Wizcrafts

If you do make this style for a Cowboy 4500 and Cobra Class 4, please let me know.

I am starting to toss the idea of making a round reins attachment for my cb4500. I sometimes replace purse straps and leashes and some are round. I do some on my long arm Singer walking foot machine, using a 1/2 or 5/8 inch piping foot set. But, the seam is always lying flat when I sew it. With a proper piping attachment, the round part would be half way up and down as would the seam.

Too bad you don't have access to a Campbell-Randall Lockstitch machine. They have round reins plate/foot attachments in different widths. I think there might also be attachments for a Union Lockstitch machine. I might have had a set of them with my first ULS, in the early to mid 1990s. The foot resembles a piping foot. The throat plate was raised on the right and had a channel on the left for the round portion. This is from my old memories. I'm trying to visualize a modern day setup you can fabricate on a Cowboy or Cobra harness stitcher. It would begin with the raised holster plate and the paddle or inline rear foot. The holster plate might need to be trimmed on the left edge. You'd need to create a side jig on the left of the holster plate that holds the round strap in position with just enough side clearance for the feet and needle to pull it along. This jig might slide over the arm, or stand up from the left end of the pedestal. This is all I've got until the coffee sets in and takes affect.

If you can't sew these seams with a paddle or inline foot, find a shoe repair shop and pay them to sew it on a curved needle sole stitcher. It does need about 1/4 inch of space from the raised sides, just like a shoe might have.

You're assumption was correct. Some gear has slipped on the top shaft. You are going to have to find that gear and tighten it back down. I would leave it loose until the needle is close to the correct position relative to the hook and feed dog. Then tighten it down and time the hook as required.

Thank you very much for linking to my blog article! I know it has helped a lot of people with 441 clones. I also use the narrow feed dog and throat plate made by RockyAussie. It does it all so far. I do have another custom feed dog and plate that I need to install and try out. It is more limited though and is strictly for smaller needles.

This is a small bobbin patcher. It uses the exact same shuttle and bobbins as the 29k71 and all models except for the large bobbin models (29k72, 29k172). In reality, you can buy bobbins and shuttles for the 29-4 and they should fit this machine. All over eBay. Or, call Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, for bobbins, shuttles, needles and other parts. He is an advertiser here, on top of each page. The needles are system 29x3 round point and 29x4 leather point. They are equivalent to system 135x16 and 135x17 walking foot needles. They are also known as system 332. Sold almost everywhere industrial needles are sold.

@kgg Since you are missing the paddle spring, you may also need the two tiny screws that hold it on. You can get them with the spring from @shoepatcher, or from any long time industrial sewing machine dealer near you. If the old screws are still in the needle bar, leave them in place until you get the new spring. Carefully unscrew them and set them apart from each other so you can screw them back into the same holes they came out of. This is because the head of one or both may have been filed down to clear the round housing as it revolves around the needle bar. If you install them in opposite holes the head of the screw or screws may gouge the housing. If you have to install new screws, tighten them all the way and carefully file across the outer edges of the screws to taper them into the curve of the needle bar.

Many patcher owners are unaware of the importance of the little paddle shaped spring inside the needle bar. Oftentimes, when someone has tried all of the usual troubleshooting techniques for a patcher that skips stitches, they don't mention examining this spring. The paddle spring has one job: it holds onto the top thread above the needle as the needle bar makes its down - up - down jog when the loop forms on the right side of the needle's eye. If the spring is firm and there isn't any thread fluff between it and the thread channel, it presses against the thread so the spring on top of the take-up arm doesn't pull it up and dissolve the loop. If the spring is bent, weak, or missing, it is almost impossible to get reliable stitches.

I'd first tighten the 3 screws on the round plate. If that makes no difference, or they're already tight, remove them and see if there is another screw under the cover to lock down the adjuster screw.

Does it look like the machine on this page? If so, our European members may be able to help you. If you get more replies I urge you to join Leatherworker.net so I can move your topic to our Leather Sewing Machines forum. As a guest you have to wait for approval before any comments or posts become visible here (in Help Wanted). As a member you can interact without waiting for a moderator's approval for each comment.

Absolutely! Look at the lower tension disks. There is a spring wrapped around the inside of the bottom roller disk. It has a loop that sticks out to the right and a stopper bracket under it. The stopper bracket has a screw securing it to the faceplate. If you loosen the screw you can move the bracket up or down to control the travel of the check spring. The spring that coils around the bottom roller disk is tensioned by rotating it one way or the other. It is locked down by a nut on the back of the housing it mounts to. Loosen the nut and turn the shaft with a screwdriver blade until you get the desired amount of spring tension to properly control the slack in the top thread as the take-up lever moves down from TDC. It should be preset for #277 thread by the dealer who set it up. That setting is also valid from #207/T210, but may be a little too strong for #138 thread and maybe a little weak for #346 thread. It is definitely too strong if you try to sew with #92 thread and needs backed off.

Oftentimes, when the top thread is snapping going around the shuttle it's because the timing is retarded. Or, it can be from excessive thread tension and too long of a throw on the check spring. A shorter throw gives some slack on top that may let the thread go around the shuttle without snapping.

