Wizcrafts

Thanks for the plug! I wrote the article in 2019 and published it on my leatherworks website's blog. The article is here, titled Dumbing down a Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, or similar harness stitcher When I wrote the article there weren't any aftermarket narrow feed dogs. So, I recommended using the narrow slotted flat throat plate. This system worked very well every time I applied it. The loss of the bottom feed was not that big of a deal on the thin work I was doing on my big machine. Folks owning a 441 clone who don't have aftermarket narrow feed dog/throat plate sets can use my system to dumb down their harness stitchers to sew thin work with thin thread. I used the system to hem jeans on my machine.

I don't see the split stud on top where the top tension unit should attach. The ring is there that lifts it when the foot lifter is engaged. This is how the thread tension is released to remove the work. The only tensioner is on the front face. It is used to tension the bobbin winder and also for darning. You can use that tensioner to sew but will have to pull the thread out manually to remove the work. There is a chance that the stud was unscrewed and placed in the parts drawer. There's also a chance it got broken off and the base is still screwed into the head. Or, it has been removed and is missing. In my experience, the first part to break off a patcher is usually the front mounted darning tensioner.

Yes it is. There is a similar topic from 2016, here:

Caution! Use heat shrink or tight fit tubing if you must. DO NOT grind the teeth! You will need them down the road to pull some difficult work through. Ask me how I know.

You definitely should ask for more photos showing close-ups of the top, left front and rear side. Ask about any missing parts. I know it's a long drive. But, shipping a machine like this without proper boxing and strapping on a pallet could lead to utter destruction.

they are for the home machines 130/705 H LL 110/ 18 on the box. i can go up to the system 135 but haven't yet i saw they had some different shapes for the larger system and i will be doing that as i get the bugs worked out. I am shopping and researching on the thread exchange. You probably won't find the S point needles at TE, Wk or most other tailor supplies sellers. The needles I am referring to are Schmetz "Pfaff" System 134-35 in S points. Those are inline chisel points. That system is about 1/16" shorter than a System 135x16 walking foot needle. If you can adjust the needle bar height and accept 2mm shanks, they will fit your machine and give a nice submerged looking stitch line. I got some from Bob Kovar and they time well on my walking foot machines that don't have reverse.

What system are those needles? There just may be an S point available.

The Cobra Model 26 is an excellent medium-heavy duty walking foot machine that can handle a wide range of thread sizes from #46 up to #207. It can sew up to 7/16 inch, but may be stressed at that thickness in veg-tan leather. The Cowboy CB3200 is a heavier duty machine that handles sizes #138 through #346. It is a step up and sews up to 1/2 inch with less stress on the moving parts. The CB3500 and 4500 are very heavy duty machines capable of sewing 7/8 of an inch of dense leather with #138 through #415 thread. They will not be stressed out under that load. I have a CB4500. It is great for anything over 8 ounces out of the box. Sewing below 8 ounces really calls for thinner thread, like #92. You can dumb down a CB4500, or equivalent by readjusting the tensions and using a narrow slotted throat plate, or aftermarket narrow throat plate and feed dog set. It got a set from Australia that lets the machine sew thin or softer leather with #92 thread (using a #19 or 20 needle). The only problem is that there aren't any leather point needles for it under a #23. So, the holes are round and the needles tend to squeak in dense leather.

It looks good enough to me. As for the thread/needle combination, I usually use a #19 needle with T90 thread. You got good stitches and hidden knots with a #18. As for the appearance of the holes, they almost look like round holes to me. That could be caused if you used diamond/tri point needles instead of an S inline chisel, or LR slanted chisel needle. One trick I've learned when the holes are objectionable is to increase the top tension to pull the knots higher up so they are just visible, but below the top surface. In effect, you are filling in the holes from the top view. It's not ideal, but can be a useful solution to an issue like this.

I try to keep the bobbin tension to the least that provides a smooth pull out of the case. Then I adjust the top tension to balance the knots. If I have trouble getting the knots up, I move up one needle size. If the larger hole is objectionable, I do increase the top tension. On some machines you can crank the top tension way up. On standard walking foot machines this can really stress the take-up lever and crank shafts. It also causes the top thread to snap as it goes around the shuttle on vertical hook machines (aka: Singer 1121, Consew 225, Juki 563). You can also add silicon lube, or even sewing machine oil to an oil cup if your machine has one. You can buy aftermarket lube jars that fit on top and get screwed to a top guide post. The thread runs through the lube if there is any in the jar.

