Wizcrafts

You answered your own question. Just buy a speed reducer. A 2:1 reducer doubles the punching power at the expense of the top speed. I get my motors and reducers here.

Make sure the needle is firmly seated all the way up in the clamp and that the rib is on the due left and scarf on the due right. Ensure that you have threaded the top correctly. The route is as follows: Feed up from the spool to a loop overhead, then to the top of the machine. I usually feed the thread through the center cutout in the top rack. Under the lube pot clamp then out thru the lube pot hole. Around the post on the right side of the top tension disks and into the right side of the disks. Out of the disks and through the eyelet on the top front side of the head. Up to the take-up lever. Make sure the spring on top of the take-up lever is functional and exerts force to pull the lever up, but lets the lever go down as the rack moves up on the take-up stroke. Out of the take-up lever and down the needle bar hole, using a patcher threading rod or thin wire that has a V cut, or split on the bottom to hold the thread. Through the paddle spring above the needle clamp and down to the needle. Thread the needle left to right. Test to make sure there is tension on the thread with the foot lift lever down. Ensure that the paddle spring exerts some friction on the thread in the snout. If the paddle spring is bent, weak, or broken, the loop will dissolve before pick-off time and it will skip stitches. If the hook timing is off, adjust it via the eccentric screw accessed through a hole in the right side of the base of the machine. There is a rod coming down that joins a rod feeding under the arm. You'll have to wrangle a wrench under the base to loosen the nut on the back of the adjustment screw to turn it. Turn either way to get the best timing that picks off the loop as the needle moves down, then jogs up, then moves down again. Once the timing is right, tighten down the locking nut.

Ask and ye shall receive! Go here for a needle and thread chart.

Sailrite sells piping foot sets for their machines. Since you are using vinyl, feet with teeth won't be a problem.

You can order the hook and bobbins, threading rod and other replacement parts for shoe patchers from Bob Kovar (Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines), and from @shoepatcher I uploaded three manuals for your patcher and similar models. 29K62.pdf Singer_29K.pdf Singer_29K58,_K60,_K62.pdf

The thickest thread you can run through the Rex 26-188 is probably #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin. You will need a #24 needle to do this. If the leather isn't too dense you might be able to run #207 in the bobbin also. This was discussed in a previous topic.

System 135x17 is a round point needle system. Here is an ebay supplier selling #19 round point needles in size 19 that will fit your machine.

The first thing I would recommend is moving UP to a #18 or 19 needle. Stick with round points for carpeting. I have a customer who makes custom car floor pads and brings them to me for the final sewing and edging. I use #69 bonded nylon with a #18 or 19 needle, depending on how tight the jute is woven on the back. I also run them through my Hobby Lock serger to finish the edges, again with #18 needles and #69 thread.

That's good to know! It causes me to wonder if Union Lockstitch awls and needles will work in a Puritan.

You could ask Techsew for clarification of those specs. They may have beefed up some parts and modified others.

Post a close-up, low resolution (for file size) photo showing how the thread is going around the top tension guide and disks. It may be getting caught on the post that keeps the disks in their position, or it might be outside the disks, or incorrectly threaded around the check spring. Make sure that the thread doesn't drop under the thread spool and jam there.

The top tension is always greater then the bobbin tension on a lockstitch machine. If you want less top tension, back off the bobbin spring until it requires a minimum pull. I do this when sewing soft things, like chaps, or hemming pants. Backing off the tensions results in a lighter lay of the thread on both sides. This is good for items that flex a lot. It's not good for holsters, sheaths or hard cases.

I have a small bottle of RTC resist and it works really well at blocking things like letters when I am antiquing or Hi-liting a project. With the RTC resist, the antique doesn't penetrate the coated areas. It also appears to resist a light application of alcohol dye, but only if I apply two or three coats of RTC and let them dry. If you have more questions, consider becoming a member of Leatherworker.net. This section (help Wanted) requires a moderator's approval of posts and replies. You also don't have access to our private messages or email system as a guest.