The throw and tension of the check spring also affects the quality of the loop. A longer throw and tighter action can overcome the tendency of poorly bonded thread to unravel. Furthermore, if the unraveling is due to excessive twistiness in the spool, wrapping in the opposite direction around the top post may offest the twist problem and keep the loop at the needle intact.

There are a lot of bottom feed sewing machines that will let you sew applicates onto garments. Top names in the industry include Juki and Consew, with Juki being more expensive. The video shows a straight stitch machine, with bottom feed only. A Juki DDL 8700 will do this job.

I split this post into its own topic. It is not proper etiquette to inject a totally unrelated post into an existing topic. This is a garment sewing machine. The topic the OP injected it into is about heavy duty 441 clones that stitch harnesses and holsters, not garments. This is, afterall, a leather sewing machine forum. We may have consider a sub forum to discuss garment and vinyl (non-leather) sewing machines.

I believe Bob was simply describing the collar with an arrow.

The Singer 15-91 is a domestic/home sewing machine; not industrial. It is definitely not a leather sewing machine! That's what's causing the confusion in the answers. I have owned a couple of them. I rebuilt and sold them in my leather and sewing shop as a sideline. I even wrote a web page devoted to the Singer 15-91. Now, as for the motor, it is a pod motor built into the head. These motors are old now and the wires and brushes wear out over time. You can replace the brushes yourself if the motor sparks when it runs. But, rewiring it is probably not worth the trouble. You are better off trying to buy a rebuilt pod motor online. As it is, it may draw power when not is use. So, unplug it it until you intend to sew. Plug it into a power bar with a breaker, in case the old motor decides to short out. Beware, you could become part of the AC circuit! Because of the way the 15-91 (and model 201) was designed, it is not practical to try running it on an external motor. If it runs erratically, or not at all, get rid of it or buy a rebuilt motor. You'll have to unplug it and carefully detach the old wires, then attach the new ones.

Facts only answer As the video demonstrated, it allows the operator to precisely stop with the needle either fully up or fully down, no matter the speed you were sewing at. This means that whether you are sewing 1 stitch per second or 30, pressing down with your toe or heel in the designated manner will cause the machine to come to a dead halt with the needle up or down. This would be a useful combination for an operator who lacks good foot control (medical or injury causes). Editorialized answer I have the same type of machine in the video; a Cowboy cb4500. It has a 3:1 speed reducer and an analog servo motor with a simple rotary switch to limit the top speed. It ramps up smoothly from zero to the maximum speed as set by the knob. I can easily operate my machine at less than one stitch per second, then floor it on straightaways to sew at 10 or 15 stitches per second. As I approach corners, turns, or the end of the stitch line, I simply back off the speed pedal until I reach the end, then either reverse into the previous few stitches, or move the stitch length lever to the zero movement position and double tap it to lock in the threads. In my learned opinion, there is absolutely no need for a normal user, with good foot muscle control, on this type of machine (Juki 441 clone), to install a needle positioner and more expensive digital servo motor if it has a 3:1 reducer between the motor and machine.

About a decade ago this was a major problem when the main leather machine companies began shipping digital servos. They started up at between 100 and 200 rpm with nothing between zero and starting speed. Leather Machine Company came up with a clever hack that let the motor start up controllably. It was a piece of clear plastic that was printed with a variable density that was placed between the light source and the photocell. One of those was connected to the speed control lever (I forget which). As the pedal was moved from the off position the density of the filter changed much more gradually than the original light beam shroud. It took a little manipulation to find the right spot to tape it down. Once that was done the motor would slowly speed up and was controllable down to under 1 stitch per second with a 1:3 speed reducer. I installed the filter on the servo motor that shipped with my cb4500 and left it in place for about 3 or 4 years. Then it began developing a dead spot and it had to go. So, I bought an analog servo motor, with a simple knob limiter. It is still on the machine after 6 years and lets me sew as slow as a 10th of 1 stitch per second. I have the same motor on a long arm walking foot machine. It has a 2" motor pulley, no reducer, and the balance wheel has a 5 inch diameter pulley. That machine sews as slow as 1/2 stitch per second if I keep my foot steady.

Hook timing on machines with reverse should be done with the stitch length position set to zero movement.

My 2700 stitch lever has a peg or stud in the end holding it together. I think yours did too when it was new. My wing lever moves over about 15 or 20 degrees.

This machine is a copy of a Consew 227R. I have one in my shop. I'll try to remember to look at the stitch lever when I get there. Any industrial sewing machine dealer who stocks parts will probably have what you need. My go to guy is Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. 866-362-7397

I don't intend to get into a debate about warranties and dealer services. I do want to point out that one of the purposes of this forum is to help people solve issues with industrial leather sewing machines. This is an excellent example of an unexpected part failure and how to replace that part. Had the OP purchased the machine used, with no warranty whatsoever, the same procedure would have to be followed to get the machine working again. The only difference is that the OP doesn't have to pay (full price) for the part. This is a learning opportunity in case someone else has a 441 clone that has a broken shuttle driver.

TIlt the head back and oil all of the moving components associated with the return lever. Clean out any grime in between shafts and bearings.