was good up to a touch over 3/4 inch. I modified two Union Lockstitch machines to sew 7/8 inch. I once sewed a solid 1 inch thick holster on my Cowboy CB4500, but only after tricking it out. Pat Luberto used to make a Luberto Classic that he claimed could sew 1 inch of leather. He went out of business in the last decade. Finally, I've read about people who owned Landis #1 harness stitchers, that used a now obsolete, super long System 1000 needle, that would sew 1 inch thick stacks of saddle leather.

I have a Cowboy CB4500 with an aftermarket narrow feed dog and throat plate from Australia. Using these narrowed down parts allows the machine to handle lighter work that can be sewn with #92 bonded thread, using a #19 needle. I also have a set from another member here who makes very narrow feed dog/throat plate sets for use with #69 thread and a #18 needle. This truly extends an otherwise heavy duty only machine down to the territory normally only available in upholstery class machines. This is something to consider if you really plan to sew holsters. Those need to be sewn with very thick thread that is beyond the capacity of the upholstery class machines.

Maybe these manuals will help, if you don't already have a copy. Consew_204RB-1,_206RB-1,_208RB-1.pdf consew_204_206_208.pdf