Wizcrafts

The pulleys should be directly inline. Any angle may cause premature wear on the belt.

@Ripper70 Spun Kevlar and Nomex are not as strong as their bonded nylon/polyester counterparts. In the lighter weights, the differences are not important because both threads are strong enough for seams and patches. In the heavier weights, strength often matters and Kevlar is usually the better choice. However, Kevlar thread is abrasive and will eventually wear grooves into posts, guides, tension disks and springs, the hook and the take-up lever. Any sewing machine used a lot with Kevlar thread will need to be rebuilt, or replaced more frequently that machines using standard industrial thread. I haven't noticed any ill effects from running Nomex thread in my machines, repairing turnout suits, or those belonging to a friend's blackout window blind sewing operation which I was commissioned to set up.

I'm your Huckleberry! Firefighting gear has to withstand temperatures that will melt bonded nylon or polyester thread. A simple lighter on the thread test confirms this. I sometimes use lighters to melt the ending thread stubs to lock them down. You cannot sew turnout gear with nylon or polyester thread that will melt in the heat of a firefight. In response to the need, Dupont developed a meta-aramid fiber that can be spun into sewing thread that is called Nomex. This thread has a very high heat (~ 675 degrees F) and flame resistance (it chars, but doesn't melt in flames). However, this heat and flame resistance comes at a price. That price fluctuates from time to time, but ranges between $100 and $200 a pound (for new stock). During the California fire season, the price per pound may go through the roof. In the off-season, it may drop. Different areas of a turnout suit require different thread sizes to keep the pieces together, oftentimes under tremendous strain. Less stressed decorative areas can be sewn with Tex 27 or 40. More stressed seams may require Tex 60 or Tex 80. Really thick seams may need Tex 90, 105, or thicker Nomex thread. I have used all these sizes on a turnout suit, using the thinner thread on reflective tape that came loose and heavier thread on suede cuffs on the bottom of the legs. One of my primary sewing suppliers, Wawak, carries Nomex thread in Tex 40, in black and natural, in 6000 yard spools.

No matter what parts you swap out, you will not be able to get a 4 motion feed dog on this binder machine. The feed dog only moves forward and backward on this machine, which was designed to sew bias tape binding onto the edges. That means that the feed dog may actually fight the feed as it slides forward directly against the bottom of the leather. If you plan to apply edge binding, this is a great machine. Otherwise, if you want it for normal sewing operations, you'll need a 4 motion feed dog, aka: a drop feed machine.

I found some on Amazon, in packs of 10 needles, here. You have to choose the size in the options list. They have them up to size 16.

The Pfaff 335 was made in a few sub-versions, ending with the letter H and a number. H4 is the heaviest duty version that can actually handle a #24 needle and 207 thread. But, you might need to drill out the hole in the inside foot, throat plate and feed dog. Depending on the H version, you might be able to use #92 thread and a #19 needle in it. But, if it lacks the standard four motion feed dog drive, and you have to purchase Pfaff parts to get it to feed on the bottom, you'll be spending almost as much as you would on a good used Consew 227 type walking foot cylinder arm machine. I wouldn't recommend investing in that machine if it is one of the light duty versions made strictly for synchronized binding.

You have two options for obtaining discontinued Singer parts. Buy a donor machine head of the same make and model that is complete, turns freely, and is affordable. Contact dealers who have been in business for at least 40 years, or longer and ask if they have any OEM parts that you need. They may have some unsold replacement parts, or remove them from a donor machine. One of our supporting advertisers is a long time dealer who has a lot of old Singer parts.

Make sure you stock up on needles in sizes 18, 19 and 20 for use with thread sizes 69 and 92. The #20 won't get as much use, but may come in handy if the leather is really tough, or is deflecting the needle.

The only time you would insert the bobbin so it feeds clockwise is if there is an anti-backlash spring under the bobbin. These are usually shaped like a star. The tension is reduced on a clockwise feeding bobbin, in a top loading basket. I personally feed all my bobbins against the direction of rotation because the back pressure keeps the thread firmly under the tension spring.

Yes. Both machines use standard walking foot needle systems 135x16 and 135x17.

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines is a full fledged sewing machine dealership. They sell and service industrial sewing machines and have parts and accessories for sale. They don't sell online though. You have to call, email, or fill out the contact form to get part numbers and prices. This is how business was done in the needle trade before the Internet. Their toll free number is: 866-362-7397

Take a look at how the tread comes off the spool. If it is twisty, like a coil spring, you'll need to thread it in the reverse direction through two holes in the top thread guide post. I usually start at the top hole, wrap it counterclockwise and feed it out the bottom hole. this counteracts any twist and gives back pressure to keep the thread inside the top tension disks.

Are you holding back the starting 3 stitches?

I looked at a package of these big eye 135x17 needles and they are Schmetz SERV7. I bought them in sizes 18 and 19. The largest I found listed is only a #22, which is good for #138 bonded thread. I sew through leather tape with them and they don't clog or rat the thread like a standard 135x17.