I think you are overestimating the capability of a patcher when you mention sewing holsters. I have owned 6 patchers and currently have two. One is a small bobbin short arm Singer 29k71. The other is a long arm large bobbin Adler 30-7. All patchers are top feed machines. They have teeth of the foot to claw the leather to form stitch length. The absolute maximum length of a pristine Singer patcher is 5 to the inch at about 5 to 6 ounces thickness. The thicker the leather, the shorter the stitches become. That assumes that the teeth are aggressive. Some feet have finer teeth that won't pull thick leather as well as the course tooth feet. You will have a trail of very visible tooth marks to rub out after you're done sewing! Next is the maximum thickness a 29k patcher can actually sew. A well adjusted patcher lifts 5/16 inch above the throat plate. If we allow about 1/16 inch minimum clearance for the foot to move forward for the next stitch, that only leaves a maximum of 1/4 inch (16 ounces) sewable thickness. The next concern is thread size. Let's assume you get a large bobbin patcher, not small. You want to use #138 thread, top and bottom. You should be able to wind about 8.5 yards onto a bobbin if you keep good tension on the thread and allow it to wind evenly across the inner face. I looked at my box of prewound large patcher bobbins and they hold 17 yards of #69 bonded nylon thread. That would only be about 8.5 yards of #138. The next matter has to do with the fact that there is no edge guide for a patch machine. You will have to fabricate one, or use your fingers and eyes to guide the sewing to keep a straight line. And forget about using a magnetic edge guide on the throat plate! It pulls up the shuttle and bobbin and interferes with the stitches. Sewing along the edge of a belt, or any long strap will be a challenge to stay straight and not wander out of line. Assuming you are okay with all of the above limitations, #138 thread has 22 pounds breaking strength. I would not trust a holster that was sewn with that size thread. In my shop we use #277 thread, top and bottom, for holsters. A Singer patcher cannot properly handle that size thread. The bobbin would only hold 4 yards at best. I recommend that you get a proper holster stitcher for thick work, using big needles and thick thread. Then add a long arm large bobbin patcher for fixing boot and shoe uppers, or sewing patches onto vests and jacket sleeves. Limit that machine to #92 bonded thread. FYI: I only use #69 thread in my small bobbin Singer patcher. I mostly use #69 thread in the large bobbin Adler, but sometimes #92, and once in a great while, #138. I always use the same size thread in the bobbin. If there are two sizes of thread in a lockstitch machine, the thinner thread sets the strength of the stitches. In that case, a large top stitch is only for appearance, not strength. I hope this helps.

If we accept that a Singer G bobbin is the standard for 1x, the small patcher bobbin would be about 1/4 x and the large bobbin would be about 1/2x. With #138 thread, the small bobbin might hold 4.25 yards and the large, twice that much (maybe 9 yds). This is based on my box of prewound T70 bobbins for my small bobbin patcher. They are 9.5 yards each of v69/T70. #138 is twice as thick.

No, because iPhone users don't normally have Google Search installed. I have an Android phone and Chrome browser on my computer and only use Google search to find stuff. I don't know what results would show in an iPhone or Mac computer search for that video. Also, YouTube is part of Google.

I do believe that if the portable Leather Worker machine is just a dressed up Sailrite straight stitch, the standard Sailrite feet are piping feet and should fit it.

So, it is now a 12 ounce belt. I would use #207 thread at that thickness. It will be easier to bury the knots. Or, if #277 is really needed for top appearance, I would use #277 on top but #207 on the bottom. I can still do the job.

@JLSleather I can make a double leather gun belt for you. PM me to discuss it.

All your post are belong to us!

I guess you don't use the Google search engine or you would have found these results on that very subject: Setup video for a Juki LU-563

I used to have a Juki LU-563 that had a bouncing stitch lever. The faster I sewed, the shorter the stitches became. I had to replace the spring that held it in position. Many years ago. Look at the inside of the lever and see if there is a spring that's maybe stretched out, or missing, or loose.

He has been flagged as a spammer and restricted from posting without mioderation. This could be a hacked/stolen account transformed into a spam account.

You can't have too many Cowboys! 1883, 1923, Yellowstone on!

Techsew, a division of Raphael Sewing is in your city. Techsew is a leather sewing machine brand. There are several cylinder arm models in their lineup. I have a Techsew 2700 cylinder arm walking foot machine that came with a table attachment. It is a good light to medium duty sewer. I have used #138 thread in it, but #69 and #92 works better.

That is not his website! CowboyOutlaw in not affiliated with Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, which is owned by Bob Kovar. They are a Cowboy dealer under the brand's US distributor. They are also a Consew and Juki dealer and sell refurbished Singer machines and other brands. CowboyOutlaw is affiliated with that other company. As for motors, Toledo Industrial currently sells the Consew CSM-550-1 servo motor. Previously, they sold the Family Sew FS-550s servos. I have 6 of those on my machines.

I use a variety of brands, some of which are listed below. Cowboy bonded thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines Superior bonded thread Amann Strong-Bond from Wawak.com QTC Hi-Spec thread Miscellaneous brands from The Thread Exchange An occasional spool of Weaver bonded thread With all of these brands, there are bound to be good spools and bad spools. A good spool is well bonded, but not coily like a spring. The bonded thread should stay together when you clip the end with a proper thread snipper (aka: Wiss). If you buy a brand that works well, stick with it as much as possible. If a brand keeps separating, move on.

Actually, a #18 (metric 110) needle is best for v69 (T70) bonded thread. I would only use a #19 needle if the machine struggles to pull up the knots with a #18 needle.