I use a program called FastStone Photo Resizer, which is available for Windows PCs. If you use a Samsung Smartphone it has a built in photo resizer function in the Gallery. It is one of the edit options. . Here is a website that lists various photo size reduction "apps:" https://www.androidauthority.com/best-photo-resizer-apps-android-1076507/ This website offers tips for photo resizing on an iPhone.

It friggin' sounds brand new! Congrats!

Interesting take on the subject! In my shop, on my "sewing" side (we have two rooms), I mostly sew patches onto bikers vests and jackets, install new zippers in jackets and chaps and repair purses and shoe/boot uppers. 80% of my sewing is between a couple ounces and maybe 4 - 5 ounces and is sewn with #69 or #92 thread, with an occasional chaps or jacket job requiring #138 thread. These jobs are sewn on a variety of walking foot machines, or one of my two patchers. The remaining 20% involves sewing holsters and sheathes and some gunbelts which are sewn on my Cowboy CB4500. If the work is between 8 and 10 ounces, I use #139 thread. from 11 to 15 ounces I use #207 and everything between 16 and 32 inch is usually #277 thread. Only the thickest projects, over 1/2 inch, get #346 thread in our shop.

I believe that the Tippmann Boss uses System 7x3 and 7x4 needles, which are the same ones used in the Cowboy heavy leather stitchers. The 7x3 are round point, for cloth and webbing. The 7x4, also known as System 794, have various leather points. The most commonly used leather point in these harness stitchers is the Schmetz S point. You can find the best match for a given size of thread and needle in this thread and needle chart.

Try our members @CowboyBob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, or @shoepatcher.

Maybe the timing is retarded due to slop in the gears. Does your 29 have an adjustment hole on the front of the base, where a screwdriver goes in to turn an eccentric screw that advances or retards the timing?

You may be able to improve the stitching (and get rid of skipping) over 1/4 inch by adding pressure to the feet, and/or increasing the travel of the check spring, and/or by moving up one needle size. Also, needle shape impacts the stitching at the outer limits. Try different points. I find that the diamond points give more clearance in the holes than slicing points. The last thing to do, if you expect to sew this thickness regularly, is to alter the timing. Since your machine is new, try the simpler adjustments first. You don't want to void any warranty by dinking with something they don't want users to dink with.

Our member @shoepatcher can probably help you. He rebuilds Claes, Adler and Singer patchers here in Michigan, USA.

It is unlikely that the lift while sewing can be increased without some custom modification. You might ask dealers who sell the machine. One of those is an advertiser here. Check and refresh the banners on top for mention of industrial sewing machines. Your mini walking foot machine has dual feed, with the outside presser foot and feed dog driven. Your needle and inside foot remain in place, but move up and down. From my experience with various types of walking foot machines, any change to the height of one of the feet affects the lift of the other. They alternate up and down. I know that I can increase to maximum lift of the feet on my triple feed machines by about 1/16 inch. But, with the feet mechanically lifted all the way, the needle bar hits the inside foot. So, when I did that I had to be careful not to use the hand lift lever to hold the feet up and then rotate the balance wheel too far. There is that tradeoff. I simply don't know if your driven presser and alternating foot can be lifted higher without hitting the needle bar when it moves down. You don't want to damage the machine for a small increase in sewing thickness.

You can avoid all these hassles by simply finding the closest length between the pulleys and ordering a Type 3L v-belt from an industrial sewing machine dealer. Your motor should allow for plus or minus 1/2 inch of adjustment. The reason your measurement showed 1/2 inch is because these are V shaped belts, with a cut off on the small side. The top may well be 1/2 inch, but the inside taper will fit the 3/8 inch inside the tapered pulley groove.

Hmm. We’re having trouble finding that site. We can’t connect to the server at www.estcarpet.com. I recommend getting a Consew 206rb-5 which sews up to 3/8 inch. It has a larger M size bobbin and easily handles #138 thread. The bobbins are horizontal axis, inside the left end, instead of dropping in vertically from the top on the right.

The following suggestion was sent in by a guest who cannot post here. It looks like they painted the purse not shoe polish. Shoe polish would have come off with the saphir stuff you used.