I use all three brands. I have multiple sewing machines that all use System 135x16 and 135x17 needles. One of my main suppliers is @CowboyBobKovar, owner of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. He sold me some Schmetz S point needles in System 134-35 that lay down an inline stitchline. I like them. They are ever so slightly shorter than the standard walking foot needles, but still work for me. If at all possible, try to buy titanium coated needles. The ones I have are from Organ and Gross Beckert. These needles go through leather tape and glue with fewer clogging issues. Interestingly, when it comes to round points, I have some Schmetz that have a special geometry in the eye that resists clogging even though it is just plain steel. I use them to sew embroidered patches onto Bikers' vests. Why? On account of leather point needles slice the thread along the edges, where the round pints just separate the threads and don't rat the edges. You can buy individual packs of System 135x16 and 135x17 on eBay.

The hook, shuttle, take-up system and tensioners are not built to properly tension #277 thread. It will get dragged down into the hook and jam the machine. That's the official stance. Now, you might try running a soft #277 on top, but no more than a soft 207 in the bobbin, using a #25 diamond point needle. You'll have to crank down the presser foot spring a lot to keep the leather from lifting as the needle ascends. Set the stitch length to about 6 to the inch. Increase the top tension and reduce the bobbin tension.Sew into 1/4 inch of leather that has been oiled to soften it and see if you can balance the top and bottom threads. Hold back the starting threads, hand crank the machine and see what happens! Let us know.

That is a very cryptic post! I'm trying to decipher the questions. The first question appears to be how can I convert my Juki LU-1508 top loader into a side loader like the Juki DNU-1541? (I filled in the missing prefixes) No, you can't do that. If you want a side loading machine, trade in your 1508 top loader for a 1541 side loader. It could be that there is an anti-backlash spring in the bobbin case, under the bobbin, that is pushing up too much, jamming the bobbin and adding way more tension than you actually set it to. If that isn't it, something else may interfering with the path the bobbin thread takes and is squeezing the thread. Or, the top thread may be getting jammed as it goes through the feed dog, gets picked off by the hook and wraps around the shuttle and bobbin. Remove the cover plate over the bobbin and watch the top thread as you slowly rotate the hand wheel with a piece of tough material, or leather under the feet. See if the top thread is loose, or tight as it goes around. If it snaps going around the bobbin case, the timing could be retarded. Advance the timing a bit and try again.

Kristina; As a guest you can only interact publicly with interested parties. You don''t have access to our private message or email system. On the other hand, if you were to become a member, you can use these systems to carry on business discussions privately.

Thread getting jammed in the hook is user error cured by holding back the starting thread. I would suggest holding back the starting threads for at least three stitches before letting go. Make sure that the top thread feeds through the hole or split in the inside foot and is pulled to the rear. . If the machine sewed perfectly at the previous location, everything that has gone wrong is simply new user - rookie mistakes we all made along the way. Place a drop of oil on inside the race where the shuttle revolves. In fact, put a few drops of sewing machine oil in every oil hole and on each moving part. Keep a cloth handy to wipe the drippings.

To reduce the walking height you have to move the lever coming out of the back so it is farther away from the shaft that moves the feet. I can't resolve the details in your photo, but that adjustment should be obvious. As you rotate the wheel, the arm will push and pull out the back and the shaft will oscillate to move the foot up and down. Loosen the screw, or nur, or wingnut and move the shaft away from the center line. You may be able to reduce the lift to 1/16 inch. But, there will still be some lift. A walking foot doesn't operate like a flat foot. What you described would be like a needle feed machine with a fixed presser foot and a needle that moves with the feed dog. It wouldn't have an inside foot like a walking foot machine has.

No, that's not what I meant. It looked to me like the front edge of the pedal is hard in contact with the floor. It needs to miss the floor in the off/idle position. Forget I ever mentioned it. It's an optical illusion. Set the angle where your ankle is comfortable. Just make sure it is adjusted so it lets the motor be completely off when the front is all the way down. If the leading edge actually hits the floor, the motor will be partially engaged when you want it off. That's what I was talking about. It should have the back end up so you don't stress your ankle.

The best needle and thread combination chart is on the Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines website.

Make sure that the floor pedal isn't bottoming out hard against the floor in the idle position. The two rods with the coupler are used to adjust the idle position. Set it so there is a little gap above the floor in the off position. I have the same motor on my Singer 211G156 walking foot machine, and on my Techsew 2700. I like the rotary switch to set the top speed.

I don't recommend using #207 on this type of machine. It will probably cause the Ranko Valve to defribulate and implode into a gazillion pieces. At the very least, it will jam the hook.

Post a photo showing the motor and floor pedal. Every motor I've seen on an industrial sewing table has a bolt adjustment for raising or lowering the motor in its mount. There are usually locking nuts over and under the bracket the bolt feeds through. Set the motor so there is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection of the v-belt when the machine is upright in its operating position. Do try turning the hand wheel before tightening the belt. If it's hard to turn without the belt, something has gotten jammed up inside the machine. It could simply be a thread birds nest from not pulling the top thread out of the needle and the needle went down from the machine being moved around. If this happened, you'll have to pull all the thread out of the shuttle around the bobbin case before you try powering on the machine again. This birds nesting is caused by not holding onto the starting threads, especially the top needle thread. Industrial machines are fairly easy to jam up if the top thread gets pulled down and into the shuttle in the wrong manner. When moving or even tilting the head, pull the top thread out of the needle so it can't get jammed into the shuttle and bobbin case.